Hi There,
I have a tube pre-amp guitar pedal which uses a 16VAC power supply like this one: 16VAC 1.25A Unregulated Power Supply BareEnds | Jaycar Electronics New Zealand
However, wall-warts don't last long in the touring environment compared to DC pedal power supplies like this one: Zuma - High Current DC Pedal Power Supply - Strymon
Specifically:
- World mains 100-240v switch
- IEC mains plug
- 2.1mm pedal jacks
- Flatter, longer, wider form-factor
Can a 16VAC 1.25A power supply be built into a similar form-factor by someone who's only ever made DC guitar pedals? I'm pretty green when it comes to this stuff.
And if so, where would I start? Does anyone know of a good circuit, layout and BOM?
Any pointers in the right direction or even good search terms would be much appreciated because I keep finding DIY DC power supplies, not AC.
And sorry if this isn't the right place to be asking.
Cheers
Ben
I have a tube pre-amp guitar pedal which uses a 16VAC power supply like this one: 16VAC 1.25A Unregulated Power Supply BareEnds | Jaycar Electronics New Zealand
However, wall-warts don't last long in the touring environment compared to DC pedal power supplies like this one: Zuma - High Current DC Pedal Power Supply - Strymon
Specifically:
- World mains 100-240v switch
- IEC mains plug
- 2.1mm pedal jacks
- Flatter, longer, wider form-factor
Can a 16VAC 1.25A power supply be built into a similar form-factor by someone who's only ever made DC guitar pedals? I'm pretty green when it comes to this stuff.
And if so, where would I start? Does anyone know of a good circuit, layout and BOM?
Any pointers in the right direction or even good search terms would be much appreciated because I keep finding DIY DC power supplies, not AC.
And sorry if this isn't the right place to be asking.
Cheers
Ben
Has the Walmarts PSU failed electrically or mechanically ?
If it has only failed mechanically it would be easy to fit it into a more robust chassis.
If it has failed electrically then that is a bit more tricky. 16VAC is not a common transformer.
If it has only failed mechanically it would be easy to fit it into a more robust chassis.
If it has failed electrically then that is a bit more tricky. 16VAC is not a common transformer.
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All you need is a box/connectors, and some dual primary transformers. Shouldn't be too hard.
A pcb mount transformer arrangement would be more likely to be damaged in rough handling.
One transformer per output. How many separate outputs? Fuse each one separately.
See the Hammond 266L16 here:
Hammond Mfg. - Power Transformer - Dual Primary / Dual Secondary (266 Series)
A pcb mount transformer arrangement would be more likely to be damaged in rough handling.
One transformer per output. How many separate outputs? Fuse each one separately.
See the Hammond 266L16 here:
Hammond Mfg. - Power Transformer - Dual Primary / Dual Secondary (266 Series)
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Not knowing the design of the pedal I'm guessing but you would probably be OK with 18VAC which is a common value.
You will need:
A case
An IEC power inlet preferably with a built in fuse holder
Two total fuse holders
Five 1/4 amp time delay or slow blow fuse.
An SPDT 1/4" bushing miniature switch with a short handle
An output cord
A Heyco cord grommet
An uninsulated ground lug
And I would suggest using a 220 volt to 32 volt 1.5 amp dual primary, dual secondary toroidal transformer also know as 110 to 16 volt dual winding transformer
Don't forget to get the mounting plate, gasket and screw for it
Wire the IEC connector with the US standard hot lead going to the spring terminal of the fuse holder. The fixed end goes to a transformer primary lead with a black dot on it. Jump the primary lead without a dot to the other primary lead with a dot. You can use a wire nut or other insulated splice to connect those leads. The remaining secondary lead without a dot goes directly to the other AC line terminal of the IEC connector. The ground pin on the IEC connector gets connected to the case.
The not dotted lead of one of the secondaries can use a wire nut to connect to one of the output leads. The dotted lead of the winding gets connected to the unfitted lead of the other winding and to one side of the voltage selection switch.
The center of the switch goes to the open wire of the output leads.
The final dotted lead of the transformer secondary goes to the other side of the switch.
The second fuse holder is not connected to anything! It is just used to keep a spare fuse!
Optionally you can get a led pilot light and wire it across the output leads but be sure to put a 3,300 ohm 1 watt resistor in series with a 1N4002 diode then the LED.
Of course first you should draw out everything.
If you want to get fancy you can replace the voltage selector switch with a pair of 48 volt and 18 volt AC relays.
A case
An IEC power inlet preferably with a built in fuse holder
Two total fuse holders
Five 1/4 amp time delay or slow blow fuse.
An SPDT 1/4" bushing miniature switch with a short handle
An output cord
A Heyco cord grommet
An uninsulated ground lug
And I would suggest using a 220 volt to 32 volt 1.5 amp dual primary, dual secondary toroidal transformer also know as 110 to 16 volt dual winding transformer
Don't forget to get the mounting plate, gasket and screw for it
Wire the IEC connector with the US standard hot lead going to the spring terminal of the fuse holder. The fixed end goes to a transformer primary lead with a black dot on it. Jump the primary lead without a dot to the other primary lead with a dot. You can use a wire nut or other insulated splice to connect those leads. The remaining secondary lead without a dot goes directly to the other AC line terminal of the IEC connector. The ground pin on the IEC connector gets connected to the case.
The not dotted lead of one of the secondaries can use a wire nut to connect to one of the output leads. The dotted lead of the winding gets connected to the unfitted lead of the other winding and to one side of the voltage selection switch.
The center of the switch goes to the open wire of the output leads.
The final dotted lead of the transformer secondary goes to the other side of the switch.
The second fuse holder is not connected to anything! It is just used to keep a spare fuse!
Optionally you can get a led pilot light and wire it across the output leads but be sure to put a 3,300 ohm 1 watt resistor in series with a 1N4002 diode then the LED.
Of course first you should draw out everything.
If you want to get fancy you can replace the voltage selector switch with a pair of 48 volt and 18 volt AC relays.
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