The simplistic Salas low voltage shunt regulator

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Those in the link look good, with defined geometry. In the uH range an air coil would not have as many spirals so to develop much parasitic capacitance though. Will be like the Zobel ones in amps outputs.
...It is consisted from DC voltage and AC ripple voltage. Unless there is no CCS like when feeding a reg like those we make here, there should be only the load's bias currents sum flow replenish impact. Put a DVM in DC current mode in there and see what it shows for your particular amp. Play it a bit loud.
 
What you want it for, ezDac? There are choices to suit best if you let me know the application.

Actually it is a study I am going to do between various regulators, so I am picking up some different topologies to compare with each other.
They are going to power pre-amplifiers.
So far I decided to go with:

1)Jung-Didden SR, ALWSR version PCB
2) Salas Shunt
3) Sulzer-Borbely regulator
4) Series regulator with RC prefilteing (AM Audio alike)
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Actually it is a study I am going to do between various regulators, so I am picking up some different topologies to compare with each other.
They are going to power pre-amplifiers.
So far I decided to go with:

1)Jung-Didden SR, ALWSR version PCB
2) Salas Shunt
3) Sulzer-Borbely regulator
4) Series regulator with RC prefilteing (AM Audio alike)

You should at least include remote sensing and avoid a Zener Vref. Are those pre amplifiers good with PSRR?
 
Hi Salas and Bill,
about your testing with Fairchild Stealth kind, I would like to ask you if you compared the first (ISL9R460) and II (FFP04S60S) series. I use the older one, and comparing it with the II I found a better S value but higher Cj at lower Vr and higher Qrr.

I have not compared them. I am using the older ones. They cost less than $3 from Farnell Australia. I first bought 12 to try, liked them and bought another 24. Thanks for your information. I would not think they have huge differences.
 
Use garden variety red or green 1.8-2.1Vf LEDS, best quality capacitors across Vrefs and lose the 0.1uF bypasses, its a hit or miss. Stealth II diodes for the rect bridges or MUR 120, more compact for size and easier on budget.

Thanks.. Like these:
Digi-Key - 160-1130-ND (Manufacturer - LTL-4233) ?

I think MUR120 will be easier fit to the board. Is there any other difference between MUR105/110/115/120 than the voltage rating? There are mainly ON Semiconductors in the Digikey, and the price seems to be about the same.
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
Thanks.. Like these:
Digi-Key - 160-1130-ND (Manufacturer - LTL-4233) ?

I think MUR120 will be easier fit to the board. Is there any other difference between MUR105/110/115/120 than the voltage rating? There are mainly ON Semiconductors in the Digikey, and the price seems to be about the same.

The LEDS look OK. The MURs are different for reverse voltage by model yes. Use at least 4 times your rectified DC value for that rating in a full bridge per diode.
 
I would like to ask you if you compared the first (ISL9R460) and II (FFP04S60S) series. I use the older one, and comparing it with the II I found a better S value but higher Cj at lower Vr and higher Qrr.

I took the time to read both datasheets a minute ago. You are right.

So the older Steath ISL9R3062 (this is what I have got) has better soft reverse recovery characteristic, while the newer Steath II has faster recovery.

Since we are not using them in switch mode supplies, better soft recovery is preferrable to fast recovery. I am happy that I have got the Steath, not the Steath II.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.