I have 2 tubes 6336 , i want to built something with these tubes, SE OR P-P, please any information about this??? thanks.
The 6336 is a dual voltage regulator triode, 30W Pa per section, so 60W overall. High gm, low m and low ra. The low m of around 2 point something makes it a little bit hard to drive, though, as does its input capacitance. You can see the data for the 6336A on Frank's here, though I'm not quite sure what the difference between the 6336 and 6336A is (probably heater warmup or something, not sure...)
Hi,
Plate material mostly.
What can you do with just a pair of 6336's anyway?
They're not easy to put to use.
Usually far from matched between triode sections and draw enough current for their heaters alone to make the electricity board stinking rich....😀
Cheers, 😉
Plate material mostly.
What can you do with just a pair of 6336's anyway?
They're not easy to put to use.
Usually far from matched between triode sections and draw enough current for their heaters alone to make the electricity board stinking rich....😀
Cheers, 😉
The way this thread seems to be heading, someone soon will ask to be sent these for 'proper disposal'. 😀
As Frank said, section to section variation can be quite large with these types, so PP operation might be a bit iffy and require careful balancing to prevent DC in the OPT core, but nonetheless someone has made a 6336 PP amp (using a toroidal OPT, no less). But of course, you only have two, so you are left with no spares.
OTL is also out of the question since this needs far more valves than you have on hand.
Hmm... I suppose you could try using a single 6336 as a stereo SE amp, for about 6W per channel. Something along the lines of the "Scrapbox Challenge" if you have the book Valve Amplifiers. You might need a more substantial driver stage than offered for the "Scrapbox Challenge" (SE 6528) since the 6528 has a much higher m (around 9 or so)
As Frank said, section to section variation can be quite large with these types, so PP operation might be a bit iffy and require careful balancing to prevent DC in the OPT core, but nonetheless someone has made a 6336 PP amp (using a toroidal OPT, no less). But of course, you only have two, so you are left with no spares.
OTL is also out of the question since this needs far more valves than you have on hand.
Hmm... I suppose you could try using a single 6336 as a stereo SE amp, for about 6W per channel. Something along the lines of the "Scrapbox Challenge" if you have the book Valve Amplifiers. You might need a more substantial driver stage than offered for the "Scrapbox Challenge" (SE 6528) since the 6528 has a much higher m (around 9 or so)
6336-SE
Hello,
I’m about to fire up the 6336-SE design of Grover Gardner.
Do a google-search and find it. He called – after comparing - this design a ‘Baby-845’, which indicated enough about the nice qualities of this tube.
Indeed it needs a good drive. And beware that the inrush current of the heater is over twice the nominal 5A/6,3V. So a delay that shorts a resistor of say 0,50 ohm/25W after some seconds can spare fuses.
Need a while to report my sonic impression. I visit this forum not frequently.
Arjen.
Hello,
I’m about to fire up the 6336-SE design of Grover Gardner.
Do a google-search and find it. He called – after comparing - this design a ‘Baby-845’, which indicated enough about the nice qualities of this tube.
Indeed it needs a good drive. And beware that the inrush current of the heater is over twice the nominal 5A/6,3V. So a delay that shorts a resistor of say 0,50 ohm/25W after some seconds can spare fuses.
Need a while to report my sonic impression. I visit this forum not frequently.
Arjen.
Nice tube - very low plate Z!
Useful for OTL
Been done up using the Russian equivalent 6C33C (iirc) which has even lower plate Z and more current capability as PP, SE (Borbely Audio has some iron & a design for it) and as mentioned, OTL.
Cool tube.
Run it in A2 or AB2, imho.
_-_-bear
Useful for OTL
Been done up using the Russian equivalent 6C33C (iirc) which has even lower plate Z and more current capability as PP, SE (Borbely Audio has some iron & a design for it) and as mentioned, OTL.
Cool tube.
Run it in A2 or AB2, imho.
_-_-bear
Yes, but your output transformer needs a primary impedence of only 1000 ohms. A super-sized "Lilliput" comes to mind.
John
Oh dear, an oxymoron.
Hi,
Um... why is that?
I can't see this from the characteristics...🙁
Could you explain further?
Lhchen
audiousername said:
Not really true. Depend of the power You need. Taki OTL or the OTL suggested by Tim in another thread in this forum use just one 6336 or 6C33 per channel (power is limited to about 4-5W).
Also a SE is a chioce, putting a few tens ohm resistor in each triode to equalize sections.
I like this tube, more than its russian counterparts. Maybe for the massive graphite plate. The only (big) drawback is the power consuption of filament. Why not a AC/DC computer supply?
Hi,
Nope, the Taki TL uses 4 6336Aa per channel and is optimized for a 16 Ohm load.
Unless you either want to apply GNFB into the instability zone or don't care for bass output you won't have much of a useful real life OTL amp by just using one 6336A per channel.
Moreover, check the specs for the graphite and metal plate versions of the 6336. I'm sure there's a difference in Ri among other things.
That would als up the Ri of the tube and in practice isn't much good for such a current hog as the 6336A.
Better use individual bias, not much of a chance to find 6336As with matched triodes and if you should, they usually don't stay that way for long anyhow.
Cheers, 😉
Nope, the Taki TL uses 4 6336Aa per channel and is optimized for a 16 Ohm load.
Unless you either want to apply GNFB into the instability zone or don't care for bass output you won't have much of a useful real life OTL amp by just using one 6336A per channel.
Moreover, check the specs for the graphite and metal plate versions of the 6336. I'm sure there's a difference in Ri among other things.
That would als up the Ri of the tube and in practice isn't much good for such a current hog as the 6336A.
Better use individual bias, not much of a chance to find 6336As with matched triodes and if you should, they usually don't stay that way for long anyhow.
Cheers, 😉
I've never seen the metal plate version, nor knew that it existed! Is that also the case for that OTHER double power triode whose name-shall-not-be-spoken?
In the French magazine L'Audiophile, 1986, Guy Marec describes principles and construction of a cathode coupled push pull 6336A amplifier.
Power 30 watts.
Very detailed article (which was the standard those days). Sonic impressions were excellent.
Power 30 watts.
Very detailed article (which was the standard those days). Sonic impressions were excellent.
I just finished an amp using 6528 tubes, 2 per channel push pull. It didn't work. Single tube works fine, but just paralleling the 2 triodes caused it to oscillate at a very high frequency. Finally I crossed connected the triodes in each tube and that works fine. Anybody know why this happened?
