Interest in Mouser stocking NDK NZ2520 SDA oscillators

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clay-speakers

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Joined 2006
gieseler.com.au/
I have been talking to Mouser about the possibility of stocking the ultra low phase noise NDK NZ2520SDA series of oscillators.

Specifically these.
NZ2520SDA-22.579200M-NSC5083D
NZ2520SDA-24.576000M-NSC5083D
NZ2520SDA-45.158400M-NSC5083D
NZ2520SDA-49.152000M-NSC5083D

They suit 3.3v supply.
Obviously depending on price do you think there would be much interest?
I know they are available via a few DIY outlets but I prefer buying from the big part suppliers. Mousers $60+ (Aus) order qualifies for free freight which is a nice bonus too.
 
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phase

Member
Joined 2004
Might be worth it if they came on a board the same size as some of the larger packages that are more common with audio equipment.
The ones I had were so tiny that it was a struggle to use them, especially adapting them, and that’s something I’m usually good at.
 
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clay-speakers

Member
Joined 2006
gieseler.com.au/
Canvas - Wow that is amazing cheap - were they actually labelled NZ2520SD?
I think the "non A" version specs can be all over the place. What usually happens is someone buys a large quantity of them, tests them & then resells the low spec versions very cheap.
eg NDK NZ2520SD, 22.5792 MHz, 25 pieces | eBay

phase - yes I totally agree with you - they are so darn small it is a battle to attach flying leads to them.
However the SDA version has very low phase noise & an enable pin so ideal as a drop in replacement on an Amanero board as a upgrade.
The only low phase noise Crystek (with enable pin) is way to big to fit on the Amanero.
 
s3tup

s3tup

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Joined 2004
s3t.it/audio/
You forget about one small thing. Without proper psu and some other things (neither of which won't fit anyway) the gain in performance is questionable at best.
Throwing in crysteks and NDKs won't make it perform as depicted on these charts. Not even close... You might have better results with glued gold-plated tag with "ultra low phase noise" written on it on top of the amanero board :) might, might not. It's more of a gambling rather than engineering :)
 
Extreme_Boky

Extreme_Boky

Member
Joined 2003
s3tup said:
You forget about one small thing. Without proper psu and some other things (neither of which won't fit anyway) the gain in performance is questionable at best.
Throwing in crysteks and NDKs won't make it perform as depicted on these charts. Not even close... You might have better results with glued gold-plated tag with "ultra low phase noise" written on it on top of the amanero board :) might, might not. It's more of a gambling rather than engineering :)
Click to expand...

Ouch...
 
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Markw4

Member
Joined 2016
clay-speakers said:
phase - yes I totally agree with you - they are so darn small it is a battle to attach flying leads to them.
Click to expand...

Not really. Its a matter of figuring out some technique. Looping a piece of gaffer tape inside out and sticking it to workbench leaves a sticky surface on top. Put the clock on that upside down to hold it in place. Strip some 30 ga. wire wrap wire, tin the pads on the clock using .3mm diameter or smaller solder and a very small tip, then touch the end of a piece of wire to a solder pad and quickly reheat with small solder iron tip. Wire tacks right down and solder joint is good. You can always add a tiny dab of paste flux with a sewing needle first to allow for a bit longer reheated soldering time.

Would have to agree that a local dedicated 3.3v LDO regulator should be soldered to the ground plane next to the clock, and of course with the clock soldered to the ground plane, then right into the dac chip with a good, small size SMD series resistor in-between, if needed for damping. Putting clocks on adapter boards on sockets and or using cheap u.fl connectors is not good for jitter. If connectors must be used, high quality SMA's properly torqued to spec should be used.
 
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canvas

Member
Joined 2003
spicetree.no-ip.com
clay-speakers said:
Canvas - Wow that is amazing cheap - were they actually labelled NZ2520SD?
I think the "non A" version specs can be all over the place. What usually happens is someone buys a large quantity of them, tests them & then resells the low spec versions very cheap.
eg NDK NZ2520SD, 22.5792 MHz, 25 pieces | eBay
Click to expand...

Yes, they are. The NZ2520SD are not guaranteed to perform as good as the one tested by NDK. It looks like someone do a pre-selection on their stock and sold the rest.
 
Max Headroom

Max Headroom

Banned
Joined 2013
canvas said:
Yes, they are. The NZ2520SD are not guaranteed to perform as good as the one tested by NDK. It looks like someone do a pre-selection on their stock and sold the rest.
Click to expand...
That someone would be Jocko Homo bless him, nobody else would/could write a description section like that one.
So they are tested but they won't be the pick of the bunch, those ones go into his gear.


Dan.
 
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mmerrill99

Member
Joined 2014
Markw4 said:
Not really. Its a matter of figuring out some technique. Looping a piece of gaffer tape inside out and sticking it to workbench leaves a sticky surface on top. Put the clock on that upside down to hold it in place. Strip some 30 ga. wire wrap wire, tin the pads on the clock using .3mm diameter or smaller solder and a very small tip, then touch the end of a piece of wire to a solder pad and quickly reheat with small solder iron tip. Wire tacks right down and solder joint is good. You can always add a tiny dab of paste flux with a sewing needle first to allow for a bit longer reheated soldering time.

Would have to agree that a local dedicated 3.3v LDO regulator should be soldered to the ground plane next to the clock, and of course with the clock soldered to the ground plane, then right into the dac chip with a good, small size SMD series resistor in-between, if needed for damping. Putting clocks on adapter boards on sockets and or using cheap u.fl connectors is not good for jitter. If connectors must be used, high quality SMA's properly torqued to spec should be used.
Click to expand...

Agreed that the PS is probably the most important aspect to get right for low jitter then followed by the clock itself

You can stick them down on Plasti-tak or Bluetak for soldering but magnification is needed, for sure.

Pity the bigger version isn't available NZ3250SD - I presume it has the same internals, just a larger casing.

I somehow don't think the Mouser price will be very attractive for SDA version?
 
Max Headroom

Max Headroom

Banned
Joined 2013
chris719 said:
Have you dealt with sourcing gray market components? Do you believe everything you read on the internet?
It will suffice to say that if they can be purchased from an authorized distributor who knows how to properly pack and store ICs it gives some additional peace of mind.
Click to expand...
No I don't believe everything including your FUD, I do believe the authenticity statement from Diyinhk site, and from Jocko.
Serious assembly houses do not trust anybody including Mouser and perform xray/performance testing of incoming inventory.
 
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chris719

Member
Joined 2004
Max Headroom said:
No I don't believe everything including your FUD, I do believe the authenticity statement from Diyinhk site, and from Jocko.
Serious assembly houses do not trust anybody including Mouser and perform xray/performance testing of incoming inventory.
Click to expand...

There are authorized distributors for a reason. I suggest you look into the reasons, since you appear to have no actual experience sourcing parts for mass production of a product. I did not say that there is anything wrong with Diyinhk, that their statement is incorrect, or their product has any flaws.

BTW, you didn’t even READ the original post. The original poster said he did not want to buy from outfits like Diyinhk, so there’s no need for your BS. Please stick to your gooping.
 
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Max Headroom

Max Headroom

Banned
Joined 2013
chris719 said:
There are authorized distributors for a reason. I suggest you look into the reasons, since you appear to have no actual experience sourcing parts for mass production of a product.

BTW, you didn’t even READ the original post. The original poster said he did not want to buy from outfits like Diyinhk, so there’s no need for your BS. Please stick to your gooping.
Click to expand...
Yes I well know about sourcing parts through 'approved' distributors, and supply delays, and substitutions, and alternate suppliers and testing/proving of incoming stocks/batches etc.
There is no need for the aggression, please cut it out.


Dan.
 
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