I Finally got it stuck together and it sounds better than I hoped. I ran it for 7 hours on a 18v 3ah battery and it wasn't dead yet. i was very happy with that. Now i would like to get more volume out of it....
The photo is there, what speaker did you use?Not sure why this pic didnt attach as well..
what are you using as a mic pre-amp? and i'll second weltersys in asking what speaker your using?
Tantalizing picture, but it tells us nothing.View attachment 1075279
I Finally got it stuck together and it sounds better than I hoped. I ran it for 7 hours on a 18v 3ah battery and it wasn't dead yet. i was very happy with that. Now i would like to get more volume out of it....
Please describe what you are using, at least some block diagram.
So far all I can see is a Hollywood Movie terrorist bomb prop, such as seen in:
AT LEAST tell us which wire to cut: the red one or the green one? 😉
🙂 Here you goTantalizing picture, but it tells us nothing.
Please describe what you are using, at least some block diagram.
So far all I can see is a Hollywood Movie terrorist bomb prop, such as seen in:
AT LEAST tell us which wire to cut: the red one or the green one? 😉
Attachments
I am using a karaoke board for the preamp and a Vistaton BG17-8 6.5" driver.what are you using as a mic pre-amp? and i'll second weltersys in asking what speaker your using?
So I have a question. Right now, I only have a volume knob on the pre-amp and nothing on the amp. Does that mean the amp is putting out the max volume, or will I gain volume if I put one on the amp yet? How would I get more volume if the amp is up against already? Higher wattage amp?
"Volume" knobs are only gain knobs.
If speaking into microphone at normal voice level and distance (a couple inches tops) you can get amp into clipping/distorting, that´s it, all the maximum volume you can get.
Adding gain will only clip earlier (say "on 2" instead of "on 7") and probably feedback earlier but not "louder"
Power? ... what does your current amp put out into 8 ohm?
Visaton BG17 only stands 40W RMS, with the ocassional 60W burst. (which they sometimes call Peak Power" 🙄
If speaking into microphone at normal voice level and distance (a couple inches tops) you can get amp into clipping/distorting, that´s it, all the maximum volume you can get.
Adding gain will only clip earlier (say "on 2" instead of "on 7") and probably feedback earlier but not "louder"
Power? ... what does your current amp put out into 8 ohm?
Visaton BG17 only stands 40W RMS, with the ocassional 60W burst. (which they sometimes call Peak Power" 🙄
Makes sense
My issue is when I'm using a headset mic I can't turn it loud enough to even get feedback whereas with a handheld if I turn it to just under the point I get feedback I'm at about 3/4 vol.
I am using a 100watt amp at 2 ohms
am I correct in saying that that would be about the same as a 25watt amp @ 8ohms?
if any of this sounds like I am clueless when it comes to speakers that is because I kinda am🙁
My issue is when I'm using a headset mic I can't turn it loud enough to even get feedback whereas with a handheld if I turn it to just under the point I get feedback I'm at about 3/4 vol.
I am using a 100watt amp at 2 ohms
am I correct in saying that that would be about the same as a 25watt amp @ 8ohms?
if any of this sounds like I am clueless when it comes to speakers that is because I kinda am🙁
Ok.
Clearly your handheld (which I guess is a radio microphone) puts out way more than the headset,so it would make sense to build/add a fixed gain stage for it alone.
Say ... 5X? .... 10X? .... so both mikes roughly match level/sensitivity.
100W into 2 ohm generally means somewhat more than plain "25% of the full power into 2 ohms", say 30W, maybe 35 ; in any case not a deal breaker.
Post a direct link to your "100-2" power amp, so we can estimate better.
Or ... what is the supply voltage?
I guess you are running it on battery?
Clearly your handheld (which I guess is a radio microphone) puts out way more than the headset,so it would make sense to build/add a fixed gain stage for it alone.
Say ... 5X? .... 10X? .... so both mikes roughly match level/sensitivity.
100W into 2 ohm generally means somewhat more than plain "25% of the full power into 2 ohms", say 30W, maybe 35 ; in any case not a deal breaker.
Post a direct link to your "100-2" power amp, so we can estimate better.
Or ... what is the supply voltage?
I guess you are running it on battery?
https://www.parts-express.com/WONDOM-AA-AB31184-100W-Mono-Amp-Board-320-3341
I am running it off of a 18v Milwaukee battery
I am running it off of a 18v Milwaukee battery
yes it is an 8ohmisn't the BG 17 an 8 ohm driver?
i may be wrong but with an 8 ohm load i would guess your output level would be 25 watts with that amp.
The research I was doing that is about what I was coming up with.
Thanks God we have excellent data from TI about TPA3116 (why am I not surprised? 😉 )
I am not exactly a fan of 10% rating for SS amplifiers where it actually means buzzy clipping,VERY easy to hear, no scopes needed 🙄 while 1% means barely visible thickening of scope trace at peaks just before flat top clipping but since everybody uses it, I will too 🙄
With solid 18V (power drill batteries are stiff) you have some 18/24W into 8 ohm (turk182 was spot on) or 35/43W into 4 ohm.
Which gives me an idea: power output into 8 ohm is good enough for the job (you´ve already proven it), besides you use this powered speaker for voice only (maybe very low level background music) but when/if you need more, you can add an extra speaker in parallel.
You may mount it on its own little cabinet so you plug it into the main amp (add an extra floating/insulated/plastic speaker out jack) so you can put it some 2 to 4 meters away to spread sound, OR cut a hole on the side for it.
You will end with an excellent spread cabinet with both speakers beaming at 90 degrees from each other.
I am not exactly a fan of 10% rating for SS amplifiers where it actually means buzzy clipping,VERY easy to hear, no scopes needed 🙄 while 1% means barely visible thickening of scope trace at peaks just before flat top clipping but since everybody uses it, I will too 🙄
With solid 18V (power drill batteries are stiff) you have some 18/24W into 8 ohm (turk182 was spot on) or 35/43W into 4 ohm.
Which gives me an idea: power output into 8 ohm is good enough for the job (you´ve already proven it), besides you use this powered speaker for voice only (maybe very low level background music) but when/if you need more, you can add an extra speaker in parallel.
You may mount it on its own little cabinet so you plug it into the main amp (add an extra floating/insulated/plastic speaker out jack) so you can put it some 2 to 4 meters away to spread sound, OR cut a hole on the side for it.
You will end with an excellent spread cabinet with both speakers beaming at 90 degrees from each other.
Thanks for the info.Thanks God we have excellent data from TI about TPA3116 (why am I not surprised? 😉 )
View attachment 1088071
I am not exactly a fan of 10% rating for SS amplifiers where it actually means buzzy clipping,VERY easy to hear, no scopes needed 🙄 while 1% means barely visible thickening of scope trace at peaks just before flat top clipping but since everybody uses it, I will too 🙄
With solid 18V (power drill batteries are stiff) you have some 18/24W into 8 ohm (turk182 was spot on) or 35/43W into 4 ohm.
Which gives me an idea: power output into 8 ohm is good enough for the job (you´ve already proven it), besides you use this powered speaker for voice only (maybe very low level background music) but when/if you need more, you can add an extra speaker in parallel.
You may mount it on its own little cabinet so you plug it into the main amp (add an extra floating/insulated/plastic speaker out jack) so you can put it some 2 to 4 meters away to spread sound, OR cut a hole on the side for it.
You will end with an excellent spread cabinet with both speakers beaming at 90 degrees from each other.
This speaker will be to carry around so the 2 speaker idea while a great idea is out.
Basically what I am hearing is in order to get more sound from a single speaker I would have to get a higher wattage amp that would get closer to the 40w that the driver is rated for.
This whole project has been quite the learning experience😊
Ok.
You don´t have an "amp problem" but a "Battery" one.
You are already pulling as much as possible from a 18V supply. modern Class D amps are pretty efficient beasts.
Take care.
You don´t have an "amp problem" but a "Battery" one.
You are already pulling as much as possible from a 18V supply. modern Class D amps are pretty efficient beasts.
Take care.
😒not what I wanted to hear, but thanks!Ok.
You don´t have an "amp problem" but a "Battery" one.
You are already pulling as much as possible from a 18V supply. modern Class D amps are pretty efficient beasts.
Take care.
well it goes back to my original suggestion of finding the most efficient/sensitive loudspeaker you can find...means less watts in for Spl out
this is rated at 99db 1w/1m versus the 93db 1w/1m of the BG17 which do you think will be louder...??
not to mention that as a horn it's going to put sound where you want it versus the wasted off axis energy from a direct radiator in a box...
this is rated at 99db 1w/1m versus the 93db 1w/1m of the BG17 which do you think will be louder...??
not to mention that as a horn it's going to put sound where you want it versus the wasted off axis energy from a direct radiator in a box...
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