Guys,
I'm trying to replicate the Meatgrinder sub, created by Amano here: 2x18" MEATGRINDER v2 (done!) - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 12
I think it's based on the Martin Audio WSX.
Unfortunately there are no plans as such so trying to do this from scratch but i really don't know how it'll work out!
I just wanna find out the purpose of closing the baffles 2/3 of the way like he has? Doesn't this restrict air flow and also wouldn't the sub start pounding on the wood?
I'm trying to replicate the Meatgrinder sub, created by Amano here: 2x18" MEATGRINDER v2 (done!) - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 12
I think it's based on the Martin Audio WSX.
Unfortunately there are no plans as such so trying to do this from scratch but i really don't know how it'll work out!
I just wanna find out the purpose of closing the baffles 2/3 of the way like he has? Doesn't this restrict air flow and also wouldn't the sub start pounding on the wood?
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The reason is to make sure the cone sees the same cross-sectional area as the path in front of it. I think it stops the cones tearing up at high volumes. The cones might well hit the baffle when pushed - that's something that must be considered in the design - I'd budget for Xlim plus a few mm to ensure the cone never ever hits the wood. One hit would mean a recone job.
Chris
Chris
excellent Chris, thanks for the explanation! to be fair the section are 18mm deep and not many subs can hit 18mm xmax! I'll get a rough sketch done and put it on here
I said Xlim - maximum one-way travel before damage.
Here's a 15" that'll do it (52mm p/p = 26mm one-way), and its not exceptional in terms of top-end PA drivers.
http://www.beyma.com/uploads/ftp/Fichas_Tecnicas/000000676.PDF
Here's a 15" that'll do it (52mm p/p = 26mm one-way), and its not exceptional in terms of top-end PA drivers.
http://www.beyma.com/uploads/ftp/Fichas_Tecnicas/000000676.PDF
yeah i know you said xlim 😉 but surely you don't want it anywhere near that as you'll be buying new driver?! anyway I'll consider it in the plans for sure.
Going past Xmax is fine if you're careful. I ran those Beymas free-air at 20Hz and got to around 30mm p/p before it sounded like the suspension was putting up some resistance, finally getting to ~45mm p/p where the cone wouldn't go any further.
Having spare excursion for peaks is useful - I know that I can drive those Beymas to Xmax and they'll sound fine, and a bit beyond won't be noticed by most people. Sometimes you just need to eek out that little bit more...
Very few PA drivers will let you hit Xlim without serious power inputs. I was putting a couple of hundred watts into those Beymas when they stopped going any further.
Chris
Having spare excursion for peaks is useful - I know that I can drive those Beymas to Xmax and they'll sound fine, and a bit beyond won't be noticed by most people. Sometimes you just need to eek out that little bit more...
Very few PA drivers will let you hit Xlim without serious power inputs. I was putting a couple of hundred watts into those Beymas when they stopped going any further.
Chris
cheers chris.
Well here's a stab at doing a 3d model of the meatgrinder, my first may I add! if anyone wants the sketchup file, I'll upload it!
Criticism's are more than welcome!
Outer dimensions are HxWxD 1200mmx600x1000
Cheers,
Sal
Well here's a stab at doing a 3d model of the meatgrinder, my first may I add! if anyone wants the sketchup file, I'll upload it!
Criticism's are more than welcome!
Outer dimensions are HxWxD 1200mmx600x1000
Cheers,
Sal
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While I like the name, it looks cool, and it has great sensitivity (as it should, dual drivers and all) I think there are several well developed designs here that I would recommend over this box.
Good job on the modelling though. Happy sawdust.
Good job on the modelling though. Happy sawdust.
A design like this is pretty much as good as it gets as far as SPL/Pack Space AFAIK. I think that's the biggest point. For the sheer output of that box, "Meatgrinder" is pretty appropriate.
The cool thing in this design is you can remove the front panel (as seen in OP) to run it in a pseudo scoop mode. It nets you even better sensitivity in a narrower passband and improved cooling. Both of which are great if you're forced to run fewer subs for some reason. Really cool way to build a configurable speaker.
The cool thing in this design is you can remove the front panel (as seen in OP) to run it in a pseudo scoop mode. It nets you even better sensitivity in a narrower passband and improved cooling. Both of which are great if you're forced to run fewer subs for some reason. Really cool way to build a configurable speaker.
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I won't disagree but the plans are AWOL and testing is weak. No way I would invest the coin and my time to find out IF it works. Also, that is one big box (48x48x24). Probably fairest to compare it to 2 TH designs here.
to be honest, the only reason i wanted to design this from scratch was firstly, as Zwiller stated, the plans don't exist and secondly, i simply wanted something to do for a few days lol.
yes this is one big box but that's not a problem for me as it'll live in the van and will wheel it in where ever i need it to. I've already build 2 TH-118's and they're great but i just wanted to do something different and I'd love a dual driver box.
Are there any good dual box designs out there i should look at?
yes this is one big box but that's not a problem for me as it'll live in the van and will wheel it in where ever i need it to. I've already build 2 TH-118's and they're great but i just wanted to do something different and I'd love a dual driver box.
Are there any good dual box designs out there i should look at?
Go big or go home as they say. Go for it man. You obviously know what you are doing and from what I can tell plenty of people want this beast developed. I didn't study the MG thread but it appears that Amano was kinda keeping things to himself...
Did you load your TH18 with the recommended drivers? (top tier stuff, 18 nlw 9601, etc) I would think a pair would keep you happy and not lusting for the MG.
I think the Lab Sub still reigns king of big SOB dual driver DIY but I cannot speak with authority. Hopefully others will chime in.
Did you load your TH18 with the recommended drivers? (top tier stuff, 18 nlw 9601, etc) I would think a pair would keep you happy and not lusting for the MG.
I think the Lab Sub still reigns king of big SOB dual driver DIY but I cannot speak with authority. Hopefully others will chime in.
I don't know if "i know what i'm doing" as such lol but I certainly love trying new things 🙂
And i think you're right, Amano did keep things to himself a bit which is fine but that's why I thought I'd share my representation of his design in case anyone wanted it. Below is a link to the sketchup file...Sorry but it's too big to attach on here.
dual 18 sub
With the TH-18, i loaded them with 18LW2400 which I'm kinda gutted I didn't load them with the 9601's but at the time my budget was quite tight, although they still sound flippin awesome!
I also ruined 1 box by forgetting to fasten the main brace correctly and thought I wouldn't need to screw in most of 1 side which was a terrible decision and resulted in some terrible vibration issues which I 95% fixed but unfortunately the box is sealed so can't get to the middle brace any more.
By the way, I'm selling this box if anyone is interested. It's still a great box and has a beautiful finish to it. And as i say, 95% of the vibration on high output has been eradicated.
As you can see from the last pic, I unfortunately had to secure the panels after the paint job was finished but its only on 1 side. no wheels or sub come with the box and It's based in central London, UK
Offers welcome!
And i think you're right, Amano did keep things to himself a bit which is fine but that's why I thought I'd share my representation of his design in case anyone wanted it. Below is a link to the sketchup file...Sorry but it's too big to attach on here.
dual 18 sub
With the TH-18, i loaded them with 18LW2400 which I'm kinda gutted I didn't load them with the 9601's but at the time my budget was quite tight, although they still sound flippin awesome!
I also ruined 1 box by forgetting to fasten the main brace correctly and thought I wouldn't need to screw in most of 1 side which was a terrible decision and resulted in some terrible vibration issues which I 95% fixed but unfortunately the box is sealed so can't get to the middle brace any more.
By the way, I'm selling this box if anyone is interested. It's still a great box and has a beautiful finish to it. And as i say, 95% of the vibration on high output has been eradicated.
As you can see from the last pic, I unfortunately had to secure the panels after the paint job was finished but its only on 1 side. no wheels or sub come with the box and It's based in central London, UK
Offers welcome!
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Hi,
I have found sometime ago the project of the meat grinder online and i have put it on my site. Can i ask to the author if there is any problem if i done that? as the project is a really good one can i ask you if you got other project that i can put online?
Cheers.
I have found sometime ago the project of the meat grinder online and i have put it on my site. Can i ask to the author if there is any problem if i done that? as the project is a really good one can i ask you if you got other project that i can put online?
Cheers.