Hello,
I do believe in differences between cables and even between ethernet cables there are differences i guess.
I think there must be differences between connectors too. I like the way the Telegartner and Keystone are constructed.
What would be a nice ethernet cable '' soundwize '' to make my own cables between Roon Nucleus, modem and Etherregen switch.
Greetings, eduard
I do believe in differences between cables and even between ethernet cables there are differences i guess.
I think there must be differences between connectors too. I like the way the Telegartner and Keystone are constructed.
What would be a nice ethernet cable '' soundwize '' to make my own cables between Roon Nucleus, modem and Etherregen switch.
Greetings, eduard
Use a standard quality shielded wire, good connectors. Check the earthing of all electrical equipment that requires earthing.
It is a digital signal, so sound wise the difference comes from your DAC, or computer program.
Wire or connectors are having no effect on the analog signal, as the sound is generated outside, and if you have Class D, that is a different game totally.
You could go wireless too, then no wires are needed.
Try Audacity, or Winamp, or any other player.
It is a digital signal, so sound wise the difference comes from your DAC, or computer program.
Wire or connectors are having no effect on the analog signal, as the sound is generated outside, and if you have Class D, that is a different game totally.
You could go wireless too, then no wires are needed.
Try Audacity, or Winamp, or any other player.
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That's because of the hub Nigel, not the cable. Many hubs don't properly recognise all sorts of peripherals.
To the OP, yes, there are differences. A Cat 5 cable goes up to 100mbps only and the newest CAT 7 specifications go all the way up to 10gbps. The cables and connectors get upgraded as you go up the line, but all are backward compatible and will fall back to the speed of the slowest device in the chain.
Ethernet transmission is error-checked. There is zero possibility of data corruption in normal operating conditions. Poorly built cables can cause issues, but most have no problems at all. A few devices use Ethernet connectors for other purposes (such as I2S on some DACs) and those formats are unstandardised and unrecognised by any sort of formal body.
To make your own Ethernet cables, you need a good crimper, general purpose plugs and a suitable length of wire. If the wire is too short, it won't be able to connect your equipment together. There is no other consideration involved. I routinely transfer hundreds of gigabytes of data at 800MB/s and not had even one corruption in twenty years, so I'm unsure what you mean to achieve by making your own.
In most cases the weakest link is the crimped connection itself, so if you are trying to do this by hand you are increasing the possibility of failure.
To the OP, yes, there are differences. A Cat 5 cable goes up to 100mbps only and the newest CAT 7 specifications go all the way up to 10gbps. The cables and connectors get upgraded as you go up the line, but all are backward compatible and will fall back to the speed of the slowest device in the chain.
Ethernet transmission is error-checked. There is zero possibility of data corruption in normal operating conditions. Poorly built cables can cause issues, but most have no problems at all. A few devices use Ethernet connectors for other purposes (such as I2S on some DACs) and those formats are unstandardised and unrecognised by any sort of formal body.
To make your own Ethernet cables, you need a good crimper, general purpose plugs and a suitable length of wire. If the wire is too short, it won't be able to connect your equipment together. There is no other consideration involved. I routinely transfer hundreds of gigabytes of data at 800MB/s and not had even one corruption in twenty years, so I'm unsure what you mean to achieve by making your own.
In most cases the weakest link is the crimped connection itself, so if you are trying to do this by hand you are increasing the possibility of failure.
In a USB hub, there is a chip controlling the data transfer, and if it a slow chip, which is common, you have a problem.
Also check the shield continuity, plug to plug.
If you have a USB 3.0 device plugged into a corroded socket on a 1.0 standard USB, then too you have an issue.
That is why I told the OP to use good quality cables, or go wireless.
Also check the shield continuity, plug to plug.
If you have a USB 3.0 device plugged into a corroded socket on a 1.0 standard USB, then too you have an issue.
That is why I told the OP to use good quality cables, or go wireless.
There is no advantage to making your own cables other than being able to cut to custom lengths and avoid having excess cable to coil and tuck away.
Robot terminated and thermally shrunk boot commercial cables will outdo anything you can do with a crimper. If you shop around you will find narrower diameter cables - sometimes called Slimrun or Flatwire cables. These are more easier to route in living spaces where you want to hide ethernet cables.
I've given up on WiFi. There are 198 WiFi hotspots within reach of my computers in the dense urban environment I live in. Because of all the RF spectrum congestions, I run hard-wire, point-to-point ethernet to my AppleTV and BlueSound Node 2 streamer.
There is no advantage to fancy ethernet cables for audio. If you want to spend money, buy yourself a nice managed switched with VLAN capability so that you can over-engineer your home network.
If you have a large home and are faced with considering long runs of ethernet cable, I'd look at Fiber and SFP/SFP+ modules and a compatible managed switch. 1G and 10G Fiber Ethernet is dirt cheap to implement, and for long runs of Ethernet - Fiber is going to help you avoid all sorts of problems. Fiber is also easy to run and you can order custom lengths. That's where I'd spend the money - Fiber backhaul network for a large house, with multiple PoE switches, multiple WiFi APs.
Robot terminated and thermally shrunk boot commercial cables will outdo anything you can do with a crimper. If you shop around you will find narrower diameter cables - sometimes called Slimrun or Flatwire cables. These are more easier to route in living spaces where you want to hide ethernet cables.
I've given up on WiFi. There are 198 WiFi hotspots within reach of my computers in the dense urban environment I live in. Because of all the RF spectrum congestions, I run hard-wire, point-to-point ethernet to my AppleTV and BlueSound Node 2 streamer.
There is no advantage to fancy ethernet cables for audio. If you want to spend money, buy yourself a nice managed switched with VLAN capability so that you can over-engineer your home network.
If you have a large home and are faced with considering long runs of ethernet cable, I'd look at Fiber and SFP/SFP+ modules and a compatible managed switch. 1G and 10G Fiber Ethernet is dirt cheap to implement, and for long runs of Ethernet - Fiber is going to help you avoid all sorts of problems. Fiber is also easy to run and you can order custom lengths. That's where I'd spend the money - Fiber backhaul network for a large house, with multiple PoE switches, multiple WiFi APs.
Considering the ethernet switch mentioned by eduard EtherREGEN – UpTone Audio , I do not think a technical discussion is expected.
Absolutely true. Not for OCD challenged audiophiles though. I have more than once seen terribly bad crimped cables that were supposedly the cream of the crop. Nothing measured of course. If one carefully looks at the chosen path one often discovers errors in the setup, all accounted for with a reason necessitating other interventions elsewhere (which keeps one busy running in the desired circle). Hint: grounding, lack of PE or PE errors, mixing up SFTP/FTP/UTP.
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Unless you have access to a quality RJ-45 crimper (which like any other quality crimping tool will cost a good deal of money) save your money and buy ready made shielded data centre quality cables. Error correction, even at data rates rates way way beyond anything that you would see for audio, is a fundamental part of the way that ethernet and IP work.
My USB hub isnt a switch but just a dumb box so the length of its cable is added to that of the camera. Add to that the load of any other items connected to the USB hub.
A USB extension box is just one socket and one cord.
A USB hub is a box with multiple sockets, connected through a cord to a single input jack. Inside the hub there is a chip, mostly under a blob of black epoxy, sometimes an IC, that controls the hub, and shares the ID of the plugged device with the computer.
That is the addition in the circuit, and can hinder data flow, as its USB version controls the data flow to and from the computer.
When you open your hub, you will find the sockets are not in parallel, and the data is going through a chip, the power connections may be in parallel but the data connections will be through the chip.
If you are interested, the VIA VT6202/6204 USB controllers are very common on motherboards and USB add on extension cards in computers. Many other makers also offer similar chips. You can get more information from their data sheets.
A USB hub is a box with multiple sockets, connected through a cord to a single input jack. Inside the hub there is a chip, mostly under a blob of black epoxy, sometimes an IC, that controls the hub, and shares the ID of the plugged device with the computer.
That is the addition in the circuit, and can hinder data flow, as its USB version controls the data flow to and from the computer.
When you open your hub, you will find the sockets are not in parallel, and the data is going through a chip, the power connections may be in parallel but the data connections will be through the chip.
If you are interested, the VIA VT6202/6204 USB controllers are very common on motherboards and USB add on extension cards in computers. Many other makers also offer similar chips. You can get more information from their data sheets.
If you want a perfect ethernet cable - buy a from the store. If you want one which somehow (the tcp/ip stack is pretty redundant and solid) I think your guess will be as good as anyone else. You need to add some faults and deficiencies to it in order to make it behave in such a bad manner that your data will be corrupted. Its either sound or no sound if you run tcp. You need to compromise the shielding and let some noise and EMI into the receiving end (DAC/streamer) in order to have some (negative!?) sonic impact.
Happy experimenting!
//
Happy experimenting!
//
Get a proper cable, maybe one with sleeving if you want some eye-candy. I made some cables in the past with the Telegärtner connectors and while they sure look nice and are very sturdy, I need a screwdriver to unplug them from my motherboard because there is no space to activate the release mechanism by hand.
Hello,
Some people do believe there can be differences. Some people say any cable will do.
When using the Telegartner connectors or any similar connector you can be sure that the quality of the connector can never be the problem.
I asked Alex Crespi from Uptone ( Etherregen company) about a good ethernet cable. He said he could only refer to the Etherregen manual where it is explained about how to " organize " the connection or no connection from screening to the connector depending upon the position of the connector in the " chain"
It is at least a bit weird that he wouldn't recommend a cable that will give good results when properly used.
Probably when he can justify the necessity of using his products he should be able to give a sensible advice about ethernet cable as well.
Greetings,Eduard
Some people do believe there can be differences. Some people say any cable will do.
When using the Telegartner connectors or any similar connector you can be sure that the quality of the connector can never be the problem.
I asked Alex Crespi from Uptone ( Etherregen company) about a good ethernet cable. He said he could only refer to the Etherregen manual where it is explained about how to " organize " the connection or no connection from screening to the connector depending upon the position of the connector in the " chain"
It is at least a bit weird that he wouldn't recommend a cable that will give good results when properly used.
Probably when he can justify the necessity of using his products he should be able to give a sensible advice about ethernet cable as well.
Greetings,Eduard