Well-observed; given only a little thought it surprises me how very few even question this conventional layout, which is pretty much the opposite of what is required. A pair of coaxials, one above and one below the screen as a mono source provides better horizontal dispersion.
I don't have a multichannel system, so cannot confirm, but it would seem likely. If you have a soundcard or measuring mic, record some different center channel material into a normal 2-way, then analyse the sweeps. Another driver layout you could try is just the one woofer, like the ATC SCM25A or Ben's recent little Purveyor. It just won't look so symmetrical with just the one, but otherwise this could be a neat solution.
Also, meh, Dolby Atmos specs pdf calls for surround speaker capabilities of 40hz - 16khz, so with a center cutoff of 300hz being completely out of bounds, plus the 12MU at lowest distortion not much lower than 1khz, yeah a 2-way 12MU isn't going to work.
Looking up older 5.1 specs confirms only the LFE channel has a cap of 120hz. All other channels including the center are expected to support full range material to 3hz to 20khz.
Looking up older 5.1 specs confirms only the LFE channel has a cap of 120hz. All other channels including the center are expected to support full range material to 3hz to 20khz.
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Or Better Call Saul?
Well, the height of the RAAL + 12MU in a W, TM layout should allow a 10" or 12" woofer! I guess the 18WU would work fine, too, but just look even weirder. Essentially, having to use the RAAL in a center makes everything look weird. Maybe sell one of those and use the smaller D2004/D3004 6020 + 12MU + 2 x 18WU? #symmetrical
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Probably the easiest way to do it is disconnect the single digital coax going between the Oppo BDP105D and the active crossover and connect in the C channel from the 7 analog outputs on the Oppo so all I get is centre channel, then all I have to do is try it with and without the woofer connected.
Except I have 9 RAAL tweeters already worth about $9,000 AUD with taxes and shipping, and the Scanspeak tweeters are massively inferior. Otherwise a great idea... I don't mind it looking weird as I have an extremely understanding wife, so looks are not a constraint, but I am looking to get the best performance out of what I have.
Beats my paint cut and paste skills... I have a CNC so I am not constrained by a rectangle box. Maybe I could use unusual to create something interesting.
Would that be the optimal placement or would you go higher with the tweeter?
Acoustically, I'm not informed enough to answer on the optimal vertical alignment of the 18WUs, other than trying to bring the acoustic centers as close as possible in relation to the 12MU. I suppose the 18Ws should be level on the x axis, but then it would look even weirder and you may as well consider 12"s instead. Jeez.
Look at these stranger things:
https://www.wilsonaudio.com/products/mezzo/mezzo-cs - it's shown as being its own coffee table, firing upwards from the floor with a wall-mounted display.
And I guess Magico and ATC seem to just place the woofers equidistant from the tweeter and mid, expecting placement on a rack/table/cabinet.
https://www.magicoaudio.com/acc
https://atc.audio/hi-fi/loudspeakers/centers/c6c/
https://www.wilsonaudio.com/products/mezzo/mezzo-cs - it's shown as being its own coffee table, firing upwards from the floor with a wall-mounted display.
And I guess Magico and ATC seem to just place the woofers equidistant from the tweeter and mid, expecting placement on a rack/table/cabinet.
https://www.magicoaudio.com/acc
https://atc.audio/hi-fi/loudspeakers/centers/c6c/
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I was thinking something along these lines https://www.wilsonaudio.com/products/mezzo/mezzo-cs#nanogallery/productImageGallery/0/3
I'm not scared of different.
The RAAL monopoles don't require a cavity because they are sealed on the back so that does give some placement options.
I'm not scared of different.
The RAAL monopoles don't require a cavity because they are sealed on the back so that does give some placement options.
Here's a first attempt...
Unfortunately they don't do anything larger than the 18WU in the Illuminator series.
Unfortunately they don't do anything larger than the 18WU in the Illuminator series.
Hi all,
the ribbon looks to be 14cm long, this will beam the highs to a quite narrow vertical window from few kilohertz up. Perhaps not too critical for voice but it is good to know its gonna be very different sound than mains if tweeter is not at same height. I'd try get the tweeter at ear level, to same height as main left and right speaker, to avoid this problem. In which case it would be logical to build 3 identical speakers for front LCR channels.
Illustration of ideal 140mm x 14mm ribbon floating in space. Top octave drops ~6db if tweeter is 20cm below ear level at 3 meter listening distance, compared to when its at ear level. This also means every listener in the theater should be about at same height otherwise the highs droop for those who aren't. Tilting might help but then the distance affects more, if one row of listeners this might work just fine.
Whether any of this matters too much is somewhat on age of the hearing system, ability to hear highs and whether it matters. I'd say it matters so plan it carefully. There is always option to sell the drivers and buy something else if these don't make suitable system for your situation.
the ribbon looks to be 14cm long, this will beam the highs to a quite narrow vertical window from few kilohertz up. Perhaps not too critical for voice but it is good to know its gonna be very different sound than mains if tweeter is not at same height. I'd try get the tweeter at ear level, to same height as main left and right speaker, to avoid this problem. In which case it would be logical to build 3 identical speakers for front LCR channels.
Illustration of ideal 140mm x 14mm ribbon floating in space. Top octave drops ~6db if tweeter is 20cm below ear level at 3 meter listening distance, compared to when its at ear level. This also means every listener in the theater should be about at same height otherwise the highs droop for those who aren't. Tilting might help but then the distance affects more, if one row of listeners this might work just fine.
Whether any of this matters too much is somewhat on age of the hearing system, ability to hear highs and whether it matters. I'd say it matters so plan it carefully. There is always option to sell the drivers and buy something else if these don't make suitable system for your situation.
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Cool analysis. From the Wilson photo above, does putting the center on the floor but tilting it back allow them to equalize the listening distance of all drivers from their floorstanding mains? Or would you still forsee a problem?
@Silent Screamer Why not replicate the existing design with its Cubism/tie-fighter look between the tweeter and woofers? Oh, and I forgot they implement that strange gimbal thing to slide the tweeter back and forth for offset. Another idea I have is line up the 18WUs with the 12MU and put your ports above each 18W in the otherwise free space.
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I suggest you take only one 12MU and find a sealed cabinet of couple of litres for it, stuff it moderately, and take a listen to it without any filters. Some 100 Hz/-3dB is expected. They have good 3mm of linear excursion in each direction.
I believe the foam pads are there to help with the vertical beaming, how they do this I don't know.
While it would be most optimal to build three identical speakers that won't be possible with a massive screen. If everything goes to plan with HT, I would be looking for a screen in the vicinity of 150". I could strike a compromise of lifting it partially off the ground, and partially tilting it back to achieve better tweeter alignment.
As I approach (gasp 60) my hearing is not what it once was with around 13kHz now being my upper hearing. There is only my wife and I that will be watching a movie 99.999% of the time, so there won't be any back seats to the HT room. Just a couple of chairs close together.