I'd like some advice.
I am building a new portable bluetooth speaker for my bicycle.
I currently have a 4.7" hammond abs box with 2 monacor sph 30-4 drivers in it. It's fed by an amp6 (tripath TA202) powered by a 4 cell 12.8v LiFePO4 batttery.
Pros of current system: reasonably loud (guessing around 90dB), weighs less than 2#, small form factor, >5hr battery life at high volume.
Cons of current system: stereo sound from 2 drivers sharing same enclosure aint right..but honestly doesn't sound bad to my ears), lacks bass below 150Hz, no bluetooth and I go through a lot of lightning to 3.5mm jacks .
Ways I'd like to improve it: add bluetooth, new amp, new power supply, new drivers, new enclosure....maybe dsp to shape response in less than idea enclosure.
GOALS of new bike speaker: small size, low weight (<5#), more dB, lower bass response, longer battery life.
Current ideas:
-Amp: tpa3116 with bluetooth like a Dayton Audio KAB-250v3. no dsp but other goals met. could add a miniDSP, but would need a buck converter. I could use Dayton Audio DSPB-250 for the dsp and add Sure Electronics AA-AB41136 Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver to get both bluetooth and dsp...but would like to power the amp with 22.2 volts...again necessitating a buck converter for the 12v bluetooth receiver. (extra space and weight)
-Battery: two Dayton Audio LBB-3 connected to a NTE R14-11D10-24 10A 24 VDC DPDT General Purpose Relay and 4 diodes to allow for playback AND charging without removing battery.
My current setup has amp, battery and speakers all in separate enclosures (works well for aerodynamics). I am not against using a similar 3 piece setup but also think it'd be nice to have all components in 1 enclosure to remove from bike and take it to the beach.
-Speaker Enclosure material: mdi and plywood are heavy. Considering using pvc or abs tube(s) or sheets. Tubes would be easier to work with (less edge glue failure potential).
-Speaker Enclosure : restricted by wanting small volume enclosure for mounting on bike. I want to get near 100dB and play from 80Hz - 20k Hz. I've read the boominator thread and understand getting below 80Hz outdoors in a smaller enclosure aint gonna happen. I also understand Hoffman's Iron Law...I'd just like to push that law as much as I can 🙂
Between handle bars above tire (preferred location). 13" x 8" max exterior size (10.7L total). Best idea I've had is using two 8"pvc pipes cut to 5.5" height (4.5L each before subtracting for driver basket(s), port(s), batteries, amp. I would seal off one end and mount speaker and pr both facing outward to allowed sealed ends to butt up against each other and have drivers firing towards sides of bike. side firing drivers allows me to crank up the volume without destroying my own hearing 🙂
Rear rack above tire (hate to add a rack and look like my grandpa doodling down the road). 17" x 11.5" x 6" max external size (19.2L total).
Enclosure type: Likely passive radiator as box likely too small for port...but love the low end extension I could get from a port. I DO NOT UNDERSTAND HOW 1ST PORT RESONANCE WOULD EFFECT A FULL RANGE DRIVER.
dayton ds90-pr seems to model well with most of the drivers I am looking at with a tuned volume of 1.25L for 82Hz fb.
_Speakers: must be efficient to preserve battery life and get near 100dB in enclosure. Would like a single full range driver per side to reduce weight and volume of enclosure. Would like to stay under 4 ohms for amp efficiency and subsequent battery life.
Potential candidates:
dayton nd91-4
dayton dma80-4
dayton tcp 115-4 (heavier)
peerless sLs-85s25cp04-04 (heavier)
faital pro 3fe25-4
faital pro 3fe22-4
fatal pro 3fe22-8 (two drivers per side to stay under 4ohms for efficiency)
peerless 830985
b&c 3.5ndf26 (two drivers per side to stay under 4ohms for efficiency)
lavoce fsn030.71 (two drivers per side to stay under 4ohms for efficiency)
dayton dc130b-4 (heavier)
morel caw 428 (likely require tweeter)
silver flute w14rc25-04 (heavier)
beam 4fr40nd (two drivers per side to stay under 4ohms for efficiency)
18sound 6nd430 (looks excellent, but would be too large and heavy with 4 drivers)
peerless ne180w-04 (heavier)
peerless ne123w-04
Apologies for most choices coming from parts express, but their selection of all components seems good. I use winISD pro to model. I do not own any audio measuring equipment.
ANY advice / wisdom / suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I am building a new portable bluetooth speaker for my bicycle.
I currently have a 4.7" hammond abs box with 2 monacor sph 30-4 drivers in it. It's fed by an amp6 (tripath TA202) powered by a 4 cell 12.8v LiFePO4 batttery.
Pros of current system: reasonably loud (guessing around 90dB), weighs less than 2#, small form factor, >5hr battery life at high volume.
Cons of current system: stereo sound from 2 drivers sharing same enclosure aint right..but honestly doesn't sound bad to my ears), lacks bass below 150Hz, no bluetooth and I go through a lot of lightning to 3.5mm jacks .
Ways I'd like to improve it: add bluetooth, new amp, new power supply, new drivers, new enclosure....maybe dsp to shape response in less than idea enclosure.
GOALS of new bike speaker: small size, low weight (<5#), more dB, lower bass response, longer battery life.
Current ideas:
-Amp: tpa3116 with bluetooth like a Dayton Audio KAB-250v3. no dsp but other goals met. could add a miniDSP, but would need a buck converter. I could use Dayton Audio DSPB-250 for the dsp and add Sure Electronics AA-AB41136 Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver to get both bluetooth and dsp...but would like to power the amp with 22.2 volts...again necessitating a buck converter for the 12v bluetooth receiver. (extra space and weight)
-Battery: two Dayton Audio LBB-3 connected to a NTE R14-11D10-24 10A 24 VDC DPDT General Purpose Relay and 4 diodes to allow for playback AND charging without removing battery.
My current setup has amp, battery and speakers all in separate enclosures (works well for aerodynamics). I am not against using a similar 3 piece setup but also think it'd be nice to have all components in 1 enclosure to remove from bike and take it to the beach.
-Speaker Enclosure material: mdi and plywood are heavy. Considering using pvc or abs tube(s) or sheets. Tubes would be easier to work with (less edge glue failure potential).
-Speaker Enclosure : restricted by wanting small volume enclosure for mounting on bike. I want to get near 100dB and play from 80Hz - 20k Hz. I've read the boominator thread and understand getting below 80Hz outdoors in a smaller enclosure aint gonna happen. I also understand Hoffman's Iron Law...I'd just like to push that law as much as I can 🙂
Between handle bars above tire (preferred location). 13" x 8" max exterior size (10.7L total). Best idea I've had is using two 8"pvc pipes cut to 5.5" height (4.5L each before subtracting for driver basket(s), port(s), batteries, amp. I would seal off one end and mount speaker and pr both facing outward to allowed sealed ends to butt up against each other and have drivers firing towards sides of bike. side firing drivers allows me to crank up the volume without destroying my own hearing 🙂
Rear rack above tire (hate to add a rack and look like my grandpa doodling down the road). 17" x 11.5" x 6" max external size (19.2L total).
Enclosure type: Likely passive radiator as box likely too small for port...but love the low end extension I could get from a port. I DO NOT UNDERSTAND HOW 1ST PORT RESONANCE WOULD EFFECT A FULL RANGE DRIVER.
dayton ds90-pr seems to model well with most of the drivers I am looking at with a tuned volume of 1.25L for 82Hz fb.
_Speakers: must be efficient to preserve battery life and get near 100dB in enclosure. Would like a single full range driver per side to reduce weight and volume of enclosure. Would like to stay under 4 ohms for amp efficiency and subsequent battery life.
Potential candidates:
dayton nd91-4
dayton dma80-4
dayton tcp 115-4 (heavier)
peerless sLs-85s25cp04-04 (heavier)
faital pro 3fe25-4
faital pro 3fe22-4
fatal pro 3fe22-8 (two drivers per side to stay under 4ohms for efficiency)
peerless 830985
b&c 3.5ndf26 (two drivers per side to stay under 4ohms for efficiency)
lavoce fsn030.71 (two drivers per side to stay under 4ohms for efficiency)
dayton dc130b-4 (heavier)
morel caw 428 (likely require tweeter)
silver flute w14rc25-04 (heavier)
beam 4fr40nd (two drivers per side to stay under 4ohms for efficiency)
18sound 6nd430 (looks excellent, but would be too large and heavy with 4 drivers)
peerless ne180w-04 (heavier)
peerless ne123w-04
Apologies for most choices coming from parts express, but their selection of all components seems good. I use winISD pro to model. I do not own any audio measuring equipment.
ANY advice / wisdom / suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
You could try the Zoudio amp I use for my home system. It has BT and DSP, can be powered by 22V and can do a 2.1 speaker setup. It's small enough to fit your application.
I'm reminded of the old Altec Lansing IM7 Boombox iPod amplifier box I once had, which seemed to be constructed from a 8" PVC tube with a sub at one end and a passive at the other. Near both ends of the 20 - 24" tube they placed a sealed 2 way. Might be a good study for what you want to do.
I'm reminded of the old Altec Lansing IM7 Boombox iPod amplifier box I once had, which seemed to be constructed from a 8" PVC tube with a sub at one end and a passive at the other. Near both ends of the 20 - 24" tube they placed a sealed 2 way. Might be a good study for what you want to do.