Well, after 10 different DIY builds (Troels Gravesen, Zaphaudio, Paul Carmody, Jeff Bagby and my own designs) I have decided to “retire”, what means build the “definitive” speaker. I have moved and now I do have some dedicated space for …. The Loudspeaker 2 from Troels Gravesen… or something similar.
First of all, THIS IS NOT THE EXACT DESIGN FROM TROELS: I have changed the insane expensive BMS 18” for the much cheaper and very good performer Faital Pro 18FH510 because I was going to drive it in active mode anyway and I was confident I could make a good active crossover to mix to the upper section.
I’d like to share this build to help others to decide if build it or not and to avoid lots of mistakes and problems that this build can bring.
The system has been driven from an active crossover based in Troels cross points (200Hz, 1300Hz and 10kHz) but as my 18” has more sensitivity than the Troels one, I want to build a passive crossover to use this beast with tubes.
I have tested some passive crossovers but I’m not comfortable with the results. i’m taking new measurements and modeling a new crossover and let’s see what I can get. Please, do not ask for crossover values because there is some kind of everything here: lots of tricks and info gotten from here and there. Nothing 100% reliable, but I will post my frd and zma files to see if, with your help, we can approach a good crossover.
Lets go back to the build:
I have sourced all the drivers at the best price I could at Audio Video Parts
Carlo is a very serious person and you can trust them.
Second thing: Please, if you want to build this speaker, GO FOR CNC. And put this sentence in your mind: GO FOR CNC… and you will build this speaker in 30 hours maximum with no failures or problems.
It looks to be an easy build because there are no flanges or shapes, all is squared… but BEWARE WITH THE DOG. This is a very HUGE speaker and its very difficult to build some parts without good help, and moving it is almost impossible.
I have build these beasts in just 5 weeks with no help. Only my own due to COVID-19 lockdown. It’s not an easy job and it took me like 200 hours, but the final result worth the pity and the money. The sound is really incredible.
I could source all the wood, screws, glue and everything before the lockdown, but any mistake or any change I had to solve by my own. There was no chance to find any more parts outside.
I have used birch wood for all the speaker unless the front baffle, built in bamboo. Inner braces were built in pinewood.
Here you have some pictures from the scratch.
Wood cuts:
First of all, THIS IS NOT THE EXACT DESIGN FROM TROELS: I have changed the insane expensive BMS 18” for the much cheaper and very good performer Faital Pro 18FH510 because I was going to drive it in active mode anyway and I was confident I could make a good active crossover to mix to the upper section.
I’d like to share this build to help others to decide if build it or not and to avoid lots of mistakes and problems that this build can bring.
The system has been driven from an active crossover based in Troels cross points (200Hz, 1300Hz and 10kHz) but as my 18” has more sensitivity than the Troels one, I want to build a passive crossover to use this beast with tubes.
I have tested some passive crossovers but I’m not comfortable with the results. i’m taking new measurements and modeling a new crossover and let’s see what I can get. Please, do not ask for crossover values because there is some kind of everything here: lots of tricks and info gotten from here and there. Nothing 100% reliable, but I will post my frd and zma files to see if, with your help, we can approach a good crossover.
Lets go back to the build:
I have sourced all the drivers at the best price I could at Audio Video Parts
Carlo is a very serious person and you can trust them.
Second thing: Please, if you want to build this speaker, GO FOR CNC. And put this sentence in your mind: GO FOR CNC… and you will build this speaker in 30 hours maximum with no failures or problems.
It looks to be an easy build because there are no flanges or shapes, all is squared… but BEWARE WITH THE DOG. This is a very HUGE speaker and its very difficult to build some parts without good help, and moving it is almost impossible.
I have build these beasts in just 5 weeks with no help. Only my own due to COVID-19 lockdown. It’s not an easy job and it took me like 200 hours, but the final result worth the pity and the money. The sound is really incredible.
I could source all the wood, screws, glue and everything before the lockdown, but any mistake or any change I had to solve by my own. There was no chance to find any more parts outside.
I have used birch wood for all the speaker unless the front baffle, built in bamboo. Inner braces were built in pinewood.
Here you have some pictures from the scratch.
Wood cuts:
Middle structure with separated chambers for mids and tweeter. My first mistake: I cut those chambers.
I solved this putting some more wood behind and sealing it.
BE VERY CAREFUL BECAUSE SPEAKERS HAVE TO BE MIRRORED.
I was not sure if installing the bass reflex ports close to the mids (like The Loudspeaker 1) and tweeter, or at the bottom of the cabinet (like The Loudspeaker 2), that's the why there is still a hole together with the mids cabs. I finally decide to install bass reflex at the bottom and closed both chambers.
Some joining:
I solved this putting some more wood behind and sealing it.
BE VERY CAREFUL BECAUSE SPEAKERS HAVE TO BE MIRRORED.
I was not sure if installing the bass reflex ports close to the mids (like The Loudspeaker 1) and tweeter, or at the bottom of the cabinet (like The Loudspeaker 2), that's the why there is still a hole together with the mids cabs. I finally decide to install bass reflex at the bottom and closed both chambers.
Some joining:
I added some fillets to make the joints as perfect as I could and to center them. I made all the work all alone, what means more problems.
Front final assembly
Front side with felt damping installed
Back side with felt damping installed
Front side with felt damping installed
Back side with felt damping installed
Everything ready to fit the front baffle:
I have no pictures from the back side gluing. I did it at the same time to be able to press everything together:
And the final result:
I have no pictures from the back side gluing. I did it at the same time to be able to press everything together:
And the final result:
This is BIG. Not only the size but the sound too.
Lots of headroom and the sound is close to a small concert hall. Sound comes from everywhere and fills the room.
It’s a nice speaker that can manage really well all the spectrum: rock, jazz, classic...
Anyway I have to build a really good crossover to try some tube amps.
Lots of headroom and the sound is close to a small concert hall. Sound comes from everywhere and fills the room.
It’s a nice speaker that can manage really well all the spectrum: rock, jazz, classic...
Anyway I have to build a really good crossover to try some tube amps.
Hi raelman
nice speaker you have build
have i right ,,you use a crossover you have make your self ??
those driver need many hours to settle in....they sound absolute better when they settle in
Best bjarne
nice speaker you have build
have i right ,,you use a crossover you have make your self ??
those driver need many hours to settle in....they sound absolute better when they settle in
Best bjarne
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
hi Raelman. Great speaker, congrats!
I'm tempted, as an upgrade to my Troels' DTQWT.
How does it behave at moderate levels? Let's say around 90 dB peak at listening position.
Does it need to be pushed loud in order to show its qualities ?
Keep us informed about improvements and mods!
thanks a lot
I'm tempted, as an upgrade to my Troels' DTQWT.
How does it behave at moderate levels? Let's say around 90 dB peak at listening position.
Does it need to be pushed loud in order to show its qualities ?
Keep us informed about improvements and mods!
thanks a lot
this systems has 98dB sensitivity!
You can drive with a 18W tubes amplifier with no problem (I have done it)
Louder levels are highly welcome, but they are very good low volume performers. You can listen to all the instruments and voices.
The best and next improvement should be building a good and reliable crossover.
any suggestion to ask help to?
You can drive with a 18W tubes amplifier with no problem (I have done it)
Louder levels are highly welcome, but they are very good low volume performers. You can listen to all the instruments and voices.
The best and next improvement should be building a good and reliable crossover.
any suggestion to ask help to?
Hi Raelman
you need to measure your driver in this cabinet,,,so you can simulate crossover,,
if you look at Troels G the Loudspeaker,,,you can see what he use,,and the filter is different on Loudspeaker 1 and Loudspeaker 2 and the reason for this,,front is different
you need to measure your driver in this cabinet,,,so you can simulate crossover,,
if you look at Troels G the Loudspeaker,,,you can see what he use,,and the filter is different on Loudspeaker 1 and Loudspeaker 2 and the reason for this,,front is different
Yes, I do have done measurements, but not really comfident with my crossover skills.
Impedance, phase... some things i'm not really sure I will do well.
Impedance, phase... some things i'm not really sure I will do well.