Hello there! I am a happy owner of a set of Magneplanar Tympani 1D speakers. I have rewired all 4 of the bass panels and have been pleased with how they sound. However, I have a large problem, one of the tweeters in them was destroyed (and I mean destroyed) at some point in their life to the point where the magnets and frame were damaged. It was a goner, and apparently Magneplanar no longer makes the tweeters anymore and so you can probably guess how I feel about that situation...
Anyway.
I have read a large amount of threads on this section discussing DIY ribbon tweeters. I am new to this website so please excuse my ignorance, but if anyone here has any guidance or threads discussing long ribbons, please link me to them as I need to read as much as I can before getting into this.
Efficiency is not a big deal here as from what I can tell that is the subject of concern for most. The bass panels are 84db 1 watt according to the Tympani 1D manual. What kind of magnet setup would I need to achieve that level of efficiency? I am aware that it is dependent on the size of the ribbon itself but any ballpark figures would be appreciative.
I am also thinking of doing a large scale tweeter, say 3" in width. I am looking for any opinions on whether or not a 3" wide ribbon tweeter would be able to go from 200hz to 20khz. I know the original tweeters crossed at 1.2khz but I'd like to take that down to delegate the bass panels to strictly bass, or close to that anyway.
I have a bit of experience and I'm good with rewiring a toroidal or traditional transformer for my needs, so for me that's not much of a concern.
Any links, information, or ideas would be excellent to be presented here. Question, has anyone ever tried using NiChrome foil for a ribbon diaphragm? I appreciate any replies, I really want to get these excellent speakers going. Thank you.
Anyway.
I have read a large amount of threads on this section discussing DIY ribbon tweeters. I am new to this website so please excuse my ignorance, but if anyone here has any guidance or threads discussing long ribbons, please link me to them as I need to read as much as I can before getting into this.
Efficiency is not a big deal here as from what I can tell that is the subject of concern for most. The bass panels are 84db 1 watt according to the Tympani 1D manual. What kind of magnet setup would I need to achieve that level of efficiency? I am aware that it is dependent on the size of the ribbon itself but any ballpark figures would be appreciative.
I am also thinking of doing a large scale tweeter, say 3" in width. I am looking for any opinions on whether or not a 3" wide ribbon tweeter would be able to go from 200hz to 20khz. I know the original tweeters crossed at 1.2khz but I'd like to take that down to delegate the bass panels to strictly bass, or close to that anyway.
I have a bit of experience and I'm good with rewiring a toroidal or traditional transformer for my needs, so for me that's not much of a concern.
Any links, information, or ideas would be excellent to be presented here. Question, has anyone ever tried using NiChrome foil for a ribbon diaphragm? I appreciate any replies, I really want to get these excellent speakers going. Thank you.
Have you contacted Magnepan to see if they're still able to refurbish the tweeters? My Tympani 1C system is currently at the factory being restored, and when I was there to drop them off there were a number of 1-series speakers queued up to be worked on. It can't hurt to ask.
Incidentally, the ribbon they are currently using to manufacture tweeters is about the consistency of Christmas tinsel; it's quite fragile and only about 1cm wide.
Incidentally, the ribbon they are currently using to manufacture tweeters is about the consistency of Christmas tinsel; it's quite fragile and only about 1cm wide.
Yes I have a bud that has a pr of the Tympani 1c....hes been trying to sale for years......I thought I get them from him about year ago....his bass panels were re-wired...2010 I think, but the old tweeters still work fine....but I saw that..Magnepan Stop rewireing the older push-pull type tweeters...thay were about $400 ea to rework.....I had to pass on the 1-c...I new the old wire tweeters would pop...I would be in your boat.....
I do have a pr of the ribbon tweeter bodies..... out of a pr of MG2.5r there the 4' long ribbon....that I can sale for $300 +shiping for the pr then you would have to get new ribbons from Magnepan....ribbon kit is $65 I think for two ribbons...if you like give that a go
good luck
I do have a pr of the ribbon tweeter bodies..... out of a pr of MG2.5r there the 4' long ribbon....that I can sale for $300 +shiping for the pr then you would have to get new ribbons from Magnepan....ribbon kit is $65 I think for two ribbons...if you like give that a go
good luck
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I thought about using magnepan's ribbon design from another speaker, but the problem is I dont think their typical ribbons go down very low. In fact, are these even specs as to how low those tweeters are crossed over in the first place? I'd really like to have a ribbon that I can take down as low as possible, hence why I am interested in the 3"-4" wide ribbons.
The MG2.5r is a rwo way...looks like 1k hz..crosser 12-5db ....look at link for spc..
http://www.integracoustics.com/MUG/MUG/articles/speakers.html
I pick these ribbons up for diy speakers one day....right I got to much ....hehe
Also I have pr of Apogee stage working ribbons I can sale...thay go down to 500hz 6db
$350 + shiping.....good luck
http://www.integracoustics.com/MUG/MUG/articles/speakers.html
I pick these ribbons up for diy speakers one day....right I got to much ....hehe
Also I have pr of Apogee stage working ribbons I can sale...thay go down to 500hz 6db
$350 + shiping.....good luck
Hi Martin
a few things to think on...
1- you are right , sensitivity will not be an issue in this design. The low sens of the basic "wire on film" design of the bass and mid range panels will easily be outdone by the "ribbon" design of the tweeter, even with the cheaper ceramic type magnets which are available on the net. In fact I believe if you look close there will likely be a resistor in the circuit leading to that ribbon tweeter. This means you have some extra sensitivity to work with and can change resistor value to suit needs.
2- If you are at all good with your hands you can make a similar tweeter. Its not rocket science. The only possible issue will be someones insistence on using the super thin 4 micron foil that the speakers had stock. This thin foil is very expensive and very hard to work with. However I have done a ton of prototype work using foil from 4 micron upto 25 micron. The standard foils from the grocery store(not the heavy duty just the standard foil) is around 17 microns thick. It will give you a surprisingly good result once you have the right resistance installed to match it to rest of system. This can be done by ear BTW
Then of course if so incline you can look for thinner stuff down the road.3- the 2-3 inch wide tweeter idea. I assume you mean a true ribbon design like the tweeter? If this is what you mean you are in for a world of issues not the least of which will be a 100 fold increase in magnet expense to get the field needed.I have done this too and yes it is better than the wire on foil mid design (planer type) BUT be warned there are many many difficulties involved and a very good result is had with that stock Maggie mid with a good working small tweeter.
I have heard this Maggie tweeter issue mentioned many times over years. If it were me I would buy a bunch of cheap grade 5 or grade 8 ceramic magnets from one of the suppliers on net. and make a crude ( or better )replacement or repair, and cut some strips of foil from the cheap stuff. This type of tweeter and size and use in this design doesn't require it to be exactly same size shape etc as the stock one. Just get whats close and you will be surprised and be able to easily fix it in future if necessary.
Hi Martin
a few things to think on...
1- you are right , sensitivity will not be an issue in this design. The low sens of the basic "wire on film" design of the bass and mid range panels will easily be outdone by the "ribbon" design of the tweeter, even with the cheaper ceramic type magnets which are available on the net. In fact I believe if you look close there will likely be a resistor in the circuit leading to that ribbon tweeter. This means you have some extra sensitivity to work with and can change resistor value to suit needs.
2- If you are at all good with your hands you can make a similar tweeter. Its not rocket science. The only possible issue will be someones insistence on using the super thin 4 micron foil that the speakers had stock. This thin foil is very expensive and very hard to work with. However I have done a ton of prototype work using foil from 4 micron upto 25 micron. The standard foils from the grocery store(not the heavy duty just the standard foil) is around 17 microns thick. It will give you a surprisingly good result once you have the right resistance installed to match it to rest of system. This can be done by ear BTW
3- the 2-3 inch wide tweeter idea. I assume you mean a true ribbon design like the tweeter? If this is what you mean you are in for a world of issues not the least of which will be a 100 fold increase in magnet expense to get the field needed.I have done this too and yes it is better than the wire on foil mid design (planer type) BUT be warned there are many many difficulties involved and a very good result is had with that stock Maggie mid with a good working small tweeter.
I have heard this Maggie tweeter issue mentioned many times over years. If it were me I would buy a bunch of cheap grade 5 or grade 8 ceramic magnets from one of the suppliers on net. and make a crude ( or better )replacement or repair, and cut some strips of foil from the cheap stuff. This type of tweeter and size and use in this design doesn't require it to be exactly same size shape etc as the stock one. Just get whats close and you will be surprised and be able to easily fix it in future if necessary.
Thank you for the response!
The thickness issue is something that to me just appears to be a measure of experimentation, so if/when I do this from time to time I'll try out different thicknesses of foil to see what I personally enjoy.
As for the width, I am more or less attempting to do the same idea as the Tympani IVA, which was lower the crossover point of the bass panels by 200hz so the tweeter/mid panel and bass panel are separate and can be moved independently.
I understand the 3" design needs more magnet money spent, after all a wider ribbon means a wider magnetic gap which decreases the efficiency of the speaker. I'm interested in hearing the other issues involved, I am aware impedance is a big issue but can be remedied with a Firstwatt F5 Turbo or a step up transformer. I am curious what the other issues are so I can see if I want to get involved in this endeavor or not. The extra magnet cost and the amplifier is not a big deal to me.
Thank you!
OK just to be clear as at moment Im not sure we are talking same drivers all the time.
If I understand right the "ribbon" in that Maggie is the true ribbon thats only about 1/4 inch wide. Its not the "planer magnetic" type design as in that speakers mid range and bass drivers.
So I am assuming when you say "3 in wide ribbon" you want to replace the mid range planer magnetic type driver in that system with a true "free swinging"( attached only at the ends) 3 inch wide ribbon??
The idea of a 3 inch wide true ribbon is seductive. I have built proto types of such monsters in both 2 and 3 inch versions. Both are a stretch by the laws of magnetism. It takes a huge magnet structure to get a reasonably uniform magnet field strength across the gap. The 2 inch BTW is enough to goto 200 hz with proper baffle and the 3 inch is about impossible to make a good magnet for so my advice is to stay with 2 inch max.
Next will be sensitivity issue. As low as the Maggie is, it is unlikely you will get sensitivity to match in a 2 " wide true ribbon using practical ceramic magnets. Some will say use high energy mags but now your into huge cost AND the mag field drops off even faster with gap width with high energy mags making it even more difficult to make uniform field. Of course if you use multiple amps then you can just dial in each drivers level so non issue with sensitivity.
The most cost effective and light weight way to do the 200 hz thing is a planer design in mid range as Maggie does. The problem is getting its resonant frequency right and well controlled. A difficult thing in a relativly narrow (3-4 in) wide tensioned film diaphragm but im not sure but maybe Maggie puts their mid section on same diaphragm as the bass??? If so then the resonate issue is side stepped. Small width planers have some ugly diophragm resonances.You need to have a very stiff unbending frame to keep that touchy tune or you will change it just by the flexing of the frame at set up. A serious issue and temptation to cross over a bit higher say 400 hz to avoid the typical trouble area of about 100-500 hz.
This is why there is a temptation to goto a true free swing ribbon on the mid. The resonance is so low as to not be an issue.
Anyway if you do decide to do a ribbon mid I would shoot for a 2 inch AND I would use a multi trace plastic backed type ribbon with very small corrugations similar to what you see in an Apogee Grand.
This is a well damped way to do that ribbon that will sound good easily in the Maggie platform. One that large will sound good even thrown together. Size makes ribbons easy
If you try to make a "FO" ( foil only) mid ribbon that wide you will likley have some serious resonances within its pass band unless you cross the Maggies treeble ribbon over down low enough say around 2 khz. It will depend on how large the corrugations are. The larger corrugations with resonate higher in freq. Experament...
I can tell you this much . I have built large planer mids and large ribbon mids. The ribbon wins the top class sonic thing for sure. The planer if done well can come close and is much cheaper and lighter weight.
The best sound I have ever heard was a large baffled pr of 2 in wide ribbons working from 100 hz all the way out. They beamed HF so eventually I played with a thin tweeter mounted next to them. Nothing I have ever heard was more convincing in the mids than those large free swinging ribbons.
If I understand right the "ribbon" in that Maggie is the true ribbon thats only about 1/4 inch wide. Its not the "planer magnetic" type design as in that speakers mid range and bass drivers.
So I am assuming when you say "3 in wide ribbon" you want to replace the mid range planer magnetic type driver in that system with a true "free swinging"( attached only at the ends) 3 inch wide ribbon??
The idea of a 3 inch wide true ribbon is seductive. I have built proto types of such monsters in both 2 and 3 inch versions. Both are a stretch by the laws of magnetism. It takes a huge magnet structure to get a reasonably uniform magnet field strength across the gap. The 2 inch BTW is enough to goto 200 hz with proper baffle and the 3 inch is about impossible to make a good magnet for so my advice is to stay with 2 inch max.
Next will be sensitivity issue. As low as the Maggie is, it is unlikely you will get sensitivity to match in a 2 " wide true ribbon using practical ceramic magnets. Some will say use high energy mags but now your into huge cost AND the mag field drops off even faster with gap width with high energy mags making it even more difficult to make uniform field. Of course if you use multiple amps then you can just dial in each drivers level so non issue with sensitivity.
The most cost effective and light weight way to do the 200 hz thing is a planer design in mid range as Maggie does. The problem is getting its resonant frequency right and well controlled. A difficult thing in a relativly narrow (3-4 in) wide tensioned film diaphragm but im not sure but maybe Maggie puts their mid section on same diaphragm as the bass??? If so then the resonate issue is side stepped. Small width planers have some ugly diophragm resonances.You need to have a very stiff unbending frame to keep that touchy tune or you will change it just by the flexing of the frame at set up. A serious issue and temptation to cross over a bit higher say 400 hz to avoid the typical trouble area of about 100-500 hz.
This is why there is a temptation to goto a true free swing ribbon on the mid. The resonance is so low as to not be an issue.
Anyway if you do decide to do a ribbon mid I would shoot for a 2 inch AND I would use a multi trace plastic backed type ribbon with very small corrugations similar to what you see in an Apogee Grand.
This is a well damped way to do that ribbon that will sound good easily in the Maggie platform. One that large will sound good even thrown together. Size makes ribbons easy
If you try to make a "FO" ( foil only) mid ribbon that wide you will likley have some serious resonances within its pass band unless you cross the Maggies treeble ribbon over down low enough say around 2 khz. It will depend on how large the corrugations are. The larger corrugations with resonate higher in freq. Experament...
I can tell you this much . I have built large planer mids and large ribbon mids. The ribbon wins the top class sonic thing for sure. The planer if done well can come close and is much cheaper and lighter weight.
The best sound I have ever heard was a large baffled pr of 2 in wide ribbons working from 100 hz all the way out. They beamed HF so eventually I played with a thin tweeter mounted next to them. Nothing I have ever heard was more convincing in the mids than those large free swinging ribbons.
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I apologize for not being clear enough.
The Tympani 1D model uses a planar magnetic drive to cover from 1khz all the way to 20khz. They have them built in such a way that if the wire breaks (and it does) you have about a 50% of getting it apart without damaging it. Unfortunately mine were damaged before I could even take a jab at it. So I am talking about build a true ribbon driver to replace this tweeter.
If a 2" wide ribbon tweeter is able to do 200hz, then that sounds like where I want to be. Keep in mind, I have never built nor experimented with ribbons, so I am not sure how wide a ribbon needs to be to adequately reproduce down to 200.
I am going with active bi-amping so I could match it fairly well regardless.
I appreciate the advice, I have some ceramic magnets from the destroyed mid/tweeter so I'll experiment further and see what I can get out of them.
The Tympani 1D model uses a planar magnetic drive to cover from 1khz all the way to 20khz. They have them built in such a way that if the wire breaks (and it does) you have about a 50% of getting it apart without damaging it. Unfortunately mine were damaged before I could even take a jab at it. So I am talking about build a true ribbon driver to replace this tweeter.
If a 2" wide ribbon tweeter is able to do 200hz, then that sounds like where I want to be. Keep in mind, I have never built nor experimented with ribbons, so I am not sure how wide a ribbon needs to be to adequately reproduce down to 200.
I am going with active bi-amping so I could match it fairly well regardless.
I appreciate the advice, I have some ceramic magnets from the destroyed mid/tweeter so I'll experiment further and see what I can get out of them.
Ha no worries, I dont know which Maggie models have which specific driver types but have the knowledge of 30+ years of making copies and refinements of their basic designs.
The how wide thing.... even a 1 inch wide ribbon , if long enough and in enough baffle, will goto 200 hz. The problem is that width will tend to have other issue with stability and power handling etc.
Experience has shown that about 2 inches is right in a large ribbon trying to go below about 400 hz.
The problem is most of the power in music is between about 80 and 400 hz and going to 200 is a bigger issue than it may seem. Also having a tweeter thats larger than about one inch is going to beam the high frequency's so much that you will have a very narrow sweet spot to listen in and this is why some designs with 2-3 inch wide mid/tweeters have added a small ribbon tweeter right next to the mid/tweeter driver. Although with this setup you can have a hard time getting the same coherency and perfect blending that a single mid/tweeter does easily.
The most successful approach in my experience is to cross these 2 way dipoles over from bass panel to mid/tweeter around 4-500hz and use a mid/tweeter thats about 1 inch wide. This does a couple of things. 1- it leaves most of the power region on the bass panel that can handle it well. 2- it allows the use of a mid tweeter that has a good balance of both bandwidth and high frequency dispersion. Also there just seems to be somthing about crossing over at 400-500 that is easy to Taylor the overall tone to sounding convincing.
That said if narrow listening window not a concern for you, and your willing to put in the time of getting 3 drivers matched together ( about an order of magnitude more difficult than 2 way), then the 2 inch 200 hz thang can be truly great but I believe its best done with a small tweeter next to it.
As for the magnets. The ones in your speaker are quite small. I am guessing the width on a pole face to be around 1/4 to 3/8 in wide. This size could be used for the very small 1/4 inch wide tweeter ribbon BUT the 2 inch wide ribbon will need MUCH larger magnets. The last one I built used grade 5 ceramics that were 1.5 inch wide on pole face and 1 inch deep ! Thats a 24 fold increase in magnet volume. The mid magnet structures weighed as much or more than the bass panels.
The how wide thing.... even a 1 inch wide ribbon , if long enough and in enough baffle, will goto 200 hz. The problem is that width will tend to have other issue with stability and power handling etc.
Experience has shown that about 2 inches is right in a large ribbon trying to go below about 400 hz.
The problem is most of the power in music is between about 80 and 400 hz and going to 200 is a bigger issue than it may seem. Also having a tweeter thats larger than about one inch is going to beam the high frequency's so much that you will have a very narrow sweet spot to listen in and this is why some designs with 2-3 inch wide mid/tweeters have added a small ribbon tweeter right next to the mid/tweeter driver. Although with this setup you can have a hard time getting the same coherency and perfect blending that a single mid/tweeter does easily.
The most successful approach in my experience is to cross these 2 way dipoles over from bass panel to mid/tweeter around 4-500hz and use a mid/tweeter thats about 1 inch wide. This does a couple of things. 1- it leaves most of the power region on the bass panel that can handle it well. 2- it allows the use of a mid tweeter that has a good balance of both bandwidth and high frequency dispersion. Also there just seems to be somthing about crossing over at 400-500 that is easy to Taylor the overall tone to sounding convincing.
That said if narrow listening window not a concern for you, and your willing to put in the time of getting 3 drivers matched together ( about an order of magnitude more difficult than 2 way), then the 2 inch 200 hz thang can be truly great but I believe its best done with a small tweeter next to it.
As for the magnets. The ones in your speaker are quite small. I am guessing the width on a pole face to be around 1/4 to 3/8 in wide. This size could be used for the very small 1/4 inch wide tweeter ribbon BUT the 2 inch wide ribbon will need MUCH larger magnets. The last one I built used grade 5 ceramics that were 1.5 inch wide on pole face and 1 inch deep ! Thats a 24 fold increase in magnet volume. The mid magnet structures weighed as much or more than the bass panels.
I appreciate all of the information and you taking the time to explain this to me!
I am very willing to try out different crossover points, 500hz definitely is a much easier thing to manage. That, and a thinner diaphragm will help with both sensitivity and the impedance of the driver. The plan was originally a 48" long driver, but I should re measure what I need and go from there.
Do you have any links or recommendations for magnets? As well as corrugating the actual diaphragm? A sweet spot isn't the largest concern for me, as I would separate the high panel from the bass panels and position it perfectly depending on the listening position.
I am very willing to try out different crossover points, 500hz definitely is a much easier thing to manage. That, and a thinner diaphragm will help with both sensitivity and the impedance of the driver. The plan was originally a 48" long driver, but I should re measure what I need and go from there.
Do you have any links or recommendations for magnets? As well as corrugating the actual diaphragm? A sweet spot isn't the largest concern for me, as I would separate the high panel from the bass panels and position it perfectly depending on the listening position.
yea you could even try 500 hz with the present mid/tweeter. You will likley need some filtering of that mid/tweet to get the overall tone right. Look up trap filters and or rake filters. These to adjust the frequency response of the mid/tweet to what pleases the ear. Beware of letting measurement dictate with this type of speaker especially. Oh and btw you can go from good sound to trully great sound within 1db on such designs. Thats a well kept secret and easily missed!!
Another good mod for that type of mid/tweet is to ditch the wires and use foil traces. Make your own. This will have less distortion than the wire design. In the mid /tweet driver anyway. I would keep the wires on the bass.
Some guide lines on foil and film thickness...
If u want to make a foil /film diaphragm for the present magnet system
film between .00025 and .0005 "
foil between .00025 and .001"
BTW thinner foil will NOT necessarily give you higher sensitivity. In fact the highest sensitivity in this design will likely be with foil close to .0005-.0007", film .00025"
If your going to make a true ribbon for that speaker say ether 1" or 2" then..
film / foil will be the same as above BUT I give you a hint likely best with film around .00025" and foil close to .0007". The biggest problem with making your own will be the adhesive type and thickness. Keep it thin, far thinner than any available adhesive transfer tapes. many just use 3M super 77 spray. Put it on as light as you can and still get adhesion.
Magnets...
heer is a link for mags that would work well for a 1 " +- .2" ribbon. I would stack these magnet at least 2 deep to get good field uniformity. I dont see any available that would work well for 2 " ribbon at the moment
MAGNET4LESS-APPLIED MAGNETS-Neodymium Magnets-Rare Earth Magnets-Ceramic Magnets-Industrial Magnets-Magnets Wholesale To The Public
Another good mod for that type of mid/tweet is to ditch the wires and use foil traces. Make your own. This will have less distortion than the wire design. In the mid /tweet driver anyway. I would keep the wires on the bass.
Some guide lines on foil and film thickness...
If u want to make a foil /film diaphragm for the present magnet system
film between .00025 and .0005 "
foil between .00025 and .001"
BTW thinner foil will NOT necessarily give you higher sensitivity. In fact the highest sensitivity in this design will likely be with foil close to .0005-.0007", film .00025"
If your going to make a true ribbon for that speaker say ether 1" or 2" then..
film / foil will be the same as above BUT I give you a hint likely best with film around .00025" and foil close to .0007". The biggest problem with making your own will be the adhesive type and thickness. Keep it thin, far thinner than any available adhesive transfer tapes. many just use 3M super 77 spray. Put it on as light as you can and still get adhesion.
Magnets...
heer is a link for mags that would work well for a 1 " +- .2" ribbon. I would stack these magnet at least 2 deep to get good field uniformity. I dont see any available that would work well for 2 " ribbon at the moment
MAGNET4LESS-APPLIED MAGNETS-Neodymium Magnets-Rare Earth Magnets-Ceramic Magnets-Industrial Magnets-Magnets Wholesale To The Public
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Why not make the tweeters again ? Look at my YouTube channel for loads of planar with rubber
You are not likely going to outperform the quasi ribbon original with a true ribbon on the low end performance. The 1D used a 6db Oct filter as many of the magnepans thats why they chose the 1.2khz crossover. The original are perfectly capable of play down to 400hz with a proper used filter.
I got rubber magnets if you need any. Wires to or you could just order a spool. At magnepan.
Some perf steel, some spacers Mylar and 3m 30nf and you are ready to rock.
Check my projects I think suited for you at YouTube
You are not likely going to outperform the quasi ribbon original with a true ribbon on the low end performance. The 1D used a 6db Oct filter as many of the magnepans thats why they chose the 1.2khz crossover. The original are perfectly capable of play down to 400hz with a proper used filter.
I got rubber magnets if you need any. Wires to or you could just order a spool. At magnepan.
Some perf steel, some spacers Mylar and 3m 30nf and you are ready to rock.
Check my projects I think suited for you at YouTube
...Magnepan dose not sale the old Aluminum tweeter wire any longer...There So called quasi foil they well sale.... was $15 for 1 spool, well do two tweeters....there quasi foil is not pure Aluminum .....an has less output than there old Aluminum wire.... yes the copper mag wire is the right size.....copper wire dose not have the same output as Aluminum ....I used the Magnepans q ribbon foil an mag wire....on a pr of the old Smga, never sounded right...I had to go back to the old Aluminum 36ga wire.....you can find 36ga Aluminum wire....but not in small rolls.....
I don't like the newer front faceing foil type maggys.... this is how thay got the foil output up..
I have the old wire MG2c...MG1c thay still sound great....well to my old ears........good luck
Wrinex.....thanks for your youtube info.. thay sounds great ...looks like you got it right.....
I don't like the newer front faceing foil type maggys.... this is how thay got the foil output up..
I have the old wire MG2c...MG1c thay still sound great....well to my old ears........good luck
Wrinex.....thanks for your youtube info.. thay sounds great ...looks like you got it right.....
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i got serveral rolls of aluminium magnet wire
0.3 0.315 0.132. 0.15 0.172 mm and some more. the 0.172 comes close to the tweeter wire from magnepans smga. slightly higher resistance but i measured them compared to an original and they are within the scope i can measure loudness wise the same. i never used copper because of the weight. about the foil, it is pure alu. bu the thing is a part of the conductor is not in the strongest field hence the drop in dB.
i actually dont see much benefits compared to wire my guess marketing to be honest. i think i measured it serveral times but my administration is kind of a mess
hahaSurplus
A pair of R45 ribbons are currently available.
I once built a set of "Frankenpan" 3 ways with these. Their response neatly emulates Magneplanar panels, and they're robust.
I used a single cap as crossover.
Well when thay went to the mylar & foil faceing too the front...so any q ribbon foil output loss was made up. But I have had the MMG,1.6 ,1.7....thay just don't have the magic I like about the older magnepans ......but all my Esl & Apogees ribbons have always souned better than even any of the Tympani....well to me
thanks for the wire info
thanks for the wire info