Tom, I find your Mod-86 amps VERY suitable for driving my 100dB/W/M Unity horns above 300Hz, even to unreasonable listening levels. They would be fine for lower efficiency drivers too if the bandwidth was restricted to above ~300Hz only. If they were driving a <85dB/W/M speaker full range I would find them only suitable for an apartment system, where high levels are not required (or desired).
Luckily the punters have some choice and can power up their systems if required.
Luckily the punters have some choice and can power up their systems if required.
I've been driving both my Fostex horn/reflex hybrids (8 ohm, sensitivity somewhere above 90dB/m/W) and my Mission 750LEs (6 ohm, sensitivity around 85dB/m/W) and have had no trouble with either, but I designed my system so that even unattenuated the maximum signal from the digital source cannot cause the Modulus-86s to clip. Digital volume control is disabled, I handle volume in the analogue domain with a stepped attenuator, so unless I have a clipped source file the Modulus-86s are never going to clip. I've been very happy with their sound. Realistically, except for testing purposes I'm never going to have them turned up, even with the lower efficiency Missions full volume is too loud for a semi-detached house, I would upset the neighbours!
I'm planning to add another Modulus to my collection soon, to drive a subwoofer project: probably another Modulus-86, for the upsetting-the-neighbours reasons above. A Modulus-86 run at +-38V regulated should provide the perfect amount of power to drive a Dayton Audio RSS265 8 ohm 10" driver.
I'm planning to add another Modulus to my collection soon, to drive a subwoofer project: probably another Modulus-86, for the upsetting-the-neighbours reasons above. A Modulus-86 run at +-38V regulated should provide the perfect amount of power to drive a Dayton Audio RSS265 8 ohm 10" driver.
I've been mulling over that, actually. All one has to do is to detect the input differential voltage of the LME49710. If that deviates significantly from zero, the amp is clipping. The trick is to do so reliably and cleanly. I'd probably also want to play a bit with the timing of the light itself to ensure that even a brief clip will be indicated.
Tom
Dang! I love when we're both right. From Ben Duncan, "High Performance Audio Power Amplifiers": "Crown's patented IOC (Input-Output Comparator) scheme first appeared in 1977 on their DC300A-II. In this and the subsequent related schemes used by other makers, the input and output are compared with the transfer function subtracted. If input differs substantially from the output (less the normal gain and phase differences), the amplifier must be clipping, shorted, slew limiting – or otherwise sick, due to RF oscillation or a 'DC fault'. If so a (sic) LED marked 'IOC' or 'Clip' or 'Error' lights."
Tom
Tom
More from Samsung-owned Harman Kardon-owned Crown: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...original.pdf&usg=AOvVaw3jNwHrE267JZLMKlSdumVe
In case the link doesn't work, I've attached the linked .pdf here.
Tom
In case the link doesn't work, I've attached the linked .pdf here.
Tom
Interesting that in their own literature they'd refer to one of their most famous products as "300 Watts and a Cloud of Smoke".
Surely a lot of hype for a relatively simple function. The trick is to incorporate into your amps, which have less distortion by several orders of magnitude, and not mess up distortion and/or stability. I expect it can be done without too much trouble.
Surely a lot of hype for a relatively simple function. The trick is to incorporate into your amps, which have less distortion by several orders of magnitude, and not mess up distortion and/or stability. I expect it can be done without too much trouble.
After some time, making a nice sound on a wooden plate, I decided these small beasts needed a pair of nice monoblock chassis
Dang! Nicely done, Sir! Thank you for sharing.
Tom