Guys and Gals, I've always wanted to make something that is compact and packs a bit of a punch. I've tried searching a few things over the past year and haven't seen much, but certain I'm just looking for the wrong thing. Has anyone successfully made something in a full range that could rival a Bose SoundLink mini or equivalent mass produced BT speaker?
Although still quite large I had a go using Dayton Audio ND65's and was a little disappointed when they started to distort with half volume, yet folks seem to be rocking 40mm drivers and a PR off AliExpress and getting those lower notes? I only have YouTube to go off, but with no T/S specs I wonder how one sizes anything correctly? Maybe I was being too adventurous trying to go down to 65hz, but it modelled well in WiniSD
I really want to build something small so any suggestions?
Although still quite large I had a go using Dayton Audio ND65's and was a little disappointed when they started to distort with half volume, yet folks seem to be rocking 40mm drivers and a PR off AliExpress and getting those lower notes? I only have YouTube to go off, but with no T/S specs I wonder how one sizes anything correctly? Maybe I was being too adventurous trying to go down to 65hz, but it modelled well in WiniSD
I really want to build something small so any suggestions?
They use impressive custom drivers and dynamic limiting/voicing to get the most perceived output possible in a tiny box. Bass is decreased at higher volume to preserve sound quality.
Best bet would be to go up in size to get a bit more natural headroom rather than having to reduce bass as you go up in volume. Define your maximum allowed dimensions for your box and go from there.
Other than that, it is actually quite hard to match the performance of these micro systems as the market is highly competitve.
Best bet would be to go up in size to get a bit more natural headroom rather than having to reduce bass as you go up in volume. Define your maximum allowed dimensions for your box and go from there.
Other than that, it is actually quite hard to match the performance of these micro systems as the market is highly competitve.
At the moment I built a boom box that uses a combined internal enclosure size of 0.3cuft with two 3.5 inch BMR drivers. Which sounds good, I just wanted a challenge to get close or at least double the size of a SoundLink mini which had some bass. So many options out there which seem to have 2 inch drivers and radiators I just haven't had luck with a driver of that size successfully moving a PR. Only experience was the ND65 and a Peerless 3.5 radiator
IMO, it's the DSP which makes the commercial products work. They might have 10dB of boost in the bass at low volumes, which disappears when you turn it up. Getting that sort of processing power into a small box is easy for someone with the tooling to make 100,000 of them. They can use odd-shaped circuit boards etc etc to fit their box perfectly.
We DIYers rarely have that sort of facility, which usually means our portable speakers end up more bulky. That's okay, though - we can then use bigger and better drivers and beat the commercial products that way.
Chris
We DIYers rarely have that sort of facility, which usually means our portable speakers end up more bulky. That's okay, though - we can then use bigger and better drivers and beat the commercial products that way.
Chris
Yep, that is true. I have made a couple which are sized properly and they sound great. I guess I just get a bit obsessed and what to show the family what I could build similar size, but.....sounds like what is available in the DIY scene doesnt really give me what I'm thinking, which is in itself an impossible task sometimes.
I have been thinking a few things recently like experimenting with isobaric of FR drivers, incorporating a mid range as a sub and even wondering if there is some sort of horn/TL I could use to get good sound out of a smaller enclosure. TBH I'm a beginner in speaker building but loving the woodworking aspect so wling to give something a go
I have been thinking a few things recently like experimenting with isobaric of FR drivers, incorporating a mid range as a sub and even wondering if there is some sort of horn/TL I could use to get good sound out of a smaller enclosure. TBH I'm a beginner in speaker building but loving the woodworking aspect so wling to give something a go
Best results I've got, is with one Dayton Audio ND-91 with two 4" generic PRs from ebay. It's not the smallest, internal volume about 2,5 liters, ~0,09cuft.
Electronics include 6 li-ion cells with BMS, TPA3118 and BT receiver.
If you want to go much smaller, DSP is the key. The wondom DSP board is quite cheap and small, but a pain to learn the programming, because there's no instructions. But what I've seen, you could do cool things with it. Bass boost is one, but I think that for example, JBL uses harmonics to create the illusion of powerful bass.
Electronics include 6 li-ion cells with BMS, TPA3118 and BT receiver.
If you want to go much smaller, DSP is the key. The wondom DSP board is quite cheap and small, but a pain to learn the programming, because there's no instructions. But what I've seen, you could do cool things with it. Bass boost is one, but I think that for example, JBL uses harmonics to create the illusion of powerful bass.
Been thinking about this further. Maybe an active circuit or crossover is what to do and maybe assume a box size of total box size of 0.15cuft total. Not mini as a SoundLink but maybe something I can cram a pair of TEBM65'S that I have lying around.
Just fiddling around with WiniSD and noticed the parametric EQ filter which appears to lift Hz. Anyone used one and do they work? And I guess how does one work it out? Seems like if it works everyone would be doing it?
Just fiddling around with WiniSD and noticed the parametric EQ filter which appears to lift Hz. Anyone used one and do they work? And I guess how does one work it out? Seems like if it works everyone would be doing it?
Looks like those TEBM65's will get a nice boost in 80-200hz range in that enclosure. I think you should first try it out and then start with the EQ if necessary.
Of course EQ will work. Most simple and effective way is a miniDSP, but that's not really convenient in portable build, and not the cheapest. That wondom dsp is cheaper, but not so user friendly. Maybe you could find some pre-made "bass-boost" boards from ebay or aliexpress?
When you are lifting lower frequencies, you will require more power and with that consume your battery faster.
Of course EQ will work. Most simple and effective way is a miniDSP, but that's not really convenient in portable build, and not the cheapest. That wondom dsp is cheaper, but not so user friendly. Maybe you could find some pre-made "bass-boost" boards from ebay or aliexpress?
When you are lifting lower frequencies, you will require more power and with that consume your battery faster.
Yeah I currently have a few builds using them, best is the monitors I built that are 0.18cuft per side, the pack a kick as it is tuned for 58hz.
I guess when I used 0.08cuft there was a rapid drop until I added the parametric EQ. Wasn't sure if it was like building a BSC with a couple of part's, didn't realise it is a board.. I'll have a Google tonight and see what's around.
I've been eyeballing those TEB's for a while, interesting little driver. Might have to try them someday.
Linkwitz transform is one of the many things you can do with miniDSP, they're not the same. LT is calculated for one specific setup, so that might be the best option here. Of course if you are a hobbyist, you can get the miniDSP to test these different filters IRL before building them.
By the way, you were building a ported box? I think LT is usually used with sealed enclosures only. With ported box you might exceed the driver's xmax pretty fast. Of course if you keep the levels reasonable low, you might be ok.
Linkwitz transform is one of the many things you can do with miniDSP, they're not the same. LT is calculated for one specific setup, so that might be the best option here. Of course if you are a hobbyist, you can get the miniDSP to test these different filters IRL before building them.
By the way, you were building a ported box? I think LT is usually used with sealed enclosures only. With ported box you might exceed the driver's xmax pretty fast. Of course if you keep the levels reasonable low, you might be ok.
Yeah I just noticed the notes on the spreadsheet referring to closed enclosures. To be honest if I could pull it off, I would be cranking it up to see if it distorts.
I have a spare DTA-2 15w amp board I was going to use as it seems to pair well with the drivers. Starting googling for the caps and they are quite small im comparison to the 100v ones I normally have used. All under 1uf which my local doesn't seem to stock, unless they are the smaller ones not refered to as cross over caps. I would love to get the TEBM's in a small box and get similar FS to my monitors, these would be most likely 12v and plugged into the wall for the time being, I just want to buy a few parts if needed and upcycle what I can. To date all I have really done is a couple of BSC and an attempt at a basic crossover/low pass filter thing, but willing to have a crack
I have 4 projects where I've used them, only one I didn't really like the bass was on a set of small t-lines. But I gutted them and made the active monitors. I really like the drivers and I can get them for a decent price, but I know there are a few that think they are inefficient
I have a spare DTA-2 15w amp board I was going to use as it seems to pair well with the drivers. Starting googling for the caps and they are quite small im comparison to the 100v ones I normally have used. All under 1uf which my local doesn't seem to stock, unless they are the smaller ones not refered to as cross over caps. I would love to get the TEBM's in a small box and get similar FS to my monitors, these would be most likely 12v and plugged into the wall for the time being, I just want to buy a few parts if needed and upcycle what I can. To date all I have really done is a couple of BSC and an attempt at a basic crossover/low pass filter thing, but willing to have a crack
I have 4 projects where I've used them, only one I didn't really like the bass was on a set of small t-lines. But I gutted them and made the active monitors. I really like the drivers and I can get them for a decent price, but I know there are a few that think they are inefficient
wow, got caught up reading a 9 year old post that somebody once posted on here about the LT. Very interesting (and strong) points of view. Also another about DIY'ers trying to make something small enough to compete with a jawbone and posted many different threads asking a variation of the same question. I'm not looking for financial gain, nor looking to buy parts (apart from caps, resistors) as i already have them sitting around. Just a very stubborn person wanting to make something small. I even have a couple of meters of timber sitting there, with glue and paint, so it will be a recycle job.
not sure if the LT is the best solution for the smaller box v larger driver scenario i was looking at, but did raise a different approach i completely haven't used since doing car audio stuff a very very long time ago, with stuffing to mimic a larger enclosure.
I know what drivers i can use and what size enclosure will bring out the best from them (or at least to my liking), but really want to use half the enclosure size, any recommendations to lift that FS up around that 60Hz mark? I dont mind having a go at the LT, but only if i can use a port. Can i lift the lower end with some form of cross over?
not sure if the LT is the best solution for the smaller box v larger driver scenario i was looking at, but did raise a different approach i completely haven't used since doing car audio stuff a very very long time ago, with stuffing to mimic a larger enclosure.
I know what drivers i can use and what size enclosure will bring out the best from them (or at least to my liking), but really want to use half the enclosure size, any recommendations to lift that FS up around that 60Hz mark? I dont mind having a go at the LT, but only if i can use a port. Can i lift the lower end with some form of cross over?
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Well, if the size really is a important factor, why don't you only use one driver? With small enclosure, is there really need for stereo playback? Yes, you would get the extra +3dB with two drivers (in theory), but you would also need the power to do it. And if you are using some EQ, that DTA-2 will probably run out of juice.
I would go for only one driver, a TPA3118 mono board and a suitable supply for it. It runs nicely with a generic laptop supply (19V), but you can also get a 24V supply for it.
Then the enclosure, if you stick with ported, I think that you cannot use much EQ without damaging the driver. Just try to simulate small and low tuned enclosure . And remember, you can also use passive radiators. Those ebay PR's I mentioned before, could come in handy.
I would go for only one driver, a TPA3118 mono board and a suitable supply for it. It runs nicely with a generic laptop supply (19V), but you can also get a 24V supply for it.
Then the enclosure, if you stick with ported, I think that you cannot use much EQ without damaging the driver. Just try to simulate small and low tuned enclosure . And remember, you can also use passive radiators. Those ebay PR's I mentioned before, could come in handy.
Did a vintage clock radio conversion for my niece last year using one of these Dayton Audio LW150-4 6" Low Profile Woofer 4 Ohms
......on the bottom downfiring and two 3” fullrangers on the front in .3cft tuned to 45hz. With the boundary gain on a table or desk, usable response was in the 30s. My only mistake was it was too light and would walk across the desk.
......on the bottom downfiring and two 3” fullrangers on the front in .3cft tuned to 45hz. With the boundary gain on a table or desk, usable response was in the 30s. My only mistake was it was too light and would walk across the desk.