• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Tube kit recommendations?

Hi all,

I've been running my rebuilt Fisher 500C for a while now and it sounds great, really enjoying it but...you know how this hobby goes...always looking for an "upgrade". Also, the Fisher is a big unit that I really don't need all it's functionality. I really only listen to vinyl on it. Also, I love the look of tubes glowing and they are hidden away in the Fisher. All this to say, I'm looking at options for a separate tube pre and amp.

Here's my setup:

Sources: 2-3 turntables running at any given time (TD-124, ARXA and Ariston RD11s currently)
Speakers: Klipsch Forte 1's (I have Bob Crites crossover and tweeter upgrades but still need to install)

Ideally, what I'd like to get is a preamp that allows multiple phono inputs (at least 2) and have option for both MM and MC carts. I'm not currently using low output MCs but that may change. And since vinyl is all I listen to, I want to keep that option open.

For the Amp, I just want great sound with very low floor noise. SET, push-pull, 300B, stereo or monoblocks...I really don't know and would welcome advice here.

Budget: I started looking at used Mac gear (I always loved the look of Macs and dreamed of owning some). The C2300 preamp is amazing and fits my needs (I think) but used runs $4K+CAN. An MC225 or pair of MC30s would be great amp choices but again, I'm looking at least $3K there. So I'm thinking, maybe there's options to get close in performance to these Macs for significantly less that $7K? Enter possible kits.

Kits: I've looked at Elekit (vkmusic), Transcendent, Tubelab, Dynakit, bottlehead and tubes4hifi. I was really considering tubes4hifi for both pre and amp but then read some really disturbing reviews specifically on the preamp and the customer service. The Transcendent stuff looks really cool. Tubelab may be a bit too DIY 😉

Skill: I'm not an electronics wizard by any stretch. My skills are more in woodworking but I've built lots of speakers and soldered crossovers and even recapped a few old ones. So I would need basic level instructions, reliable kits and access to help such as forums like this one.

So, I'd welcome recommendations that would fit my needs, skill and budget (which is sorta flexible below that $7K mark, at which point I'd just get the mac gear).

Thx
 
Think you want to sell the Fisher on ebay, and buy the Mac stuff.
Get the new McIntosh MC275 if you can. Old power amps are very expensive to update.
All but the transformers/chassis should be replaced. If it makes you happy, keep it.
If not then you'll know, and sell it. Then you can buy something else instead,
but hey, life is short. You can let go of the AR-XA, the arm is real bad.
 
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If your looking for kits i can highly recommend Bottlehead. I build my own stuff these days, but have built many of their kits for other people, instructions are great, as is the support on their forum, but most important is they always sound really good. Ask the same question on the BH forum and see what advise you get from other owners...
 
While some preamps have the ability to switch between multiple turntables, switches in mV. level signal lines are (IMO) a prescription for trouble. I suggest you build 2 or more different phono preamps to avoid the switches and get "flavor" differences. The already mentioned Bottlehead stuff is built around the 6922 tube family. Another "affordable" option is Jim Hagerman's Cornet, which is built around 12AX7s.

S/N performance totally rules the roost, when dealing with μV. O/P level LOMC cartridges. It's tough to get adequate S/N performance out 100% tubed circuitry at this low level. Either Allen Wright's hybrid cascode or step up transformers (SUTs) working into a tubed MM level phono preamp are much less problematic. Given the multiple TT penchant, a SUT box which can be moved around seems to be the correct choice.

FWIW, Fisher phono sections have a reputation for being somewhat bass shy. Whatever you settle on may have some happy surprises for your ears.
 
Everything you need

Your speakers won't need much power but you will want quiet amps. The metalworking involved with these isn't too onerous and could be built in wood (mostly) if desired.

Power amp:
DIY EL84 Amp Project: Part 3, Circuit Board Assembly | Wall of Sound | Audio and Music Reviews

Phono amp:
DIY All-Tube Phono Stage Project: Part 4, Assembling The Circuit Boards | Wall of Sound | Audio and Music Reviews

Line stage:
Battle of the Cheap Line Stages, Part 4 | Wall of Sound | Audio and Music Reviews


There are more installments to all three builds, the links are just samples. Look around the WOS site for all parts of each of the projects.

All three are reasonably quiet, which you will need with your Klipsch speakers. The power amp hum was reduced considerably (it didn't have much to start with) once the filter choke was installed.

S.
 
How about ANK kits in Canada? I built and have had an EL34 integrated amp running daily for over 2 years now. Very pleased with the quality of parts and the way it sounds. Talk to Brian Smith, the owner, about your requirements.
 
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Carbon13,

The Forte I spec. sheet suggests that something with a decent, if unspectacular, damping factor and a few W. of power will do the job.

Paul Joppa has given us a rule of thumb for matching amp power to speakers. Joppa's Rule states that, for "typical" listening spaces, an amp/speaker combo should be capable of 102 dB. SPL peaks at a 1 M. distance. The sheet says Forte Is produce 98 dB., when fed 1 W. 3 WPC is "enough".

A "low" cost/high performance option is PP triode wired 6V6 family O/P tubes in circuitry that employs a small amount of loop NFB. A little loop NFB of some kind ensures adequate control of the woofer voice coil. If premium O/P transformers are sourced, "Baby Huey" whose NFB loop is short is a prime candidate. If "ordinary" O/P "iron" is sourced, as a cost containment measure, "El Cheapo" whose NFB loop is global merits (IMO) a look.

SE O/P transformers are more costly than their PP counterparts. DHTs can be hideously expensive. FWIW, it has been said, for this power range, that doing better than triode wired 6V6s requires #45 DHTs.