Hi all,
I recently purchased a Elekit TU-882R (like the one here) except the one I purchased was from Japan (I got it for $80 shipped).
Now, I know I can just buy a converter to convert our American 120v down to the 100v used in this Japanese model - but I'm wondering how difficult it would be to do some more extensive internal modding/to swap out the input transformer to be able to run this straight to the wall.
I'm a newb, but I have a soldering iron and have soldered some small projects - I also have a Bottlehead S.E.X. 3.0 kit on the way so I can do that first to get some more experience before diving into this - but just curious - is this just a matter of getting the right transformer and swapping them? What's the best path forward?
Thanks!
I recently purchased a Elekit TU-882R (like the one here) except the one I purchased was from Japan (I got it for $80 shipped).
Now, I know I can just buy a converter to convert our American 120v down to the 100v used in this Japanese model - but I'm wondering how difficult it would be to do some more extensive internal modding/to swap out the input transformer to be able to run this straight to the wall.
I'm a newb, but I have a soldering iron and have soldered some small projects - I also have a Bottlehead S.E.X. 3.0 kit on the way so I can do that first to get some more experience before diving into this - but just curious - is this just a matter of getting the right transformer and swapping them? What's the best path forward?
Thanks!
Thanks! Yes, I sent them a message around the same time as posting here for help there also. Perhaps they'll give me a schematic for the unit as it seems it's been quite some time since they've produced them. In that case, I'd simply have to rewire from the 120v tap on the primary winding back?
Hi all,
So I got a copy of the schematic from the manufacturer. I'll include a photo below. I can't tell from this if there's a center tap on the transformer, but I think there is not.
If this is accurate, then my plans are to replace the power transformer. In that case, my question is do I need to match the voltage and amperage exactly, or is it ok to keep the same voltage and have a higher amperage?
The secondary on this PSU is 170V @ 25mA and 6.3v @ 1A.
Thanks!
So I got a copy of the schematic from the manufacturer. I'll include a photo below. I can't tell from this if there's a center tap on the transformer, but I think there is not.
If this is accurate, then my plans are to replace the power transformer. In that case, my question is do I need to match the voltage and amperage exactly, or is it ok to keep the same voltage and have a higher amperage?
The secondary on this PSU is 170V @ 25mA and 6.3v @ 1A.
Thanks!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You can use an autotransformer, a 16 - 20V filament transformer to buck 120V to 100V or replace it. No 120V tap as I had hoped.
This was per the manufacturer:
(but please make sure not to disclose the manual data
to anyone who has not purchased the product and
do not upload the data to any internet site where
anyone can access.)
I just wanted to be fair to them.
(but please make sure not to disclose the manual data
to anyone who has not purchased the product and
do not upload the data to any internet site where
anyone can access.)
I just wanted to be fair to them.
Japanese Version of TU-882R has a 100V power transformer only.
TU-882R with 120/230V option is the export version.
120V or 230V Power transformer is available.
TU-882R with 120/230V option is the export version.
120V or 230V Power transformer is available.
So I'm thinking of having a bit more fun with this one...
I purchased this new transformer (here). I'm thinking on either hiding the smaller PSU components in the main chassis and mounting this on top or, I could separate the power supply entirely. (the third option, paste this big guy on top of the existing PSU and plumb it right in - I think that's the ugliest/laziest of the options so I'll avoid).
I purchased this new transformer (here). I'm thinking on either hiding the smaller PSU components in the main chassis and mounting this on top or, I could separate the power supply entirely. (the third option, paste this big guy on top of the existing PSU and plumb it right in - I think that's the ugliest/laziest of the options so I'll avoid).
