I did do a search on this -- but I'm a newby so my apologies if I've missed the discussion...
I have a Yamaha CA-1010, sounds wonderful but eventually the right channel cuts out. Have to turn up the volume past mid-point to reactivate it -- then it eventually fades again. Sometimes no problem whatsoever.
Used contact cleaner on all pots and switches I could find then stumbled across this problem in another forum and it was suggested that I clean the relays with contact cleaner -- but use another cleaner to remove any residue before trying it.
So, I'm trying to find the relay.
These two pictures show what I think is the relay, can someone confirm that this is the relay and that it is cleanable? I believe the cover should just pull off but don't want to try until confirmed.
Thanks so much!
I have a Yamaha CA-1010, sounds wonderful but eventually the right channel cuts out. Have to turn up the volume past mid-point to reactivate it -- then it eventually fades again. Sometimes no problem whatsoever.
Used contact cleaner on all pots and switches I could find then stumbled across this problem in another forum and it was suggested that I clean the relays with contact cleaner -- but use another cleaner to remove any residue before trying it.
So, I'm trying to find the relay.
These two pictures show what I think is the relay, can someone confirm that this is the relay and that it is cleanable? I believe the cover should just pull off but don't want to try until confirmed.
Thanks so much!
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A word of caution on contact cleaner. Use it very sparse and try to spray a second cleaner to wash away the contact cleaner; that is in the pots and contacts.
As for the relay, I use worn out sandpaper #800 or #1200 to clean the contacts if I'm not supposed to replace the relay.
/Hugo
As for the relay, I use worn out sandpaper #800 or #1200 to clean the contacts if I'm not supposed to replace the relay.
/Hugo
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Can I use rubbing alcohol after the contact cleaner or is there another classification of cleaners I should use for follow-up? Thanks!
The contact WL smells like a mixture of ether an isopropanol.
I am (for the record) not affiliated with Contact Chemie but I found the combination of both cans a perfect long time remedy for many bad contacts.
/Hugo
I am (for the record) not affiliated with Contact Chemie but I found the combination of both cans a perfect long time remedy for many bad contacts.
/Hugo
Hi yammie334,
Desolder the relay pins and remove it first. Then remove the plastic cover. Carefully remove the spring on top and do not lose it! You can pull the moving contacts out carefully, they will be attached to the base with wire. Do not damage the wire.
Spray some contact cleaner on a white business card and place the card on a flat surface near the edge. Place you fingers on the back of the contacts and move them back and forth on the card. The card should turn black where the contacts are running. Repeat on a clean part of the card. Fold the card and wet the surface with more cleaner. Move this against the stationary contacts. Inspect them to make sure they are clean. Repeat on a clean surface of the card.
Now you are ready to remove the contact cleaner. Alcohol or Electrowash will work. You want a zero residue cleaner that is safe on plastic. Once dry, reassemble in the reverse order and resolder to the PCB.
Done. If it still acts up it's new relay time. Keep in mind that the plating on the contacts is very, very thin. You don't want to scratch them.
-Chris
Desolder the relay pins and remove it first. Then remove the plastic cover. Carefully remove the spring on top and do not lose it! You can pull the moving contacts out carefully, they will be attached to the base with wire. Do not damage the wire.
Spray some contact cleaner on a white business card and place the card on a flat surface near the edge. Place you fingers on the back of the contacts and move them back and forth on the card. The card should turn black where the contacts are running. Repeat on a clean part of the card. Fold the card and wet the surface with more cleaner. Move this against the stationary contacts. Inspect them to make sure they are clean. Repeat on a clean surface of the card.
Now you are ready to remove the contact cleaner. Alcohol or Electrowash will work. You want a zero residue cleaner that is safe on plastic. Once dry, reassemble in the reverse order and resolder to the PCB.
Done. If it still acts up it's new relay time. Keep in mind that the plating on the contacts is very, very thin. You don't want to scratch them.
-Chris
Given how thin the plating is on relay contacts, I would advise against sandpaper of any sort.
Consider the possibility of a cold solder joint.
Grey
Consider the possibility of a cold solder joint.
Grey
GRollins said:
I agree in general. My 'Very Special Old Matured' however could even be used as toiletpaper. 🙂
/Hugo
The CA-1010 has two relays...one to switch biasing circuitry and transformer secondaries as the amp is switched from Class AB to Class A, and another relay for the speaker outputs, which is the one you want to deal with.
Pics are small, but looks to me like your pic is of the transformer coil switching relay, not the speaker relay. Hard to tell from the pic...
I'm gonna check my CA-2010 manual (close to the same), and see if it clarifies the matter.
Pics are small, but looks to me like your pic is of the transformer coil switching relay, not the speaker relay. Hard to tell from the pic...
I'm gonna check my CA-2010 manual (close to the same), and see if it clarifies the matter.
Appears that the relay you want is on the Power Supply C Board...visible underneath. The relay that is on the board with the big electrolytics is the one that switches the transformer secondaries for Class A operation, and that seems to be the one in your pics. Cleaning it isn't a bad thing, but it won't accomplish what you are hoping to accomplish.
Flip that puppy over and look for the other relay.
Oh...and Digikey very likely sells a brand-new relay which is a perfect replacement, and installing a new relay rather than futzing around with the old one is always the best bet.
Flip that puppy over and look for the other relay.
Oh...and Digikey very likely sells a brand-new relay which is a perfect replacement, and installing a new relay rather than futzing around with the old one is always the best bet.
Hi Hugo,
Hi Glenn,
I am ordering a new one myself after cleaning the one in my main amp. I figure the cleaning will tide me over until I place an order.
-Chris
You're a tough fella. Remind me not to ask where your WC is! 😀 I use the back of wet / dry sandpaper to "lap" heatsinks after the final sand with 600 grit.
Hi Glenn,
Yes!
I am ordering a new one myself after cleaning the one in my main amp. I figure the cleaning will tide me over until I place an order.
-Chris
Thanks to all
Thank you everyone for the advice. Much appreciated. Echo, I found the other relay underneath - thanks again. Can you tell me how long it takes in Class A mode to get noticeably hot? Might need to change both relays, or take it into a shop.
Thank you everyone for the advice. Much appreciated. Echo, I found the other relay underneath - thanks again. Can you tell me how long it takes in Class A mode to get noticeably hot? Might need to change both relays, or take it into a shop.
Heavy heatsinks with a lot of mass in those 2010's and 1010's. Might take a good 1/2 to 3/4 of an hour.
Hi Fellows,
Hi Echo,
What new Relay is from Digikey as Replacement good?
I dont know the Resistance in the Coil and what Power Ratings should be taken.
Cheers,$
Hi Echo,
What new Relay is from Digikey as Replacement good?
I dont know the Resistance in the Coil and what Power Ratings should be taken.
Cheers,$
Hi DV-65,
Everything you need to know is printed on the side of the existing relay. Technicians tend to simply read what is there, rather than try to memorize the parts used.
-Chris
Everything you need to know is printed on the side of the existing relay. Technicians tend to simply read what is there, rather than try to memorize the parts used.
-Chris
"Can I use rubbing alcohol "
Absolutely not, it leaves a residue.
Cleaning is usually a stop-gap until you secure a replacement.
Absolutely not, it leaves a residue.
Cleaning is usually a stop-gap until you secure a replacement.
Read here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=90275DV-65 said:
Yamaha used a lot of 'LY'-style relays in 12V. I do not recall the exact relay used in the 1010 or 2010.