The simplest solution if you really want to use car amps is to use a 12v supply.
Computer supplies can go as high as about 120 amps for ATX supplies.
Server supplies (properly modified to control fans) are a good option.
Replacing the split supplies can be more difficult because there may be multiple secondaries/voltages produced by the switching supplies. Another problem may be muting and protection supply voltages. Some amps, not a big deal... Others may require a lot more effort. I couldn't find a service manual for your amps so can't give specific suggestions.
Computer supplies can go as high as about 120 amps for ATX supplies.
Server supplies (properly modified to control fans) are a good option.
Replacing the split supplies can be more difficult because there may be multiple secondaries/voltages produced by the switching supplies. Another problem may be muting and protection supply voltages. Some amps, not a big deal... Others may require a lot more effort. I couldn't find a service manual for your amps so can't give specific suggestions.
Server power supplies are good option! Fans are not loud if load is kept under 50%, run few in parallel!
Dear Lord, if I could only put forth an explanation to that one.What leads a human being towards some random path, such as...
No one mentioned batteries? Most small amp hour lead-acid batteries can deliver buku amps under transient condition; i.e. burn their terminals off, so that 20db headroom thing is taken care of. How long do you listen in a session, 24/7? Or is a couple hours more realistic? Battery can be trickle charged back up during the remaining 22 hours in a day. It also avoids any of that AC line stuff some people pay to alleviate using buffer hardware between the wall socket and their audio equipment...given you're willing to temporarily disconnect the trickle charger.
If I were going that route, I'd simply power it using a battery, appropriately sized to the time I realistically listen. Of course, that means refining that size estimate using a DC watt-hour meter, during a typical listening session. Know the actual energy consumed and all, before investing in the battery.
That's a shred more bothersome than an AC mains powersupply, but has advantages. Like not worrying about things like filter capacitors, linear vs switching (you've got switching in there already); the battery is "linear" already with arguably zero noise, zero "ground loops" - so many things just go away with your amp "floating".
Swap out the 6V6 octal for miniature 6AQ5 you will still have a 6V6 but with much lower micro-phonics.
Dear Lord, if I could only put forth an explanation to that one.
Dont' sweat it, i won't, just grab your popcorn and see the show fizzle out, as so many other brainy threads...
you know, when starting a new thread every other or third day is more the goal than the goal itself, yet ppl are dragged into the help vampire's whirlpool... mea culpa?
Üü
you could even use a small 12v battery 10ah and attach the battery charger to it while listening
would be cheapest
would be cheapest
Running your system off batteries and pure sinewave inverter is far cheaper and much more purist that inserting a PSAudio Power Regenerator. It sounds cleaner and dynamics is far better. If the battery can swing a starter motor effortlessly, think what it can do for you amplifier. And as another memeber mentioned, gone is any earth loops, hum and noise. Now you are a purist, but it comes with a cost. It is big and bulky. Especially my setup using 4 x 100 Ah batteries. Lithium is probably a better choice and holds the output more steady over time. Stepping up from 48VDC uses far lighter cables and inverter is somewhat smaller. Adding a charger on the batteries while listening defeats the point of pure clean power as the noise and rubbish the charger generates just sits on top of your otherwise clean supply. If you can run your system from only batteries and no inverter, it is as pure as it will ever get!
Last edited:
Lithium has advantages but don't try to go cheap when buying one. Only use battery packs from a reputable manufacturer that uses protected cells, preferably something like the Samsung cells. Unprotected cells have a greater risk of fire and you don't want to have to try to extinguish a lithium battery fire indoors.
Any high energy battery is dangerous, trust me. Try an accidental short between you watch and the battery terminals. Never wear jewellery when working on batteries. Never use a spanner that can reach both terminals 😱
Lithium batteries are, in general, the only batteries that will spontaneously ignite. My post was not to start an argument. It's simply something that needs to be considered in the purchase of lithium batteries. There is a YT video that shows someone simply moving a battery pack (for a scooter?) that ignites, with tragic effects. If interested, search YT for:
E-Bike Battery Explodes Inside Elevator
E-Bike Battery Explodes Inside Elevator
exploding shorted lead acid batteries are no fun either. Spreading hot acid everywhere around
Many li ion cells have single cell circuit breaker giving some sort of protection
Many li ion cells have single cell circuit breaker giving some sort of protection
Well when it explodes your circuit breaker is not going to help much. It is a chemical as well as electrical process. Like a hand grenade and fire cracker all in one.
I am curious how do you actually put this fire out, If have seen people throwing it into a pool and still burns. It must be generating oxygen while burning.
I am curious how do you actually put this fire out, If have seen people throwing it into a pool and still burns. It must be generating oxygen while burning.
You can ask your local garage for an old car battery. Get one that is just to weak to start a car, it may be still fine to power your amp for a while. They can test them.
If You're listening 90dB speakers at 2 meters you don't need much powerWhat leads a human being towards some random path, such as...
hoarding car amps.. for domestic use, that... are generally designed for 4 Ohm speakers at which it's able to put out 50 Watts at 1% thd or less (ref Alpine spec)... would translate into 25 Watts in a typical 8 Ohm load, ie a typical domestic speaker.
And to add insult to injury... or may it be labeled an amusing exploration into the exotic muses... an additional PSU is still needed.
So 6 or so car amps + PSU = 3-400 money's...!? ..yet an integrated volume control that can control all the channels is still missing, yes, smoking iou's brings satisfaction, even for the ardent audience of professor G... me included! :)
Me, I took the safe and boring route and bought a used Japanese 7.1 AV amp capable of 100w/ch into 8 Ohm for about 100 money's, and... hey, it's got a PSU and volume control (remotely operated) included, G. may offer a redeem to the pitiable frat in the mirror.. :)
I am shifting to high efficiency these days
So few clean watts will be just what I will need
Hi thank you but I don't understandWell when it explodes your circuit breaker is not going to help much. It is a chemical as well as electrical process. Like a hand grenade and fire cracker all in one.
I am curious how do you actually put this fire out, If have seen people throwing it into a pool and still burns. It must be generating oxygen while burning.
Could you elaborate what could explode ?
I am ignorant but would like to be safe
Very good advice indeedYou can ask your local garage for an old car battery. Get one that is just to weak to start a car, it may be still fine to power your amp for a while. They can test them.
Thank you very much
As I said I don't need much power
I want to use high efficiency speakers
Maybe it's more important the ability to drive low impedance
But it all depends on the speaker selection
When charging a car battery, hydrogen gas is formed. This can be very explosive when the concentration in the air becomes too high. But it is only a problem when charging the battery very fast with no adequate ventilation.Could you elaborate what could explode ?
I am ignorant but would like to be safe
Have fun and stay safe!
Hi, Gino!So few clean watts will be just what I will need
To be honest, and with due respect to those who recommended it with whom I can't agree, I don't think that the output of a ATX smps for PC that costs only 10 bucks and even delivers 20A then it will give very clean signals.
If you really need good sound, you need a linear power supply. IMO
Your car stereo will thank you too.
- Home
- General Interest
- Car Audio
- About powering a car amp with a dual linear power supply for home use