Hi guys, I don't if this is the right channel to ask this. But I'm looking for a wireless headphone plugin from Tv. Can you recommend one for me. I don't know what the best right now in the market. So that's why I have to ask first and check them thru your recommendation. Thanks

Perhaps an odd (silly? stupid?) question, but I need a bit of clarification regarding entering data into PSUD2. I have done a Google Advanced Search in general, and on here, seeking an answer, (yes, I’ve read the Tim Robbins instructions, too) but can’t find one.
So here goes …. With a center tapped transformer, you enter the voltage from the CT to one side of the secondary, as well as the resistance from the CT to one side of the secondary (or across the secondary and divide by 2). But what about the current?
As an example, I have a 900 volt CT plate transformer that’s rated for 250ma. In PSUD2 I enter 450 in ‘nominal output’, but for current is it .25 amps or .125 amps? It seems sensible to go with .125 amps, and all tube rectifiers list their allowable current per plate, so that fits, too. However, I’d like to be certain I’m doing this correctly.

Each book is $20.00.

"The Recording and Reproduction of Sound" by Oliver Read, 1949, 1st Edition - 1st Printing, Sams & Co. Shows light wear, pages clean.

"Radio Engineering" by Frederick Terman, 1947, 3rd edition, McGraw Hill Electrical & Electronic Engineering Series, 969 pp. Shows light wear, pages clean.

"F-M Simplified" Third Edition, by Milton Kiver, 1960, Van Nostrand, 376 pp. Shows light wear, pages clean.

"Frequency Modulation Receivers" by A.B. Cook & A.A. Liff, 1968, 2nd printing, Prentice Hall, 527 pp. Shows light wear, pages clean, ex libris, never checked out.

"Radio and Television Receiver Troubleshooting and Repair" by Alfred Ghirardi & J. Richard Johnson, 1957, 8th printing, Rinehart & Co., 822 pp. Shows wear on hard cover, pages clean.

"Radio and Television Receiver Circuitry and Operation" by Alfred Ghirardi & J. Richard Johnson, 1957, 6th printing, Rinehart & Co., 669 pp. Shows wear on hard cover, pages clean.

"Radio and Television Receiver Circuitry and Operation" by Alfred Ghirardi & J. Richard Johnson, 1956, 5th printing, Rinehart & Co., 669 pp. Shows significant wear and fading on hard cover, pages clean.

"Basic Electricity/Electronics" Books 1 & 2, edited by Seymour Uslan, 1970, 1st edition 7th printing, Howard Sams & Bobbs-Merrill, Book 1 - 314 pp, Book 2 - 224 pp. Shows wear on hard cover, pages clean, ex libris.

$15.00 "Tube Substitution Guidebook" Antique Electronic Supply, 89 pages. Cover shows wear, pages are clean.

$15.00 "Newnes Audio and HI-FI Engineer's Pocket Book" by Vivian Capel, Heinemann Newnes Books, First edition, 1988, 190 pages. Shows little wear, pages clean.

$50.00 "The Boys' First Book of Radio and Electronics" Alfred Morgan, Thirteenth Printing 1966. 230 pages. Shows light wear, dust jacket has few tears and wear, see images.

SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD "Basic Electronics" Vols 1-6, by Van Nooger & Neville, Hayden Books, 1953, presumed 1st ed. Shows light wear, tear to dj, pages clean. SOLD SOLD SOLD

$6.00 USPS Media Mail shipping to USA
$12.00 Priority/UPS shipping to USA. Shipping fee covers any amount of books purchased. Will be packed with bubble wrap on all sides to immobilize in box and sufficient to prevent any damage from occuring during shipping. Shipped promptly, tracking shared, safely packed.

To make purchase message me with your email address and I’ll send you an invoice from PayPal, Venmo or Cash App. ]

Pick up in person welcome, no shipping charge. Litchfield IL

$50.00

"Fundamentals of Vacuum Tubes" by Austin Eastman, Revised Edition 1947, Macmillan Company, 510 pp.
Full of formulas, equations, charts graphs, technical drawings, illustrations, pictures.

Shows wear, wear to cover, ex libris, stamps first few pages and last few pages, otherwise pages are clean.
Sold AS-IS

$6.00 USPS Media Mail shipping to USA or
$12.00 Priority/UPS shipping to USA. For any amount of books. Will be packed with bubble wrap on all sides to immobilize in box and sufficient to prevent any damage from occuring during shipping. Shipped promptly, tracking shared, safely packed.

To make purchase message me with your email address and I’ll send you an invoice from PayPal, Venmo or Cash App.
Pick up in person welcome, no shipping charge. Litchfield IL

Hi

Looking for 1 or 2 x MiniDSP 2x4, these are not available anymore for purchase from MiniDSP.
I would prefer the regular type instead of HD just to keep the price down a bit.

If you’re willing to let go of these fun little unit (s) please send me a PM.

Thanks
Eric

Hello all. I own a Pro-Ject Turntable with a red Ortophon cartridge connect to my Outlaw RR2160 receiver (witch I love). However, when I'm using the turntable the level of sound is much lower than the PC-USB input connect to my computer system. Not only the ''level'' of sound is low, but it seem ''thin sounding'' as well. Should I change the cartridge or should I buy a decent phono preamp ? Maybe I would like a tube phono preamp for warmer sounding. Thank you for your opinions.

$40.00

"Handbook of Sound Reproduction" by Edgar Villchur, 1957, 2nd edition, AUDIO Library Vol 3, Radio Magazines Inc, 217 pp.
Shows wear to cover, pages clean.

Includes new, ground breaking research into Acoustic Suspension speakers. "The development of the acoustic suspension speaker system was completed after Chapter 12 was written and revised. The description of the system is therefore inserted here as a postscript."

Full of formulas, equations, charts graphs, technical drawings, illustrations, pictures.

Sold AS-IS

$6.00 USPS Media Mail shipping to USA or
$12.00 Priority/UPS shipping to USA. For any amount of books.
Will be packed with bubble wrap on all sides to immobilize in box and sufficient to prevent any damage from occuring during shipping.
Shipped promptly, tracking shared, safely packed.

To make purchase message me with your email address and I’ll send you an invoice from PayPal, Venmo or Cash App.

$50.00

"The Boys' First Book of Radio and Electronics" Alfred Morgan, Thirteenth Printing 1966. 230 pages. Shows light wear, dust jacket has few tears and wear, see images.

Sold AS-IS

$6.00 USPS Media Mail shipping to USA or
$12.00 Priority/UPS shipping to USA.

Will be packed with bubble wrap on all sides to immobilize in box and sufficient to prevent any damage from occuring during shipping.
Shipped promptly, tracking shared, safely packed.

To make purchase message me with your email address and I’ll send you an invoice from PayPal, Venmo or Cash App.
Pick up in person welcome, no shipping charge. Litchfield IL

Books are $20.00 each

These book contain tube data on all types of tubes, audio included, and not just RCA or Slyvania tubes.

RCA Receiving Tube Manual, RC-18, 352 pp. Includes picture tubes. Shows light wear to cover, pages clean.

RCA Receiving Tube Manual, RC-28, 784 pp. Includes picture tubes. Shows wear to cover, some light water damage, pages clean.

RCA Receiving Tube Manual, RC-30, 760 pp. Includes picture tubes. Shows wear to cover, pages clean.

Slyvania Technical Manual, 15th edition, 1975, 633 pp. This book also includes picture tubes. Shows light wear to cover, pages clean, appears unread.

"The Radio Amateur's Handbook" 1945 edition, American Radio Relay League, 532 pp and over 100 pps in catalog section. Shows wear to cover, pages clean.

"Saga of the Vacuum Tube" by Gerald Tyne, 1987, Antique Electronic Supply, 494 pp. Shows little wear, pages clean.

$50.00 "The Boys' First Book of Radio and Electronics" Alfred Morgan, Thirteenth Printing 1966. 230 pages. Shows light wear, dust jacket has few tears and wear, see images.

Sold AS-IS

$6.00 USPS Media Mail shipping to USA or
$12.00 Priority/UPS shipping to USA. For any amount of books.
Will be packed with bubble wrap on all sides to immobilize in box and sufficient to prevent any damage from occuring during shipping. Shipped promptly, tracking shared, safely packed.

To make purchase message me with your email address and I’ll send you an invoice from PayPal, Venmo or Cash App.

Pick up in person welcome, no shipping charge. Litchfield IL

Good afternoon,

I have a mtx mxa8001 that had 4 of its 8 73559p power supply fets let go. Removed all PS mosfets and checked the gate drive and was greeted with this.
That can't be a correct waveform for the power supply mosfets?

I've traced this waveform back to the output pins (8 and 11) of the TL494 which appear here.

Is the TL494 faulty?

In between there are a few buffer transistors driving this signal through a small tranformer then on to the gate resistors.

Here is another report of people being killed by someone driving the wrong way on a freeway:

https://www.msn.com/en-us/news/crim...sedgntp&cvid=e70edd42e45b468ea7220f3955b61617

This has happened before and is likely to happen again somewhere, sometime.

There is an easy solution that would prevent it from happening again and I have long wanted to see it implemented.

It involves tire puncture strips on a hinge at the bottom of the off ramp. If you are exiting the freeway you run over the strips and drive them down on the hinge flat with the surface of the road. However, if you are attempting to enter the wrong way they are in the up position and will puncture your tires not allowing you to proceed any further.

Will they cost money to build and install? Of course. But they surely would save some lives.

I noticed this circuit of lm3886 not long ago. Here, the function of the 3886 is to buffer. All voltage amplification is responsible by the previous lm318. It is said that this circuit can achieve very low THD. I want to know the detailed operation principle of this circuit,

Now I can't buy 3886 chips. Can I use lm4766 tda7293 lm1875? Can the lm318 be replaced by opa1612, a modern low distortion amplifier? Can you recommend a circuit that can work normally? I don't want to use the recommended circuit in the manual, because I've done it. The timbre is too ordinary.

Thanks for your reply, the problem has been solved

At a monthly event that myself and a friend have been running for some time now we have decided to bin his active sub and started using a couple of mine. We are somewhat limited by levels but his sub was just underpowered and kept smashing the limiter really before it had enough impact. The problem is, there is not really any way of avoiding having the subs located within that annoying 1 to 4 metre from the rear wall zone. The room isnt big enough to bring them further forward and they can't go back due to shape, other equipment, and the fact we have a large projector doing visuals behind the DJ. With my 2 subs there is more than enough available power to overcome their poor location just by simply turning them up, but the issue is that it does create a lot more bass outside of the venue, and this is less than ideal (potential complaints from nearby residents).
So I'm wondering if there is anything that can be done to increase the forward projection of bass to avoid having to turn them up too loud. I'm thinking of perhaps a false, heavy 1metre high or so panel that sits right behind them. Essentially an upright panel that sits say 6 inches or so behind them that would act a bit like a rear wall and reflect a good load of the soundwaves back again. I dont know. Has anyone done anything similar?

Hello to all, just looking for info on my ISDT Q8 DC to DC charger. After some close visual inspection I found a burnt power mosfett labeled D16N04LS, unknown manufacturer. This makes sense because this board has another input power source thru USB and the device powered up. I am looking for info or any experience with this chip. Maybe a comparable substitute. This charger handles 10 to 30v input.

Very nicely built Hypnotise MC phono preamp. AD811an and OP1765g op amps. Carbon Film resistors. Wima RIAA. ACS polypro output caps. Millspec 24ga Teflon/Silver output wire, 317/337 regulators w/ outboard transformer.
This a great sounding MC phono preamp. Less than 20hrs use.

Asking $250.00 obo plus shipping.

$40.00 OR BEST OFFER
Lot of 28 issues of Audio Xpress Magazine
View images for details and contents.

Magazines show some wear, some have light water damage (wrinkled pages - not musty, moldy or badly damaged).
Sold AS-IS

$15.00 shipping to USA lower 48 states. Magazines with advertising do not qualify for USPS Media Mail Shipping.
Shipped promptly, tracking shared, safely packed.
To make purchase message me with your email address and I’ll send you a Goods & Services invoice from PayPal, Venmo or Cash App. I will send an invoice as Goods & Services to protect the buyer against fraud.
Pick up in person, Litchfield, Illinois.

More specifically I'd like to know how the 1X2X4X8X jumpers work. I can see how coil taps and a multi position switch can change volume, but the jumpers are beyond me right now. They seem to be connected to the winding somehow, and I think that makes sense. Do they add in or remove parts of the winding to/from the circuit? If somebody can give me a quick sketch of the circuit or point me to where I can find one, I'd be most grateful.

thanks

Getting some excellent comments about the RedRoo PR5 phono preamp kit with Lundahl moving coil step-up transformers. Check it out at https://www.redrookits.com/phono-preamplifier/

You can download a pdf about the moving-coil option which is pretty generic. You could do the same on any phono preamp.... Phil

Hi. I have a few test equipement for sale on ebay at a good price. In particular the Tek active FET probe for scope and its power supply can be of some use to you guys.
I have also a nice HP 3551A Line test set that is is fact a balanced audio generator and balanced ac voltmeter with frequency readout. Can be of use in an audio setup if you want a nice balanced source, at a good price.
These items were used in my personal lab and are in great shape and perfectly functional.
I can combined shipping for the TEK probe and supply. The prices are in $CAN, as well as the shipping prices within Canada.
If you are in the US I can always cancel the listing on ebay, and we can proceed directly.
Let me know if interested.
Thanks
SB

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/275517246255
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/275517250654
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/275607689318

Dear Nelson Pass:

Hello, I want to ask you a big favor: all the schematic diagrams for the Threshold SA/3. It has a DC Offset for 9 Volts on one channel. I already checked all the output transistors and they are not the cause. I have isolated the problem on the driver board for that channel. But the values of some capacitors are not visible. Look, I am in Mexico and unfortunately here it is very difficult to find someone who can repair these units. I love this amplifier and for many years I have tried to repair it but well, in my country I suffer from a lack of audio culture.

I know that a person like you does not have time for a request like this, but even so I try and with great respect I ask if I had to do some paperwork or something else I can do, please let me know.

I thank you in advance for your time to read me.

Sincerely
Chema Duarte

We are in the finishing stages of completing a full rebuild of our living room.

As I want to keep my wife happy I have come up with the idea of hidden equipment with only the speakers visible (Boenicke W5 - which are very nice and very compact)

To add some low frequency grunt I am thinking about adding subs (although the W5's are capable of a full-bodied sounds despite their mini size)

With the renovation I had the opportunity to think forward and have some ideas ... one idea to be honest 😛

If you look at the pictures below you can see the space under/behind the 15x15 cm wooden beams around the black steel frame. First I will put my equipment on the shelf attached to the frame and already modified my NAD pre-amp to accept an external IR sensor. This will put the equipment out of sight already but to the left and right of the shelf I still have some moderate space to put 2 subs.

I will make 2 custom enclosures which can be max. 70 cm wide, 50 cm deep and 20 cm high and still be invisible when sitting on the couch, net volume will be approx. 50 liters each ... the only available (logical?) orientation would be a down-firing sub. I have not selected any sub yet ....

As music is my primary goal I guess a sealed design would be best. Ad a plate amplifier with dsp functionality like this: Plate Amplifiers : PWR-ICE125 to be able to let it intergrate with the Boenicke. The power-amp for the Boenicke is an Odyssey Khartago

I added the dimensions for the living room to get an idea what the environment looks like. Looking at the pictures I guess you will realize the acoustic damping is moderate at best.

Please fire away with some ideas/suggestions or possible pitfalls having the subs done like that.

Here is the stereo in our former (much smaller) house:



The frame and buildup (stereo not installed yet):





The shelf cut to size (depth) to fit within the frame:



How it looks like when assembled and wood burner installed and impression of listening space, ceiling heigth is 270 cm in the low part and 300 cm in the main area.

i have read posts about flexion in the bearing housing,namely technics sp10's and the sony tts-8000.
with that in mind which (see photo) offers the most rigid assembly .
the housing on the left is the original one using pressed steel and a seperate cast aluminium bearing housing which is bolted to it.
the example on the right is a 1 piece cast aluminium affair.

Hi,

Anyone have a schematic for the amp i an REL T-3 subwoofer?

My T-3 is blowing fuses. I'm pretty sure the output transistors are shorted. The appear that way when measure in the circuit. I'll pull them today and retest. routerlogin

In tracing the circuit, it does not appear that there is any voltage regulation for the output transistors. Current flows from the transformer to the PS caps and then to the transistors. 192.168.l.l

I can't find any VR ICs on the board, though there is one op-amp that could be in a part of a VR circuit.

Is it comment for outputs to be driven from an unregulated source? 192.168.0.1

Finally, assuming the transistors are bad and a replace all 4 (2 NPN, 2 PNP), are there any guidelines for setting the idle current if I don't have a schematic or manual? Should I just leave it as is in that case?

Thanks in advance.

Just began the testing phase on the first of a pair of Silburys.

At this point I can say that I'm extremely impressed. Highs are about as you'd expect from the Alpair 10.3, but the bass extension is where it shines. There's far more of it than I ever would've imagined; in fact I suspect it's going to take a fair bit of stuffing to get it tamed. It's pretty smooth overall right out of the, er, box, but it just needs a bit of fine-tuning. BTW, I was also surprised to note that it seems to work best when it's closer to the wall (unlike my FHXLs), which bodes well for their eventual placement in the living room.

The picture shows my initial test setup prior to tuning/stuffing. I'm guessing this is one of those "stuff to taste" deals as there isn't a whole lot of information on this other than what's been posted/published for other designs. For that matter there's not exactly a wealth of info on building this design anywhere (except for this thread), so I'm considering the creation of a heavily illustrated build guide once they're both complete. Most of the concepts and techniques are applicable to nearly any flat-pack build, so this should (hopefully) have a wider appeal. Any thoughts?

Anyway, thanks to Scott for such an amazing design and for answering a lot of my stupid questions. If any of you have been on the fence on whether or not to build a set of these, just go for it. Your ears will thank you - even if your back won't. 😀

I think I've come up with a setup that will give Me a way to reduce the ripple before the main regulator. If my calculations are correct I should be able to get a -60dB reduction in ripple. Suggestions welcome.

Mental musing:
If building an F4 or similar for 4ohm low sensitivity speakers like Maggies the obvious choice appears to build a bridged/balanced configuration.
My question is "If you don't think you need the additional voltage, is it reasonable to drive two sets of output boards from a single 'single ended' front end? Essentially just pour more current through additional output pairs.
And a follow up:
Assuming an appropriate high gain preamp like the BA2018(?) is it reasonable to populate two sets of F4 boards without the input Jfets - 6 output pairs per channel as `crippled' F4s?

As Simon and Garfunkel once sang `Still lurking (and hopefully learning) after all these years'
Mike

(cross posted from a reddit post, where commenters immediately told me to come over here for your comparitive expertise!)

In summary- I have a homemade PA system mounted on a bicycle trailer and, after 10 years of it working great and living outside, I am looking to replace and upgrade the woofers. I'm looking for recommendations for an efficient 12" woofer to to fit in a 16" x 36" PVC tube ported enclosure. Port is tuned at 35Hz. Enclosure has roughly 110 liter volume).

Longer story... I built THIS 10 years ago (videos from 2 weeks ago). Here it is 8 years ago. Here it is 10 years ago. This was my first speaker build, and the results exceeded my expectations.

Woofers are currently Peavey Pro 12 Low Frequency, and according to math, "should" be in a 56.6 liter vented box. But, here we are, they sound great, and legit hit some magical gut-displacing low end frequencies in city streets and alleys with buildings on either side. But 10 years on, I'm hearing more distortion at high volumes than I had earlier in their life, and even with a new amp, the problem continues to creep.

I should note, they're paired with Peavey Triflex Tweeters with a passive crossover at 2.5khz and up.

I'm writing to ask this illustrious and learned community to weigh in on options / suggestions to replace and hopefully upgrade the woofers, so that

1. "at least as good" as the Peavey 12 LF Pros, (preferably a noticeable improvement!)
2. similarly or better weather durability since it's stored outside (covered),
3. similarly "over-performs" bass-wise in an oversized enclosure.
4. Highly efficient, as powered by a 12v marine amp and battery system.

Some options I have already identified:

• Precision Devices PD.123C01
• JBL 2206H 12" High-Power LF Driver
• Celestion TF1230S
• B&C Speaker 12CL64
• Dayton Audio PA310-8 12" Pro Woofer 8 Ohm

I'll stop here and just ask if any of you all have experience / recommendations / video's re: these options? Or other recommendations / considerations I could be making? Curious if anyone strongly recommends a status quo solution, eg, just replace them with another set of the Peavey Pro 12 LFs?

Morning Folks!

I hope I'm in the right section for posting this. I have a Pioneer DEH-K4141zm head unit for an old RX7. I have been able to restore all of it to great working condition except the CD player portion. The laser assemblies in these units were all built around '87 or '88 and the suspensions on all of them have been corroded beyond repair. I have purchased 2 additional head units, both cd sections no longer function and replacements are unavailable.

My objective is to build a device that interfaces with the DAC and CD control, or replaces the CD unit circuit board, that I can play bluetooth music over the head unit. The Digital Signal Processor is a Sony CXD1135q and the servo control is a Sony CXA1082AQ. I found an old post on here that talks about using these chips, but have been unable to get ahold of the posters to find more information and the thread is locked. It says their profiles are unavailable. Here is the link: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/cxd1125q-and-cxd1135q-spdif-output-mod.317359/. I know what these guys are trying to do is a little bit different, I'm just wanting to see if they would have any input or possible direction for me to get started.

Here is a block diagram of the CD player from the service manual. There are also wiring diagrams, but the block diagram shows the general layout of the CD player circuit board.

I am thinking that my options are to either A) to build something that feeds in a spoofed rf signal of a cd image, and keep the servo controller and DSP setup, or B) make something to replace the PD4136B CD control chip and feed the DAC directly. This is going to be quite an undertaking since I am not an electrical engineer by trade.

The DAC receives a 2-channel x 88.2khz I2S format signal from the DSP, CXD1135Q. I'm still learning how these formats work, but for now, it has the 3 wires that I2S needs. It also has a couple other L/R inputs that the DSP controls, so I'll have to do some research on them.

I have found datasheets on all of the chips shown in this block diagram, except for the Pioneer PD4136B controller chip. I have no idea where I would find such a thing.

Anyways, this is a long first post. If any of you guys know about this chipset and can educate me on them, I'd be grateful. If you know the other guys in the cited post, and can steer them in this direction for comment, that would be great too.

Thank you and have a great day

Hello all . I have an amplifier Kenwood 8104d that has a problem with the power circuit. I think it is the oscillator circuit Tl494 The device works when I put the electric compensation bridge to pin No. 8 in the integrated ic TL 494
What should I do to run the device without any errors.

Hello Everybody,

I'm not an expert in electronics. Although I've studied computer engineering, my knowledge in electronic is mostly theoretical. So I need the help of some of you expert guys.

I own a tube preamplifier, and I'm experiencing a little hum coming from both speakers which is independent from the volume and from the selected source. The hearing of this hum is probably helped by the high sensitivity of my Class D power amp monoblocks.
Cabling is RCA, no XLR in my system.

I've already excluded any possibility of ground loops by making all the usual tests (tube rolling, cheater plugs, isolation transformers, removing all sources, etc...).

So I bought myself an oscilloscope and a mains' isolation transformer to measure things directly inside the preamp.

Now, in this preamp heaters are DC powered. here is an extract of the power supply schema:



First thing I noticed: although in the schematics the capacitor "3C10" is described as a 10000uF/16V, the one soldered in my preamp is 8800uF 25V. I assume this is good as well for its purpose, but not 100% sure.

Now, I've measured the rectified voltage between +Uf and -Uf with a multimeter and it stays around 11.80V. That's already a little bit strange, as it should be at least 12V. I assume that the 2940 here are the 12V ones, I cannot read it from the soldered one as they are too close to each other and cannot read the specs on them.

I also assume the designer has put three 2940 in parallel to obtain more juice (current) for the heaters (my preamp has a total of 8 tubes, n.4 12AX7 for the phono stage and n.4 12AT7 for the line stage).

With the scope, bypassing the DC, I've measured this strange signal (still between +Uf and -Uf):



It is around 20mV wide and the frequency is around 100Hz.

What do you experienced guys think? Is such level of noise normal with 2940 regulators? Or could this be the reason of the hum I'm hearing?

P.S.
I've also measured B+ and it has not such noise at all.

Thanks in advance

Kind regards
Marco

I'm getting the impression that the Kemet DC Link C4AQ capacitors in my CLCRC tube PSU are rolling off the HF. They are 500V or more, 12uF to 40uF. Seems the more I put in the more the rolloff I hear. Typical Electrolytic caps don't seem to do this.

How is this possible? Can anyone explain if and how PSU caps could roll off the HF?

I don't have a scope unfortunately so unable to actually measure what's happening.

can anyone tell what diode is this on the midle?it has only yellow ring nothing else.on the left side one is zener BZX85C30 30v 1.3w.

Hello people

I am looking to buy 2 pcs of the BA-3 front end board, maybe someone gets them surplus in the EU.

Need replacement drivers for Meadowlark Heron speakers.

Hello,
what is the right englisch term for the parts from the attached images (brand: TEROSON) and those under
https://www.hofmei.de/e/product/150307?emcs0=PD - Kunden kauften auch&emcs1=PD&emcs2=na&emcs3=150307#&gid=1&pid=1
This is excellent suitable for fixing lenses of laser heads (Pioneer cd player) and seal up drivers/transducers in loudspeaker cabinets.
Thanks for an advice.
The correct term is as follow:
permanently plastic profiled sealing tape - synthetic rubber
(figured out with the help of post #2) description in detail under
https://webshop.fiat500126.com/en/e...ts/others/sealing-band-terostat-vii-per-meter
and
https://de.rubix.com/de/terostat-ii-20x2mm-40-mtr-in-4-rollen/p-G1353000224

Greetings! Thought I'd post the details of a full range cabinet build I completed several years ago. The drivers are the Audio Nirvana cast 12's in the recommended cabinet volume of 5.6 cubic feet. Something I tried was to use constrained layer damping on the interrior of the 3/4" plyron. This came about because I came across a few gallons of urethane sealant. I applied this with a notched trowel and pressed down 3/16" Baltic birch plywood, supported by protruding screws, until the sealant set up. I increased the dimensions of the Common Sense Audio's cabinet plans, to maintain the 5.6 volume. The thread inserts worked out well, using 10-24 brass screws. The bracing is solid core 1/2' thick Formica. Other than the recommended fiberglass batts, I lined the rest with 1/8" felt. Needless to say, you can't hear these boxes! I have loved these speakers over the years but also went on to electrostatics, infinite baffle sub, DML's, etc. I'll be retiring and moving/paring down in the next year, so likely will put them on the swap page. Pictures attached.

So I'm moving rapidly into the uncomfortable position that I'm surrounded by audio modules and MCUs and I'm running out of excuses but to actually make something out of them!

The list so far, note, not all components will get used the first time or potentially ever.

Processing / routing / admin / UI.
STM32H743 - 450Mhz ARMm7 FPU/DSP core + I2S/SPDIF/SAI etc.
STM32H750 - 450Mhz ARMm7 FPU/DSP core + I2S/SPDIF/SAI etc.
2xSTM32F411s and 2xSTM32F401s - 80/100Mhz ARMm4 FPU/DSP cores.
ESP32 VROOM3DE - pegged for I2S - bluetooth Tx.

2 x Atmel/Xlinx USB UAC2.0 DSD ASync USB I2S bridge
2 x PCM9211 Optical/Coax I2S Bridges (One Rx one Tx)
1 x CSR8675 Bluetooth 5.0 - I2S Rx Bridge
1 x PCM2706 USB - I2S bridge (driver less!)
1 x WM8782 24/192 ADC
2 x Master clock decouplers
3 x PCM5102 DACs
2 x USB1.1 Opto / xformer Isolators.

On the software and prototyping side of things, most small parts are prototyped in isolation, with the exception of the master clock decouplers (resample chips) and the SPDIF interfaces, but I don't expect too many surprises there. A 2 channel mix down has been tested with gain controls.

I also have the EQ peak filters coded, but not tested, they were borrowed so they should work. Still need to code the high/low shelve filters.

So one or two more prototypes to test the EQ processing, performance testing the mix down with more streams and testing that the optical I/Os work.

The first rendition of this will probably be just the STM32H743 with a single optical IN, a single USB2.0 bridge as inputs. 2xPCM5102s selectable for output. Then I can add to it as I go.

While I'm am intending on sticking to 48K @ 16bit as my ears will not benefit from more, there is the concern around mixing a processing at that low a format. So I'm still humming and ha'ing about whether I should just double that up and use 24bit on a 32bit word at 96K. It really depends on how well my verbose, enterprise coding style holds up performance wise. I might create the prototype at 96K and find I just don't have the power without DSP optimizations or I might find the H7 processes things in a matter of a few dozen microseconds and asks for more. Prototyping, building, testing refining will be the way I find out. I have many complex options for spreading out the load should I need to.

Hello!
Can you guys advice on mounting ceramic bases like the one in the picture? I believe they are designed to be mounted under the chassis, but not sure how to handle the bit that stands out on the mounting hole.
Any advice is appreciated.
Regards,
Jose

Up for sale Beyma Xm15 coaxial speakers . Stunning speakers , awsome sound . The HF unit has a 3'' VC ! Crazy , right ? Very good condition , little use . I do not have the original boxes anymore but luckily i have some 18sound boxes which are just fain . Great unit for a 2 way design or something like this
https://evo2.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Bitches_Brew_Open_Baffle_Live_Edge_Speakers.pdf

More info here

https://www.diyparadiso.com/datasheets/speaker/beyma/15xm.pdf

Price 450 euro plus shipping . I'm in Bucharest , Romania . Trades are possible with a good 15 or 18 inch woofers , with FS 25 hz or lower and 10mm Xmax .

Ian Canada conditionerpi 5v including the two caps.

Preferred to EU only. Paypal. Buyer may determine shipping company.

50,-

or trade (if allowed?) to staitonpi or reclockpi.

I had done some tweaks to my KH4400a some years ago. Recently several things, including getting a much better distortion analyzer got me back at working through the mods to confirm which are worthwhile and how clean it can get. Now is the time to document those changes. First I must thank AGDR for getting me to actually get this done.

The as shipped KH4400A (and closely related KH4402B) are quite good. Especially given it was designed in 1980 with the limitations of 1980 opamps.

The mod consists of replacing 5 opamps, and bypassing some excess internal circuitry. In 1980 your opamp choices for a project like this would be NE5532 or LM318 or very similar. A few ultra high performance opamps were available but expensive and hard to use.

The current generation of opamps form TI/National are a good fit for this task. They have the necessary drive and output swing with really linear internal circuitry and GBW to get extremely low distortion.

Keep in mind this is an instrument, not an audio product. I am focusing on changes that show lower distortion and noise on the output. No improvement, don't bother.

Short list-
Replace U100, U103, U125, U183, U141 with sockets.
Install LME49710's into all except U125. Use an OPA 134 in that location.
Recalibrate and adjust distortion for minimum 2nd harmonic.
This will get to around -110 dB THD+N. Possibly further.

Going further bypassing the discrete 'helper" circuits seems to lower the distortion more. That entails removing (or just lifting one end) of the following resistors and adding jumpers:
For the output amp U183 lift R186 and jumper from pin 6 of U183 to TP12.
Osc. Output amp U125 Lift R133, R126 and jumper U125 pin 6 to TP10.
For Inverter Amp R137, R138, R141 and jumper from U141 pin 6 to TP8.

Getting the distortion null really requires an SOTA analyzer or a passive twin-t + FFT. I'm getting approx -133 dB for all the harmonics at this stage. However at this level its easily possible that some cancellation is happening.

Schematic attached but not marked up with these changes.

For sale are genuine Renesas/Hitachi K213/J76 MOSFETs at $10/pair. I have about 20 pcs each.
Shipping at cost starting from $10.
Payment by PayPal “Friends and Family”
Thanks
Prakit

Hi all,
it is already more than 15 years ago when I listened before sleep on a radio to a jazz concert. It was really great and I was too lazy to get up and note down the band and album. I did not remember when I woke up.

It was a live jazz concert from a US club, the artist should be quite well known, because the moderator talket about him and his band for quite some time. And it was supposed to be a kind of cult recording. The name was something like John Smith Trio (or band) and the whole concert over one hour was one large improvisation on famous tunes and melodies, but in a very jazzy style, even kind of hard to guess. I remember melodies like Imperial March from Star Wars, Ride of Valkyries, My Fair Lady and many others everyone knows.

Any tips appreciated! Someone must know this record🙂

Amp Camp Amp Redux bare PCBs. These are the Mark Johnson versions that have the SMPS filters built in. Thread here. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/aca-redux.381346/
They cost me $8 per pair but I cannot use all 5 pair. I will sell them at my cost plus shipping in a flat rate padded USPS priority envelope. So $9.65 + $8.00 per pair = $17.65 per pair including shipping. Can probably ship two or three pair in one flat rate enevelope if you want that and you can save money on shipping. Please PM me if interested.

I've placed some information about using moving-coil cartridges with the RedRoo preamp at: https://www.redrookits.com/phono-preamplifier/
You can download a pdf. It's pretty general so I'd be interested if some eagle-eyes can find some holes in it... thanks Phil

I'm repairing a Kenwood Model 500 amplifier finally after buying it 5 years ago, part of that sale was to take the aftermarket 'audiophile mains cable off' for the seller, however now I've come to put a new one in I'm not sure its wired correctly?

This is double insulated. Neutral is fused not live, not sure this is the way it was from factory? Should this be changed? I'm assuming its the UMX type as its the only one with a 4 amp fuse. On the attached pics 1st is how it is now, second pic could it be changed to this? I am in the UK so 230v

Last year, with lots of help from this forum, I put together a pair of three way PA cabinets (15"/10"/3"compression).

I was very pleased with the result, but I feel like some refinements ahould at least be attempted.

I have been running three-way speakers with active crossovers for many years, but this is my first venture into custom speakers. In the past I've always been handed cabinets with specific ratings and settings for EQ and crossover points.

I'm hoping for some advice on two aspects of this process. The first is simply this: what do you listen for when you've put together a custom cabinet and are looking for ways to refine the result? For example, do you listen to the drivers separately, or together? Obviously I guess together but also separately? Are there certain telltale signs that your phase plug is doing a good job or a poor job in this application?

Particularly with regards to the cubic volume of the housing for the mid range driver, which is loaded into a molded horn, how do I assess when the volume of the drivers enclosure is at its sweet spot?

The second advice I'm looking for a relates to tools. All I have at the moment is a modest Klein multimeter.

I could probably either afford a pro audio resistance meter or an RTA microphone. Or is there something else?

I have a limited budget, so please prioritize your answers to this, and if you recommend specific products, don't recommend the best product available, recommend the best value.

Wish you all happy new year 2023.
Since 2010 I member this forum, I know there is lot of electronic experts will help short out my problem.
I bought used Beo Sound 9000 Mk3 (Type 2572) along with Beo Lab 8000 3 months ago, after 3 months used, I have problem with CD audio output. When I loaded CD's and pressed play button CD start playing time count runs till 1 to 3 minutes there is no sound in both L&R speakers, and then I can hear songs missing some lines. I had tried to isolate speakers, and directly connect headphone to CD player and listening during CD playing, same problem in headphone 1 to 2 min no sounds both L&R channels. This CD player have Digital output (coaxial) I connect to my headphone DAC play CD's I can hear songs immediately once CD start playing! This Beo Sound having FM & Aux input those all working fine, I mean when changed input I hear sound once pressed input button.
I have some experience repairing CD player and amplifiers, also Beo Sound 9000 service manual available out there. Based on my troubleshooting, the problem may be in PCB32 Input/output select & Digital/analog decoder board. I have enclosed manual and schematic for your ready reference. All electronics components are SMDs.
I was suspect PCB32 mute circuit problem there are Aux mute/ Power link Mute (delaying sound issue) /headphone mute (delaying sounds issues) /Master Link Mute.
I had checked power link mute transistors 2SC4213 as per schematic location PCB32 RH channel TR21/22 - LH channel TR23/24 find good no abnormalities. Also check headphone mute transistors 2SC4213 location TR15/16/17/18 found good no abnormalities. Measured resister value around transistors found within values.
Digital/Analog Decoder circuit location IC1 & 2 HEF4094BT pin 6 (Power link Mute) connected TR601 - PUMT1 & R608/R609/610 all found normal. Now I have suspect only IC2 - HEF4094BT?
a. Suspect mute transistors (2SC4213) used LH & RH separate as well as headphone mute, I have problem in both channels delaying sounds
b. Suspect power supply, same PCB board using for FM & Aux no issues in sounds
Please I need expert helps, there will be problem in IC - HEF4094BT? Rajkumar

Hello friends, does anyone have the names or numbers of these components marked with B1, H1 and C5? they are from a nemesis amplifier na-fr1000d greetings

I'm new to DIY speakers, but I'm having fun and learning. I've learned enough to be dangerous, but that's enough to attempt a first build. I used a few different online tools to create the initial 3-way design and then messed around with xSim to refine it. I settled on a 3rd order passive and have what looks to me like a decent result. I know this can't be perfect as I've not modeled the crossover with respect to the enclosure. So a few questions - 1) I've attached the frequency and impedance curves and would like opinions on them. Is this a good result or should I continue to refine? 2) What's next? Should I build it and then test/refine some more? 3) Also attached is my board layout. The board 16" X 16" and all parts are to scale. I'm using Jantzen caps, Solen 14 AWG inductors, and plan to use 14 AWG solid core OCC copper to point to point wire the entire crossover. I know I could better optimize the wiring, but some of the way it's shown is to help me keep everything straight when I build it. Thanks in advance for your help.

Always wanted to try to build a transmission line speaker, but given the same outer dimensions (ie same internal volume)
Wich cabinet will yield the best low end/bass performance in terms of the lowest -3db produced?

This is the driver I intend to use, and in combination with peerless CT62H, and only a 1.st order filter on the tweeter. No filter on the bass midrange. I have used this combination in a car before, with surprisingly good results.

SOLD

Asking $25 $20 including US shipping.


I will not be building these, seeing if somebody else would like these to persue the project.

Still in original wrapping.

Is there anyone who can tell if this invention can be applied to HI-FI ?
https://newatlas.com/feng-thin-flexible-speaker-microphone/49562/

Good morning to All,
the mains voltage transformers inside the amplifiers are still quite mysterious objects to me. I have often read that the quality of the transformer has a decisive impact on the performance of the amplifier. For example, the secret behind the successes of brands like Naim would be the transformers designed and built to very high quality standards.
So I have questions running through my head. But in particular one.
How important is the current output capacity of a transformer for the final sound quality? I believe very much
Let's take a 500VA unit for example. Now you can get 500 with 100V (i.e. +/-50V) and 5A ... but also with 50V (+/-25V) and 10A.
is there an optimum ratio between V and A in a transformer to be used in an audio amplifier ?
In the case above we go from a ratio of 20 to 5 .... a big difference
The lower the better ?
I do not know for sure but i suspect that the transformers used by Naim are low in voltage and high in current ? is this a recipe for good sound ?
Thanks and best regards, gino

Working on a Marantz 2325. No sound. Getting .4 to .5 volts DC going to relay board from audio signal. Relay board is in bad need of recapping but I have isolated the signal from the relay board and still .5 volts DC both channels. Does anyone recall this symptom on a previous repair? Thanks

SOLD
Asking $30 including US shipping
I built up this Mark Johnson AC Power Relay and Soft start for typical Pass amps, but do not need it.

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ains-relay-includes-soft-start-h9kpxg.354971/

Tested and works fine.

I will include a blue ring lite LV switch that should work fine with this board.

SOLD


Asking $35 including US shipping.

This is an extra Ship of Theseus PSFilt board, built using spec'd parts and tested with the correct brick supply.

CLOSED - in the bin

Before I throw them in the bin I have single SBxxPFC midwoofers to give away as a set. Australia only and member to pay for postage for both items.

SB13PFC25-08 which I used in the workshop as a test speaker and in very good condition, F3=58Hz.

SB16PFC25-04 which I used in a active bass speaker for a mini system and in very good condition, F3=49Hz.

Hello good people

I have just purchased a pair of Welborne DRD 45 power amps, and as a newcomer to this amplifier I have a few questions, that don't seem to be covered elsewhere.

1. On first appearance it seems to have a valve rectifier, but when I look inside, it's only the heater that's connected to the rectifier valve for effect. Is this normal?

2. Can anyone direct me to a link for the schematic and build manual?

3. It plays beautifully, but the levels of hum from my open baffles is annoying. I have minimised it using the hum pots, but what else can I do?

4. Is there a forum where debate on these amps is centred?

Thanks Chris

Hi,

i recently bought a cheap TDA7850 amp board, however i have some issues with it that i can‘t seem to figure out.
General performance is excellent, measured distortion and noise floor is well within spec and i sounds great even on high sensitivity horns.
(I bought it to power a two way speaker with limmer 042 horn. They are dead quiet on this amp, )

Now come the issues: first of all, i needed to increase the input capacitance to > 1uf, as the lf cutoff with the factory .1uf ceramics was around 300hz, as opposed to 16hz in the datasheet.
In addition to that the output offset voltage sits around 2.9v instead of supposedly 6v with a 12v supply. Thats costing me 6db of headroom, which is more or less what i‘d like to have more for raised home listening levels (the accompanying 15" needs quite some boost in the low range, as it‘s just a pseuso full range box, requiring dsp to get there, as usual im pa world).

Does anyone have an idea what could cause this? Could it have something to do with the surrounding circuit? I looks more or less similar to the reference design in the datasheet. Or might it be because of a fake or factory reject chip? Unfortunately it is the upside down version, so it‘s hard to check the label. I slightly lifted it up once and i didn‘t find the obvious signs of sanding down/ reengraving the chip...

hello again friends, this time I come to ask for your support to solve a problem with a kenwood kac-x1200m amplifier, which with any load, blows the output fets, at idle the waves and output signal look good after of the coils, but when I start to give more volume it cuts off as if it were protected and returns repeatedly until it reaches the point that it flies 1 or 2 fets from the output stage, I do not find any damage, only the damaged fets, I will check one by one of the transistors that make up the pulsation towards the greetings output fets.

SOLD

Asking $75, including US shipping.

I am selling this SLB Power supply board, as I am not going to build the amp it was intended for.

Parts were sourced per the V1.2 BOM, so it should be able to be used within the parameters discussed by XRK971 in the thread

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ct-crc-cap-mx-class-a-power-supply-gb.336479/

The large BJTs are on flying leads to a small heat sink that can be mounted to a board or subassembly.

Three additional chips are also provided in this sale, maybe you could use them in another build or keep as spares.

1) BD140

1) TTA1943Q

1) TTC5200Q

These power supplies have performed well in other amps for me and provide a very quiet supply.

I will ship via USPS.

I am experimenting with an extended bass shelf speaker idea. it will be a wide face and shallow depth box flat againts the wall (and surely i can fill it up with stuff to make it smaller). im going with a 12L box because some other drivers i am playing will fit this box well and i have some spare wood.

is 12L tuned to 45Hz to big and low? i am trying to exploit room gain and a large baffle and positioned near the wall to bring the shelf up 2dB.
i know this is not ideal, looking to build a fun not accurate speaker. or will going this far make the lower end less pronounced?
Green line Vb=12L Fb=45Hz F6=38hz
Pink line Vb=10L Fb=55hz F6=46Hz
normally i saw this driver in 7L boxes.
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10L and 7L with Fb55hz have basically the same F6. so might aswell save on wood and use a 7L, but the 12L is still interesting with a flat bass shelf that plays -2dB less but almost 10Hz lower.
anyways, it is a wacky idea with cheap drivers. what are your predictions?

Hello,

I have a Kt88 tube amplifier that I ran some tests on with The Stuff Made audio analyzer suite. In the THD Test after it hits 10k hz the distortion drops like a cliff. I dont have a whole lot of experience testing amplifiers and would like to know if anyone can tell me if this is normal. I attached a screenshot.

Thanks

I've had this $60 Chinese "Breeze Audio" DAC with ES9038Q2M + XMOS XU208, in my parts bin for a few years.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832769021342.html
https://i.postimg.cc/JhXCRD8N/s-l1600.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/BJsLwTpZ/s-l1600.jpg

Looks similar to Topping d10, and the Breeze might have potential for DIY.
Maybe short those output coupling caps for starters?

Anyone know where I could purchase a sheet or two?

I need help with a diagram or part number for ic3 on my taramps bass 8k please. Mine was so burnt it crumbled and can't read any info to look it up. Any help would be appreciated...

I have a taramps bass 8k and my ic3 smoked and I can't read anything on it ... if anyone knows what the part number is so i can order from mouser I would greatly appreciate it ... I tried looking thru photos of the board but nothings legible ... thanks in advance

Hello all,

First post here. I have an old 1950's Stancor A-8101 5W universal line to voice coil transformer. I'm using it to couple household 120v AC mains to the output of an old Eico 377 audio sine wave generator that I believe uses 6K6 output tubes. Some old school clocks I'm working on require a high frequency signal sent over the AC line to engage the correction mechanism. This setup working perfectly, but the Stancor transformer is in fairly poor physical shape.

I'd like to replace it with a modern equivalent if possible. The Stancor catalog lists it as a 500 ohm primary side and either 3.2 ohm lug or 6-8 ohm lug on the secondary side. AC mains is hooked to secondary COM lug and 6-8ohm lug. I'm not very knowledgeable in this area, and researching hasn't really dug up a modern 500 ohm to either 6 ohm or 8 ohm one, much less one with a single 6-8 ohm secondary lug. Can I substitute a more common 600 ohm to 8 ohm transformer or is there a special reason why the Stancor transformer had a secondary range value 6-8 ohms instead of either 6 ohm or 8 ohm?

I have a few Bogen PA system 70v transformers, but was hesitant to try them and fry something. Basically, am I stuck with using old output transformers made over half a century ago?

Thanks,
Ian

Hi diy'ers, want some recommends I've previously asked perhaps in the wrong forum section, about the Hypex UcD700HG/HxR with an existing linear power supply and a custom made control/protection board.

However my main concern now is the protection trigger circuit, this has to be triggered if the UcD module pull to low the pin-10, but looking carefully the pdf datasheet of both modules, the UcD700 seems to have a 47k resistor in between while the UcD2k just directly pull to ground pin-10 without any resistor apparently, and the simple protection circuit I've designed need at least ~2mA to trigger the optocoupler reliably.

Unfortunately the closest optocoupler I've simulated on LTspice was the PC817A, but I have no way to simulate the SFH617A-4 since is not in the component list of the latest LTspice, also the SFH617A-4 will be feed with +24v through a 10k resistor and tested ok on the bench, however I can't activate it through a 47k resistor.

Hope some experienced users with the UcD700HG and the UcD2k can confirm this, so I can design a more sensitive/discrete trigger protection circuit or just find some PC817A replacement before ordering the PCB's.

Here is the DC-Error/Protection circuit of the Hypex modules:
UcD700HG:


UcD2k:


Also re-post the project in question images for reference:

Regards!

Hi

DCX 464 are sold but ,

the B&C ME464 horns are sold

I am still selling a pair of crossovers $150 for both .
the crossovers were built with better parts by madisound with the published schematics from B&C .
crossovers are unused .

paypal adds fees . shipping within conus included

I got this to make it work for a friend.The Off and left right switches were not working,cleaned and made them straight...then lubed the platter bearing with compressor oil .Tomorrow some white lithium grease and fine silicon oil will find its way to the tonearm sliding mechanism, all grease and oils being brought to me by a very good friend @sergiu2009 .
It came without the cartridge and having one unused I got the full refurbishment job.
Some minor problems need to be chequed.
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As the title says - In an underhung motor design where the voice coil is entirely within the magnetic 'air' gap, do shorting / faraday / demodulation rings have any impact?

I scavenged samsung passive 3ohm 170watt subwoofer.
I want to use it with my desktop PC speakers, if I can power it without buying equipment


Can I use a 2.1ch 4ohm as if I only use the subwoofer channel & keep the volume <50%?

Or use a lower voltage psu on the amp, or a series resistor ?

Hello beautiful people! May the 2023 be the best year for you all! I am looking (preferably from Europe) one of the following power amps to get :
-Onkyo grand integra M-510.
-Accuphase P-360.
-Accuphase P-500.
-Accuphase P-500l.
Please PM me for anything 🙂
thanks a lot!
George.

Both in real live and according usual flow charts in the service manuals spindle motor starts just after 3-times up-down procedure of laser lens and follow sending FOK signal.
Now I have a device (model CDX 730E) on the desk with an issue mentioned in the head line (without TOC reading, of course - up-down procedure and laser light in this period of time is present).
This problem appeared suddenly.
This behavior is identical also without insert compact disc.
Such behavior I haven't observe until now. Changing of laser unit (KSS-150A/KSS-210A and even completely mechanism (SONY KSL-210AFM/KSL-2102AAM) don't provide any change - this means, both the disc motor (brushed version from Mabuchi) and the laser-unit are responsible for this behavior.

How should I start the trouble shooting procedure ?
Thanks for comments.

This threads don't provide the wanted information:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/yamaha-cdx-1100-spindle-motor-driver-problem.288084/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/problems-with-yamaha-cdx-1100.154872/

Thought of starting a thread about getting a good sound in relation to the price.
Here you can perform any drivers. Cheap or expensive that you think works well in the box construction you have chosen.
Extra fun if you've created something that doesn't cost much.
Feel free to make a list of drivers that you think will be good in relation to the price.
Drivers on a budget.

Hallo everyone,
I search a long time a data sheet ore book collection from optical pick up's especially from Sony (widest type range).
Only from Samsung I have found complete datas online - see
CDP Traverse Deck Model CMS-B35BG6 (Samsung Laser-Unit SOH-AAV) Part-No CDM31279
http://www.haluyatech.com/down/sgnec/CMS-B35BG6-20040303.pdf
CDP Traverse Deck Model CMS-B33SG6 (Samsung Laser-Unit SOH-AAX)
http://www.haluyatech.com/down/sgnec/CMS-B33SG6(20030210).pdf
Please let me know more about such data books from all KSS types.
Thank you very much,
Best regards
Andreas Kirschner

I have for sale 2 Hammond 193T chokes (50 mH/2A DC). I purchased these from another DIYAudio member for a MoFo amp but don't need them any longer. I believe they are unused. These are currently selling for $49 each on Mouser, so how about $49 for both of them, plus actual shipping (should fit in a flat rate box).