Yes, I love adventures. I’m a noob (with a little experience) by repairing philips cd players. But I don’t care. As I said, I love adventure. I love risks.
As the seller says, the laser seems to work but cd is not spinning. That’s the only info I have. Price, 120$. Who can resist?
I checked google and I found some threads about the same issue with the same unit.
I’ll update with more info in the next days. First of all, I need the unit in front of me haha.
As the seller says, the laser seems to work but cd is not spinning. That’s the only info I have. Price, 120$. Who can resist?
I checked google and I found some threads about the same issue with the same unit.
I’ll update with more info in the next days. First of all, I need the unit in front of me haha.
Ok so the player has arrived.
Removed the chassis and first I found is bad caps on the PSU.
I removed all the caps of the psu and cleaned the board.
I noticed that a 10k potentioneter was oxidated. I removed that pot and I fount that it was adjusted to the max.
I have replacements for this pot, and in the service manual says that I have to adjust ir, but I dont know how exactly:
It says:
ADJUST +2
5.0V +- 50mv
But I dont understand…. 5V between what points??? Between R3456??
Also I found 4 voltage regulators in the PSU board. The legs of this regulators are oxidated just a little. One of them has the grip broken. May I suppose that the regulators are dead?
Removed the chassis and first I found is bad caps on the PSU.
I removed all the caps of the psu and cleaned the board.
I noticed that a 10k potentioneter was oxidated. I removed that pot and I fount that it was adjusted to the max.
I have replacements for this pot, and in the service manual says that I have to adjust ir, but I dont know how exactly:
It says:
ADJUST +2
5.0V +- 50mv
But I dont understand…. 5V between what points??? Between R3456??
Also I found 4 voltage regulators in the PSU board. The legs of this regulators are oxidated just a little. One of them has the grip broken. May I suppose that the regulators are dead?
The picture of the board doesn't look good tbh. That kind of 'oxidation' and corrosion is typical of spillage and often can be cat pee and the like. It is something I've seen countless times as my time as a bench tech.
The preset simply sets the output of the LM317 regulator to 5 volts which is the voltage across C2475.
The preset simply sets the output of the LM317 regulator to 5 volts which is the voltage across C2475.
Thanks bro.
I took that picture before cleaning the board.
Yes, that oxidation is not good.
I think the best idea is to buy new caps, new voltage regulators, and resistors that also had oxidation.
And then, power on and cross fingers. If still not working, measure voltages.
I only found oxidation in this area on the picture. The rest of the board is ok. So I think that a good start point is to change all oxidated components and also ALL caps in this board.
Other boards like decoder and cdm 0 looks fine. Like new.
I took that picture before cleaning the board.
Yes, that oxidation is not good.
I think the best idea is to buy new caps, new voltage regulators, and resistors that also had oxidation.
And then, power on and cross fingers. If still not working, measure voltages.
I only found oxidation in this area on the picture. The rest of the board is ok. So I think that a good start point is to change all oxidated components and also ALL caps in this board.
Other boards like decoder and cdm 0 looks fine. Like new.
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I also noticed this bridge:
I dont know if this is a factory soldering or it’s a repair.
Checking the service manual, this 2 diodes are not bridged:
Should I remove that bridge?
I dont know if this is a factory soldering or it’s a repair.
Checking the service manual, this 2 diodes are not bridged:
Should I remove that bridge?
Its hard to say. What is that white/silver thing connected to the diode and going to what looks like the mains transformer?
This looks like a player with a lot of hidden history to me.
This looks like a player with a lot of hidden history to me.
Its a cotton fiber. From the cloth I’m using to clean the board.
I bought all the components. Now Im gonna desolder all faulty/oxidated components, clean again the board, and solder the new components.
I bought also the 5 voltage regulators. Gonna change it because legs are oxidated.
Yes, I think this player has a lot of history. But its a good entertainment to me.
If I can revive it, I’ll have a party 🥳🥳
Solder side is OK
1 question..... I found a broken diode (1N5060)
I have diodes labeled as (BY255). Can it be a good substitute to the 1N5060?
Changed the diode and seems that it's working well (the diode i mean).
After changing all the components, player turns on, but still not working.
Laser is not lighting.
Checked voltages and everything is ok EXCEPT two terminals: -7v and -18v
-7v is giving -1,3V
-18v is giving -16v
Cheched voltage on the voltage regulators and 2 of them are not working well (obvious). This 2 regulators are negative regulators (-7v)
That's why I bought all 5 regulators in the store. Next step is to change all the regulators, apply new thermal paste.
I followed the traces from -7v terminal on the PSU AAAAAAANDDDDDDDD this -7v is the voltage that goes to the Laser circuit:
So, I still have hope.
Time to stop. I'm in Madrid on a trip (because my wife is in exams and I'm in the hotel repairing this f*cking player).
My wife finished the exams, son it's time to stop repairing, so It's time to go downtown for something to eat.
After changing all the components, player turns on, but still not working.
Laser is not lighting.
Checked voltages and everything is ok EXCEPT two terminals: -7v and -18v
-7v is giving -1,3V
-18v is giving -16v
Cheched voltage on the voltage regulators and 2 of them are not working well (obvious). This 2 regulators are negative regulators (-7v)
That's why I bought all 5 regulators in the store. Next step is to change all the regulators, apply new thermal paste.
I followed the traces from -7v terminal on the PSU AAAAAAANDDDDDDDD this -7v is the voltage that goes to the Laser circuit:
So, I still have hope.
Time to stop. I'm in Madrid on a trip (because my wife is in exams and I'm in the hotel repairing this f*cking player).
My wife finished the exams, son it's time to stop repairing, so It's time to go downtown for something to eat.
You have given my son (Joe) the enthusiasm to have a look at our CD 202. It seems to have a power on problem (it may have others once on). Here’s ours!
I wonder if you have seen this website, lots of good pictures on it which may be of assistance.
https://www.bramjacobse.nl/wordpress/?p=11355
Regards.
I wonder if you have seen this website, lots of good pictures on it which may be of assistance.
https://www.bramjacobse.nl/wordpress/?p=11355
Regards.
Nice!!!!
I’m so happy to know that!!!!
Thanks for the link. It’s a great help.
The diode I changed is in the same circuit of the -7v… so I dont know if the fault is the diode or de voltage regulator.
I can't wait to get home to continue working on the player.
I noticed that the decoder board is placed into a “cage”… but I dont know how to remove it to access the board.
Wel well.... I'm progressing.
I changed the voltage regulator that manages the laser, and when I power on the unit, still not working. BUT now, when I turn off the unit, the motor spins just a little and the laser emits a red light (very short time) and then turn off.
I changed the voltage regulator that manages the laser, and when I power on the unit, still not working. BUT now, when I turn off the unit, the motor spins just a little and the laser emits a red light (very short time) and then turn off.
Most of these have burned out lasers. If you think your laser is OK, it may be an option to get another, clean, good looking player and put in the whole drive. There are quite some on eBay. I would not have started any restoration on such a rotten chassis tbh.
It is compareable to old cars, if you find one in a barn with a blown engine, chances are good you can use all other components except for the engine. Combine it with an engine from another wreck and you are fine.
It is compareable to old cars, if you find one in a barn with a blown engine, chances are good you can use all other components except for the engine. Combine it with an engine from another wreck and you are fine.
I think not in my case. The laser works.
Before working on this player, no light from laser and no motor spinning. Now the laser is emiting a beautiful red light and motor is spinning. Obviously its trying to read the cd but its not reading the TOC.
As Mooly said, first step is getting all the supplies correct. There is only one voltage to correct (-18v) cuz its giving only -14v
I think I can revive this player. I have a hunch. I don’t care how much time I spend.
Work in progress…
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The BY255 I used is working well. This diode is placed into the -7v circuit. And all voltages in this place of the board are correct. So the diode is working.
The normal routine at these players is the following:
Insert disc or push Play button, swing arm swings to the TOC area, focus lens moves up/down several times and laser emits light, if focus found on disc only then the turntable motor starts rotating and TOC is read, motor stops and display shows the total playing time and total number of tracks.
Don't worry if the motor does not rotate. It is the sign of focus not found.
Insert disc or push Play button, swing arm swings to the TOC area, focus lens moves up/down several times and laser emits light, if focus found on disc only then the turntable motor starts rotating and TOC is read, motor stops and display shows the total playing time and total number of tracks.
Don't worry if the motor does not rotate. It is the sign of focus not found.