Hi everyone
a while ago i started this thead http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/162432-building-low-end-sub-outdoor-use.html about building a low end sub.
But long story short. the projekt crached and burned...
So looking for a good sub projekt and i found this projekt Speakerplans.com
Can the mesurements be real? 103db/w
a while ago i started this thead http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/162432-building-low-end-sub-outdoor-use.html about building a low end sub.
But long story short. the projekt crached and burned...
So looking for a good sub projekt and i found this projekt Speakerplans.com
Can the mesurements be real? 103db/w
Old plans, old drivers
New PDN.15BR40 seems a better driver with more Xmax
Since the low Fs PD woofers are gone, I suspect they have had problems with those
If you want a monster sub, take a look at BMS 18N860
Expencive, but its perfect fore closed box with EQ
New PDN.15BR40 seems a better driver with more Xmax
Since the low Fs PD woofers are gone, I suspect they have had problems with those
If you want a monster sub, take a look at BMS 18N860
Expencive, but its perfect fore closed box with EQ
okay, but are the measurements real? I really need the high efficiency in the first octave, since it's for a batterypower mobile rig
The reason why i choose that plan is because i can get those drivers cheap.
Too expencive and i don't have any eq equipment for this rig
The reason why i choose that plan is because i can get those drivers cheap.
Too expencive and i don't have any eq equipment for this rig
I really need the high efficiency in the first octave, since it's for a batterypower mobile rig
Then I think you should go fore a straight 100db driver, with higher Fs
I dont think its efficiency you are looking at
Its more likely the max SPL
If you calculate a design with those low Fs pro woofers you mostly end around 95db sensitivity
But there are some genuine 100db drivers
And you can give it a small peak around 50hz with the box tuning, and gain a few "free" db
Since i'm only using small amps (100watt) for a longer batterylife
i'm looking for efficiency not max SPL, because i can't drive them to max anyway...
i'm looking for efficiency not max SPL, because i can't drive them to max anyway...
Last edited:
The PD184 has a standard sensitivity of 97Db 1W/M. As the enclosure desing is a 6th order bandpass then a healthy increase in efficiency isn't out of the question, yes it's definately possible 😀Can the mesurements be real? 103db/w
If i knew all the internal dimensions i'd model it on WinISD pro, but my guess is it'd likely be bang on the money 😉
E2A:- I just tried modelling a 6th order bandpass using the PD184. I got a lot of similar responses but i couldn't get the efficiency over 95Db 1W/M 🙄
Maybe it's a good idea to take certain things with a pinch of salt. I don't believe it could do it, though add room gain or cabin gain in a car & it'd still be monsterous.
Last edited:
The front champer is 58liter and the rear is 168 liters. minus the vents.
I did some modeling, but only ended up with 95 db/w
I did some modeling, but only ended up with 95 db/w
What I expected
You need a 15" with Fs around 50hz
A light cone will give you a 100db driver
Tune it with a small peak before rolloff around 50hz
Maybe something like Eminence Kappalite 3015 might work
Only sim/calculation will tell
I doubt the cheaper semi pro woofers will get up there
Found it at BlueAran.UK, but nowhere else to find it, all LF version
Are you aware that you can get switch mode that convert 12V to higher voltage
But I suppose its no free lunch either
http://classdaudio.com/index.php/12v-dc-switching-power-supply-500-watt-car-audio.html
You need a 15" with Fs around 50hz
A light cone will give you a 100db driver
Tune it with a small peak before rolloff around 50hz
Maybe something like Eminence Kappalite 3015 might work
Only sim/calculation will tell
I doubt the cheaper semi pro woofers will get up there
Found it at BlueAran.UK, but nowhere else to find it, all LF version
Are you aware that you can get switch mode that convert 12V to higher voltage
But I suppose its no free lunch either
http://classdaudio.com/index.php/12v-dc-switching-power-supply-500-watt-car-audio.html
A lower power driver will give you greater efficiency.
Try looking at the lower power Eminence 15" drivers
The Beta 15" can handle 100W in a bass cabinet.
http://www.eminence-speaker.com/pdf/cab-beta-15a.pdf
2 of them in a cabinet would give you a few more dB.
Should be easy to optimise a design to make the best use of your 100W.
Another point to make is to use a steep highpass filter to conserve the power.
Try looking at the lower power Eminence 15" drivers
The Beta 15" can handle 100W in a bass cabinet.
http://www.eminence-speaker.com/pdf/cab-beta-15a.pdf
2 of them in a cabinet would give you a few more dB.
Should be easy to optimise a design to make the best use of your 100W.
Another point to make is to use a steep highpass filter to conserve the power.
that amp looks great 🙂 but i allready have some pretty efficientamp, a class-G about 82% efficient.
Hmm didn't think about the highpass filter. see what i can work out...
Hmm didn't think about the highpass filter. see what i can work out...
that amp looks great 🙂
Its not an amp, its a voltage converter
It converts a single 12V battery into symmetric +/- supply with higher voltage
That way you can paralel your 12V batteries, instead of in series, and get more power
If you use car amps, its built in already
Ups i didn't see that. just saw the 500watts and something that looked like an amplifier.
(i probably should't be reading forums during class 😛)
Thats kinda cool, cause then i could use my hypex amps 🙂
But do any of you guys (or gals) have some plans that you think is better, because i don't have any experience(or know how) designing horns myself and i have read alot of threads about subs for outdoor use.
Buttom line, they all have different opinions! some of the treads are quite old and thus i would like some new plans, so i have something concrete to consider
And thank you guys for all your help 🙂
(i probably should't be reading forums during class 😛)
Thats kinda cool, cause then i could use my hypex amps 🙂
But do any of you guys (or gals) have some plans that you think is better, because i don't have any experience(or know how) designing horns myself and i have read alot of threads about subs for outdoor use.
Buttom line, they all have different opinions! some of the treads are quite old and thus i would like some new plans, so i have something concrete to consider
And thank you guys for all your help 🙂
You need a 15" with Fs around 50hz
A light cone will give you a 100db driver
Old article, but light cone will not survive in BP6.
Last edited:
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Subwoofers
- PD 184 sub bas