I got a pair of Tandberg TL 1807.
tandberg — ImgBB
One of the two 8" drivers looks damaged (something sounds like scratching in the coil/magnet when I move the cone)
The boxes are 18L, sealed. I think of 2 options:
I would rather go for the first if I could find nice drivers for them. To keep their original style, possibly combine them with an extra woofer (tandberg manual says 70-20000kHz. As I understand, such designs where built for radio...)
Any comments? Driver suggestions?
Also, they are 4ohms. I would replace all drivers with 8ohms instead? or do I have a reason to stay with the 4ohms???
tandberg — ImgBB
One of the two 8" drivers looks damaged (something sounds like scratching in the coil/magnet when I move the cone)
The boxes are 18L, sealed. I think of 2 options:
- Replace all the drivers. It looks difficult to find 8" with low EBP. Any suggestions?
- Make them ported instead and replace the drivers.
I would rather go for the first if I could find nice drivers for them. To keep their original style, possibly combine them with an extra woofer (tandberg manual says 70-20000kHz. As I understand, such designs where built for radio...)
Any comments? Driver suggestions?
Also, they are 4ohms. I would replace all drivers with 8ohms instead? or do I have a reason to stay with the 4ohms???
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I probably have one of the best Internet archives about Tandberg of Oslo. Somewhere on a backup CD.
Just that I always admired that factory. AFAIK, they used Norwegian SEAS and UK Celestion drivers.
It was a long time ago. But post some pictures with the paperclip attachment thing. I'll help you out if I can. 🙂
Just that I always admired that factory. AFAIK, they used Norwegian SEAS and UK Celestion drivers.
It was a long time ago. But post some pictures with the paperclip attachment thing. I'll help you out if I can. 🙂
That sounds nice!
I had not heard of them before but I was in an bazaar recently and I found them for like 3 pounds so I gave it a go, because the boxes look nice after all and they match my living room 🙂
tandberg1 — ImgBB
tandberg2 — ImgBB
tandberg3 — ImgBB
I found the manual here.
Might the driver be repairable in some simple way? I have not yet tried them cause I lack an amp at the moment but I can feel by hand that something scratches...
Are there any modern 8" drivers for sealed boxes???
I had not heard of them before but I was in an bazaar recently and I found them for like 3 pounds so I gave it a go, because the boxes look nice after all and they match my living room 🙂
tandberg1 — ImgBB
tandberg2 — ImgBB
tandberg3 — ImgBB
I found the manual here.
Might the driver be repairable in some simple way? I have not yet tried them cause I lack an amp at the moment but I can feel by hand that something scratches...
Are there any modern 8" drivers for sealed boxes???
Another interesting fact is that the driver contour on the box is different than the mounted element. Regardless, they seem like the original ones and when I removed the front covers, I got the impression that no one has ever opened them before. Plus, the back of the driver is stamped with Tandberg, so I don't thing that the drivers have been changed before.
Thanks!!!
here they are again from different angles
tandberg4 — ImgBB
tandberg5 — ImgBB
Do you think I could find original replacements?
here they are again from different angles
tandberg4 — ImgBB
tandberg5 — ImgBB
Do you think I could find original replacements?
Well, the contour on the wood looks like it perfectly matches the blackcones! But the ones mounted are different... Though they carry the Tandberg stamp.
[EDIT] Wrong! I was looking at the pics of the 9TV-LG tweeters... the 21TV-G has a circular rim...
[EDIT] Wrong! I was looking at the pics of the 9TV-LG tweeters... the 21TV-G has a circular rim...
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Vi ma snakke i morn, min venn. 🙂
Nu ma jeg legge seg.
Probably got that wrong. My Norwegian is apparently skitt. 😀
Nu ma jeg legge seg.
Probably got that wrong. My Norwegian is apparently skitt. 😀
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Lol, my Norwegian is probably worst. I am actually Greek living in Sweden, but was until recently living in Norway. I've got to change my info 😛
I can have a go at Svensk! Jag ma taler Svensk, an all that. But I'm not fooling anybody.
Ew, I get into worse trouble in lovely Greece!
Kali Mera (Good Day) works well. Efcharisto (Thanks) too.
The US people have NO IDEA how complicated life is in the EU. 😀
Ew, I get into worse trouble in lovely Greece!
Kali Mera (Good Day) works well. Efcharisto (Thanks) too.
The US people have NO IDEA how complicated life is in the EU. 😀
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Good afternoon, hotbalde6.
Couldn't find the catalogue on disk.
Tandberg TL 1807 looks a simple 4 ohm 2 way with a cone tweeter. Presumably not much in the way of a filter? Just a capacitor to the tweeter?
Shouldn't be too hard to find a replacement woofer. I have a couple of 222mm Sony corrugated edge woofers that would fit. But that won't help you.
I wonder if a 92dB Mivoc WM-8 would fit?
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/147632-classic-monitor-designs-25.html#post4428857
Or a Visaton W200S-4?
W 200 S - 4 Ohm | Visaton
You might ask in a second-hand store too. They often have an old driver lying around.
Voicecoil rubbing can sometimes be fixed by turning a bass unit upside down too.
Couldn't find the catalogue on disk.
Tandberg TL 1807 looks a simple 4 ohm 2 way with a cone tweeter. Presumably not much in the way of a filter? Just a capacitor to the tweeter?
Shouldn't be too hard to find a replacement woofer. I have a couple of 222mm Sony corrugated edge woofers that would fit. But that won't help you.
I wonder if a 92dB Mivoc WM-8 would fit?
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/147632-classic-monitor-designs-25.html#post4428857
Or a Visaton W200S-4?
W 200 S - 4 Ohm | Visaton
You might ask in a second-hand store too. They often have an old driver lying around.
Voicecoil rubbing can sometimes be fixed by turning a bass unit upside down too.
Goodmorning!
First of all, thank you for the input and your time, much appreciated.
Yes, the EU, or better, Europe, is complicated. I can imagine how confusing the European map looks to the other side of the ocean. Until you take a closer look to find that this complexity deepens so much more beyond the current states, considering different ethnic groups, minorities, nomadic groups, all of which extend within and beyond state borders. Reminiscent of almost 3 millennia of written history, empires (predominantly multi-ethnic) and trade/wars between them. For example, I live in Sweden but I'm in the northern part. Here is also part of Sapmi (Lapland), which AFAIK extends over Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. Being close to the Finnish border, many of the villages around me have Finish names and their inhabitants are Swedish but speak Finnish. I also have Sami friends, they speak Swedish and the Sami language, which resembles Finnish but it's not! On the contrary, the city of Vaasa is in Finland but something like half of the population speaks and probably considers themselves Swedish. Not to mention that Swedish is also an official language in Finland (taught in schools) and that the 2 languages have absolutely nothing in common! And all this mess is only for that small and far-away part of Europe, a place that I would consider almost lifeless if I didn't know better. Go figure. I wouldn't even start with my regions down south, fragments of antiquity, Hellinistic, (Holy) Roman, Ottman, Venetian, British, Soviet history... a pretty colorful result. But, that's the beauty of it all!
Now, to the speakers. I don't have the knowledge and experience needed to really understand how you pick up a driver. My little understanding tells me that you should aim for low EBP for sealed boxes and vice versa. So, my brute-force attempt was to fetch loads of 8" drivers with EBP<60 from loudspeakerdatabase.com and try them in WinISD.
Then again, I am not sure how exactly should one judge a good from a bad design... Once again, the little I understand is that I should look for a nice flat response and gppd SPL. (I didn't bother much with how low can the -3db reach since I might add a separate woofer in the future given the time/money. All of the drivers modeled had a -3 somewhere between 50 and 70 Hz which more or less aligns with the original datasheet frequency range, 70-20000Hz.)
With those parameters in mind, out of all the designs I tried, the Visaton W200S-4 displayed the best result (see figs)! So my question is, how did you come up with that option? I guess the answer includes long experience but if you could roughly tell me the way of thinking, the characteristics that you looked for to come up with this driver, I would be very thankful.
tandberg-spl — ImgBB
tandberg-imp — ImgBB
tandberg-manual — ImgBB
First of all, thank you for the input and your time, much appreciated.
Yes, the EU, or better, Europe, is complicated. I can imagine how confusing the European map looks to the other side of the ocean. Until you take a closer look to find that this complexity deepens so much more beyond the current states, considering different ethnic groups, minorities, nomadic groups, all of which extend within and beyond state borders. Reminiscent of almost 3 millennia of written history, empires (predominantly multi-ethnic) and trade/wars between them. For example, I live in Sweden but I'm in the northern part. Here is also part of Sapmi (Lapland), which AFAIK extends over Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. Being close to the Finnish border, many of the villages around me have Finish names and their inhabitants are Swedish but speak Finnish. I also have Sami friends, they speak Swedish and the Sami language, which resembles Finnish but it's not! On the contrary, the city of Vaasa is in Finland but something like half of the population speaks and probably considers themselves Swedish. Not to mention that Swedish is also an official language in Finland (taught in schools) and that the 2 languages have absolutely nothing in common! And all this mess is only for that small and far-away part of Europe, a place that I would consider almost lifeless if I didn't know better. Go figure. I wouldn't even start with my regions down south, fragments of antiquity, Hellinistic, (Holy) Roman, Ottman, Venetian, British, Soviet history... a pretty colorful result. But, that's the beauty of it all!
Now, to the speakers. I don't have the knowledge and experience needed to really understand how you pick up a driver. My little understanding tells me that you should aim for low EBP for sealed boxes and vice versa. So, my brute-force attempt was to fetch loads of 8" drivers with EBP<60 from loudspeakerdatabase.com and try them in WinISD.
Then again, I am not sure how exactly should one judge a good from a bad design... Once again, the little I understand is that I should look for a nice flat response and gppd SPL. (I didn't bother much with how low can the -3db reach since I might add a separate woofer in the future given the time/money. All of the drivers modeled had a -3 somewhere between 50 and 70 Hz which more or less aligns with the original datasheet frequency range, 70-20000Hz.)
With those parameters in mind, out of all the designs I tried, the Visaton W200S-4 displayed the best result (see figs)! So my question is, how did you come up with that option? I guess the answer includes long experience but if you could roughly tell me the way of thinking, the characteristics that you looked for to come up with this driver, I would be very thankful.
tandberg-spl — ImgBB
tandberg-imp — ImgBB
tandberg-manual — ImgBB
Quite a few people here got interested in the WLM La Scala speaker.
That used cheapish Visaton W200S-4 and TW70 drivers but went for 2000 Euros and more::
This was an early lashup I did for testing, using the W200S-8 as it goes:
Visaton W200S + TW70
It needs a bit more crossover than the Tandberg, but that sounds better too.
You start these projects by measuring the holes to see what will fit. 18L of reflex ought to be fine. I'd keep the Tandberg tweeters.
But measure their DC resistance.
This was as good as anything I did. The red resistor is adjust to taste and tweeter for loudness:
That used cheapish Visaton W200S-4 and TW70 drivers but went for 2000 Euros and more::
This was an early lashup I did for testing, using the W200S-8 as it goes:
Visaton W200S + TW70
It needs a bit more crossover than the Tandberg, but that sounds better too.
You start these projects by measuring the holes to see what will fit. 18L of reflex ought to be fine. I'd keep the Tandberg tweeters.
But measure their DC resistance.
This was as good as anything I did. The red resistor is adjust to taste and tweeter for loudness:
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Ok, so, your suggestion for the Visatons was for a bass-reflex design? So I would need to open ports on them!
I will give it a try on WinISD and see when I return, now I will have to leave!
Thanks again!
I will give it a try on WinISD and see when I return, now I will have to leave!
Thanks again!
You can try closed box! If it doesn't work, cut a tube! Closed box was OK too for me. Just less bass.
Whole thing might be easier in Boxsim. It was one of the appeals of the project:
Software | Visaton
Whole thing might be easier in Boxsim. It was one of the appeals of the project:
Software | Visaton
Well, the Visaton driver would fit very nicely acc. to WinISD at least. But the driver won't fit... Pretty sad. The max outer diameter is 210mm, visaton is on 232 😛... Back to the start.
Does anyone have a suggestion for a 2-way 18L box???
Does anyone have a suggestion for a 2-way 18L box???
hotblade6, you are dealing with professionals here!
210mm is laughably easy: Monacor SPH-210 Diameter 210mm
210mm is laughably easy: Monacor SPH-210 Diameter 210mm
Here is how they look in winISD, the Monacor in sealed and vented box (blue) and the Visaton in green for comparison.
monacor-visaton — ImgBB
But the Monacor is 8 ohns and I don't see a 4 ohm equivalent (or am I missing something)...
So in that case the tweeter should also change to match the resistance, right? (and I'd rather not change them as well 😛)
monacor-visaton — ImgBB
But the Monacor is 8 ohns and I don't see a 4 ohm equivalent (or am I missing something)...
So in that case the tweeter should also change to match the resistance, right? (and I'd rather not change them as well 😛)
BTW, Im happy you put on a mask. Sensible in these corona times when hanging out in crowded forums like this one 😛 😛
What about the Monacor SP-202E ?
It's 4 ohms, the frame fits and its characterized as a "replacement speaker for closed systems.
It would be nice if it was a bit larger but I think I can mount it.
https://www.monacor.com/media/FLE/K192-EN@C233.pdf
Does it look good???
It's 4 ohms, the frame fits and its characterized as a "replacement speaker for closed systems.
It would be nice if it was a bit larger but I think I can mount it.
https://www.monacor.com/media/FLE/K192-EN@C233.pdf
Does it look good???