Those look great, I am a huge fan of the old Sunfire subs which were this style. But they died. This sub is in the tower and I just need a raw driver.
So this is the current response of the system. I would assume that the large dips and peaks are due to the mid/woofer playing the same range? I'm going to do some measuring today.
It gets really bad in the lower range, the sub is crossed at 125 and the high at 4k. So maybe the mids are fighting? I'll switch back and forth between the two and take some measurements.
edit: I just noticed there were 2 lines on there, the green one is with some 1" denim insulation taped to the front! Super fancy, I know. I was trying to get rid of some of those dips, it did ok.
It gets really bad in the lower range, the sub is crossed at 125 and the high at 4k. So maybe the mids are fighting? I'll switch back and forth between the two and take some measurements.
edit: I just noticed there were 2 lines on there, the green one is with some 1" denim insulation taped to the front! Super fancy, I know. I was trying to get rid of some of those dips, it did ok.
My thoughts exactly... A good 3-way with a modest size woofer, 8" or so, crossed to a pair of subs at ~ 100 Hz... That is the perfect 4-way system.
You could do that, but it would have to be powered by one of their plate amps for their "servo" function. They don't have a 10" driver though.
Just did some more tweaking between the mid and midbass, the mid is looking pretty good but whats the deal with the midbass? Its play 80- 285 and its all over the place! The mid has settled down for the most part. 4k xover for mid/tweeter for reference.
What can I do about that back and forth? The enclosure is basically a box, though I do have dampening material in there. What are some good tips/tricks for eliminating peaks and dips every 25hz!
What can I do about that back and forth? The enclosure is basically a box, though I do have dampening material in there. What are some good tips/tricks for eliminating peaks and dips every 25hz!
Those peak/dips are reflections in the room. Looks like you use the defaut 500ms gating and 1/24 smoothing. Actually your response looks pretty good, bass level is low (no baffle loss compensation?) Speaker and mic placement in the room are very tricky if one wants to get good measurements below 500Hz.
How would you gate and position the mic and cabinet for sub 500 hz measurements ? 5ms. 1 cm mic near the woof all on the floor when in room?
I haven’t heard of baffle loss compensation, can you elaborate? What’s a good way to test 80-500 then?
Sorry, I'm not at home, can't give good answer. Bass relative level shows best with MMM, please study internet with google. Same with baffle gain/loss. Down to basics...
I dont think in a domestic setting someone need a 4 way.
I suggest for OP to try the legendary Audax pr170mo mid.
I suggest for OP to try the legendary Audax pr170mo mid.
There's no way a 4" mid will keep up fully excursion and SPL wise with a 10" crossed in the low 300s / 2nd order. You need a dedicated midbass to get the most from the design dynamically.
A good 8" in a 3.5 way would do the trick. I'd cross the 8" midnass at about 500 LR2 to the 4" mids and put the 10s in their own cabs. Its going to depend where you put the whole thing in your listening space to determine the best freq to cross the sub to the small 3 way, maybe 80 - 100 hz in most cases. Make sure your midbass has a decent size VC (at least 35mm dia) to avoid power compression in a smaller sealed box without airflow to it.
A good 8" in a 3.5 way would do the trick. I'd cross the 8" midnass at about 500 LR2 to the 4" mids and put the 10s in their own cabs. Its going to depend where you put the whole thing in your listening space to determine the best freq to cross the sub to the small 3 way, maybe 80 - 100 hz in most cases. Make sure your midbass has a decent size VC (at least 35mm dia) to avoid power compression in a smaller sealed box without airflow to it.
That audax has almost no excursion to keep up crossed low enough to that 10". Good driver used the right way, but thats usually crossed at 450 ish or higher.
try it
youll be happily surprised
I cross mine 1st order at 325hz without any issues.
what s the intended SPL for your system?
whats the point of using a 8'' if its intended to be played only down to 100hz? a better solution is let the 8'' roll off naturally somewhere around 50hz and add in subs.
isnt there a rule that a XO at 100hz is generally a big no no?
The crossover point was determined by the drivers natural rolloff. I didn't arbitrarily chose a frequency, as for the 100hz I am not aware of that rule. The 8" is to augment the 4" mid as it has zero midbass. There is currently a 6" that does pretty good but I am going to try the 8" to get more kick.
I listen pretty loud sometimes. I usually have excursion limiting issies with an average xmax capable 6-7" mid driver playing lower than 350 LR2 keeping up with a 15" LF driver. That audax crossed 325Hz 1st order would really limit spl, probably to low 100s dB. I need 10dB headroom on top of that for my needs.