I had an Aleph P preamp (commercial, not diy) which I sold to a friend a couple of years ago when I was laid off. He says the remote isn't working and asked if I could fix it. I do a lot of diy, and had built a diy aleph p before I bought this one. I do have the service manual as well.
Thoughts as to which part(s) might be bad and need replacement? I haven't looked at it yet.
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Thoughts as to which part(s) might be bad and need replacement? I haven't looked at it yet.
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cleaning , bad solder joints and pcb cracks
crystal too , if exists on pcb
those are regular things for remotes
I'm calling them mystic flying objects ....... considering how often we are searching for them and how often they're flying
crystal too , if exists on pcb
those are regular things for remotes
I'm calling them mystic flying objects ....... considering how often we are searching for them and how often they're flying
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
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I'd start by examining the hand-held part of the remote: check battery compartment for corrosion/leakage, make sure the IR diode is emitting, check interface of batteries and PCB in the remote for broken wires/traces from stress/dropping, remove the rubber button cover and clean the contacts.
I'd wager 90% certainty that the above will restore functionality.
I'd wager 90% certainty that the above will restore functionality.
Thanks for the thoughts all, and thanks for taking the time to weigh in Wayne. Not sure when I will get a chance to look at it, but thought I might arm myself with at least a replacement IR diode before I do.
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I am a recent new owner of an Aleph P (commercial with remote) - what a wonderful sounding preamp!
So, apologies for resurrecting an ancient thread, but has anyone experience with battery life in the remote control? It seems I have to recharge the 2 AAAs weekly - as if they are draining without being used. I am wondering if this is a quirk or there's a problem.
So, apologies for resurrecting an ancient thread, but has anyone experience with battery life in the remote control? It seems I have to recharge the 2 AAAs weekly - as if they are draining without being used. I am wondering if this is a quirk or there's a problem.
Hi Wayne,
Hmmm, so I suspect something is wrong with mine. Do you have a suggestion as to what to check? I have a DMM and could replace components if needed. Or is it best to send it back to Pass Labs?
Dan
Hmmm, so I suspect something is wrong with mine. Do you have a suggestion as to what to check? I have a DMM and could replace components if needed. Or is it best to send it back to Pass Labs?
Dan
Good idea - the eneloop rechargables are 1.2V ea, so would be 2.4V vs 3V for alkalines. i will pick up some duracells next time I go to the store (could be a while!).
Late to weigh in on this, but we do occasionally see either a bad IR transmitter or receiver.
Quick and dirty check is to look at the transmitter with a CCD camera and see if it's flashing when you push a button.
IF it is then we look to make sure the IR receiver is aligned with the F/P window and then look for output on the receiver with a scope.
As Wayne indicated 80% of the remote issues are battery box related. 10% stuck / contaminated buttons, 5%++ are IR emitters or receivers and a small percentage are aged out electrolytic caps in the remote.
Quick and dirty check is to look at the transmitter with a CCD camera and see if it's flashing when you push a button.
IF it is then we look to make sure the IR receiver is aligned with the F/P window and then look for output on the receiver with a scope.
As Wayne indicated 80% of the remote issues are battery box related. 10% stuck / contaminated buttons, 5%++ are IR emitters or receivers and a small percentage are aged out electrolytic caps in the remote.
Late to weigh in on this, but we do occasionally see either a bad IR transmitter or receiver.
Quick and dirty check is to look at the transmitter with a CCD camera and see if it's flashing when you push a button.
IF it is then we look to make sure the IR receiver is aligned with the F/P window and then look for output on the receiver with a scope.
As Wayne indicated 80% of the remote issues are battery box related. 10% stuck / contaminated buttons, 5%++ are IR emitters or receivers and a small percentage are aged out electrolytic caps in the remote.
Thanks for the reply. I looked at the current draw and it was not measurable unless I depressed a button. It seems the remote batteries are now lasting much longer, so perhaps it was a stuck button that has not become unstuck.
thanks
Dan
The mighty "Zen Mod" could certainly purchase a Pass Labs 4 button remote; provided we still had circuit boards, casework and resonators required to build.
Unfortunately we have none of the above, all critical ingredients; sorry.
Best
Kent
Unfortunately we have none of the above, all critical ingredients; sorry.
Best
Kent
bummer
just realized that I should steal one from Papa's ( along with SITs, JFets, and everything else I did snatch) and simply blame Steven and Jon


just realized that I should steal one from Papa's ( along with SITs, JFets, and everything else I did snatch) and simply blame Steven and Jon


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