The best sounding audio integrated opamps

Yeah, superficially the OPA1611 is very similar to the OPA211. But - and here comes the sweet part - the OPA211 was never convincing enough when sonic color/timbre/tonality (you get it 🙂 ) was concerned. It kept being "formally excellent but emotionally underwhelming". The OPA1611 (which it is worth noting is a proper "for audio" chip) has solved that marginal issue for me. 🙂

Actually, between OPA211AID and LT1028ACN8 it was very close, and in the Musiland I think I preferred the OPA211. I just wonder if the OPA211ID sounds a bit better than the AID, enough to justify keeping it into account even with the OPA1611 around 🙂
 
Wow, that Pioneer looks OLD. 🙂


Anyhow... Primare and Atoll know how to make high quality amps. "Totally different musical experience" eh? Impossible. I know what I'm talking about. I even compared Atoll integrated's to much more expensive, high-end amplifiers in shops. They were just a little more 'wide' and refined, with the Atoll IN80 (and also the IN50) setting a very good sonic standard at reasonable cost.

Regarding the Primare I20, well that was yet more refined but also a little more relaxed at dynamics. Slightly more sophisticated, but at a higher cost. I used it with Harbeth HL-P3/ES monitors. 🙂


If I had the money, I would spend the 390 euro required to get the Atoll IN30. 😉 Maybe it's just what I should do... buy the new speakers, and then save up (and enjoy the great, musical and natural Pioneer A-209R in the meantime).

It is old I guess, probably around 1985/6 ish ? ... I sold it on a few years back. Before the Pioneer I had a homebuilt John Linsley Hood 80 watt MOSFET amp... which was excellent, but I had issues with hum etc... I've learnt an awful lot since those days though. And before that, a Practical Wireless "Europa" and before that a classic "Linn" circuit using Germanium outputs built from a kit while I was still at school. Anyway a Marantz PM40SE took the Pioneers place, which sounded much less analytical and "cold". I was still always interested in amp design and went on to build Doug Selfs "Blameless Class B" amp which served well for several years... but I knew there was better, and it wasn't about specs or numbers... it's that magical experience when you are suddenly not listening to "hifi" anymore... the amp and speakers just melt away... and before you is a real soundstage with depth, height, width... nothing "artificial" in the way the music is presented... and none of the amps that went before my current one could ever come close to that.
Do I have any benchmarks... Well I've been lucky enough to see and be shown around the Sugden facility, and have a friend who has two Sugden systems,
Sugden Audio: Home
so in a way I am no stranger to hearing gear with a top "musical" reputation, and would say my points of reference are, if you forgive the expression "sound"

And having said all that, I accept that "sound" is such a personal thing anyway, and obviously if you are genuinely happy with what you have, and you seem to be then that's great... enjoy the music, explore different music, different versions of the same piece etc. Don't get hung up on opamps... the system as a whole should really let the music shine through 🙂
 
And having said all that, I accept that "sound" is such a personal thing anyway, and obviously if you are genuinely happy with what you have, and you seem to be then that's great... enjoy the music, explore different music, different versions of the same piece etc. Don't get hung up on opamps... the system as a whole should really let the music shine through 🙂

You're genuinely happy only when you hear your favorite music the way you like. The "favorite music" bit is crucial. I will never understand those owners of super expensive systems that end up listening to such stupid, mundane, soulless music. Follies of our time 🙂

I don't get hung up on opamps any more than I get on cables (i.e. the most significant things you can change without going bankrupt). 😎



I hope this thread serves the purpose of reducing the scope of potential choices in the universe of opamps, both to my and to others' advantage. 🙂
 
Last edited:
Has anyone tried, either in an existing circuit or designed something with the LME49713, particularly the HA suffix?

Yes, I know they are current feedback with hyperfast slew rates.

No, sorry! I just know of an expensive Cary Audio DAC (with the 32-bit AK4399 DAC) that makes use of the LME49713HA for the I/V, followed by the LME49710HA for buffering and/or filtering the output.
 
If I had the money, I would spend the 390 euro required to get the Atoll IN30. 😉 Maybe it's just what I should do...
You can find the Atoll IN50 (se?) with remote controler at good price here :
ATOLL IN50 silver, vendita HiFi al miglior prezzo
(don't know about this vendor... but price are impressive)

I've got the IN80. With a small capacitor swap, it becomes a real killer for the price!

Back on opamps, I tried AD797BR in the poppulse pcm1796, as I/V or as LPF, they are good, but I still prefer my full LT1028 combo clearness.

I ordered some small styroflex capacitor to use the over-compensation feature on the LT1028ACN8 (in the LPF)
They are supposed to reduce even more the noise of the chip...
Can't wait!
 
I'm surprised by this Monster M350i with the shielding removed. It's more tansparent than the Audioquest King Cobra, which is saying something. There are so many subtleties coming out of my DAC... 🙂 (playing the Sparklehorse 1995 debut album "Vivadixiesubmarinetransmissionplot")
 
You can find the Atoll IN50 (se?) with remote controler at good price here :
ATOLL IN50 silver, vendita HiFi al miglior prezzo
(don't know about this vendor... but price are impressive)

I've got the IN80. With a small capacitor swap, it becomes a real killer for the price!

Back on opamps, I tried AD797BR in the poppulse pcm1796, as I/V or as LPF, they are good, but I still prefer my full LT1028 combo clearness.

I ordered some small styroflex capacitor to use the over-compensation feature on the LT1028ACN8 (in the LPF)
They are supposed to reduce even more the noise of the chip...
Can't wait!
Hey, you tickle me! 🙂

WOW, thanks... 309 euro for the IN50... let me bookmark it. 😎


Also, thanks for reporting about the AD797BR, which I've been curious about for some time.


Over-compensating the LT1028 in I/V? Hmm...I/V likes slew rate...I don't know.

BTW, can you please remind me...what LT1028 variants were you using?
 
Over-compensating the LT1028 in I/V? Hmm...I/V likes slew rate...I don't know.

BTW, can you please remind me...what LT1028 variants were you using?
In fact, I'm using 2*LT1028ACN8 in the output and 4*LT1028CS8 as I/V

I'll try over-compensation on the LT1028ACN, cs8 are too small to solder for me...

And yeah, I've never seen Atoll products at this low price! Too good to be fair? 😀
 
And yeah, I've never seen Atoll products at this low price! Too good to be fair? 😀
Perhaps, LOL. 😀 Who knows.


BTW, if you manage...why not try the OPA1611. It may go very well to buffer the LT1028 you used in I/V. It should provide a rounder & slightly warmer sound than the LT1028ACN8 you've got now, with no loss of detail. However, if you're 100% happy with the sound now...do not change anything 🙂
 
I'm surprised by this Monster M350i with the shielding removed. It's more tansparent than the Audioquest King Cobra, which is saying something. There are so many subtleties coming out of my DAC... 🙂 (playing the Sparklehorse 1995 debut album "Vivadixiesubmarinetransmissionplot")

Although I'm possibly missing the King Cobra's warm seductiveness. We'll see...for now I enjoy the Monster. Will have to try the VALab silver cables too (if the chunky RCA's fit), which I've not heard yet with the Super Pro.