Hey Alan, I've built these so far with no probs. I use solid tantalum caps.
I'm originally from Kinver, near Stourbridge
Can't tell you as I got mine for £20 and never listened to it before modding
From experience and talking as a "serial modder" they can sound better or just different. I just love tinkering and I think that because you have done it yourself, and the patient has survived (hopefully) it DOES sound Soooooo much better
Rob.
PS Where in the UK are you?
...or worse, don't forget worse! They can sound better, worse or just different. I think that covers everything. Oh yeah, or silent.
I've been through all of the above. Mine sounded like it was trying to take off at one point. Now it sounds much better than stock to me. I guess the key word in the original question was 'after', i.e. how does it sound when you have finished modding? If you are committed and you draw on the knowledge in this forum then you are most likely to keep going until it sounds better. The bigger question is will there ever be an 'after'?
Yes, good points... I hadn't considered the alternatives of 'worse' and 'silent'.
I've been through all of the above. Mine sounded like it was trying to take off at one point. Now it sounds much better than stock to me. I guess the key word in the original question was 'after', i.e. how does it sound when you have finished modding? If you are committed and you draw on the knowledge in this forum then you are most likely to keep going until it sounds better. The bigger question is will there ever be an 'after'?
I see what you mean... when you start modding it can become a continuous process. Will we ever finish?
I'm looking forward to it!
Hey guys, I've started ordering DOS parts, working pretty much off Brent's list. I ordered some matched pairs of 2SK170BL, but now realize that they probably should've been 2SK170GR. Is that right? I read that the difference is something to do with current range.
I'm getting 1% Cornell Dubilier silver micas for the signal caps, although I was tempted with the SGM 0.3% mica-in-oil ones. I remember some of you were looking at the Amtrans caps too.
I'm not sure if I really need to fit DC blocking caps, as I have the 3.3uF Silver Oils after my amp's input selector switch.
Any more good DOS experiments lately? Any more component ideas for a no-holds-barred DOS build?
I'm getting 1% Cornell Dubilier silver micas for the signal caps, although I was tempted with the SGM 0.3% mica-in-oil ones. I remember some of you were looking at the Amtrans caps too.
I'm not sure if I really need to fit DC blocking caps, as I have the 3.3uF Silver Oils after my amp's input selector switch.
Any more good DOS experiments lately? Any more component ideas for a no-holds-barred DOS build?
Most important for the DOS are decent regs (thats not 317 type!!!)
Seriously, I've just put 9 of my regs in a 67 for a pal that had the usual cap treatment along with a clock, clock psu and output stage upgrade. It was really quite something.
If you want really hi-end, you need decent regs ;-)
Seriously, I've just put 9 of my regs in a 67 for a pal that had the usual cap treatment along with a clock, clock psu and output stage upgrade. It was really quite something.
If you want really hi-end, you need decent regs ;-)
Yep, understood Ian, I'll most likely get some SPowers. I'm mulling the external PSU too. I hope someone can shed some light on those 2SK170s for me - i.e. are all blues OK or do I need greens? Is anyone else building a DOS right now? It's expensive sourcing small numbers of parts bit by bit.
Do you build your regs yourself, Ian?
Do you build your regs yourself, Ian?
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Yep, after the 12th or 13th SPower and realising their massive (understatement) benifits over anything the same size, I set about building my own similar regs. There are other regs which are good like the 317 tracking pre reg but its more difficult to build them small.
Not sure about the 170's. I think the gain may be different on different type (something a poss remember Lee saying to me at some point) so as long as they are all the same type you should be OK. Use Brents mod on the CCS and use RC55Y resistors. Thats what I use and I think Brent the same. If you were feeling really posh, you could use Z-Foil resistors in the filter!!!! I use silvered mica caps in the filter, I think Ray preferers styrene. Final part of the puzzle is the output cap. I use Mundorf Supreme 4.7uF. You really get what you pay for here but its a personal choice. I think Brent now runs Supreme silver/gold/oil......I'm too scared to look up the price of those!!!!
Not sure about the 170's. I think the gain may be different on different type (something a poss remember Lee saying to me at some point) so as long as they are all the same type you should be OK. Use Brents mod on the CCS and use RC55Y resistors. Thats what I use and I think Brent the same. If you were feeling really posh, you could use Z-Foil resistors in the filter!!!! I use silvered mica caps in the filter, I think Ray preferers styrene. Final part of the puzzle is the output cap. I use Mundorf Supreme 4.7uF. You really get what you pay for here but its a personal choice. I think Brent now runs Supreme silver/gold/oil......I'm too scared to look up the price of those!!!!
That's impressive. I won't ask about the economics of it, but I personally really like building things myself for the Lego factor.
The 3.3uF Mundorf Silver/Oils in my amp really were a huge improvement over the 10uF Black Gate ACs I had in there before. I'm still working on the assumption that I don't need another pair 0.5m of cable away.
Well I'll deffo do the micas, but mmmm... Z-foils... PCX is in Canada, and they have sales... Tolerance is only 1% though. Are the RC55Y not better due to their 0.1% tolerance?
Lots to learn. Thanks.
The 3.3uF Mundorf Silver/Oils in my amp really were a huge improvement over the 10uF Black Gate ACs I had in there before. I'm still working on the assumption that I don't need another pair 0.5m of cable away.
Well I'll deffo do the micas, but mmmm... Z-foils... PCX is in Canada, and they have sales... Tolerance is only 1% though. Are the RC55Y not better due to their 0.1% tolerance?
Lots to learn. Thanks.
Lots of effort in the regs but not massively expensive in parts. Very rewarding to build your own on decent PCB after years of vero examples!!!
If you have the caps on the input to the amp, you dont need them on the output of the player. However, be warned, with no caps on the output of the DOS there will be significant DC present.
Those Z Foils come in various tolerances down to 0.005%!!!!!
http://www.texascomponents.com/pdf/Intro_High_Precision.pdf
If you have the caps on the input to the amp, you dont need them on the output of the player. However, be warned, with no caps on the output of the DOS there will be significant DC present.
Those Z Foils come in various tolerances down to 0.005%!!!!!
http://www.texascomponents.com/pdf/Intro_High_Precision.pdf
I was going to fit a further reg near the crystal (no super duper clock fitted yet) as per the Acoustica info. Was not sure where the +/- & Grd tracks are. If you have fitted 9 and more of these, do you have details of where they go (or where you have put them)?
Rob.
Hi Rob, in a 63, there is the potential to split all the power supply rails out. I think i got up to 21 on my 63 before an intermittent fault caused a rebuild which is not yet complete. A good place to start is on the DAC which could have 4 independent regs. You need the service manual to look at the pin connections and tracks. A low noise reg on that DAC analogue is a good place to start then DAC digital. Later you could split these into ana L and R and 2 separate dig. Each device fed off the 5v rail can be fed individually. Often fed via a low ohm resistor, you can replace the resistor with a reg. you can also regulate the servo driver psu. I used 6 SPowers run from a large va psu for this.
Output stage (DOS) 4 (6) regs
DAC 4 regs
Decoder 3 regs
HF amp 1 reg
Servo IC 2 regs
Servo drivers 6 regs
Transport 1 reg
VRef and remaining 5v 1 reg
That's 22 or 24 if you pre reg the DOS PSU!
Look at Brent's build doc on his site. All the details are there ;-)
Output stage (DOS) 4 (6) regs
DAC 4 regs
Decoder 3 regs
HF amp 1 reg
Servo IC 2 regs
Servo drivers 6 regs
Transport 1 reg
VRef and remaining 5v 1 reg
That's 22 or 24 if you pre reg the DOS PSU!
Look at Brent's build doc on his site. All the details are there ;-)
Guys,
Just started modding my 67se problem is I want to bypass the HDAM, I cant seem to find R617 on the PCB? I've even scanned the service manual and cant seem to spot it, perhaps its because its late!! So far as I understand to bypass HDAM it I have to remove
R651/2/3/4
R617/R618
RH23/RH24
Anything else? I've only read the first 100 posts so I have some way to catch up Thanks for your patience
Just started modding my 67se problem is I want to bypass the HDAM, I cant seem to find R617 on the PCB? I've even scanned the service manual and cant seem to spot it, perhaps its because its late!! So far as I understand to bypass HDAM it I have to remove
R651/2/3/4
R617/R618
RH23/RH24
Anything else? I've only read the first 100 posts so I have some way to catch up
Thanks for your patience
To bypass the hdam, you need to bypass the actual hdam circuit. Removing a few components will not just bypass the circuit. What else have you done to the player do far? It probably not a good idea to start with the hdam bypass.
The bypass involves linking the output of the opamp stage directly to the player out. Forget r617 and 618 (617 is under the left channel hdam cover) remove the links u216 and u217 this will give separate the opamp from the hdam. This is where you pick up the output (closest the opamp). Behind the hdam, remove the 4 elna silmic caps. Link the output from the opamp directly to the left most hole where the caps were.
So thats
Link u216 hole closest the front to c658 left hole for the right channel.
Link u217 hole closest the front to c657 left hole for the left channel.
You can remove r651 to 654 as this will remove the power to the hdam
The bypass involves linking the output of the opamp stage directly to the player out. Forget r617 and 618 (617 is under the left channel hdam cover) remove the links u216 and u217 this will give separate the opamp from the hdam. This is where you pick up the output (closest the opamp). Behind the hdam, remove the 4 elna silmic caps. Link the output from the opamp directly to the left most hole where the caps were.
So thats
Link u216 hole closest the front to c658 left hole for the right channel.
Link u217 hole closest the front to c657 left hole for the left channel.
You can remove r651 to 654 as this will remove the power to the hdam
Well it's a stock 67SE, this is my 1st attempt at modding a CD player, my domain is usually decks. The only thing I've done so far is to change the power chord with a screen Isotek Elite lead. I'll be dampening the chasis & strut bar with some bitumin pad is I get chance next week. So just to recap
U216/217 out
R617/618 - FORGET ABOUT
R651/2/3/4 - I'll take these out!
C655/6/7/8 - out (the slimlic caps)
I've just got one question and again forgive me for seeming a little slow. I've added a Schematic graphic on this reply. The red crosses are the components which I'm gonna remove for the HDAM bypass, but can you check that I'm linking the output of the opamp stage directly to the player out. So, on R216 I'll be soldering a small piece of silver wire (teflon coated) from the posterior most hole in R216 to the leftmost hole where C658 used to sit for right channel output, and from R217 I'll be soldering another silver wire from the posterior most hole of U217 to the leftmost hole of C657 for left channel output. I hope this makes sense.
I'm hoping to also looking into disabling the headphone circuit (removing C901/902 & U139/140) and also disabling headphone muting circuit by removing QN05-QN08, QN25/25/91/92 and RN27/28. These are mods as detailed in the PDF by R.A. van der Steen. I was looking at doing several mods at once whilst I had the PCB dismantled.
Attachments
Your blue lines are connected to the wrong end of the links (need to closest to the opamps) you removed but other than that it's fine. Personally, I would not remove the muting to start but it's very easy to remove the headphones feed as you describe. To be honest, unless you replace some caps in the psu and local decoupling to the dac and opamp then change to opamps to lm4562 or similar, you will make it sound worse by just bypassing the hdam.