I think many of you may be interested in this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/188941-buffalo-iii-flexibility-without-compromise.html
Cheers!
Russ
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/188941-buffalo-iii-flexibility-without-compromise.html
Cheers!
Russ
Nearly all items for BII are currently sold out.
Does anybody know when they (Tridents combo, HD Placid) will be available again ? 😕
Does anybody know when they (Tridents combo, HD Placid) will be available again ? 😕
That's the current plan.
I may be able to build a handful more Buffalo II's for those looking to complete dual mono pairs and such.
I may be able to build a handful more Buffalo II's for those looking to complete dual mono pairs and such.
I am using BII with a tweaked Squezebox Touch.
I heard, that i can get probably better sound from coax spdif when i will use small pulse transformer at the spdif input of my BII pcb. What transformer should i use exactly ?
In the diyaudio thread about Touch three types where mentionned - Newava S22083, Newava S22160 and Murata DA101C pulse transformer.
Digi-Key - 470-1003-ND (Manufacturer - S22083)
Digi-Key - 470-1004-ND (Manufacturer - S22160)
MURATA POWER SOLUTIONS|DA101C|TRANSFORMER, DADT, 1.00-1.59MH | Farnell United Kingdom
Which of them will be the best in this application ? Or is there another type i should use ?
Naim DAC is using at the input Murata transformers. Anybody knows which type it is exactly ?
I heard, that i can get probably better sound from coax spdif when i will use small pulse transformer at the spdif input of my BII pcb. What transformer should i use exactly ?
In the diyaudio thread about Touch three types where mentionned - Newava S22083, Newava S22160 and Murata DA101C pulse transformer.
Digi-Key - 470-1003-ND (Manufacturer - S22083)
Digi-Key - 470-1004-ND (Manufacturer - S22160)
MURATA POWER SOLUTIONS|DA101C|TRANSFORMER, DADT, 1.00-1.59MH | Farnell United Kingdom
Which of them will be the best in this application ? Or is there another type i should use ?
Naim DAC is using at the input Murata transformers. Anybody knows which type it is exactly ?
Has anyone used a pulse transformer at the spdif input? I too am curious about your experience 🙂
I wonder if anyone has a recommendation for the connection between my 75 ohm SPDIF input (Neutrik BNC; ground isolated) for my BuffaloII and the board itself. There is only going to be about 2 or 3 inches of wire/cable at most involved here; what would be the practical effect (measureable and audible) of using something like RG 316 (Mil C-17G) coax there, which has a characteristic impedance of 50 ohms?
Everything else in my setup, from the CD player digital out jack to the Buffalo BNC will be (supposedly) 75 ohms, although I am relying on a nominal "75 ohm" rating for my BNC interconnect cable, and I will initially be using an "adaptor" to go from the BNC cable to a phono jack on the CD player end (and I hear there is, strictly speaking, no such thing as a 75 ohm phono jack.) At some point, maybe I will mod the CD player digital out jack and install a new Neutrik BNC connector, space permitting.
Am I making a mountain out of a molehill here? Would a twisted pair of nice, telflon-insulated hookup wire work just as well for the SPDIF input to my Buffalo? Or should I go the whole nine yards and search out some skinny 75 ohm stuff like RG179/U to remain a 75 ohm purist? So far, I see only 100 or 1000 foot rolls of that stuff available from the major purveyors, although maybe Steve at Apex Jr. can come to the rescue with an inch or three of quality PTFE 75ohm stuff. (RG 59 cable seems just too darned fat and stiff to curve around gently in my available chassis space).
[I must say. Things were simpler when i built my first Marshall Leach amp about 35 years ago, and any old crap (even--horrors!-- a couple of Radio Junk Shop components went into that). Jung, and Marsh, and all the guys writing about parts quality, and stuff like that, have stolen my bravado over the years. Plus, I don't know my *^$ from a hole in the ground about digital. That's why I'm being such a nervous nellie about all this. This is basically the classic problem of raised expectations.
Please advise. And thanks for your forbearance.
Everything else in my setup, from the CD player digital out jack to the Buffalo BNC will be (supposedly) 75 ohms, although I am relying on a nominal "75 ohm" rating for my BNC interconnect cable, and I will initially be using an "adaptor" to go from the BNC cable to a phono jack on the CD player end (and I hear there is, strictly speaking, no such thing as a 75 ohm phono jack.) At some point, maybe I will mod the CD player digital out jack and install a new Neutrik BNC connector, space permitting.
Am I making a mountain out of a molehill here? Would a twisted pair of nice, telflon-insulated hookup wire work just as well for the SPDIF input to my Buffalo? Or should I go the whole nine yards and search out some skinny 75 ohm stuff like RG179/U to remain a 75 ohm purist? So far, I see only 100 or 1000 foot rolls of that stuff available from the major purveyors, although maybe Steve at Apex Jr. can come to the rescue with an inch or three of quality PTFE 75ohm stuff. (RG 59 cable seems just too darned fat and stiff to curve around gently in my available chassis space).
[I must say. Things were simpler when i built my first Marshall Leach amp about 35 years ago, and any old crap (even--horrors!-- a couple of Radio Junk Shop components went into that). Jung, and Marsh, and all the guys writing about parts quality, and stuff like that, have stolen my bravado over the years. Plus, I don't know my *^$ from a hole in the ground about digital. That's why I'm being such a nervous nellie about all this. This is basically the classic problem of raised expectations.
Please advise. And thanks for your forbearance.
Zapped,
Have a look at Buffalo DAC and hiFace - Buffalo DAC - Twisted Pear Audio Support There are some good suggestions there.
Have a look at Buffalo DAC and hiFace - Buffalo DAC - Twisted Pear Audio Support There are some good suggestions there.
SPDIF input cabling
I have about a two inch run from my BNC (75 ohm, Amphenol) input jack to the B-II board. I have used both 75 ohm coax cable (mil surplus, silver plated copper, teflon, 33 awg) and twisted pair wire (24 awg silver/teflon). Both seemed to work fine, with no discernable audible differences. I solder direct to the B-II board. IMO, the solder joints alone are not going to maintain perfect impedance matching, so going to the trouble of using true 75 ohm coax for such a short distance is not worth it. I would go ahead and mod your source with a good 75 ohm BNC though-I have found that difference to be quite audible vs using an adapter/RCA.
If you want some 75 ohm cable to try, PM me and I will send you 6" of the stuff I have to use, just post your findings for us.
I have about a two inch run from my BNC (75 ohm, Amphenol) input jack to the B-II board. I have used both 75 ohm coax cable (mil surplus, silver plated copper, teflon, 33 awg) and twisted pair wire (24 awg silver/teflon). Both seemed to work fine, with no discernable audible differences. I solder direct to the B-II board. IMO, the solder joints alone are not going to maintain perfect impedance matching, so going to the trouble of using true 75 ohm coax for such a short distance is not worth it. I would go ahead and mod your source with a good 75 ohm BNC though-I have found that difference to be quite audible vs using an adapter/RCA.
If you want some 75 ohm cable to try, PM me and I will send you 6" of the stuff I have to use, just post your findings for us.
Russ and Brian use the Newava S22083 transformer in their SPDIF mux.
S/PDIF 4:1 Receiver/MUX Module
Thats a good enough recommendation for me.
IIRC - the galvanic isolation from the transformer separates the digital grounds from the two systems. This is helpful when the source is computer based such as the Squeezebox, since it keeps noise from the switching power supply from making its way into the DAC ground system.
Buffalo II dual mono arduino control
I use a Buffalo II in dual mono setup. Fot the moment i use the usb to i2s input only. I already have a 4-1 mux board an a volumite. So far i've been waiting for a controller solution (AC1, AC2) but with no near release date i would try to use a solution with an arduino board. There is a very fine blog (H i F i D U I N O) for a normal stereo Buffalo II. Has anyone set up such a thing for a dual mono setup? The hifiduino solution works with the single Buffalo and the Firmware-chip in place. The volumite on dual mono Buffalo works with firmware chips removed from Buffalos and address jumper set on right Buffalo (it give this board an other address). How would I have to go with dual mono and arduino? I think I also would have to set the address jumper but leave the firmware chips on each board in place? Should I use the same instructions for both bards only with the diffenert address?
So many questions. Thank you for any help.
Branko
I use a Buffalo II in dual mono setup. Fot the moment i use the usb to i2s input only. I already have a 4-1 mux board an a volumite. So far i've been waiting for a controller solution (AC1, AC2) but with no near release date i would try to use a solution with an arduino board. There is a very fine blog (H i F i D U I N O) for a normal stereo Buffalo II. Has anyone set up such a thing for a dual mono setup? The hifiduino solution works with the single Buffalo and the Firmware-chip in place. The volumite on dual mono Buffalo works with firmware chips removed from Buffalos and address jumper set on right Buffalo (it give this board an other address). How would I have to go with dual mono and arduino? I think I also would have to set the address jumper but leave the firmware chips on each board in place? Should I use the same instructions for both bards only with the diffenert address?
So many questions. Thank you for any help.
Branko
The main caps in Placid and BP Placid are "relatively" small - 1000/35 and 2x1000/35.
Does it make sense to change them for a caps with greater capacity ?
Does it make sense to change them for a caps with greater capacity ?
No, that wouldn't hurt, specially if you are planning to drive something that takes a lot of current.
The Arduino solution also requires that you remove the on-board firmware. Set the jumper on one of the boards. The instructions for both of the boards is the same except that you set the board as MONO (which require that you understand the registers) and you write to registers at two different addresses.
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