FE126E work quite well in FH3, and even the BK12, but if either of those don't pass WAF, enclosures that would will probably need to XO high enough that stereo woofers would be required.
Yes there is alot of different factors going into play with alot of different boxes to pick from. I was trying to say that if the org. owner was going to throw them away or out and to see how much shipping is? I just wanted to see what this drivers sound like in this type of box? Jdm
I really like this forum, everybody so helpful and extremely funny. I guess most of you can relate to the problem well 
So, yes, not getting rid of the girlfriend.
Although I like headphones I haven't got the money to invest in a decent one with amp at the moment, that and I don't think she would agree with that either, me sitting there with headphones on, not hearing her when she talks to me
Had a look at the metronome, and I'm not sold on the design (irony?), meaning when I do change I want something I really like.
And yes, Dave FH3 has passed the WAF test, so that seems all good.
Kindhornman - Since this is my first full range setup I'm mainly in love with the full body of the sound, fills the room so nicely. it's mainly in the upper region where it excels though.
I want a clear full range audio that fills the room. does that make sense?
I played Dark Side of the Moon on vinyl as the first thing, and how it on my old system (B&W) sometimes got hard to listen to a little annoying in your face sound, this time it was soft and gentle and everywhere and so crisp.
So I would hate to lose that by changing cabinets but realise I will have to take that risk
and yes JDM, don't think you want to get those shipped, they way a ton and are pretty big as you can tell. Would be very pricey. Better get some carpenter or fellow DIY'er to build some for you. I'd recommend it.
Cheers.
So, yes, not getting rid of the girlfriend.
Although I like headphones I haven't got the money to invest in a decent one with amp at the moment, that and I don't think she would agree with that either, me sitting there with headphones on, not hearing her when she talks to me
Had a look at the metronome, and I'm not sold on the design (irony?), meaning when I do change I want something I really like.
And yes, Dave FH3 has passed the WAF test, so that seems all good.
Kindhornman - Since this is my first full range setup I'm mainly in love with the full body of the sound, fills the room so nicely. it's mainly in the upper region where it excels though.
I want a clear full range audio that fills the room. does that make sense?
I played Dark Side of the Moon on vinyl as the first thing, and how it on my old system (B&W) sometimes got hard to listen to a little annoying in your face sound, this time it was soft and gentle and everywhere and so crisp.
So I would hate to lose that by changing cabinets but realise I will have to take that risk
and yes JDM, don't think you want to get those shipped, they way a ton and are pretty big as you can tell. Would be very pricey. Better get some carpenter or fellow DIY'er to build some for you. I'd recommend it.
Cheers.
The true soul mate will give you a room where you can put your monstrosities, err speakers without too much comment..
My wife's only comment upon seeing the 12 cu ft Onken boxes (port and cabinet volume) arrive some years back was "I thought you said they would be smaller than the ones they replaced" but what I had actually said was they would have a smaller footprint which was actually true.
The room in question is in the basement so...
Speaking from experience, don't make the "man cave".
It is a lonely place not often visited by companions.
Eventually you will visit the man cave less also.
And there will be complaining when you crank it from the man cave.
It is better to make the setup look super nice.
That way you can enjoy it in the community space.
word to the wise.
Norman
Ah yes, there's no chance I can take the speakers and the turntable out of the livingroom and into the cave (more like an office really). She likes listening to music (almost) as much as I do.
I'll have to find nicer looking cabinets than these ones (shouldn't be too hard;-) put the 126's in that, then repaint the cabinets and find some new drivers for them and put those in my cave.
I'll have to find nicer looking cabinets than these ones (shouldn't be too hard;-) put the 126's in that, then repaint the cabinets and find some new drivers for them and put those in my cave.
you've already won one lottery my friend,
If she's seen any of the FH3 builds in various galleries, it should be clear that they can be very presentable indeed. Ask about grilles - for reasons mentioned elsewhere, I always try to incorporate those in any build that might spend time in "our" upstairs living room. ( 2 words - buried magnets)
Thanks Chris!
Yes, I am quite lucky
make sure she hears that frequently
I'm not a fan of grilles really, think I'll leave them bare.
Now I need to find me a supplier for an FH3 kit in the wood I want
Ts
Fair enough about the grilles, but if I'm inferring correctly that you mean "solid wood", might I suggest a quality plywood & veneer to taste? For something as small as the microFonkens that Bernie has built for Dave, solids have been can be fine (so far), but I'd worry about long term stability of panels as wide as in the FH3
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Tias,
Most speaker enclosures are made of MDF wood these days and not because it is cheaper than plywood. Plywood unless it is of high quality and therefore price can cause problems with buzzes and delamination. When I use plywood I use only Baltic Birth that is imported as it has much better qualities than any domestic plywood in the States. The layers are much thinner and of better quality and the wood doesn't delaminate. MDF is very dense and has none of those problems. It glues very well and also is very flat and is easy to veneer to. Not that veneering is easy in itself, but it can be done if you take your time and are very careful. I'm sure that many here would help you get through design and building of your cabinets.
Steven
Most speaker enclosures are made of MDF wood these days and not because it is cheaper than plywood. Plywood unless it is of high quality and therefore price can cause problems with buzzes and delamination. When I use plywood I use only Baltic Birth that is imported as it has much better qualities than any domestic plywood in the States. The layers are much thinner and of better quality and the wood doesn't delaminate. MDF is very dense and has none of those problems. It glues very well and also is very flat and is easy to veneer to. Not that veneering is easy in itself, but it can be done if you take your time and are very careful. I'm sure that many here would help you get through design and building of your cabinets.
Steven
I might suggest that the first 2 sentences above are contradictory, and have been on record here for years of recommending "quality" (high ply count) plywood over MDF, for sonic reasons. Yes MDF is definitely cheaper, but considering the total time and other materials involved in a DIY build using even moderately priced drivers, that differential could be swamped by other factors.
There are some excellent quality plywoods manufactured in USA - indeed after exclusively using Russian manufactured Baltic Birch for almost 10years, but suffering occasional supply shortages due to weather conditions in the harvesting areas, and more importantly significant deterioration in quality over the past 2 years (delaminations, core voids, severe splintering / chipping), I've switched to a domestic product - Murphy Hardwood Plywood of Oregon. Yes, it's even more costly than the BB, but superior in every respect. Then of course there are the premium architectural grade products like States Apple Ply, Depending on your aesthetic taste for treatment of the exposed cores, some of these might not need post veneering, which could offset material costs - and at over $150/sheet 3/4" every bit helps.
For example, some gorgeous work by Jon Parkhurst
ApplePly
It is unfortunate that MDF is so prevelant... and it is because it is cheap, bioth to buy and to work (but not necessarily to work with, the dust is particularily noxious).
I personally feel that MDF is not a suitable material to build high quality speaker boxes from. It is not very stiff, and hs issues with energy storage. Much of that from its homogenous nature -- a plywood made from a laminate of very thin MDF sheets handily outperforms a solid sheet of the same thickness. The energy storage is particularily pernious having a big negative impact on the DDR (downward dynamic range) of a loudspeaker.
High quality plywood -- determined by lack of voids and lots of plies (we have just recently switched from Baltic Birch to higher quality Murphy Ply made in Oregon), is a much better material from a sonic soundpoint. If expense be damned, one can go to stranded bamboo plywood -- of a completely different kind of construction than typical ply, it needs more care & consideration with fabrication, but can be finished as is.
Use of MDF is strongly discouraged in both Mikasa & in FH3. Ben (Sound with Style) uses, i believe, a quality plywood made from hoop pine (not really a pine). Being lighter than MDF one of th eimmediate benefits is that it costs less to ship.
dave
There is more than just stiffness at work here. There is also mass involved. I won't argue that plywood isn't stiffer per thickness but there is also the ratio of stiffness to thickness involved. I rarely would see plywood in 1" thickness though you could glue multiple sheets together. So to say that plywood is superior just doesn't really answer the question, that is an incomplete answer.
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