Thanks for noting this.
We usually dont have much on the table. Maybe a candle, but we dont light it up.
Ill try to get more reading using REW to see if the table move or shake too much and I have to move the table on the side of the couch if the response would make sense.
Haha. It was a joke. There is a 12" subwoofer entry in this "table" of HF drivers. Sorry to take your time, was just trying to give a laugh. 😂
What would be really trick is a bunch of neo magnets embedded opposite polarity between the top of the cabinet and the "tabletop". The cabinet could extend up to slightly below the top of the tabletop, and some less powerful neo magnets could be embedded laterally so as to keep it centered. So you would have a hovering and decoupled surface.
oh god!! hahaha English is not my first language, and I didnt even think about google doc as a ''table'' hahahahah good one!
he meant like having the table top hovering over the sealed box. in order to not have the table top vibrate with low frequency.
Exactly. and in terms of a simpler solution, you could use drawer liner and coasters / table top trays to get close to the same thing.
I've built enclosures from MDF and from Birch, with both having some fiberglass in some cases. The box I constructed from birch was by far the most reinforced and braced and while I can't say I had an identical MDF enclosure of the same design, I thought the birch was more prone to cabinet flex than if I had made it from MDF.
But if you have the coasters for candles or drinks, in addition to a generously dimensioned table top tray (classy, made of wood, not some TV dinner thing) underside's lined with the same sort of sticky, non-slip drawer liner, I would expect it to be usable.. I'd still opt for a run at the magnetically levitated version though. Would be very cool.
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I don’t know why not.
I remember trying to model it in winisd, but can’t remember the outcome.
Why would the box be half the size?
Will have to google that one out. I’m not familiar with this.
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For people interested:
http://jazzman-esl-page.blogspot.com/2011/01/ripole-subs-are-underway.html?m=1
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Its just a function of the design. You only have one speaker radiating sound. You also would be down -3 dB if you had the same impedance. But by wiring the subs (single) voicecoils in parallel, you gain that +3dB back. And at half the enclosure volume. I've never built one, something tells me you'd probably be down a little more than -3 dB just due to the more difficult construction. But with half the requisite enclosure volume, it can make sense for tight spaces.
From his description, it’s not very suited for HT, but seems very smooth for music.
Maybe I got what isobaric is wrong.
Isn’t when the 2 speaker face each other inside a box?
I don’t understand how you have only one driver radiating?
Like I said, I have a lot to learn still! Haha
2 UM15's or even 18's will be plenty, use the KISS theorem and go sealed you have enough amp and space even for the 18's to have an awesome low roll off.
I would make the table free standing over the sub cabinet, hide the subs behind some nice grill cloth
I would make the table free standing over the sub cabinet, hide the subs behind some nice grill cloth
So a box under a “conventional” table.
Gotcha.
Yup. Got plenty of power.
What stop me from using um18:
1- driver price if going for 2 drivers, which is recommanded in order to keep vibration low.
2- limited by the table size. 18’s doesn’t quite fit into both end pannel of the table.
I remember the Decware Audio site having plans for a two-driver cabinet. Again, I forget what it is called, but it is a horn loaded design of a size that would make a great coffee table because it lays on its side. IME horn loaded designs can have the punch needed for HT.