Hi all, could you please advise if you have any idea how can I can make heat sinks on my ML amplifier black again? The are turning purple, I presume due to heat and age.
I was thinking about Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black, but I'm not sure if it will work on already anodised surface. I don't want to strip it apart.
Thanks
I was thinking about Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black, but I'm not sure if it will work on already anodised surface. I don't want to strip it apart.
Thanks
Do NOT slap black paint over it ,yes you can buy "anodized paint " but that is a misnomer anodization is an electrical process .
The original coating is extremely thin and as your choice points out its aluminium paint (aluminum ) paint -IE- its made to be applied to bare aluminium not an anodized surface.
The original coating is extremely thin and as your choice points out its aluminium paint (aluminum ) paint -IE- its made to be applied to bare aluminium not an anodized surface.
Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black is clear chemical based on some strong acids which turn clean aluminium black, it is used on firearms to fix some imperfections or blacken them. There are some tutorials on YouTube, but none of them show if it can be applied on already anodised surface. The finish after application is as thin and as strong as anodising.
Black dyes and inks are often a mix of purple and green etc, so I guess here the green's fading. I think I've seen this (purple heatsinks), not realizing they were once black!
Find a small black anodized scrap heatsink to try out as a tester to check the finish - a natural match would be black radiator paint which is designed to withstand high temperature, but getting a good finish may be challenging - a tip from the professionals is to use thinners to give light coats - you need more coats but the finish can be smoother.
I wouldn't use just any random paint, it will likely stink and give off solvent vapour everytime it heats up - radiator paint is designed for to reduce this - but expect some solvent odour for a while initially.
Find a small black anodized scrap heatsink to try out as a tester to check the finish - a natural match would be black radiator paint which is designed to withstand high temperature, but getting a good finish may be challenging - a tip from the professionals is to use thinners to give light coats - you need more coats but the finish can be smoother.
I wouldn't use just any random paint, it will likely stink and give off solvent vapour everytime it heats up - radiator paint is designed for to reduce this - but expect some solvent odour for a while initially.
I would like to keep the look as close to original as possible, hence I think any paint is too thick. I will order a bottle of this Birchwood potion and try it out on small area.
Live with it, hardly matters unless it is exposed or you are fussy.
Get it anodized again at a shop that does sections.
Otherwise, get it powder coated, unless it is a heat sink that is close to design limits, it will not have dissipation issues.
https://www.ehow.com/info_12228827_powder-coating-aluminum-hurt-heat-transfer.html
Get it anodized again at a shop that does sections.
Otherwise, get it powder coated, unless it is a heat sink that is close to design limits, it will not have dissipation issues.
https://www.ehow.com/info_12228827_powder-coating-aluminum-hurt-heat-transfer.html
Lots of anodizers will do a black that will go purple with time. Only a few deliver the quality that lasts, and they are more expensive...
Yes, but I'd like to restore ML DAC (no 30.6) which almost doesn't heat at all 🙂 So I'm not expecting any overheating issues.
Powder coating then, or heat resistant chimney paint, called stoving black in some parts of the world.
Will mot fade...
Will mot fade...