hi all,
am new to this forum.
am planning to build a ported subwoofer box for my car using the
Pioneer TS-W309S4 Champion Series 12" 4-ohm subwoofer driver.
here are the specs:
Pioneer TS-W309S4 Champion Series 12" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
before coming to the decision of choosing a ported box i did some research.
i also downloaded and tried to use some online box calculator..but that's difficult for me to understand.
can someone please guide me ?
i want to use MDF 3/4 inch.
Thanks
am new to this forum.
am planning to build a ported subwoofer box for my car using the
Pioneer TS-W309S4 Champion Series 12" 4-ohm subwoofer driver.
here are the specs:
Pioneer TS-W309S4 Champion Series 12" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
before coming to the decision of choosing a ported box i did some research.
i also downloaded and tried to use some online box calculator..but that's difficult for me to understand.
can someone please guide me ?
i want to use MDF 3/4 inch.
Thanks
According to bassboxpro the vent velocity will peak at 50m/s at 30Hz (suggested enclosure, Pmax). Way too high.
I guess it depends on the amount of space available. If there isn't alot i'd suggest a 1.3 ft3 or 37 liters heavily stuffed closed box.
Otherwise i'd suggest a 2 ft3 ported box with a 5 in dia and 20 in long port.
I guess it depends on the amount of space available. If there isn't alot i'd suggest a 1.3 ft3 or 37 liters heavily stuffed closed box.
Otherwise i'd suggest a 2 ft3 ported box with a 5 in dia and 20 in long port.
This sub is 400 Watt RMS.
I want to run this sub with a 450 Watt RMS Amplifier.
Can we really ignore Pioneer's recomendations?
thanks.i saw this.
does this mean we need only care about the volume of the box ? this is confusing me.
i got this link: Rockford Fosgate® - Woofer BoxWizard
but this is for sealed box.
i need something similar for vented so that i can get the dimensions of the mdf.
PVC tube would be fine, but I suggest searching for (web)shops that sell complete ports or flares that can be glued to the pipe.
You could also use a slot-port.
Volume is very important to have the subwoofer work properly. I suggest reading Brian Steele's website The Subwoofer DIY Page.
To simulate your own boxes I recommend winISD or BassBoxPro.
You could also use a slot-port.
Volume is very important to have the subwoofer work properly. I suggest reading Brian Steele's website The Subwoofer DIY Page.
To simulate your own boxes I recommend winISD or BassBoxPro.
i installed WinISD but hesitated to try as the software is in Alpha release. the other one is beta release.
let me try in WinISD then will revert back to you.
thanks.
In a HIFI/HT app, I agree, this one calculates an Xmax limited 4.58" dia., so the 5" would be desirable, but in a small space there's lots of 'cabin gain', which damps both the driver and vent [if used], so it doesn't need to be as large, long.
The question then is how big is the vehicle or trunk it will be located in? Unless it's really large, open or one drives with the windows down all the time, I'm inclined to trust Pioneer to have a clue what works best for their drivers in a vehicle app.
GM
Yep. I would suggest using a flared vent though
.The process for coming up with the "best" car subwoofer design is slightly different to what most of those box design apps try to do, which is to give a maximally-flat response. For a car audio subwoofer, it's trying to find that balance between response, power-handling and box size (as space in a car typically is a limited resource). I'd go with Pioneer's suggestions unless you really want to try something different.
Agreed.....another bit of info that would be helpful is what kind of vehicle is this going into? In a trunk, or pickup king cab? What kind of music do you listen to? If you listen to "everything" I would personally stay away from ported boxes...they are alot more work and have a very uneven frequency response. Sealed boxes are fast fun and easy, and usually quite a bit smaller...lol, just require a bit more power....IMHO... Dont know the specifics about that driver though to solidly recommend going from ported to sealed.
If ported it must be, then it needs to be tuned not only to the driver but also the car. Essentially you will be sitting in the outer chamber of a huge "6th order bandpass" box on wheels. Calculators will only get you so close, and sometimes in completely the wrong direction. The GOOD ported boxes that integrated well with the upper frequency drivers, were all "tweaked" substantially from the original design, in terms of internal volume, port size, and vehicle placement. ie...a little "huffing" from a port isnt usually noticable when the box is in the trunk of a car. But the same box in the cab of a truck would be downright annoying.
Best of luck in whatever you choose.....
If ported it must be, then it needs to be tuned not only to the driver but also the car. Essentially you will be sitting in the outer chamber of a huge "6th order bandpass" box on wheels. Calculators will only get you so close, and sometimes in completely the wrong direction. The GOOD ported boxes that integrated well with the upper frequency drivers, were all "tweaked" substantially from the original design, in terms of internal volume, port size, and vehicle placement. ie...a little "huffing" from a port isnt usually noticable when the box is in the trunk of a car. But the same box in the cab of a truck would be downright annoying.
Best of luck in whatever you choose.....
Yep. I would suggest using a flared vent though
The process for coming up with the "best" car subwoofer design is slightly different to what most of those box design apps try to do, which is to give a maximally-flat response. For a car audio subwoofer, it's trying to find that balance between response, power-handling and box size (as space in a car typically is a limited resource). I'd go with Pioneer's suggestions unless you really want to try something different.
The t/s parameters would suggest sealed, but the limited Xmax suggests vented. The recommended box size and tuning should result in an Fb around 40 Hz or below and excellent power-handling within the passband. In car there may be a peak between 40Hz and 50 Hz which can be tamed via EQ (or left alone if the listener prefers a bit of extra bass there).
Looking at the predicted response curve, I may be tempted to try a longer vent (10~12"), which should tame the peak in the passband a bit and give just a little more bass below about 35 Hz or so, without giving up too much power-handling in the passband.
The few ported boxes I built, I almost always used an adjustable "sleeve" type port to get the right length...but also did a few "slots" that were easily "cut down" to tune. All of this is kinda overkill, but it can help eliminate that EQ if you are only using it for the sub(s), plus testing in car is the way to go. Usually had to make at least a few "adjustments". If you have lots of room, make the box bigger than recommended, then you can use whatever material you have, like 3/4" leftovers to "tune" the internal volume, again specific to the car. If it was a paying client, I usually built two boxes, one to get everything right(but not so pretty), then a final version nice and tidy, so to speak. Thats just my experience. Sealed...just get it close and your good to go...again, that is my preference. Plenty of people LOVE the ported sound (un-EQ'ed), and so do I in certain genres of music, but rarely do they blend well with mids and highs in terms of linearity and sound quality. But a proper sealed box can do it all...just not quite as loud with the same amp. There are always trade-offs and compromises....
let me have your thoughts on the AJ Vented Designer 2.0 software. (AJ Design Software - Math Science Engineering Finance Physics Health Calculators Apps)
You might want to look at this thread for a car sub that fits in the trunk and has a duct that feeds into the main cabin. It can probably be easily adapted to your drivers.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/264737-pp-slot-loaded-sub-alpine-swr-12d2.html
The ports are long slots 1in x 10in x 24in long. I think max velocities at peak SPL is 25m/s IIRC.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/264737-pp-slot-loaded-sub-alpine-swr-12d2.html
The ports are long slots 1in x 10in x 24in long. I think max velocities at peak SPL is 25m/s IIRC.
No exp with that software. I'm still using the old jblpro with all the t/s parameter database for those "old" drivers.
As for the 400w speaker vs. a 450w amp. Dont be too concerned by the "mismatch". Manufacturer specs on wattages are notoriously wrong. Frankly you can "blow" just about any speaker with any amp(just run the amp past clipping enough to run enough DC to the VC on the speaker, and viola!...burnt VC.
Build your box, install, set the gain(s) *correctly*, and know precisely where the signal from your amp starts to clip, and stay a notch below that...I always erred on the side of caution, and only released the magic smoke from a few speakers, out of...hell I lost count...lol.
Besides, "short bursts", one song kinda thing, at "full non clipping volume" is better for your ears, and your equipment. I used to run an old Autotek 7300BTS full tilt for my hour long commute(each way) daily, and the gear and my ears suffered, and continue to suffer...so use some common sense, if your ears hurt...turn it down some.... Actually that 7300 is still alive and well but it got so hot you could cook eggs on it, even with a fan. Pushing two old 10" Kicker Comp(white/red) in individual sealed boxes in a s10 blazer. I won more than a few bets from people that couldnt believe I *only* had two tens....but that was a long, long time ago... my thoughts and experiences could be completely irrelevant nowadays.....
Best advice....buy a few extra sheets of 3/4 and start building. Hell they probably have rta apps for phones now...I still have the old handheld with a separate pink noise gen. Damn Im old....lol.
As for the 400w speaker vs. a 450w amp. Dont be too concerned by the "mismatch". Manufacturer specs on wattages are notoriously wrong. Frankly you can "blow" just about any speaker with any amp(just run the amp past clipping enough to run enough DC to the VC on the speaker, and viola!...burnt VC.
Build your box, install, set the gain(s) *correctly*, and know precisely where the signal from your amp starts to clip, and stay a notch below that...I always erred on the side of caution, and only released the magic smoke from a few speakers, out of...hell I lost count...lol.
Besides, "short bursts", one song kinda thing, at "full non clipping volume" is better for your ears, and your equipment. I used to run an old Autotek 7300BTS full tilt for my hour long commute(each way) daily, and the gear and my ears suffered, and continue to suffer...so use some common sense, if your ears hurt...turn it down some....
Actually that 7300 is still alive and well but it got so hot you could cook eggs on it, even with a fan. Pushing two old 10" Kicker Comp(white/red) in individual sealed boxes in a s10 blazer. I won more than a few bets from people that couldnt believe I *only* had two tens....but that was a long, long time ago... my thoughts and experiences could be completely irrelevant nowadays..... Best advice....buy a few extra sheets of 3/4 and start building. Hell they probably have rta apps for phones now...I still have the old handheld with a separate pink noise gen. Damn Im old....lol.
Hi All,
FYI:
b
wow that's a big poster.
there are lots of maths and curves, but frankly i did not understand it
where did you get the first part of the picture (the specs of the driver) ?
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