There are three types that I would consider "audio grade" resistors:
1. Mundorf MOX resistor
Mundorf MOX Resistors 10 Watt: Madisound Speaker Components
2. Mundorf M-Resist Resistors 20 Watt
Mundorf M-Resist Resistors 20 Watt: Madisound Speaker Components
3. Mills
Mills 4 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor
I personally have used Mundorf MOX and Mundorf M-resist. The MOX didn't seem improve the sound but I think the M-resist did smooth out the treble at least that's what my memories told me.
I haven't used Mills so I am not sure how it compares to Mundorf resistor.
By the way, which is the better cap or at least what would be your preference: Mundorf M-Cap Supreme or Jantzen Audio Superior Z Cap? They are about the same price.
1. Mundorf MOX resistor
Mundorf MOX Resistors 10 Watt: Madisound Speaker Components
2. Mundorf M-Resist Resistors 20 Watt
Mundorf M-Resist Resistors 20 Watt: Madisound Speaker Components
3. Mills
Mills 4 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor
I personally have used Mundorf MOX and Mundorf M-resist. The MOX didn't seem improve the sound but I think the M-resist did smooth out the treble at least that's what my memories told me.
I haven't used Mills so I am not sure how it compares to Mundorf resistor.
By the way, which is the better cap or at least what would be your preference: Mundorf M-Cap Supreme or Jantzen Audio Superior Z Cap? They are about the same price.
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I just typically use sand-cast or panel-mount resistors, as I have not been able to discern a difference from them. The sand-cast and panel-mount (when mounted) handle heat very well due to the construction.
As to caps- I prefer the Silvers to Superiors, but these and Supremes all are metallized polypropylene dual-layer non-inductive types. If construction is of a concern, the Supremes are heat-shrunk average assembly, whereas the Superior, Silver, Silver-Gold are all installed in an aluminum tube. Another option is the Audyn-Plus- Same dual-layer metal-poly construction, installed in aluminum tube, and a lot lower price. While I've not done a direct comparo of the Silver/Plus, I like both in the designs I've used them.
Later,
Wolf
As to caps- I prefer the Silvers to Superiors, but these and Supremes all are metallized polypropylene dual-layer non-inductive types. If construction is of a concern, the Supremes are heat-shrunk average assembly, whereas the Superior, Silver, Silver-Gold are all installed in an aluminum tube. Another option is the Audyn-Plus- Same dual-layer metal-poly construction, installed in aluminum tube, and a lot lower price. While I've not done a direct comparo of the Silver/Plus, I like both in the designs I've used them.
Later,
Wolf
I always use Mills. Never had a sound quality issue wiht them, dead stable thermally, extremely tight tolerances, and relatively small for the wattage.
I noticed at some point Wilson uses the Caddock thick film power resistors. Don't know if they sound any better or worse, but I must say, with heat sinks attached they look damn sexy.
Best,
E
I noticed at some point Wilson uses the Caddock thick film power resistors. Don't know if they sound any better or worse, but I must say, with heat sinks attached they look damn sexy.
Best,
E
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Only resistors in series with the tweeter will make much difference, and some of the difference has to do with cap/resistor combination. I use Mundorf SIO/Audyn True Copper caps for tweets.
The resistors I've tried, in order of preference:
Mundorf MOX just seem to sound right without any edge or emphasis on highs. Very open and detailed, with nice tone and projection of details.
Caddock MP930 thick film with heatsink sound very clear, but produce a mechanical sharpness to highs. I'm sure some people like them for clarity and detail, but to me they sound unmusical and artificial.
Duelund Standard Graphite are expensive, delicate, large, and sound a bit washed out and edgy, not much different from the Caddocks, really. Why pay so much?
Cheap sand cast were okay, not really doing very much wrong, but the highs were a bit congested and rough.
Mills MRA12 sounded a bit flat and a little too smooth, some may say neutral but to me they seemed to round everything off a bit, with not much projection of detail. Dull.
I have been tempted to try the Mundorf M-Resist but have not been able to pull the trigger on $14 wire wound. Now that I'm getting better tweeters (SB Satori neo to replace SS HDS), maybe I'll give them a try.
I'm also tempted to experiment with a bundle of parallel Vishay/Dale MF's. They're cheap and completely neutral in line level apps.
Peace,
Tom E
The resistors I've tried, in order of preference:
Mundorf MOX just seem to sound right without any edge or emphasis on highs. Very open and detailed, with nice tone and projection of details.
Caddock MP930 thick film with heatsink sound very clear, but produce a mechanical sharpness to highs. I'm sure some people like them for clarity and detail, but to me they sound unmusical and artificial.
Duelund Standard Graphite are expensive, delicate, large, and sound a bit washed out and edgy, not much different from the Caddocks, really. Why pay so much?
Cheap sand cast were okay, not really doing very much wrong, but the highs were a bit congested and rough.
Mills MRA12 sounded a bit flat and a little too smooth, some may say neutral but to me they seemed to round everything off a bit, with not much projection of detail. Dull.
I have been tempted to try the Mundorf M-Resist but have not been able to pull the trigger on $14 wire wound. Now that I'm getting better tweeters (SB Satori neo to replace SS HDS), maybe I'll give them a try.
I'm also tempted to experiment with a bundle of parallel Vishay/Dale MF's. They're cheap and completely neutral in line level apps.
Peace,
Tom E
From that list - definitely M-Resist. For some tweeters the Caddocks could be a cleaner, clearer option, but less sweet.
I have tried many different resistors. I like the new "Zisters" available at Meniscus; they are more neutral and clean sounding than the standard MOX.
How about an RC circuit parallel with midrange? Can somebody here difference (if any) in sound? Thanks.
Metal oxide are slightly non-linear, metal film or wirewound are superior in this respect. How much inductance is tolerable depends on the circuit, but non-inductive wirewound will be excellent performers that would always be suitable for passive crossover.
In any normal system the drivers are the major source of non-linearity anyway.
In any normal system the drivers are the major source of non-linearity anyway.
The common type wirewound sand cast resistors claimed to be non inductive for values lower than 27 ohm.
Exactly. Mundorf MOX (green) or Jantzen MOX (grey) is more than enough. We are talking about 6,8 ohm or 7,5 ohm or 8,2 ohm. (not decided yet)
Mills and cast are on the soft touch with very linear and aluinium driver
M resist Supreme is very clear/informative and more lighty which may be good or not with the setup.
My personal exerience at least...
Bulk Vishay Powerton with radiator and its Mundorf sibling made by Vishay but copper core instead aluminium : expensive but said to be better (neutral) said a mate with an ESL but haven't listening them yet for myself.
Is it nt more logical not to use wirewound type in shunt position (// to the driver) ? ... but more MOX here. ?
Mundorf is also saying Mox should be choose for Mid driver especially for fastness behavior...according the datasheet... with so low Z value one may be ask if it worth the hassle.
M resist Supreme is very clear/informative and more lighty which may be good or not with the setup.
My personal exerience at least...
Bulk Vishay Powerton with radiator and its Mundorf sibling made by Vishay but copper core instead aluminium : expensive but said to be better (neutral) said a mate with an ESL but haven't listening them yet for myself.
Is it nt more logical not to use wirewound type in shunt position (// to the driver) ? ... but more MOX here. ?
Mundorf is also saying Mox should be choose for Mid driver especially for fastness behavior...according the datasheet... with so low Z value one may be ask if it worth the hassle.
In series with the midrange I really can hear difference, but not huge. I tried the cheap white ceramic. It sounded very smooth indeed but restricted. The Mundorf MOX was better, clearer. But when I replaced with the Jantzen Superes wirewound that sound the clearest and more natural. In parallel I cannot hear much difference and at this moment the cheap white ceramic is running. But of course all the changes everywhere affect the sound, somewhere strongly, somewhere lightly. But in the end when I will decide the final value I will also put Jantzen Superes at the parallel section to get the best sound of it as possible.
btw, are the parrallel caps & resistor sucking more current, wattage, and should be V or W overated for noise or it does not care as it's ground path related ?
I cannot hear noise and such things as you describe but there is a small changing in sound even if those are parallel. The wirewound resistor sounds more natural and slightly detailed. The Mundorf green MOX was a very little bright. For cap fx. Jantzen Cross-Cap has more dynamic than an electrolyt. I tested today at the woofer. You cannot hear huge difference but you can distinguish it. Now I replaced all the resistors in the crossover for Jantzen Superes wirewound and globally the sound is calmer and more natural. Quite happy for the result.