Compared to what?
Its rarely done cos everyone is following the advice that is religiously given on this forum. And if you only 'query' whether it has much/any effect....without actually trying, how will you ever know?
Please dont get the slide rule out and tell me the modelling says it wont work because I have built it and compared everything else out there. It works.
Its rarely done cos everyone is following the advice that is religiously given on this forum. And if you only 'query' whether it has much/any effect....without actually trying, how will you ever know?
Please dont get the slide rule out and tell me the modelling says it wont work because I have built it and compared everything else out there. It works.
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What size is the driver? Is it in a box, an open baffle, naked? How big is the room? How close to the wall, sides? How low does it play, how loud?
How can you say a single driver will satisfy my bass needs in my room?
How can you say a single driver will satisfy my bass needs in my room?
Well, by reading the tread, i think fullrange drivers are not for you. You try to use them for things they won't work in.
But i know they can play loud and low in an OB in the right circumstances, but then you need a baffle. But for you, multiway may be a better solution.
I'm a basshead (i listen to dub and other bass heavy music), and i play a single 5" 3/4 driver (Mark Audio CHN110) in an MLTL and it gives me all the bass i want, so don't do general claims that fullrange can't play bass, they can, but not in your application.
Anyway, have fun with your experiments, and as long as you enjoy the music, it does not matter wnat you use.
But i know they can play loud and low in an OB in the right circumstances, but then you need a baffle. But for you, multiway may be a better solution.
I'm a basshead (i listen to dub and other bass heavy music), and i play a single 5" 3/4 driver (Mark Audio CHN110) in an MLTL and it gives me all the bass i want, so don't do general claims that fullrange can't play bass, they can, but not in your application.
Anyway, have fun with your experiments, and as long as you enjoy the music, it does not matter wnat you use.
I dont follow the maths. After trying many different woofers in many different configurations, the face to face UM18 dipole arrangement gave me bass I am happy with: SPL, depth, detail, slam, & no artifacts.
Hi,
The double bass system working in unison has the following properties:
- it´s a nude system with a virtual baffle, the size of which depends on the driver´s distance, so a few dB´s gained, compared to a single driver
- impedance is of course halved in parallel, so another 3dB gain at 2,8V
- motor and suspension non-linearities are widely cancelled out, that reduces distortions
It´s of course not the most effective bass system, but could make for a very clean implementation aiming at quality. In my opinion, when free-swinging like Victor´s Dayton drivers, experiments with additional weight to counter the combined Mms could be useful.
All the best
Mattes
The double bass system working in unison has the following properties:
- it´s a nude system with a virtual baffle, the size of which depends on the driver´s distance, so a few dB´s gained, compared to a single driver
- impedance is of course halved in parallel, so another 3dB gain at 2,8V
- motor and suspension non-linearities are widely cancelled out, that reduces distortions
It´s of course not the most effective bass system, but could make for a very clean implementation aiming at quality. In my opinion, when free-swinging like Victor´s Dayton drivers, experiments with additional weight to counter the combined Mms could be useful.
All the best
Mattes
I recently became aware of Basta and have a rather basic question. Is a simulation of a driver in Basta on a baffle with no Baffle Step/Edge diffractions (which I assume means Infinite Baffle) supposed to match a manufacturers SPL response?
I've input the driver parameters, chose Baffle as the Box, No Filters/EQ/Room Gain etc is applied. While I'm not expecting it to match exactly I'd think it will at least follow the same trend since it appears that it is popular for speaker and crossover design.
Here is what I got for the Tang Band 1808 and the manufacturer's graph can be found here (W8-1808 - 8” Paper Full Range - TB SPEAKER CO., LTD.
I've input the driver parameters, chose Baffle as the Box, No Filters/EQ/Room Gain etc is applied. While I'm not expecting it to match exactly I'd think it will at least follow the same trend since it appears that it is popular for speaker and crossover design.
Here is what I got for the Tang Band 1808 and the manufacturer's graph can be found here (W8-1808 - 8” Paper Full Range - TB SPEAKER CO., LTD.
The simulation in Basta works with (and only with) the Thiele&Small-parameter of a driver.
These parameters describe the driver well enough that you can simulate the lower frequencies, for example tuning of enclosures etc.
What the program can´t do, based on only these parameters, is simulate the frequency response that one would measure in real life.
There are simulation programs out there that work with both: 1. the Thiele&Small-parameter and 2. the measured response. (from the manufacturer usually measured on a baffle, or your own measurements)
These, possibly, can be more accurate of course when it comes to simulating the crossover etc.
These parameters describe the driver well enough that you can simulate the lower frequencies, for example tuning of enclosures etc.
What the program can´t do, based on only these parameters, is simulate the frequency response that one would measure in real life.
There are simulation programs out there that work with both: 1. the Thiele&Small-parameter and 2. the measured response. (from the manufacturer usually measured on a baffle, or your own measurements)
These, possibly, can be more accurate of course when it comes to simulating the crossover etc.
Thanks @joensd.
I picked up a pair of Mark Audio 12p and they're fine but I find them missing in the top end and bit "boxy" or "choked". It doesn't sound gorgeous, open and airy. It is supposed to need 100+ hours of break-in. May be they'll open up?
I picked up a pair of Mark Audio 12p and they're fine but I find them missing in the top end and bit "boxy" or "choked". It doesn't sound gorgeous, open and airy. It is supposed to need 100+ hours of break-in. May be they'll open up?
The top end is as expected. Boxy, choked is more lkely the box you have them in. Except for the A12pw (and CHP-70.2/CHBW) the A12p has the most subdued top of any other MA.
Have they been properly broken in?
dave
Have they been properly broken in?
dave
They are in an Open Baffle. By "boxy" it feels like the sound comes out of a small throat. A 10" PRV in comparison sounds more open although it has a very shouty top end. I have checked that they're both level matched so I'm not confusing it with loudness.
Shouldn't the smaller 12p have a wider dispersion than the 10" driver? To be fair the 12p only has about 5-6 hours on it. Will they really change that much after 100+ hours?
Shouldn't the smaller 12p have a wider dispersion than the 10" driver? To be fair the 12p only has about 5-6 hours on it. Will they really change that much after 100+ hours?
I believe that MA tells you they need 500 hours break in. By that time, it's either your drivers are broken, or your ears are broken in to the sound of the driver!
Which ever way you think it goes..... 😀
Which ever way you think it goes..... 😀