The 'Dales' 2-way speakers

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If you scratch the veneer you can simply rub the area down with fine sandpaper and then re-oil for a invisible repair. Try that with a varnished or laquered finish!!😱


of course damage deep into the veneer itself present a different repair issue, but sanding and french polishing (lacquer padding) can certainly repair minor scratches

on conversion varnish or polyurethane finishes you're right - sometimes not much option other than a complete stripping and refinishing of damaged surfaces

anyways, nice veneering and finishing work Colin
 

Hi Fastbike1,





from your description and the product information it iwould appear to be a similar product as what I use except a different brand name. I use Liberon Finishing Oil Oil Finishes : Finishing Oil - liberon.fr


exactly - there are probably many times more trade names than there are ( minor variations of formulations of ) finishing products themselves
 
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clk230 wrote
Toppsy - can you clarify are you a commercial builder or diyer ?

Basically I am a DIYer that due to forced early retirement am trying to suppliment my income from my hobby. So to some folk this would classify me as a commercial builder, perhaps.

I make all my commission builds by word of mouth off the quality of my personal speaker builds and from general enquiries from folk that ask..........."Colin seen your speakers on the forum any chance you can make me a pair or do you do flat pack kits" etc. I also get asked by folk if I can do specific 1-off builds for them, which I'm glad to do.

I designed the Edales and Edingdales for my own use but when taken to DIY meets they have proved quite popular and especially the Edingdales. So I make these to order as I do for all builds now.
 
For like half a year now I've been looking at building a pair of Econowaves with the Faital Pro 12FH520, B&C DE250 and then something like a sealed CSS TRIO12 for subwoofer duty.
I want to be able to play loud with lots of dynamics, which I can't at the moment with my CSS EL70... I want to be able to play at such levels that it feels live in my ~16sqm room.

Do you think the Edingdales would be a better choice? They sure would be a lot cheaper than the Econowaves and they wouldn't need a subwoofer which the Econowaves would. Do you think the Edingdales can play as loud as I want to? Can they play loud but still clear? I know the Econowaves would be able to make me deaf and still sound clear but how about the Edingdales?
 
Plays plenty loud with dynamics in my room (a bit 🙂 bigger than yours).

MKwT_woofWT-comp.jpg


dave
 
Well, I guess we have different opinions on how loud "loud" is... If I remember correctly you said EL70 could play with lots of dynamics, indeed at very low levels but they can't play loud at all really...

On the Focal JMlab CD 4/7 track #14 there's some really interesting drums. Probably the best drum recording I've heard and with lots of dynamics and "punch" in the bass. My current system isn't even close to being able to play it loud enough to sound realistic. It kind of sounds like the drum kit is a few rooms away, not actually in my room. Say, for a reference I'd like to be able to reproduce a drum kit at realistic level and dynamics and it shall still sound clear. I want to be able to feel the bass in my body as well. I don't know exactly what causes that feeling because I heard the Focal Chorus 826W a few weeks ago and they could make the bass be felt in the body and they could play almost loud enough.
 
Well, I guess we have different opinions on how loud "loud" is... If I remember correctly you said EL70 could play with lots of dynamics, indeed at very low levels but they can't play loud at all really...

The woofTs make a BIG difference (even with only a 100 Hz XO -- measures suggest 125-150 would be better). And IIRC your room is ~40 m^3, mine is ~250 m^3.

dave
 
The woofTs make a BIG difference (even with only a 100 Hz XO -- measures suggest 125-150 would be better). And IIRC your room is ~40 m^3, mine is ~250 m^3.

dave

The woofers I've got now sounds horribly bad at higher frequencies. I don't know the exact XO right now but I played some songs with some mid-bass and turned the XO down until it didn't sound bad any more. I'd guess the XO is 70-80Hz right now and more than that and they start to sound bad.

And how low do they go? 40Hz? 30Hz? 20Hz?
 
And how low do they go? 40Hz? 30Hz? 20Hz?

Lower than the Dales, i'd guess 30 Hz. 2 EL166 in Scott's 32" ML-TL vrs 1 in a BR. They can at times cause tingles in the legs on some bass tracks. I can push them past their comfort zone, but it is getting uncomforatably loud by then (~250 W per channel).

You'll still need a subwoofer for train wrecks (visceral, stomach turning quantities -- at least in my room -- i have 2 push-push SDX10 subs just waiting for an amp). We will eventually get these into a smaller space and see what happens.

dave
 
The latest commission build near in completion. Thought I'd give Matt, the new owner, a taster of what his new speakers will look like when all wired up.

These are skinned in Zebrano veneer and finished with Liberon Finishing Oil and a final coat of wax. I'm rather pleased with the way the oil has brought out the contrasting grain of this wood. Hope Matt feels the same when he sees them.

You can see where they got the name for this veneer from, hey 😉

The keen eyed will notice the drivers are not screwed into the cabinets but just placed in the rebates for the photo taking whilst the sun shines outdoors in my back garden.

ZEBRANO1.JPG
ZEBRANO2.JPG
 
My excellent typing skills (especially seen when i'm on the laptop)/ "b" key right next to the ""v" key. Should be ML-TL vrs BR/

how would you compare the bass of wooft to the original twin el166 ml-tl

Close but not quite as extended or (from memory) as capable when the wick is turned up. With the last of the EL166 coming off the break-in bench. We will be revisting this design, but i want to put another twist on it, and noodling over options.

dave
 
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