Whats the point of the wave cannon over a typical t line? Does passing the front wave down a tube create a better response?
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- exceptionally easy to build
- cheap to build
- they're exceptionally insensitive to driver parameters because they're very resonant.
Having said all that, you can get much smoother response from a transmission line.
I posted this thread a while back, but IIRC, the Bose Wave Cannon is also very directional, which is neat.
That response you posted didn't look too bad at least in the bottom two octaves, but theres no way to push that null higher like near 160 hz? These seem to have high efficiency as well.
Again, it's been a couple years, but I imagine the primary challenge will be the directivity.
For a movie theater or a rock concert, the directivty of the Wave Cannon will be a "feature."
But at home, it could very well be a defect. Do you want a subwoofer that has humongous dips and peaks when you're listening 45 degrees off axis?
As for the nulls, those are inescapable, this is a narrow bandwidth device.
For a movie theater or a rock concert, the directivty of the Wave Cannon will be a "feature."
But at home, it could very well be a defect. Do you want a subwoofer that has humongous dips and peaks when you're listening 45 degrees off axis?
As for the nulls, those are inescapable, this is a narrow bandwidth device.
I thought of a way to use a divider in a large pipe and put a fold in the thing so that the two ends aren't that far apart. But that null at 80 hz is too low even for a subwoofer.
It works great!
It INFURIATES me that it's now impossible to buy Sonotube in any size larger than 12".
Because what you describe is a FANTASTIC way to build a subwoofer.
I did it here:
Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum - View Single Post - Sealed Box versus Infinite Baffle
This might be one of my top three subs I've ever built. Worked really really well. Fairly easy to construct, doesn't weigh a lot, doesn't cost a lot. Once covered with carpet, it doesn't look too bad either.
"Depth charge", extra credit for the name. I have some 8" drivers that aren't doing anything. A simple easy to build sub that covers maybe 30 to 120 wouldn't be too bad. It doesnt look like home depot carries anything larger than 12" tubes though.
I bought my sonotube from HD Supply, but they've stopped stocking anything over 12".
It's a real drag, I've looked all over for a source. You can buy bigger sizes online, but the shipping winds up being way more than the sonotube.
It's a real drag, I've looked all over for a source. You can buy bigger sizes online, but the shipping winds up being way more than the sonotube.
It's caused by the box size being too small. If I'd made it twice as big there would be less ripple.
Just look for a real construction supply co or a concrete supply house. For instance White Cap Constuction Supply here in LV stocks up to 60” diameter and has this cool a hell saw that cuts arrow straight and will cut to length for free.
There has to be a dozen places near you in SD county that has what ever you want. If you ever revisit this.
Barry.
White Cap is now HD Supply 🙁
It's where I bought that Sonotube
They've stopped stocking them.
I'll check the next time I'm in Vegas, but I've checked multiple locations in SoCal and the largest size they carry is 12" now. Same as Lowe's and Home Depot.
Ha I will have to look at the sign next time.
Just last Thursday-Friday we demo’d and Saturday re-poured my garage slab and just last week I was in White Cap for a couple of tools and while there marveled at a 12 foot tall 48” dia piece of Sono. Man what could we do with that?!?
I have several construction friends in SD county and will ask around. There is just no way in hell they have to order and import for every job.
A couple of the steel supply houses here stock and sell big sono as well. It just has to be all over SD as well.
Barry.
Just last Thursday-Friday we demo’d and Saturday re-poured my garage slab and just last week I was in White Cap for a couple of tools and while there marveled at a 12 foot tall 48” dia piece of Sono. Man what could we do with that?!?
I have several construction friends in SD county and will ask around. There is just no way in hell they have to order and import for every job.
A couple of the steel supply houses here stock and sell big sono as well. It just has to be all over SD as well.
Barry.
This is true for 'builder' apps, but 5 ft dia. x 20 ft long is the 'commercial' limit for those with 'deep pockets' [$$$]. At ~392.7 ft^3 [gross Vb], this should satisfy even the most jaded/deaf HIFI/HT LFE app aficionado. 😉
https://www.sonotube.com/UserFiles/...ommercial Concrete Forms product brochure.pdf
GM
Would placing the sub like this, (Correctly distanced)
Create a far more uniform frequency response at the desired field of listening the phase match would be better and could be integrated with the tuning.
I see this would be better than having the sub placed along the wall as it would solve that triangle frequency v distancelocation from the two ends of the sub.
how ever to account for low frequancy to really suffice it would need to be rather a long and high wall, but the rear of a house should do, this way the merry campfire can all share a more level bass response
I would immagine loading the long end of the wavepipe to the wall with the short end raidiating directly to the audiance would work best. however. its gotta be a rather solid sizable wall.
if the short end was loaded to the wall with the long end direct radiating the high bass notes would get far more gain over the direct radiating low end, however the wall could be smaller and the resonater could be designed specifically to compensate for this, in better words, more natural resonance in the lower notes, that likely would not be achievable unless the high note side of the thing was well padded
Having the low end toward the wall will likely work best
what about a brick tapped horn/tl. could be well situated and would be hard to steal something that you dont even know what it is. so the 'thief' would remove some grill and see some heafty driver bolted in, and thats if they got past that poly dovey that was shoved in front. and a few well placed pots or a fake fan could disguise it, could literly fix in a metal slanted grill, with a lump of concreate for a lid/roof, should be weather sound. of orse most theifs do come equipped with a large socket set these days hehe
that would need some prototype first to check how it sounds for the listening area as once built it would be a lasting feature. has anyone ever tryed a brick and concrete or stone tapped horn
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
*phase match between both ends of the sub within a listening area
am I uploding the picture correctly? what is the right way to include pictures for this forum?
Create a far more uniform frequency response at the desired field of listening the phase match would be better and could be integrated with the tuning.
I see this would be better than having the sub placed along the wall as it would solve that triangle frequency v distancelocation from the two ends of the sub.
how ever to account for low frequancy to really suffice it would need to be rather a long and high wall, but the rear of a house should do, this way the merry campfire can all share a more level bass response
I would immagine loading the long end of the wavepipe to the wall with the short end raidiating directly to the audiance would work best. however. its gotta be a rather solid sizable wall.
if the short end was loaded to the wall with the long end direct radiating the high bass notes would get far more gain over the direct radiating low end, however the wall could be smaller and the resonater could be designed specifically to compensate for this, in better words, more natural resonance in the lower notes, that likely would not be achievable unless the high note side of the thing was well padded
Having the low end toward the wall will likely work best
what about a brick tapped horn/tl. could be well situated and would be hard to steal something that you dont even know what it is. so the 'thief' would remove some grill and see some heafty driver bolted in, and thats if they got past that poly dovey that was shoved in front. and a few well placed pots or a fake fan could disguise it, could literly fix in a metal slanted grill, with a lump of concreate for a lid/roof, should be weather sound. of orse most theifs do come equipped with a large socket set these days hehe
that would need some prototype first to check how it sounds for the listening area as once built it would be a lasting feature. has anyone ever tryed a brick and concrete or stone tapped horn
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
*phase match between both ends of the sub within a listening area
am I uploding the picture correctly? what is the right way to include pictures for this forum?
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Unproductive to think in terms of The Five Standard Boxes. Better to think in terms of "how can I deal with the rear wave in this particular acoustic environment".
Tuning is not beneficial. Whether with a BR box or the quite similar behaving TL, tuning is the enemy of fidelity.
Doesn't make sense to take a Sonotube and then be obliged to settle for a high resonance freq driver (45 Hz) just because you can't tune the system with a low resonance driver. Tail wagging the dog.
Long pipe to sequester rear wave
B.
Tuning is not beneficial. Whether with a BR box or the quite similar behaving TL, tuning is the enemy of fidelity.
Doesn't make sense to take a Sonotube and then be obliged to settle for a high resonance freq driver (45 Hz) just because you can't tune the system with a low resonance driver. Tail wagging the dog.
Long pipe to sequester rear wave
B.
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What do you mean? "resonance is the enemy of fidelity"?
If so, I found my signature. 🙂
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