Hi - I have a weller WE1010 and it has stopped working (screen blank) I spoke to weller and there is no spare PCBs so that's a load of materials for recycling it seems 🙁
Anyone recommend somethign that can last 10+ years rather than 4 hrs of light use. In context I have used about 1/3 - 1/2 of a reel of 500G of solder in the life of the iron.
Thoughts?
Anyone recommend somethign that can last 10+ years rather than 4 hrs of light use. In context I have used about 1/3 - 1/2 of a reel of 500G of solder in the life of the iron.
Thoughts?
That’s really disappointing. I’ve got two of the WE and a Weller WT1010, the WT is a much better soldering station, but all three have been running for years of regular use without any issues. One of the WE models had the rear power socket pop out, but I stretched the tabs and popped it back in and is still running. If I was buying again I’d still buy the best Weller I can afford… I’m surprised there’s no parts when as far as I know, they still sell that model… good luck in your search!
Thanks for the reply.
Weller said this, which of course makes no sense.
"Unfortunately the control pcb is not sold as a spare part due it’s costs."
I have seen this and thought I could just use the existing stand and iron but apparently I need the specific iron which costs more than the base unit?!?!
https://cpc.farnell.com/weller/53132399/pu81-power-unit-analogue/dp/WL00254
No dodgy irreplaceable PCBs, but at twice the price combined with a new WE1010 and put the old on in the skip, which seems such a criminal waste of the planets resources IMO.
Weller said this, which of course makes no sense.
"Unfortunately the control pcb is not sold as a spare part due it’s costs."
I have seen this and thought I could just use the existing stand and iron but apparently I need the specific iron which costs more than the base unit?!?!
https://cpc.farnell.com/weller/53132399/pu81-power-unit-analogue/dp/WL00254
No dodgy irreplaceable PCBs, but at twice the price combined with a new WE1010 and put the old on in the skip, which seems such a criminal waste of the planets resources IMO.
I have been soldering with a PINECIL v2 - Portable Mini Soldering Iron for years. Heat-up time 3 seconds, power 80W.
Regards Woka
Regards Woka
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I don't have a station, just 20w Wella with stand and it worked for 50 years already. It has no station, just a spring stand. Temp is adjusted from the side. We had endless trouble with Wella stations in our factory and started replacing them with Magnum so far proves much more reliable.
Kinda pisses you off that weller/apex take a simple thing like a soldering iron, adds crap like an lcd, which is basically eye candy and the final result is an unreliable and unrepairable iron. It’s a stupid world we live in. Where as my two earlier weller models have worked fine for many years now.
Well yeah. I had a Weller WCP-20. The one with the knob temperature adjuster and LED readout. I had it for 25 years, but used it very seldomly. The 25 years should maybe compare to 3 months at 8 hours a day. Mind you, this is a professional soldering station.
Then the heat sensor broke. It is made of unobtanium. IF I could order it, it would be about as expensive as a new soldering station.
Sure Weller does not carry those parts, it suits them well if you buy a new one from the standard production line. Much more economic than keeping a spare parts organization. And no, Wellers are not exactly so cheap you can consider them consumables. Dammit, such a high price entitles the customer to the right to repair.
So, I don't buy Weller anymore. I have to admit they make darn good soldering stations with little downsides. Now I am using a Hakko FX-888 for daily work. It is a good soldering iron as long as you don't have to adjust temperature. The engineer who designed the totally confusing and counter-intuitive user control should be sent to jail.
Then the heat sensor broke. It is made of unobtanium. IF I could order it, it would be about as expensive as a new soldering station.
Sure Weller does not carry those parts, it suits them well if you buy a new one from the standard production line. Much more economic than keeping a spare parts organization. And no, Wellers are not exactly so cheap you can consider them consumables. Dammit, such a high price entitles the customer to the right to repair.
So, I don't buy Weller anymore. I have to admit they make darn good soldering stations with little downsides. Now I am using a Hakko FX-888 for daily work. It is a good soldering iron as long as you don't have to adjust temperature. The engineer who designed the totally confusing and counter-intuitive user control should be sent to jail.
About 36yr ago, my uncle gave me a Weller WTCP that he obtained from a surplus store, where they were remaindered from Pacific Bell…
It still works great.
It still works great.
ERSA is great. I own a Weller WESD51 (granted, a fairly old model) and a ERSA i-CON nano, and ERSA is better in every way. It is more expensive, but hey, it has already served me more than 10 years.
My oldest one is a straight light sabre alike thermal spear of 120W from the 60's, capable of poking holes in concrete (when it's on temp, there's this faint tangerine glow). Several others, but all none digital. Just a magnet for temp control will suffice 20+ years at least. Avoid / omit fancy ones, cannibalising themselves. Replace tips in time.
The Weller TCP (nearly identical to the WTCP) that I bought in 1988(ish) still works. That has seen a lot of use.
I've also been very, very happy with the METCAL MX-500 that I picked up for dimes on the dollar during the 2008-09 recession. I've run at least two 500 g rolls of solder through that.
Tom
I own a Japanese Goot station. Owned it since 2004. Wouldn't part with it for anything. They're readily available, with plenty of tip options.
Hakko 926.
Approximately 30 years old.
No idea of how many rolls of solder ive used with it, lets just say lots.
Only ever replaced the tips.
Personal observation.
Unless your in a laboratory environment doing mission critical work, I see zero need for a digital display at all.
Approximately 30 years old.
No idea of how many rolls of solder ive used with it, lets just say lots.
Only ever replaced the tips.
Personal observation.
Unless your in a laboratory environment doing mission critical work, I see zero need for a digital display at all.
Put a thermal switch and bye-pass the controls.
Some are available here, used as blind temperature controllers for vertical molding machines, among other things, 5A and 15A versions exist.
It is a kind of time / thermal switch really, works well enough.
Or use an external temperature controller, with solid state relay / Thyristor if the sensor still works.
Temperature controller with auto sensing of thermo-couple type is cheap, about $20, and the SSR is like $5.
Then you are independent of iron supplier.
Using local Soldron 25W since 1988, the Toni 35W with wooden handle is from 1978.
One element in the Toni, and a couple of tips so far, Soldron has needed two heaters, a couple of tips.
They are well known brands in India, I do not have ties to the makers, they are plain without fancy controls.
Some are available here, used as blind temperature controllers for vertical molding machines, among other things, 5A and 15A versions exist.
It is a kind of time / thermal switch really, works well enough.
Or use an external temperature controller, with solid state relay / Thyristor if the sensor still works.
Temperature controller with auto sensing of thermo-couple type is cheap, about $20, and the SSR is like $5.
Then you are independent of iron supplier.
Using local Soldron 25W since 1988, the Toni 35W with wooden handle is from 1978.
One element in the Toni, and a couple of tips so far, Soldron has needed two heaters, a couple of tips.
They are well known brands in India, I do not have ties to the makers, they are plain without fancy controls.
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Have a few of those as well but destroyed a few MOSFETS despite having it connected to PE wall sockets. There is a reason that the more expensive ones work at 24V.
A person I know here uses Chinese copies, ceramic bit which does not corrode like metal bits.
They sell locally here for about 950 Rupees, 25W / 220V.
Ceramic bit seems a nice choice to me.
They sell locally here for about 950 Rupees, 25W / 220V.
Ceramic bit seems a nice choice to me.
I use a cheap a YIHUA 928D-III Ceramic 110W. It has digital temperature correction, sleep function(needed for long life of tips/elements).
Getting tips for these here is difficult but I found few ones at element14 which lasts long.
With any of tools /equipment's I start with cheap ones with good user reviews. Then try something else only if I am not satisfied with them. This strategy has served me well in the long run.
Getting tips for these here is difficult but I found few ones at element14 which lasts long.
With any of tools /equipment's I start with cheap ones with good user reviews. Then try something else only if I am not satisfied with them. This strategy has served me well in the long run.
Yeah I saw that blog and had a read but to be honest the R22 resistor story confused me a little on my quick read, I had a look at the circuit board and could not see any damage around R22 and I measured it and it was something like 1.22K in circuit. Then I thought, sod it I'll just buy a replacement board, as I would rather spend time building my Hifi components than a soldering iron station.....and then here we are.
IMO it's a poor policy to not provide spares that are easy enough to fit, and for example if the PCB was say £75 (new whole units are £150) then they would easily make money (or not loose money) on this and they would create a positive brand impression. They already have a repair parts infrastructure adding one more PCB sku into the existing 20 or so they already list is not asking much.
Having spent a lot of time advising companies on brand building, this is a great example of a pathetic policy and approach. The majority of WE1010 buyers will be first time users who may go on to bigger greater things in companies and life where this could create a strong brand association for them into the future. However this has created the opposite for me, and likewise other first time users.
idiots
Never occurred to me but who knows.
Maybe it is a good practice disconnect from the main and discharge instantly before touching static sensitive parts.🤔
Maybe it is a good practice disconnect from the main and discharge instantly before touching static sensitive parts.🤔