My proposed crossover uses almost similar component values. It means that while building the proven design from Murray, the first order filter can also be tried. If it work without intolerable peak, it must have strength. The over exposed midrange is not a problem ime, it is suitable to be used in TL enclosure.
A beginner ( or similar...) is not a tweaker: needs something proven and bullet proof !!!
A beginner ( or similar...) is not a tweaker: needs something proven and bullet proof !!!
You have to be careful with compensation circuitry. They are evil!
Surprise! Murray Zelligman chooses this combo for some reason. In my experience, to get the best from both good woofer and good tweeter sometime I have to find a way to marry 2 drivers that when using theoretical filter simply will not work.
Agree. I believe that each cone material has its own character/signature. To get seamless blend and to make the speaker disappear, the character should be similar. I don't know, may be magnesium cone should go with Focal tioxid tweeter?
Lohan already mention it (40ltr). But no baffle width as I can remember.
Granted. If I had the drivers it wouldn't be a minimalistic design such as Murray's. But without having the drivers, it is impossible Arty. Complex filter tend to give fatigue (IMD?) that is not shown by measurements. Only by listening you can avoid it.
I do not know, i like to have drivers that have well overlaping usable freqvency range.
crossover distorsion is allways a pain, no need to have the additional problems of drivers run on the edge.
but it may just be me, seems others like the combination of these 2 drivers, seems like it is just not my style
as far as for listening fatigue, i would probably think the current state of those speakers is easyli defeated.
i know it is 2 different approaches, one that uses only the absolute minimalistic number of components, and an other that uses the whole arsenal. Not commited to any, both are fine.
maybe 3rd order is a bit optimistic without RL mesurements, but i would think high quality drivers tend to be more homogenic and provide enough to dare and attempt it
Will see what the owner says, actualy it is all his/her decision anyways.
The suggested pre-made xover seems absolute fine, fits my own school for choosen xover point.
(3 to 4 times Fs at 2nd order) so i could not have anything against it at all.
crossover distorsion is allways a pain, no need to have the additional problems of drivers run on the edge.
but it may just be me, seems others like the combination of these 2 drivers, seems like it is just not my style
as far as for listening fatigue, i would probably think the current state of those speakers is easyli defeated.
i know it is 2 different approaches, one that uses only the absolute minimalistic number of components, and an other that uses the whole arsenal. Not commited to any, both are fine.
maybe 3rd order is a bit optimistic without RL mesurements, but i would think high quality drivers tend to be more homogenic and provide enough to dare and attempt it
Will see what the owner says, actualy it is all his/her decision anyways.
The suggested pre-made xover seems absolute fine, fits my own school for choosen xover point.
(3 to 4 times Fs at 2nd order) so i could not have anything against it at all.
good thinking batman
I have decided to try out the Seas desingened crossover for the trym!
What I want to know though is the following:
1. the resistors do not set out the wattage;
2. I want to know if the polyprop capacitors from MAplins will be good enough, or should I get better quality ones;
3. should I make up a pcb, or should I use the tag type board;
4. on the positive input can I run a single circuit to the woofer, and a single circuit to the treble. The reason I ask this is because I intend to make outboard cross-overs, so that if I need to fiddle around with it, I don't have to keep taking the whole speaker apart
I really appreciate all the kind input I am getting on this forum.
I am having some difficulty uploading images at the moment, but will do so on monday, along with the full box Height, width, and depth measurements.
thanks once again
Instead of trying to reinvent the wheel without the skills nor the tools, the safer way is imho to use a proven design with those drivers.
This one is by Seas, and i hope they know better their job than their dealers...
THE ART OF SOUND PERFECTION BY SEAS - Trym
I have decided to try out the Seas desingened crossover for the trym!
What I want to know though is the following:
1. the resistors do not set out the wattage;
2. I want to know if the polyprop capacitors from MAplins will be good enough, or should I get better quality ones;
3. should I make up a pcb, or should I use the tag type board;
4. on the positive input can I run a single circuit to the woofer, and a single circuit to the treble. The reason I ask this is because I intend to make outboard cross-overs, so that if I need to fiddle around with it, I don't have to keep taking the whole speaker apart
I really appreciate all the kind input I am getting on this forum.
I am having some difficulty uploading images at the moment, but will do so on monday, along with the full box Height, width, and depth measurements.
thanks once again
2. I want to know if the polyprop capacitors from MAplins will be good enough, or should I get better quality ones;
Polyprop is polyprop, isn't it? Maplin or else is a brand name and this has nothing to see with quality grades...
Btw, even cheap elytics and iron core inductors sound great in a good design.
Do yourself a favor and forget about brandings. Just stick to getting the stuff with the needed specs.
3. should I make up a pcb,
If you forecast to produce many hundreds, it might be a good idea and will boost your productivity.
Polyprop is polyprop, isn't it? Maplin or else is a brand name and this has nothing to see with quality grades...
Btw, even cheap elytics and iron core inductors sound great in a good design.
Do yourself a favor and forget about brandings. Just stick to getting the stuff with the needed specs.
3. should I make up a pcb,
If you forecast to produce many hundreds, it might be a good idea and will boost your productivity.
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Polyprop is polyprop, isn't it? Maplin or else is a brand name and this has nothing to see with quality grades...
Btw, even cheap elytics and iron core inductors sound great in a good design.
Do yourself a favor and forget about brandings. Just stick to getting the stuff with the needed specs.
No, GDO. Mundorf is better than Solen. It is just about money. For speakers, I concentrate on good design with Solen MKP as the standard best price-to-performance ratio. Only when I cannot improve more on the design I will use expensive cap. But I always try so no time for expensive cap
Is it better to use it higher? Yes and as for your situation, I'm sorry about that, and it's unfortunate, but that isn't the same driver. Here's what SL had to say about the excel:
I've decided to buy some caps from IPL make - this is my first proper modification project, and if it all goes terribly wrong, then I will not have broken the bank.
I think that if this does go according to plan, then I may fiddle around with some different capacitors, or just sit back and enjoy for awhile.
As to the resistors in the circuit what is the wattage value i need? - this is made with reference to the SEAS TRYM circuit on the SEAS website.
I think that if this does go according to plan, then I may fiddle around with some different capacitors, or just sit back and enjoy for awhile.
As to the resistors in the circuit what is the wattage value i need? - this is made with reference to the SEAS TRYM circuit on the SEAS website.
Cap brands won't make any audible difference. All poly caps are basically pretty damn good as long as the tolerances aren't totally wild... I think even 10% tolerance is fine.... remember we're usually talking +/-.5 db levels of difference in the measured acoustic change here. Even something like placement or tube amp coloration will have a bigger effect than that!
Make sure to use Air Core inductors though - if any component actually, audibly affects sound quality it's the inductor.
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Hah! I see from the edit that you realized your error, and that batteries do make a difference. I converted my Tice Clock to run on Sanyo eneloop rechargables and now everything in the room sounds better. Learning from that example I put eneloops in my minimaglight (like night and day the difference, especially compared to the previous dead Duracells) and in all my remotes, and the even greater improvement in the overall sound field from that mod is simply unbelievable.
Say what you will about changing batteries (or what you won't, after editing), but in my experience it makes a big difference . . .
Current update
I have decided to hold fire on copying the trym crossover until I have posted some further measurements of the cabinet.
Internal dimensions:
Height 455mm
Width 235mm
depth 305 mm
External dimensions
Height: 544mm
Width: 322mm
Depth: 395mm
The reason for the large external dimensions is due to using an inner box of plywood and an external box of MDF
I have a port which is 80mm (I have not cut it down yet)
I am dicing on whether or not I should build a whole new cabinet - scrapping my first effort, or alternatively fettle with the crossover?
I considered the Trym, but that has a cabinet which is about 3 litres smaller, has a smaller port, and the port is in the front.
I am trying to make a very clean and neutral loudspeaker. if you PM me ur e-mail address I can e-mail you diagrams of the speaker dimensions, and also the current crossover - which is simply not much cop!
Please help me
I have decided to hold fire on copying the trym crossover until I have posted some further measurements of the cabinet.
Internal dimensions:
Height 455mm
Width 235mm
depth 305 mm
External dimensions
Height: 544mm
Width: 322mm
Depth: 395mm
The reason for the large external dimensions is due to using an inner box of plywood and an external box of MDF
I have a port which is 80mm (I have not cut it down yet)
I am dicing on whether or not I should build a whole new cabinet - scrapping my first effort, or alternatively fettle with the crossover?
I considered the Trym, but that has a cabinet which is about 3 litres smaller, has a smaller port, and the port is in the front.
I am trying to make a very clean and neutral loudspeaker. if you PM me ur e-mail address I can e-mail you diagrams of the speaker dimensions, and also the current crossover - which is simply not much cop!
Please help me
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