Thank You, 😎
the handles will be mounted like you can see it on the pictures, i do not see a reason to recess them completely.
i am now shape the bracket so the handles are fitting.
once the tops are finshid i want to be able to hang the speakers from the two handles, to adjust the tilt and fix the position i need a third point on one of the back sites, i am not sure where i will put this lashing point. down or up ?
the handles will be mounted like you can see it on the pictures, i do not see a reason to recess them completely.
i am now shape the bracket so the handles are fitting.
once the tops are finshid i want to be able to hang the speakers from the two handles, to adjust the tilt and fix the position i need a third point on one of the back sites, i am not sure where i will put this lashing point. down or up ?
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I would put the 3rd tie point up. Because it allows hanging vertically in case you ever want that.
here some more pics of the bracket and input terminal.
i think i will put the lashing point at the same backside as the input terminal.
terminal down --- lashing point up
so i can tilt the speaker once its hanging from the handles ...
i think i will put the lashing point at the same backside as the input terminal.
terminal down --- lashing point up
so i can tilt the speaker once its hanging from the handles ...
I drill the holes for M6 with a 6.5 wood drill completely thru, and from the backside with 8mm the same hole just 10mm deep to fit the drive-in nuts.
is it needed to seal the screws with aryl as well ? (to get it air proof)...
to get the cookies slots right on the beveled angles is not so easy, take soem practice and some re adjustments, the glue will fill the gabs where the slots got wider as intended...
more pics of cookie joins for the second speaker:
please let me know you toughs an comments,
maybe it s not as much interesting built as it could be because i stick to a plan? 🙄
hope you enjoy the thread anyhow
greetings Jonas
is it needed to seal the screws with aryl as well ? (to get it air proof)...
to get the cookies slots right on the beveled angles is not so easy, take soem practice and some re adjustments, the glue will fill the gabs where the slots got wider as intended...
more pics of cookie joins for the second speaker:
please let me know you toughs an comments,
maybe it s not as much interesting built as it could be because i stick to a plan? 🙄
hope you enjoy the thread anyhow
greetings Jonas
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Looks like a sturdy build, it is very interesting. Most likely there is less involvement because it seems like you are an experienced builder with fixed goals, you are not asking questions that need to be answered.
I am certain that if you keep posting pictures and perhaps even some results from measurements you will get a good amount of views over time, but the short term interest may not be very high.
By the way, there was a good suggestion posted previously here:
I am certain that if you keep posting pictures and perhaps even some results from measurements you will get a good amount of views over time, but the short term interest may not be very high.
By the way, there was a good suggestion posted previously here:
Your project looks very nice so far.
the first test fit, the cabinet is not yet glued, but i think its ready for it now.
should i just strip the cable and but them in this spring loaded terminal? or other method are better ?
would you crimp or solder the neutric connector what i build in the back wall of the cabinet ?
Thank You
Greetings Jonas
should i just strip the cable and but them in this spring loaded terminal? or other method are better ?
would you crimp or solder the neutric connector what i build in the back wall of the cabinet ?
Thank You
Greetings Jonas
Attachments
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i do not see the point of sinking the Handles and the input terminal, anyhow the screws are sticking out, and the end this is a PA system, and these metal hardware is not meant to be sink in my opinion.
greetings Jonas
greetings Jonas
About right.
Remember my first drivers with spring clips , wasnt sure either.
eventually got use to them , or got over it cause they always stayed in.
But would always solder and heatshrink wrap the jack plate connecters , yes.
Would do the same with spring clip connectors on speaker.
Add little curve to wire then heat shrink it in place.
Used way larger wire than needed so its got a lot to bite on
Remember my first drivers with spring clips , wasnt sure either.
eventually got use to them , or got over it cause they always stayed in.
But would always solder and heatshrink wrap the jack plate connecters , yes.
Would do the same with spring clip connectors on speaker.
Add little curve to wire then heat shrink it in place.
Used way larger wire than needed so its got a lot to bite on
The point is, it looks better. Just figured with the stellar build quality your doing it would have been done.
Example on a bass guitar cab I built:
Example on a bass guitar cab I built:
@6thplanet OK i understand what you want to say.
As i didn't sink the handles on the subwoofers and that looks just fine for me, i didn't think about sinking them on the tops, and anyhow the corners, the horn are not sunk either...
As i didn't sink the handles on the subwoofers and that looks just fine for me, i didn't think about sinking them on the tops, and anyhow the corners, the horn are not sunk either...
I sanded all piece with 120 and 150 corners and details by hand.
than i painted them all
This is powder pigment for water. CLOU: "Pulverbeize wasserlöslich"
I mixed dark red. black, and violet to what i consider an dark red/violet
in the sunlight it looks more red, in party light it seams black.
i painted it before the glue up, because where the glue seals the wood, it can not take this kind of color any more.
after glue i will and sand the extra glue away and paint on more time , before i oil them with linseedoil. that will make he color more saturatet, and the wood grain stronger visible. it will stay matt and still feels like wood, thats what i like about this technique.
than i painted them all
This is powder pigment for water. CLOU: "Pulverbeize wasserlöslich"
I mixed dark red. black, and violet to what i consider an dark red/violet
in the sunlight it looks more red, in party light it seams black.
i painted it before the glue up, because where the glue seals the wood, it can not take this kind of color any more.
after glue i will and sand the extra glue away and paint on more time , before i oil them with linseedoil. that will make he color more saturatet, and the wood grain stronger visible. it will stay matt and still feels like wood, thats what i like about this technique.
