Kicker zx1500.1

This amp has me stumped. When I apply power and remote. Nothing happens. Also it appears to have 2 tl594 chips which is something I've never seen before.
 

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One 594 is for the rail supply. The other is for driver voltages.

What's the DC voltage on the 594 for the rails? Copy and paste and fill in the following:


Pin 1:
Pin 2:
Pin 3:
Pin 4:
Pin 5:
Pin 6:
Pin 7:
Pin 8:
Pin 9:
Pin 10:
Pin 11:
Pin 12:
Pin 13:
Pin 14:
Pin 15:
Pin 16:
 
Ok here's the voltages on U2
Pin 1: 1.111v
Pin 2: 3.5v
Pin 3: 0v
Pin 4: 204mv
Pin 5: 1.49v sawtooth wave
Pin 6 3.46v:
Pin 7 5.9mv:
Pin 8: 5.9mv
Pin 9: 5.9mv
Pin 10: 5.9mv
Pin 11 5.7mv:
Pin 12: 0v
Pin 13: 5.02v
Pin 14 5.02v:
Pin 15: 5.02v
Pin 16: 3.49v
 
Correction I meant D1-1N5231B It's on the remote line.

Perry is right Pins 13,14,15 would not have 5 volts without B+ on Pin 12. Recheck DC voltages on Q1,Q2 and D1 and then look at the voltage on U2 Pin 12. It's possible the collector(middle pin)of Q2 is low. High enough to power U2 and generate sawtooth and 5v regulator voltages, but too low to power the drive pins. Pins 8 and Pins 11 are the pull ups for Pins 9 and 10 and should have ~12 volts.




Ok here's the voltages on U2
Pin 1: 1.111v
Pin 2: 3.5v
Pin 3: 0v
Pin 4: 204mv
Pin 5: 1.49v sawtooth wave
Pin 6 3.46v:
Pin 7 5.9mv:
Pin 8: 5.9mv
Pin 9: 5.9mv
Pin 10: 5.9mv
Pin 11 5.7mv:
Pin 12: 0v
Pin 13: 5.02v
Pin 14 5.02v:
Pin 15: 5.02v
Pin 16: 3.49v
 
Removing d7 did nothing. I replaced Q1 and now the voltages on u2 are as follows

Pin 1: 1.111v
Pin 2: 3.5v
Pin 3: 4.79
Pin 4: 2mv
Pin 5: 1.49v sawtooth wave
Pin 6 7.3v:
Pin 7 0
Pin 8: 7.2v
Pin 9: 6.05v
Pin 10: 6.05v
Pin 11 6.5v:
Pin 12: 10.5v
Pin 13: 0v
Pin 14 9v
Pin 15: 0
Pin 16: 5.5v
 
U2-TL594 PWM chip appears to be working and you have drive from Pins 9 & 10.

I haven't worked on one of these amps for sometime now, and don't recall if the IRF3205's need to be in place for the amp to come out of protection and power up.

The power supply has four banks of three IRF3205 mosfets. Replace one in each bank. Q31,Q32,Q37 and Q38 will do.

Just one note, I noticed that Q13 is stuffed underneath the Class D driver card. The metal backing may be shorting to something underneath the card. This may not be the case but I recommend that you reposition Q13.
 
ok so I had the amp functional with one fet per bank in the output section. I put them all in unaware that one of the gate resistors was out of tolerance. When I applied power the amp made a strange sound and now when i power it up I have drive on the input of the ps fets but the 12v that's supposed to be on the middle pin isn't there after I fit the fets. If I remove them it comes back.