Thanks for the excellent walk through. I have read George's guide and am familiar with the "one hand behind the back" principle. Actually, the Tubelab Simple SE was my first project.
Once my shipment arrives I'll test this out.
Thanks!
Ah, great!
In that case, after measurement, you could change R7 and R16 to the optimum value for the 6CG7.
(3k9 instead of 2k, if I'm correct)
Or you could go in dirty and replace one resistor (R7 or R16) with a 5k trimmer and adjust for 1/3 of the available B+ (you can measure that on the large capacitor close to the volume pot) on pin 3 of the 6CG7.
In that case, after measurement, you could change R7 and R16 to the optimum value for the 6CG7.
(3k9 instead of 2k, if I'm correct)
Or you could go in dirty and replace one resistor (R7 or R16) with a 5k trimmer and adjust for 1/3 of the available B+ (you can measure that on the large capacitor close to the volume pot) on pin 3 of the 6CG7.
Triode version with lower Zout PI
Not finished soldering, but here's the schematic...
6P15P's biassed a bit hotter, Rk should be around 180 Ohm, in my case, I'll have to do with 330 and 390 parallel.
Already added the 100 Ohm resistor between anode and g2 of the power tubes, g2 ran over spec without it. I used 100 Ohm now, will try lower later...
Lowered Zout of the concertina PI, tubes I intend to use (6N1P, E88CC and even ECC85) can take the current. (might even be happier with more current)
Chose 100k for the anode load of the driver stage, R7 and R16 will be temprorary trimmers, just to be able to try every tube with the right bias.
--> did not change te feedback loop yet, will have to do that later.
On the schematic, black values were from the original schematic, blue values are the actual values from my stock GV1, red values will be mounted asap...
Unless someone sees a stupid mistake or a grave misjudgement in component choice/calculation.
Thanks for your feedback!
Not finished soldering, but here's the schematic...
6P15P's biassed a bit hotter, Rk should be around 180 Ohm, in my case, I'll have to do with 330 and 390 parallel.
Already added the 100 Ohm resistor between anode and g2 of the power tubes, g2 ran over spec without it. I used 100 Ohm now, will try lower later...
Lowered Zout of the concertina PI, tubes I intend to use (6N1P, E88CC and even ECC85) can take the current. (might even be happier with more current)
Chose 100k for the anode load of the driver stage, R7 and R16 will be temprorary trimmers, just to be able to try every tube with the right bias.
--> did not change te feedback loop yet, will have to do that later.
On the schematic, black values were from the original schematic, blue values are the actual values from my stock GV1, red values will be mounted asap...
Unless someone sees a stupid mistake or a grave misjudgement in component choice/calculation.
Thanks for your feedback!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi there,
I wanted to try a tube amp. Compared and read few posts. After reading all these posts, I decided to order the Suppo EL84 amp. Within couple of weeks, I received the amp. When I first opened the box, I realized two things, one the amp had rattling sound inside it and the other one was, preamp tubes were 12AT7 instead of 6N1P. When I opened up the amp, I realized that the one of the power supply caps was detached and the other one was loose. I solder them back, installed the supplied tubes and fired the amp. I have very good quality SS amp, diy Nelson F5 amp and good quality cd player. Compared to two amps this sounded more detailed and better. It was a good surprise especially compared to other one being 10 times more expensive. Only one thing I did not like about this was it was not as clean sounding as what I am used to listening to. I decided to modify this amp. First I converted it back to 6N1P driver tube. Replaced driver and power tubes with Russian EV tubes. Now it sounded cleaner and musical, the way I like it. (Between 12AT7 vs 6N1P, it’s your choice. I preferred 6N1P). In next mode, I removed stock RCA connection, volume pot and connected DIY RCA silver cable directly to the circuit without volume pot. I like to use remote control for volume and changing sources. So currently I am using SS amp as preamp. This mod brought major change in sound quality. The transparency went way beyond my expectation. My next mode was to replace all caps and rectifier with schottky diodes. I used ASC, MTube for power supply and Teflon cap for decoupling, silver mica and film for pF values and Elna caps. I even changed the IEC socket, fuse & speaker terminals. All these changes were implemented together so can not distinguish effect of each change but it brought the amp to close to the sound I was looking for, very clean from top to bottom, detailed, airy, very firm sound stage & transparent. All these mods cost me more than this amp itself. Is it worth? I would say is debatable. The minimum few mods I recommend for this amp is volume pot, RCA cable with better shielding, two film caps in power supply - one next to electrolytic (20 -50 uF bypass with 0.1 uF) and one replacing 22uF for driver tubes. All other modes are at your discretions. You may not get enough return on your investment. This amp is well though off and it is a good value.
Have fun doing what you do…..
Creek
I wanted to try a tube amp. Compared and read few posts. After reading all these posts, I decided to order the Suppo EL84 amp. Within couple of weeks, I received the amp. When I first opened the box, I realized two things, one the amp had rattling sound inside it and the other one was, preamp tubes were 12AT7 instead of 6N1P. When I opened up the amp, I realized that the one of the power supply caps was detached and the other one was loose. I solder them back, installed the supplied tubes and fired the amp. I have very good quality SS amp, diy Nelson F5 amp and good quality cd player. Compared to two amps this sounded more detailed and better. It was a good surprise especially compared to other one being 10 times more expensive. Only one thing I did not like about this was it was not as clean sounding as what I am used to listening to. I decided to modify this amp. First I converted it back to 6N1P driver tube. Replaced driver and power tubes with Russian EV tubes. Now it sounded cleaner and musical, the way I like it. (Between 12AT7 vs 6N1P, it’s your choice. I preferred 6N1P). In next mode, I removed stock RCA connection, volume pot and connected DIY RCA silver cable directly to the circuit without volume pot. I like to use remote control for volume and changing sources. So currently I am using SS amp as preamp. This mod brought major change in sound quality. The transparency went way beyond my expectation. My next mode was to replace all caps and rectifier with schottky diodes. I used ASC, MTube for power supply and Teflon cap for decoupling, silver mica and film for pF values and Elna caps. I even changed the IEC socket, fuse & speaker terminals. All these changes were implemented together so can not distinguish effect of each change but it brought the amp to close to the sound I was looking for, very clean from top to bottom, detailed, airy, very firm sound stage & transparent. All these mods cost me more than this amp itself. Is it worth? I would say is debatable. The minimum few mods I recommend for this amp is volume pot, RCA cable with better shielding, two film caps in power supply - one next to electrolytic (20 -50 uF bypass with 0.1 uF) and one replacing 22uF for driver tubes. All other modes are at your discretions. You may not get enough return on your investment. This amp is well though off and it is a good value.
Have fun doing what you do…..
Creek
I saw that too. I still have my modded unit and use it every now and then. It's a good amp as long as you know DIY tube audio. Otherwise, it's one step away from a junk heap with its reliability issues and lack of support from Suppo.
My primary amp is a modified Magnavox EL84 console amp I bought off eBay for $100. It came with the original Magnavox labeled Mullard 6EU7 driver tubes and Magnavox labeled Mullard 6BQ5 tubes. They all test very well. That alone was a bargain. I keep the Mullards around for special occasions. but I use my reissued Genelex Gold Lion EL84s for everyday listening. This amp hasn't fried the Gold Lions like the Suppo did (this was before Suppo changed their tune about using EL84s in this amp). So it actually cost me less to upgrade the Magnavox amp, plus it's all point-to-point wiring. This made it much easier to upgrade all the resistors and caps. The results are astounding, and I have a matched quad of Mullard 6BQ5 tubes on top of all that.
That said, I think it's worth getting hold of a Magnavox 6BQ5 console amp, either the single ended or push-pull amps, and modifying one of those before buying a Suppo amp. They cost less, they are better built, and they sound much better.
My primary amp is a modified Magnavox EL84 console amp I bought off eBay for $100. It came with the original Magnavox labeled Mullard 6EU7 driver tubes and Magnavox labeled Mullard 6BQ5 tubes. They all test very well. That alone was a bargain. I keep the Mullards around for special occasions. but I use my reissued Genelex Gold Lion EL84s for everyday listening. This amp hasn't fried the Gold Lions like the Suppo did (this was before Suppo changed their tune about using EL84s in this amp). So it actually cost me less to upgrade the Magnavox amp, plus it's all point-to-point wiring. This made it much easier to upgrade all the resistors and caps. The results are astounding, and I have a matched quad of Mullard 6BQ5 tubes on top of all that.
That said, I think it's worth getting hold of a Magnavox 6BQ5 console amp, either the single ended or push-pull amps, and modifying one of those before buying a Suppo amp. They cost less, they are better built, and they sound much better.
Hello Suppos owners,
I've been using my GV-1 amp just about everyday since I got it 9 months ago. After some minor modifications, this amp has been great. I've recently got my Thorens 124/SME 3009 combo running and I am amazed at what my my modest system can do. I think maybe this is a good time to do the triode mod to get the most out of my new front end.
Then suddenly a a few days ago a cackling/spitting noise started in one channel and then a low level hum. I swapped tubes around and determined the 6P15 output tubes were at fault. So I need your advice on what brand I should buy and from which vendor. Do I need to buy matched pairs/quads? Please any advice would be appreciated.
Regards,
David
I've been using my GV-1 amp just about everyday since I got it 9 months ago. After some minor modifications, this amp has been great. I've recently got my Thorens 124/SME 3009 combo running and I am amazed at what my my modest system can do. I think maybe this is a good time to do the triode mod to get the most out of my new front end.
Then suddenly a a few days ago a cackling/spitting noise started in one channel and then a low level hum. I swapped tubes around and determined the 6P15 output tubes were at fault. So I need your advice on what brand I should buy and from which vendor. Do I need to buy matched pairs/quads? Please any advice would be appreciated.
Regards,
David
Well，
6P15P-EV / EL83 / SV83 tube ---------that is great or EL84 if you have. certainly paired is better.
the Suppo GV-1 is a premature product. looks great for DIYers. We are building huge tube amp machine at this stage. one day we will be back. most resentl project:6au6+300b+845*8=300W
I will ask people to count how many materials in store. I am thinking a clearance sale price for our diyer. thanks for your support.
&
merry chrismas to everyone.
6P15P-EV / EL83 / SV83 tube ---------that is great or EL84 if you have. certainly paired is better.
the Suppo GV-1 is a premature product. looks great for DIYers. We are building huge tube amp machine at this stage. one day we will be back. most resentl project:6au6+300b+845*8=300W
I will ask people to count how many materials in store. I am thinking a clearance sale price for our diyer. thanks for your support.
&
merry chrismas to everyone.
Thanks for the replies gentlemen. I shall order some of these tubes. But, I still need to know how critical it is for the pair of tubes to be matched for each channel. Is it ok for me to just order a pair and use what ever I get? Please advise.
Spaudio, please let me know of your upcoming clearance sale. I'd love to get another GV-1 to mod.
Regards,
David
Spaudio, please let me know of your upcoming clearance sale. I'd love to get another GV-1 to mod.
Regards,
David
I use the GV-1 in my office system and it is on 9 to 10 hours a day, 5 days a week. I have been using the new Mullard EL84/6BQ5s for over 6 months now, with no problems. I bought a them from Tube Depot as a matched quad.
The stock output tubes were crap out of the box. They would snap, crackle and pop, so I never put any time on them. As such, I cannot compare the sound of the Mullards to the stock tubes, but the amp sounds nice with my Monitor Audio speakers.
Bill
The stock output tubes were crap out of the box. They would snap, crackle and pop, so I never put any time on them. As such, I cannot compare the sound of the Mullards to the stock tubes, but the amp sounds nice with my Monitor Audio speakers.
Bill
TerribleT, you should be fine with ordering two matched pairs for a complete quad. Each pair share the same cathode resistors.
MashBill, I have a matched quad of those Mullard 6BQ5/EL84 Reissues and I really liked them in my Magnavox 6BQ5/EL84 amp before moving on to the Genelex Gold Lion EL84/N709 Reissues. I'll try the Mullard Reissues in my modified Suppo GV-1, because I think one of the stock Chinese 6P15 tubes is starting to go. I've read somewhere that these particular tubes are actually special built Russian 6P14P-EV military tubes (interchangeable with EL84 tubes) with nicer innards.
Joe, I would like to know if you have a spare thicker GV-1 top plate available. I have the original one that sags in the middle. I'd like to get the thicker version to fit on my amp to tidy it up.
MashBill, I have a matched quad of those Mullard 6BQ5/EL84 Reissues and I really liked them in my Magnavox 6BQ5/EL84 amp before moving on to the Genelex Gold Lion EL84/N709 Reissues. I'll try the Mullard Reissues in my modified Suppo GV-1, because I think one of the stock Chinese 6P15 tubes is starting to go. I've read somewhere that these particular tubes are actually special built Russian 6P14P-EV military tubes (interchangeable with EL84 tubes) with nicer innards.
Joe, I would like to know if you have a spare thicker GV-1 top plate available. I have the original one that sags in the middle. I'd like to get the thicker version to fit on my amp to tidy it up.
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Let's bring this up again.
I decided to order the 6P15-V2 amp from Suppo and I have to say, that what a good pieve of kit it is straight from the box. No hum, cracking etc. unwanted noise was coming out of the speakers. The overall build quality seem's also been improved compared to the GV-1, which I also used to own.
Overall sound seems to be in the soft side with bass, but I think russian 6P15P-EV and 6N1P-EV tubes will bring nice improvement and punch to the sound, which it did with the GV-1 amp.
As some have had problems with getting replys to emails from Suppo, my experience was quite the opppsite. I sent them a email, if there were any amps in stock and I got the anwser in two hours with the knowledge that the amp would be ready for shipping in two days. So I decided to order one and get this: the amp was shipped by DHL on last friday and the amp was waiting for me outside my door the next monday. So the amp was delivered to me from China to Finland in two days. I didn't know that's even possible.
I decided to order the 6P15-V2 amp from Suppo and I have to say, that what a good pieve of kit it is straight from the box. No hum, cracking etc. unwanted noise was coming out of the speakers. The overall build quality seem's also been improved compared to the GV-1, which I also used to own.
Overall sound seems to be in the soft side with bass, but I think russian 6P15P-EV and 6N1P-EV tubes will bring nice improvement and punch to the sound, which it did with the GV-1 amp.
As some have had problems with getting replys to emails from Suppo, my experience was quite the opppsite. I sent them a email, if there were any amps in stock and I got the anwser in two hours with the knowledge that the amp would be ready for shipping in two days. So I decided to order one and get this: the amp was shipped by DHL on last friday and the amp was waiting for me outside my door the next monday. So the amp was delivered to me from China to Finland in two days. I didn't know that's even possible.
The 6P15P-EV are a bit difficult to find in good condition these days.
Maybe you should try some of the TAD EL84 alternatives...
6P6S work great for thumping bass, but they are octal.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa160/birdy81260/6P6S2.jpg
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa160/birdy81260/6P6S2.jpg
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I dont think so. There's lots of web shops in Russia, where you can aquire these tubes in NOS/NIB state, for ex. Tubes-Store.com - Vacuum tubes, capacitors, nixie, sockets. Wholesale & retail trade. Worldwide shipping..
Yes, I know, but do they offer a matched pair or quad?
Same goes for the 6N1P-EV, can you find a matched pair?
(the matching is very important in the Suppo)
--> don't get me wrong, I do like Russian tubes, but I noticed you have to buy a lot and make your own pairs or quads... So I prefer to pay a few Euros more and have the good matching and real warranty of TAD.
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