Purchased a 63 ki off richie bouy a member on here skipping fault so i replaced the laser still skips wtf dunno what to try next the laser out the ki performs great in a 63 ive got dunno what to try next.
pain me lmao alan
pain me lmao alan
Alan, the cd52 is the better sounding player if you prefer a warmer sound, but the CD63 is amazingly well-proven in terms of mods and the gains they bring!
I could have told you you'd not like the HDAM bypass without other serious work (in fact, didn't I tell you?) lol. Don't worry though, the servo mods will make big gains with ZERO negatives, unless the machine functions erratically due to regs not having enough juice / headroom. That is only if you go as far as putting those regs in though.
Stabby, Ian's advice regarding the resistor/wire link regulator placement is exactly what I'd have said had I not been eating pizza or in the pub. Thanks Ian!
I could have told you you'd not like the HDAM bypass without other serious work (in fact, didn't I tell you?) lol. Don't worry though, the servo mods will make big gains with ZERO negatives, unless the machine functions erratically due to regs not having enough juice / headroom. That is only if you go as far as putting those regs in though.
Stabby, Ian's advice regarding the resistor/wire link regulator placement is exactly what I'd have said had I not been eating pizza or in the pub. Thanks Ian!
Fair play simon,Alan, the cd52 is the better sounding player if you prefer a warmer sound, but the CD63 is amazingly well-proven in terms of mods and the gains they bring!
I could have told you you'd not like the HDAM bypass without other serious work (in fact, didn't I tell you?) lol. Don't worry though, the servo mods will make big gains with ZERO negatives, unless the machine functions erratically due to regs not having enough juice / headroom. That is only if you go as far as putting those regs in though.
Stabby, Ian's advice regarding the resistor/wire link regulator placement is exactly what I'd have said had I not been eating pizza or in the pub. Thanks Ian!
need the regs done may i email that ok. ;
cheers alan
Gentlemen,
i have a question about this coax mod (cd63) -drive > hf-amp- : How do i connect the shield without creating a ground-loop? I was searching the thread but couldn't find a clear answer.
I was told to connect the shield always at both ends, otherwise it would work as an antenna, picking up noise...
Some comments from those who already performed this mod?
Regards,
Mickie
i have a question about this coax mod (cd63) -drive > hf-amp- : How do i connect the shield without creating a ground-loop? I was searching the thread but couldn't find a clear answer.
I was told to connect the shield always at both ends, otherwise it would work as an antenna, picking up noise...
Some comments from those who already performed this mod?
Regards,
Mickie
People normally say connect at one end only! Connect your shield at the source end only, though I'm sure either end would be fine and both ends not so good!
Simon
Simon
I also only ever connect the shield to gnd at one end. Normally the source. I think the reason is to do with gnd loops. In an ideal world with a star gnd, each end of the circuit would have it's own individual path back to the star point. Best to try and avoid gnd loops cos they can be a right pain!!!
Wow what a huge thread !!!
Have anyone tried to change TCA0372 with LM3886 ?
This should work at +/-12v voltage supply quite well.
I plan to implement such mod into an AvantGarde CDI and I wonder if someone have some experience.
Thanks/Regards,
Tibi
I'm quoting this from page 663 as I was wondering if anyone had done such extensive modding on their servo section yet?
What got me thinking about it is the clearly superior (to most players) sound of the Marantz CD94 which, amongst other things, has a beefier servo section than later and/or cheaper players.
When this was raised 3 years ago it was shot down by Martin Clark as unlikely to be an improvement, but I'd at least like to know what else, then, makes the CD94 such a monster. I get the feeling that other players with a similar chipset will always lack a certain something even with extremely extensive mods. I have my reasons for saying this and wondered if anyone here knew about those parts of the old players and how it could be used to upgrade something like a CD63/7.
Simon
Now this servo talk again.....🙂
There is no smoke without fire.... I am beguining to believe the servo mods (upgrading psu.. etc) are really some of the most important mods around.
There is no smoke without fire.... I am beguining to believe the servo mods (upgrading psu.. etc) are really some of the most important mods around.
Without a doubt.
Brent
Yep, I agree.
A properly sorted servo section brings much better bass and a more cohesive relaxing and realistic sound. More "analogue".
Lee.
You can do the 63 without regulating and/or with regulating the servo driver psu, of course regualiting improves further. The one thing that needs sorting regardless is the psu. Disconnecting the tx for the +/- 10V is required and fit in the player a 2x 12V 30va - 50va tx to supply these rails. It makes a massive improvement. You can then run the regs at +/- 12V dc
Brent
Brent
I have a dedicated psu for the servo chip with local sregs and a clock but i did not regulate the drivers. I had a misfortune while doing it and blew one of the driver opamps so I decided to leave them alone... The pcb is quite damaged in that place. I am sorry I did not know better in those days 🙂
I will keep it in mind when I get another cd53 to work on.
I will keep it in mind when I get another cd53 to work on.
Guess that's the best solution, though I'd like making one.
I've already tried a couple stereo system remotes though. Doesn't work...
Stabby, If you still want that cd63 remote, message me your address and i'll put it in the post. I don't want anything for it. I never use them. I send the wife to change tracks!
Think I may have bitten off more than I can chew guys! Still cant seem to get the unit to power up at all, also the solder I bought through eBay doesn't go shiny after use, its more like a dull silver...its supposed to be multicore branded 4% silver.
Tried the mains input but no luck. Just to check the neutral (blue) should be soldered to cold and the live (brown) should be soldered to hot?
Running out of ideas and thinking that this might not have been such a good idea after all!
Adam 🙁
Tried the mains input but no luck. Just to check the neutral (blue) should be soldered to cold and the live (brown) should be soldered to hot?
Running out of ideas and thinking that this might not have been such a good idea after all!
Adam 🙁
Hi guys,
Shorted the fuse holders out 22,ooo uf caps on the psu what a difference players came to life punchy bass tricky fitting the caps in tho [extended wires and a glue gun ) .
cheers alan
Shorted the fuse holders out 22,ooo uf caps on the psu what a difference players came to life punchy bass tricky fitting the caps in tho [extended wires and a glue gun ) .
cheers alan
What you doing adam iec conversion,Think I may have bitten off more than I can chew guys! Still cant seem to get the unit to power up at all, also the solder I bought through eBay doesn't go shiny after use, its more like a dull silver...its supposed to be multicore branded 4% silver.
Tried the mains input but no luck. Just to check the neutral (blue) should be soldered to cold and the live (brown) should be soldered to hot?
Running out of ideas and thinking that this might not have been such a good idea after all!
Adam 🙁
CHEERS ALAN
🙂
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