Hi,
I am doing a little DIY at home, apologies this isnt really audio related!
I have begun to build a cabin bed for my eldest son, which I plan to hang on the wall. The room is literally the length of a single bed, so the bed will be supported on 3 sides.
On the long edge I have a brick wall, and also at one end, and I have some sturdy looking M10 anchor screws, and something like 7 or 8 anchor points along the bed frame length., and foot end, placed every 8 or 10 inches.
So I am then left with the head end of the bed, which is hollow wall.
I'm looking for some suggestions for plasterboard fixings that I can rely on to take their share of the load.
TIA for any help
I am doing a little DIY at home, apologies this isnt really audio related!
I have begun to build a cabin bed for my eldest son, which I plan to hang on the wall. The room is literally the length of a single bed, so the bed will be supported on 3 sides.
On the long edge I have a brick wall, and also at one end, and I have some sturdy looking M10 anchor screws, and something like 7 or 8 anchor points along the bed frame length., and foot end, placed every 8 or 10 inches.
So I am then left with the head end of the bed, which is hollow wall.
I'm looking for some suggestions for plasterboard fixings that I can rely on to take their share of the load.
TIA for any help
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Ah ha!
Well... I have cross members too! They just arent shown in the photograph.
Actually, in fact, none of the pieces are fixed to the wall in that picture, but wedged in place, so I can fix the others, once the 3 pieces against the wall are secured. The rear piece is hung on nails, while I fit and level the rest of the frame.
It will be constructed much like a stud wall, but I'm no builder/carpenter, so I'm figuring things out as I go along.
I was going to glue each joint with corner wedges, or use a pocket drill tool, so I can assemble it all in situ.
Well... I have cross members too! They just arent shown in the photograph.
Actually, in fact, none of the pieces are fixed to the wall in that picture, but wedged in place, so I can fix the others, once the 3 pieces against the wall are secured. The rear piece is hung on nails, while I fit and level the rest of the frame.
It will be constructed much like a stud wall, but I'm no builder/carpenter, so I'm figuring things out as I go along.
I was going to glue each joint with corner wedges, or use a pocket drill tool, so I can assemble it all in situ.
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I guess they would have a stud (is that what the wood frame is called?)
Finding it, may be my problem.
Tapping the wall is a bit hit and miss.
Plus I have a shower on the other side of the wall, and the water pipes may be plastic.
So perhaps i need to buy a stud finder?
Finding it, may be my problem.
Tapping the wall is a bit hit and miss.
Plus I have a shower on the other side of the wall, and the water pipes may be plastic.
So perhaps i need to buy a stud finder?
Well, I think a UK standard is either 300mm or 450mm. Perhaps even 600mm.
I need to Google that!
Of course, assuming that whoever's put the wall up, didn't use any arbitrary measure to space the verticals
Ah google says either 400mm or 600mm, 16" or 24"
I need to Google that!
Of course, assuming that whoever's put the wall up, didn't use any arbitrary measure to space the verticals
Ah google says either 400mm or 600mm, 16" or 24"
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Thank you.
I still have to guess which measure the builder used, but your comment have got my brain on to the right track.
I still have to guess which measure the builder used, but your comment have got my brain on to the right track.
Oh, golly, maybe you should hire the job done? You can hang a picture on wallboard. Not your child and a mattress. (Actually it could stay-up, a while, but crumble over time.)
I've never seen a stud finder worked as good as a knuckle and a good ear. As my skin thins and my ear dims, I may have to learn. When I move. I've already found every stud in this house.
You can also use a tiny drill (or drywall screw) every 1.5". Tedious. It can be VERY effective to drill a hole, bend a wire, and go poking 6" either side of the hole. (Unless the wall is fuzz-filled.)
A homeowner MUST have a working skill with spackle and paint. Outside the US, Polyfina is common. For minor wounds I like "lightweight spackle"... the tub feels empty because it is 98% hollow glass beads.
DIY - Hanging heavy things - how to find a wall stud
Building a Stud Wall - DIY Extra
In the UK it may be common to have a horizontal bit halfway up. This may not be secure, or extend the width of a bed. You want the vertical timbers.
The distance between studs was apparently defined by Joe The Carpenter (Jesus' "Dad") as a short-guy cubit, 16 inches. Or maybe Noah and his Arc? (Lot of walls in that thing.) More recently it has been one claw-hammer. Even more recently cheap builders have gotten 24" OC approved (it also reduces thermal loss).
You need to find the center of each stud (not screw so close to the edge that the stud splits). With 2x3 bed frame you probably can't benefit with more than one screw per stud (the 2nd screw just chews-up and weakens the stud). You MUST get two studs, and one in each half of the bed (not cantilevered). With a good distribution of studs you can use 3mm or 4mm screws 4 inches long. With an unfortunate stud layout use 1/4"x4.5" lag screws.
I've never seen a stud finder worked as good as a knuckle and a good ear. As my skin thins and my ear dims, I may have to learn. When I move. I've already found every stud in this house.
You can also use a tiny drill (or drywall screw) every 1.5". Tedious. It can be VERY effective to drill a hole, bend a wire, and go poking 6" either side of the hole. (Unless the wall is fuzz-filled.)
A homeowner MUST have a working skill with spackle and paint. Outside the US, Polyfina is common. For minor wounds I like "lightweight spackle"... the tub feels empty because it is 98% hollow glass beads.
DIY - Hanging heavy things - how to find a wall stud
Building a Stud Wall - DIY Extra
In the UK it may be common to have a horizontal bit halfway up. This may not be secure, or extend the width of a bed. You want the vertical timbers.
The distance between studs was apparently defined by Joe The Carpenter (Jesus' "Dad") as a short-guy cubit, 16 inches. Or maybe Noah and his Arc? (Lot of walls in that thing.) More recently it has been one claw-hammer. Even more recently cheap builders have gotten 24" OC approved (it also reduces thermal loss).
You need to find the center of each stud (not screw so close to the edge that the stud splits). With 2x3 bed frame you probably can't benefit with more than one screw per stud (the 2nd screw just chews-up and weakens the stud). You MUST get two studs, and one in each half of the bed (not cantilevered). With a good distribution of studs you can use 3mm or 4mm screws 4 inches long. With an unfortunate stud layout use 1/4"x4.5" lag screws.
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The best p/bd fixings are interset fixings if you can't find the studs. You dont need the special tool to fit them.
Brilliant advice!
Its obvious I suppose.
So I'll start in the corner, assuming the first stud is fixed directly to the external brick wall and measure out 16", and drill some test holes.
"Spackle" is a term alien to me, maybe because I'm no builder, maybe it's a US term?
But I have lots of polyfilla!
I guess I have the option of making legs out of 2x3 which snugly fit the space between bed frame and floor boards, and then fix them in place to the plasterboard. Then the legs should bear the weight rather than the wall.
I dont get the bit about 16" being a short guy cubit, mainly as AFAIK a cubit is 12" defined by the distance from wrist to elbow.
More like a giant's cubit!
Or perhaps just 4 'hands' width?
Thanks 🙂
Its obvious I suppose.
So I'll start in the corner, assuming the first stud is fixed directly to the external brick wall and measure out 16", and drill some test holes.
"Spackle" is a term alien to me, maybe because I'm no builder, maybe it's a US term?
But I have lots of polyfilla!
I guess I have the option of making legs out of 2x3 which snugly fit the space between bed frame and floor boards, and then fix them in place to the plasterboard. Then the legs should bear the weight rather than the wall.
I dont get the bit about 16" being a short guy cubit, mainly as AFAIK a cubit is 12" defined by the distance from wrist to elbow.
More like a giant's cubit!
Or perhaps just 4 'hands' width?
Thanks 🙂
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Also, as usual, an obvious solution comes to mind.
Always after what seems to be an excess amount of thought
Triangles
I could always just cut a 45 degree brace from midway across the width of the frame, and back to the brick wall.
Always after what seems to be an excess amount of thought
Triangles
I could always just cut a 45 degree brace from midway across the width of the frame, and back to the brick wall.
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In standard wall construction there should be a double stud on each side of the window, with a header over top of the window, the size and amount of material in the header depends on the width of the window. In North America we still use studs on 16in centers.
I use a product called durabond90 which is a chemical cured material, hard as nails, you only use enough to fill the hole as you are not supposed to sand it (if you have to remove it a chisel is used), then you use your normal sand-able mud over that.
I use a product called durabond90 which is a chemical cured material, hard as nails, you only use enough to fill the hole as you are not supposed to sand it (if you have to remove it a chisel is used), then you use your normal sand-able mud over that.
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Hi
Thanks for your reply, I cant have been very clear with my problem description
The wall with the window is brick, the adjacent wall on side is also brick. The left hand side adjacent wall is stud wall constructed to split one bedroom into a bathroom and box room.
I should update the thread and say that I bought a cheap stud finder, and I have a much better idea where the studs are on this wall as well as the water pipe work for the shower behind. The is some AC wiring present, possibly the earth bond from the shower outlet, which I assume is cable clipped to the side of one stud.
I have been waiting for a 25mm forstner bit, penny washers for M8 and M10, and a 12mm masonry bit, for the large anchor screws I will be using on the brick walls.
Thanks for your reply, I cant have been very clear with my problem description
The wall with the window is brick, the adjacent wall on side is also brick. The left hand side adjacent wall is stud wall constructed to split one bedroom into a bathroom and box room.
I should update the thread and say that I bought a cheap stud finder, and I have a much better idea where the studs are on this wall as well as the water pipe work for the shower behind. The is some AC wiring present, possibly the earth bond from the shower outlet, which I assume is cable clipped to the side of one stud.
I have been waiting for a 25mm forstner bit, penny washers for M8 and M10, and a 12mm masonry bit, for the large anchor screws I will be using on the brick walls.
I do not know if you may be able to use this small trick.
The most certain way to find studs inside the plaster wall is to use a magnet and then try to locate the plaster-screws.
Do'nt use any screw for plaster-board but buy the one for wood where the tip is the self-drilling type. Do also try to get those recommended for downwards load, some screws do break easier if under sheer load, avoid them. 🙂
The most certain way to find studs inside the plaster wall is to use a magnet and then try to locate the plaster-screws.
Do'nt use any screw for plaster-board but buy the one for wood where the tip is the self-drilling type. Do also try to get those recommended for downwards load, some screws do break easier if under sheer load, avoid them. 🙂