Hi,
For some reason the search function doesn't appear to work so I am posting here on the off chance!!
I have designed an hf horn eq circuit with rcl impedance correction. I have tested it as a hard wired circuit but would really like a pcb designed for it. I don't have "Gerber" files but do have a circuit diagram and component list with component types, dimensions, lead our wire specs and where appropriate, weight.
I have only been able to get quotes from commercial outfits which are inappropriate in my circumstances! I am happy to pay of course but the quantities would be initially prototype...
Anybody out there, particularly in lock down, who would be happy to help me with this??
Cheers...
For some reason the search function doesn't appear to work so I am posting here on the off chance!!
I have designed an hf horn eq circuit with rcl impedance correction. I have tested it as a hard wired circuit but would really like a pcb designed for it. I don't have "Gerber" files but do have a circuit diagram and component list with component types, dimensions, lead our wire specs and where appropriate, weight.
I have only been able to get quotes from commercial outfits which are inappropriate in my circumstances! I am happy to pay of course but the quantities would be initially prototype...
Anybody out there, particularly in lock down, who would be happy to help me with this??
Cheers...
I can send pdf's with those details. The component count is 14, all Jantzen, 4 caps, 6 resisters (5 + 10 watt) and 4 chokes, including 2 ferrite core a 2 small air core.
It would seem a board size of around 8x6ins would be appropriate but not set in stone.
I only know what a uk commercial company wanted to charge me (too much) but I also understand I would need to cover for design time and materials if taken to actual prototype...
I can e mail the circuit and component details to those interested in quoting because at the moment it's a bit like how long is a piece of string!! But of course I don't expect anyone to work for nothing either!
It would seem a board size of around 8x6ins would be appropriate but not set in stone.
I only know what a uk commercial company wanted to charge me (too much) but I also understand I would need to cover for design time and materials if taken to actual prototype...
I can e mail the circuit and component details to those interested in quoting because at the moment it's a bit like how long is a piece of string!! But of course I don't expect anyone to work for nothing either!
I do many things just for the enjoyment..
Are you looking to also spec out the locations of the parts? Crossovers, coils in particular, can interact with each other. Generally speaking, the rules are spacing and orientation, especially the spacing, so if size is not the concern, better results can be had.
I will actually be designing a pcb for my own crossover soon that will entail it being part of the terminal plate itself, and making the cover out of it as well.
Are you looking to also spec out the locations of the parts? Crossovers, coils in particular, can interact with each other. Generally speaking, the rules are spacing and orientation, especially the spacing, so if size is not the concern, better results can be had.
I will actually be designing a pcb for my own crossover soon that will entail it being part of the terminal plate itself, and making the cover out of it as well.
PCb
Hello Synonymous,
Thank you for your response. I am happy to attach the pdf's and to be advised!
I am aware that the chokes need to be spaced and possibly orientated to avoid interaction which is why I thought a larger board would be appropriate. I imagine they would need to be cable tied to secure? Board size is not really an issue as it will probably be secured in the cabinet.
For a board that size I guess six securing points/stand offs/pillars??
Anyway, all help gratefully received and look forward to hearing back from you,
Best Regards,
David
Hello Synonymous,
Thank you for your response. I am happy to attach the pdf's and to be advised!
I am aware that the chokes need to be spaced and possibly orientated to avoid interaction which is why I thought a larger board would be appropriate. I imagine they would need to be cable tied to secure? Board size is not really an issue as it will probably be secured in the cabinet.
For a board that size I guess six securing points/stand offs/pillars??
Anyway, all help gratefully received and look forward to hearing back from you,
Best Regards,
David
OK
Thanks David
I'll have some time in the next days to re-scheme it together and get a basic layout for you to look at.
Do you have an idea for mounting, holes or anything special for mounting the actual PCB? I see that you want holes for zip-ties for the chokes, I usually do 2 minimum for smaller and 3-4 for larger.
S
Thanks David
I'll have some time in the next days to re-scheme it together and get a basic layout for you to look at.
Do you have an idea for mounting, holes or anything special for mounting the actual PCB? I see that you want holes for zip-ties for the chokes, I usually do 2 minimum for smaller and 3-4 for larger.
S
Hi,
I thought 3 holes per side down the long dimension on each side to accept small screws with stand offs to mount inside the cabinet? The small chokes are very small being only around an inch in diameter but all the dimensions and weights are on one of the pdf's.. so I leave it to your expertise? Really great, thank you...
I thought 3 holes per side down the long dimension on each side to accept small screws with stand offs to mount inside the cabinet? The small chokes are very small being only around an inch in diameter but all the dimensions and weights are on one of the pdf's.. so I leave it to your expertise? Really great, thank you...
OK
Sometimes I use rubber grommets that fit into the PCB and then the screws go into the grommets to reduce the vibration and offer some flex. You could still use adhesive anyways, which is easy and usually best.
S
Sometimes I use rubber grommets that fit into the PCB and then the screws go into the grommets to reduce the vibration and offer some flex. You could still use adhesive anyways, which is easy and usually best.
S