Correct, it is the same rating as the non-latching switch that Hypex have in their catalogue. It could be used to control a simple relay. I edited my post with the advice to look around (the Farnell web site), because there are many other models. For example a 240V 5A version, which would be fine for direct mains switching of a single SMPS600.
Cheers,
T.
But does that come in a pretty illuminated version?
All the ones I've found (though from other mfgr's) are 24V like this one.
Bruno: sorry to come back to this at this point, but would it be possible to make the "removal" of R141 easier by a simple jumper setting (on-off of the R141 connection) in a version 1.1 of the NC400?I've connected my DAC directly to the NC400's, with the volume control in the digital domain. It delivers 12 dBu, which is 3.09 V. With R141 removed, I get 12.4 dB gain, which is 4.17x. At 0 DBFS from the DAC, that gives me 3.09 x 4.17 = 12.8853 V, which is 20,75W into 8 ohms. Not all that much, but it is actually more than I ever need. I now that, because I never ever reach 0 DBFS from the DAC....
Which also means that I am operating in the range of the NC400 where distortion is almost unmeasureable.
This would make a nice option for people trying to bypass pre-amps.
If people didn't fear SMD so much they'd realise that it is actually easier than through-hole. I think I did all I could to make R141 easily accessible. I mean, seriously, we're 2012 and people are still caught in fits of panic as soon as they find that a part doesn't have wires sticking through the circuit board.
I think it is a general fear for DIY beginners (as me) do touch things directly on the board. Hypex is known for excellent customer service, but I would feel unconfortable sending a board back which I accidentilly would have damaged. So my suggestion was rather meant to make the NC400 even more plug-and-play for optional choices which obviously come up during the discussions. But I can certainly live with the R141 in place and maybe a day of bravery and need removing it.
... But I can certainly live with the R141 in place and maybe a day of bravery and need removing it.
No or very little coffee, normal blood sugar levels and don't try it late at night. Speaking from experience here. That, and indeed what Bruno referred to, good desoldering braid (soder wick or however it's called).
With a little experience soic packages are quite easy to solder (harder to desolder) and a friend of mine even does SOP packacges by hand when necessary. Not me, my hands shake too much for that.
De-soldering is trivial if you have two soldering irons, each with a fine tip.
To solder surface-mount chips, even down to TSSOP, the technique I use is to first of all pre-tin the pads on the board (if the board is gold-plated rather than hot-air levelled tin-plated). Then use the solder-braid to remove the solder from the pads, leaving a very thin layer of solder on the pads to cover the gold.
Place the chip on the pads, and fix it by only soldering two, diagonal corner pins. This will allow you to re-position the chip if required.
Then you do what seems to be rather strange. You flood the other pins and pads with solder! Once that is done, you use the solder braid to remove the excess solder off the pins one by one. Basically you place the end of the solder braid on the pin, then place the tip of the iron on top of the braid, and as the braid absorbs the solder, you slowly pull the braid away, in line with the pin, while still keeping the iron on top to hold the braid in contact with the pcb surface. It takes a while to clear each pin, but it does give a professional look to the soldering, and also clears any pin-to-pin bridges.
It sounds more complicated than it is, but you need to practise on some scrap boards first.
By the way. Solder braid is pre-fluxed, so don't expose too much of it from the plastic spool at a time. The part that is exposed to the air will oxidise and is not as effective.
To solder surface-mount chips, even down to TSSOP, the technique I use is to first of all pre-tin the pads on the board (if the board is gold-plated rather than hot-air levelled tin-plated). Then use the solder-braid to remove the solder from the pads, leaving a very thin layer of solder on the pads to cover the gold.
Place the chip on the pads, and fix it by only soldering two, diagonal corner pins. This will allow you to re-position the chip if required.
Then you do what seems to be rather strange. You flood the other pins and pads with solder! Once that is done, you use the solder braid to remove the excess solder off the pins one by one. Basically you place the end of the solder braid on the pin, then place the tip of the iron on top of the braid, and as the braid absorbs the solder, you slowly pull the braid away, in line with the pin, while still keeping the iron on top to hold the braid in contact with the pcb surface. It takes a while to clear each pin, but it does give a professional look to the soldering, and also clears any pin-to-pin bridges.
It sounds more complicated than it is, but you need to practise on some scrap boards first.
By the way. Solder braid is pre-fluxed, so don't expose too much of it from the plastic spool at a time. The part that is exposed to the air will oxidise and is not as effective.
like the old Egiptians used to say, a video speaks a thousand words:
SMD Chip Desoldering.mpg - YouTube
Desolder a SMD SOIC with only basic tools. - YouTube
non infrared thermal smd soldering desoldering with a lamp - YouTube
SMD Chip Desoldering.mpg - YouTube
Desolder a SMD SOIC with only basic tools. - YouTube
non infrared thermal smd soldering desoldering with a lamp - YouTube
Hi!
First time poster and first time DIYer I have just ordered Ncore + SMPS to build myself two monoblocks. I kind of like the idea of having a blue led somewhere on the chassis to indicate whether the amps are on or off. My question is where I should connect the led (from where should it be powered)?
1) Is there an available pin on the power supply that can drive a Led? If yes, than at what voltage (230v mains)?
2) If no pin, what are my options? Connect the led with resistor to the on/off switch thereby getting power from the mains?
Sorry if these questions have an obvious answer and is easily found in the documentation provided by Hypex. This is my first DIYer project and not all terminology is easily understood for a first timer
First time poster and first time DIYer
I have just ordered Ncore + SMPS to build myself two monoblocks. I kind of like the idea of having a blue led somewhere on the chassis to indicate whether the amps are on or off. My question is where I should connect the led (from where should it be powered)?1) Is there an available pin on the power supply that can drive a Led? If yes, than at what voltage (230v mains)?
2) If no pin, what are my options? Connect the led with resistor to the on/off switch thereby getting power from the mains?
Sorry if these questions have an obvious answer and is easily found in the documentation provided by Hypex. This is my first DIYer project and not all terminology is easily understood for a first timer
Got reply from HFX:
[snip]
The internal size of the device is 34cm(w)*35,8cm(depth)*4.7cm(h).
[snip]
ncore fits, but not the smps600
I have decided to order (2) PRAL-15307C all aluminum enclosures from THL Audio to use for the build of my NCore monoblocks.
I ordered my enclosure from them for my UCD400s and it was just one of their basic enclosures. It was sufficient and I thought the quality was equivalent to the price. These enclosures will be considerably more expensive, but from their website, the enclosures look much more elegant and the specifications indicate that they are much more substantial. I will order black enclosures to match my transport and DAC.
I will try to post some pics and impressions when I get them. More importantly, I want to have them here when my NCores arrive.
I ordered my enclosure from them for my UCD400s and it was just one of their basic enclosures. It was sufficient and I thought the quality was equivalent to the price. These enclosures will be considerably more expensive, but from their website, the enclosures look much more elegant and the specifications indicate that they are much more substantial. I will order black enclosures to match my transport and DAC.
I will try to post some pics and impressions when I get them. More importantly, I want to have them here when my NCores arrive.
So you're saying the height of the smps600 without any spacers is 40mm?
Much more fun
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I just designed and built my first SMD amplifier (Class AB) and have to say there are pro's and con's. The pro's for me were making it single layer with everything on the top side for easy access and probing - that may not be the case with multi-layer boards. I also found soldering pretty quick and and easy for everything except SOT-363 parts (which I had a friend do!), all the resistors were 1206 size - just large enough to make it easy to read the values. You use far less solder and I didn't even find it necessary to pre-tin the landing pads. Making changes does require two soldering irons and I haven't had to tackle removing parts with more than 2 solder points yet. If I were to do it over, I would recommend SMD for complex high frequency circuits but I'd still use through-hole for simple designs because re-working and experimenting is so much easier.
From the bottom of the board to the top of the module, yes, but there's lead wires and SMD on the bottom.
Definitely. There was a bit of a discussion about SMD with regards to R141. Not that I agree with Bigun. Once you get the hang of SMD, reworking is a lot faster than leaded.Are you at the right thread??
guys, there are a lot of cheap hot air rework Chinese stations on ebay. they're not half as bad as you would think. the tech guy at my ex employer used one of those and the company (a rather large big name in automotive) wasn't exactly cheap, LeCroys and Yokogawas were all over the place. I watched him desolder and resolder large QFP MCUs (we used to burn one after the other). didn't seem like much of a big deal once you have decent tools and some skill.
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