Crossover help required

Hello all,
I recently built a pair of Mltl floorstanders courtesy of Paul Kittinger, who did any amazing job for me. I’ve been using a 2x4 minidsp to perform crossover and a little eq duty but would like to build a passive crossover. My crossover skills are close to zero and I would much appreciate it if some kind person could get me started with a recommended design.
The drivers in question are:
Seas L16RN-SL 6” woofer
HiVi DMB-A 2” mid
Dayton 16FA-6 5/8” tweeter
The baffle is 8” wide.

So far, I have been using it as a 2 way, crossed at 1000hz, LR4, which seems to give me the best results. Even though my hearing range tops out at 10,000hz, I would like to try it as a 3 way.
Many thanks, stay safe.
Peter
 

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Thanks for the quick response.
Pretty much. I can see if I can improve on minidsp eq and then report back with the settings. I have several small -ve peaks on the woofer, trying to reduce room effects and the mid dome level cut by 4.5db, With a little lift at 7000hz. Also a deep -ve at 700hz on the mid, Fs.
Woofer and mid, LR4 @1khz.
 
I don’t plan to use any eq when passive. Yes to the single stereo amp. Why I decided to try the passive approach is because, for the first time in my life(that’s a long time), I bridged my modest NAD 2155 amps using Some other speakers(passive Linn Kabers) and I was astounded at the improvement in dynamics, bass definition and overall musicality. I’m hoping there may be an improvement with these home-brewed speakers.
 
IMHO the combination of drivers is not that suitable candidate for a passive xover.
Why?
1st thing - the woofer is very inefficient, only 84 dB.
When you pad the rest down to match it, taking into account BSC (baffle step response) you end up with maybe 81 dB.
BSC starts at around 575 Hz and everything after that needs to be brought down for flat response.

That is some pathetic efficiency, you'll need a monster amp to drive it to a reasonable level.

To match everything you'll need a lot of components to create l-pads and probably zobels and maybe LCR traps for the domes.
And when you add the components to create a LR2 or LR4 that becomes a very complex filter with a lot of interaction electrically and acoustically.
Not a pretty picture in my book.

Don't want to discourage you but you might have a better outcome if the woofer is replaced with one more sensitive, maybe around 90 dB to start with.