Hi,
I just noticed this speaker which is classified as a mid driver. However the frequency response is pretty much full range. It is down 10db at about 15kHz and a bit more after that but I think it is caused by the rise of impedance rather than mechanical limitations. I can compensate via dsp. I think if coupled with a BR tuned a little lower than the Fs will, the speaker could go to 100+ Hz before transitioning to a subwoofer.
My interest in this is the 99db sensitivity which means this guy can go extremely loud on a 10 W class A amp. The type of loudness you will normally get from the oversized floor stander and multi 100W amplifier at hifi shows.
Any thoughts on this... This speaker is designed to handle over a 100W. So I think 10W will not break a sweat on this guy...
Oon
I just noticed this speaker which is classified as a mid driver. However the frequency response is pretty much full range. It is down 10db at about 15kHz and a bit more after that but I think it is caused by the rise of impedance rather than mechanical limitations. I can compensate via dsp. I think if coupled with a BR tuned a little lower than the Fs will, the speaker could go to 100+ Hz before transitioning to a subwoofer.
My interest in this is the 99db sensitivity which means this guy can go extremely loud on a 10 W class A amp. The type of loudness you will normally get from the oversized floor stander and multi 100W amplifier at hifi shows.
Any thoughts on this... This speaker is designed to handle over a 100W. So I think 10W will not break a sweat on this guy...
Oon
That driver drops at 5.5kHz, so it would need a tweeter for the highs.
And you will need a woofer for the low end.
So, Faital advertised this driver well, it is a mid woofer.
And you will need a woofer for the low end.
So, Faital advertised this driver well, it is a mid woofer.
Depends on how you look at it. In a traditional sense of the way, yes, the frequency rolls of after about 10kHz. However if the roll of is caused by the rise in inductance (the inductance has increased 3x) compared to base level, it can be boosted to via a dsp or active method. If the drop is because of mechanical reasons, it would not sound good. As for the bass. It is caused by the rise in impedance as well. By using a PR or bass reflex you would flatten that impedance rise and increase the bass response. However it will still need a rather punchy subwoofer to back it up.
Oon
Oon
Note the vertical scale - it's over 10dB down above 8kHz and dips to 20dB down at 10kHz. Hardly 'fullrange' response, imo. Similarly, the bottom end is also weak due to Fs = 180Hz. Useful output below 200Hz is unlikely unless you tolerate large group delay with a box tuned around 100-150Hz.
Hi,
My definition of full range is slightly different from most people's. My definition would be based on if the driver can be eq to play full range nicely either by active filters or dsp. Some eq is normally required, either for Baffle step or to suppress some peaks or rising frequency response anyway.
In which case a 10db high shelf would equalize it reasonably flat. Which is not a big deal. And yes I do intend to put in a PR or BR. That will suppress the rise in impedance around the Fs and effectively boost the signal. And eq whatever is left. Besides, I plan to use it as a FAST. So it is a matter of how low I want to change it.
Of course there is also the option of using a tweeter of doing the job, but I am rather adventurous.
My bigger concern is the mechanical part. Which can't be fixed. Nasty cone break up. Limitation of excursion etc. Damping etc.
My interest in forcing this fella to do a WAW is that it will give 99db to a watt. That's crazy loud. Match that with a class A or SET, it will sound like a 100 W transistor amp or so in a normal speaker. And if it sounds good and you mate it with a matching subwoofer that can deliver a hefty punch, would be an incredibly loud hifi system...
Oon
My definition of full range is slightly different from most people's. My definition would be based on if the driver can be eq to play full range nicely either by active filters or dsp. Some eq is normally required, either for Baffle step or to suppress some peaks or rising frequency response anyway.
In which case a 10db high shelf would equalize it reasonably flat. Which is not a big deal. And yes I do intend to put in a PR or BR. That will suppress the rise in impedance around the Fs and effectively boost the signal. And eq whatever is left. Besides, I plan to use it as a FAST. So it is a matter of how low I want to change it.
Of course there is also the option of using a tweeter of doing the job, but I am rather adventurous.
My bigger concern is the mechanical part. Which can't be fixed. Nasty cone break up. Limitation of excursion etc. Damping etc.
My interest in forcing this fella to do a WAW is that it will give 99db to a watt. That's crazy loud. Match that with a class A or SET, it will sound like a 100 W transistor amp or so in a normal speaker. And if it sounds good and you mate it with a matching subwoofer that can deliver a hefty punch, would be an incredibly loud hifi system...
Oon
The cone breakup at 5.5kHz would be a concern for me. Bear in mind the graphs are smoothed, and that peak could actually be quite sharp. I'd expect some time-domain problems associated with it, and you can't really EQ those.
The last consideration is that EQing the HF response is fine if you listen exactly on the measurement axis. You could make a 21" sub driver go up to 20kHz (I think mine got to 5kHz before I ran out of EQ filters to boost it further), but the output is a laserbeam up there. I'd expect similar problems with this driver - you'll only have the correct treble balance in one place.
Treat it as it is - a midrange driver. Run it 300Hz-3kHz and avoid the cone breakup.
Chris
The last consideration is that EQing the HF response is fine if you listen exactly on the measurement axis. You could make a 21" sub driver go up to 20kHz (I think mine got to 5kHz before I ran out of EQ filters to boost it further), but the output is a laserbeam up there. I'd expect similar problems with this driver - you'll only have the correct treble balance in one place.
Treat it as it is - a midrange driver. Run it 300Hz-3kHz and avoid the cone breakup.
Chris
Hi Chris,
Noted on that. Actually after reading through the specs, I was put off most by the low Qms of 1.9 and the very high Rms of 4. Which seems to indicate the whole system is very heavily damped. I am not sure I will like the sound of that.
Anyway that's a big put off for me and I will put it in the back burner for another time..
Oon
Noted on that. Actually after reading through the specs, I was put off most by the low Qms of 1.9 and the very high Rms of 4. Which seems to indicate the whole system is very heavily damped. I am not sure I will like the sound of that.
Anyway that's a big put off for me and I will put it in the back burner for another time..
Oon
Hello,
Do you think this speaker could be used in a JBL waveguide to perform 400-1600hz and go be paired with a 15" and a 1" faital hf108r?
Regards Greg
Do you think this speaker could be used in a JBL waveguide to perform 400-1600hz and go be paired with a 15" and a 1" faital hf108r?
Regards Greg
