I'm guessing that there IS real gas somewhere, but it isn't in the tubes! It is probably in the minds of the ad campaign people. It is by far more amusing than most of what flows out of the TV set though.
I may look into these chassis when someone other than the catalog distributors picks them up. Digi-key and Mouser tend to gouge for their Hammond stuff.
George, that "stone" finish paint looks nice - I'll have to pick some up the next time I shop at the Evil Orange. Is it easier to manage than wrinkle coat?
George, that "stone" finish paint looks nice - I'll have to pick some up the next time I shop at the Evil Orange. Is it easier to manage than wrinkle coat?
Since I have never had good luck with wrinkle paint I would have to say yes.
Shake the can well and start the spray off of the item being painted since the first spray is mostly just black paint. I taped the top plate to a piece of cardboard and oversprayed at least 8 inches in all directions to get an even pattern on the metal. Still used only half the can. I primed the bare metal first with flat black paint (that's what I had).
I tried a kind called Stonecraft on a breadbox built in shop class. It comes in a box and has two cans. The first can is the stone paint and the second can is a clear overcoat. This stuff had a shiny finish to it and was almost smooth.
The amp top plate was "Valspar Stone" that was a single can. It is possible that I may have got it at Lowes. Lowes and HD are near each other, and I shop at both. It was probably HD though. To me it looks better and has a textured finish. It is also much cheaper. I don't know how well it would hold up on something that gets handled a lot. You can see where it has lifted around the transformer mounting holes. Since I had the transformers mounted with 8-32 screws, I would expect that.
Hello All,
The new Hammond chassis looks pretty nice. It also looks very DIY, like a DIYer built it himself.
I breadboard or prototype stuff and sometimes take it apart and use the tubes, transformers and things for the next one. I started with a chunk of ¾ Baltic birch ply that looked like a breadboard. Then I moved to plastic pegboard. The problem with these materials is they are no longer allowed in the house. Now I have a few chassis that look much like the new Hammond. I am sure they could be finished cleaner. They are fitted with 9-pins or 8-pins, one has both, sockets RCA connectors and stepped attenuators. Inside they are fitted with various euro strip connectors. It is easy to swap out resistors bypass capacitors and change things. The tops are drilled with various holes for output transformers. These toys are never finished but they can come in the house. One fits a Simple SE. Too many holes put on a new top.
A small Delta drill press helps as do a couple of Greenlee punches and hole saws.
There is a metal supplier in West Sacrament that will cut metal top plate or perf sheet for cheap.
PRODUCTS
DT
All Just for fun.
The new Hammond chassis looks pretty nice. It also looks very DIY, like a DIYer built it himself.
I breadboard or prototype stuff and sometimes take it apart and use the tubes, transformers and things for the next one. I started with a chunk of ¾ Baltic birch ply that looked like a breadboard. Then I moved to plastic pegboard. The problem with these materials is they are no longer allowed in the house. Now I have a few chassis that look much like the new Hammond. I am sure they could be finished cleaner. They are fitted with 9-pins or 8-pins, one has both, sockets RCA connectors and stepped attenuators. Inside they are fitted with various euro strip connectors. It is easy to swap out resistors bypass capacitors and change things. The tops are drilled with various holes for output transformers. These toys are never finished but they can come in the house. One fits a Simple SE. Too many holes put on a new top.
A small Delta drill press helps as do a couple of Greenlee punches and hole saws.
There is a metal supplier in West Sacrament that will cut metal top plate or perf sheet for cheap.
PRODUCTS
DT
All Just for fun.
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So far nobody has mentioned finishing their wood DIY chassis. For me, it takes more time to spray, wet sand, polish, screw it up, repeat, etc then the actual wood & metal working.
Well I'm sold, and will pick up 3 of the 17x10's. This is the godsend I've been waiting for. They have no competition, and will get a lot of orders I'm sure. I just wish I could see a pic of the walnut on a delivered unit. The suppled pics are very close to what I've been hoping for!
While I don't know if I will ever get one, these chassis fill a much-needed niche. I just wish Hammond could make an aluminum chassis that is more than 10" deep. They have a steel chassis that is 17x13 and those extra couple of inches are really helpful on a tube amp.
Plus, its the only real option if you want something in the 3" height. I wish they made a 10x12x3 or a 8x12x3 or 8x10x3.....
They have these new enclosures too that are in larger sizes, There pretty nice too.
Hammond Mfg. - Steel Chassis & Bottom Plates with Walnut Side Panels (1441 CWW & 1431 Series)
Hammond Mfg. - Steel Chassis & Bottom Plates with Walnut Side Panels (1441 CWW & 1431 Series)
That's too small for me for the half dozen projects that I need to case up.
I don't understand why they are only offering such small sizes. I would really like to see something in the 12" to 14" deep range.
Indeed. They have a 17x13x3 plain or black steel chassis, but that's it. It's the perfect size but rather boring and not the ideal material. Their aluminum chassis are a bit flimsy for heavy transformers, so perhaps that is why they limit them to 10" deep. I usually have to brace the bottom of them with some 2" angle stock as it is. But for these wooden chassis, the 10" limitation seems arbitrary.
I like to use front panel express for my metal work they do a beautiful job and I can get them anadized in many colors and I can get them thick enough.
Frontpanelexpress.com
Frontpanelexpress.com
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At my former employ there was a picture frame shop (Poinz knows the place). At the shop we toyed with using picture frame molding on edge for chassis. I.E., the face of the frame that you usually see would be the vertical sides of the box. It just means turning the molding 90 degrees when cutting it.
This allows a HUGE variety of styles, shapes, colors, finishes. Most amp chassis are rather small when compared to picture frames. But at the cost of most frame shops, the price may be out of sight.
This allows a HUGE variety of styles, shapes, colors, finishes. Most amp chassis are rather small when compared to picture frames. But at the cost of most frame shops, the price may be out of sight.
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