VTL IT-85 Schematic Needed

I'm in search of schematic for IT-85.

Peculiar problem between V101 and V102, intermittent loss of signal, V101 has a signal on pin 1, but it's not making it to V102. I see there are a couple of relays in there.

In addition, the other channel does not mute when the amplifier is warming up or after shutdown.

I've been over the solder joints that are accessible, but the next step is major disassembly to get that PCB out for inspection/repair.

A schematic would at least tell me what's in the signal path between those two tubes.

Problem suspected to be somewhere under the mass of wires and switch on the right hand side of this photo:

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Adjusting an old bias pot did some damage and I am unsure how to proceed

The unit is a Sony TA1150 integrated that I've had since 2018. It was unwell when I bought it but it did power up and it did pass signal. I did not use it per se, just hooked up for the odd listen over a couple of years then there came a time when it stopped amplifying.

I learned some transistors failed, outputs and drivers so i replaced them with those which were recommended. I also replace the electrolyltic capacitors associated with the power supply. At that point the amplifier was working well enough to leave connected in a small "hobby room" system.

Not long ago, the pilot lamp did not light up. I did the disassembly necessary to repair that and thought it was a good time to replace all the electrolytic capacitors and that task spanned several days. When all the new electrolytic capacitors were in place, I used a 40 watt DBT to check for shorts and there were none. It went dark almost immediatly after turning on the power switch.

Since a number of components were new, I decided to check and if necessary, re-set the bias. Since the DBT went dark right away and my understanding was not to use a DBT when setting bias, the amplifier was plugged dirctly in to wall power.

As per the service manual, the target is 25mv and the left channel bias was pretty close. The right channel was nearly 60mv so I attempted to adjust that channel's bias pot.

As I rotated the pot, both 1.6A fuses blew and I noticed the telltale odor of an overheated component. Even now, I fail to see anything that shows heat damage.

My next step was replaing the fuses and turning the amp on using a DBT which went bright and stayed bright so there was now a short.

I pulled all eight output transitors, which are now four MSJ15032G and four MSJ15033G. One 15032 and one 15033 in the right channel were damaged. At that point I ordered new 1K ohm bias pots. When they arrived, I installed them and I replaced the two bad output transistors.

Again with a DBT, I turned on the power. DBT went bright, stayed bright and both fuses blew again. As a shot in the dark, I replaced all eight of the output transistors one more time on the off chance that some others were injured and would fail under load. There was no change, DBT wet bright, stayed bright and both fuses blew.

My last attempt to trouble shoot the short was to remove all eight output transistors and see what the DBT did in conjunction with a variac but that too changed nothing. DBT got bright with the variac around 50 volts. I went no further so fuses are still intact.

I am unsure at this time what to do next. My hope is that some knowedgable person here can point me towards the cause of this shorting problem. I don't particulary want to junk this amplifier, I bought it for a reason. A Sony TA1150 was the very first brand new amplifier I ever bought. That was in 1973 and I was 20 years old.

Doing the math, that makes me 71 and my intention was to make this TA1150 my final amplifier. A kind of ironic twist that only I would appreciate.

Sony TA1150 power amp and power supply.PNG

Markaudio 10.3 monitor recomendation

Hello dear DIY Forum members!
As a new member, I would like to introduce myself. My name is Gerd and I live on the southern, outer green belt of Cologne, near the Rhine.

I intend to build a reflex shelf speaker with a Mark Audio Alpair 10. 3 with the sonic orientation of a monitor speaker which displays clean 48 - 50 Hz.

Thanks for the tips!

Kind regards Gerd

Hi from a lurker since 2018

Hi!

Just wanted to post a quick presentation before posting ordinary stuff 😉
I've been a lurker since 2018 (yes that's true) and I'm mostly into tape decks restoring (cassette) but also DAT and Sony Walkman's.
Some times a few NAD or JVC has passed through too.

Currently I'm refreshing my amp (NAD) and speakers (B&W) corner and I've seen quite a few interesting topics around restoring AMPs which
I truly believe I can both learn and contribute with something since being into electronic construction and service the whole 90's.

Kind regards from Sweden,
Per

FR for MI use

- was going to yank a PRV 10FR300 from a 0.62 scaled Karlson K
15 and though- might as well give it a go with mono TPA3255 and a bass guitar preamp pedal.
- well its pretty darn good and can do some strong treble transients without folding or obvious distortion.

I might demo it but am losing use of both arms, etc. and its difficult to hold a guitar. I used a cheap but cheerful Glarry short scale (30") bass with one single coil pickup- very extended on the top - weak in the E string. (will raise that end and see what compromise I can get.

Small bass rigs need not be tuned low nor go low - the majority of what I've heard relied upon a bass guitar's lower note's harmonics being considerably stronger than the fundamental.
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Rebuilt NAD M3 and can’t bias one channel, is the posistor my problem?

I received a NAD M3 quite a while ago with issues. 100% down to bad capacitors, that thing was full of bad capacitors, even the main filters were complete garbage. I was stupid in trading away and fairly nice Wyred4Sound amplifier in exchange for it. Oh well.

The NAD is beautiful, it took me a while, but I did a full recap on it, every single electrolytic in it. I got it all back together and adjusted bias on the first channel and then when I went to set it on the other channel, I found I had no adjustment whatsoever. I said it down and walked away as I had plenty of other stuff to do. Now I kind of wanna just finish it up so I can, check it out. I went through the usuals, like checking, transistors and resistors and so far have not found any issues.

I have course checked the two devices mounted to the heat sink as they generally have something to do with bias current. One of the items is a thermal breaker and it has continuity so it is good. The other thing is a “posistor” which this is the first time I’ve ever heard of this device.

I checked the schematic and this is all that I could find in there regarding it, it goes between two pins on a ribbon cable. From what I understand, it increases in resistance as it gets hotter.
IMG_1924.jpeg


I figured it would be similar to a thermistor and would measure similar to a diode. I measured the device on the channel and sure enough it measured as a diode with a voltage drop of .2v
IMG_1926.jpeg


I measured the one on the bad channel and it came up as no device detected
IMG_1927.jpeg


But I’m wondering if that’s OK, because the description of it is that it’s a device that increases resistance as a heats. The good one measures 42 ohms across it. The “bad” one measures 53 ohms. Though I believe this helps answer my question as that 53 ohms is kind of flaky.


I would swap the components between the channels, but it’s an absolute pain to get to the hardware of the devices and to dismantle and assemble the channels/amplifier. So I’m thinking I would like to just purchase a device and throw it in if you all think that it is indeed bad

What would I throw in there? It’s marked with “F1 63”
IMG_1925.jpeg


The manual does not give much information other than the part number being 07-70471-08 and T=80c.

I am having trouble tracking down a PTC that is rated for 80c and 42 ohms, I’m guessing that’s what it is supposed to be since that’s what the good one measures. If I go with those specs, I’m limited to some surface mount components. I am not seen anything for being mountable to a heat sink.

Thank you so much!
Dan

need help to remove the hizzz and buzz sounding

Hi, recently I made bold move, trying to use Homepod Gen 1 woofer to make my very first active speakers. The project from my design stage till now it gone to more than five month. (I works on it during the weekends)

Here are some basic specs:

Class-D amplifier: Chinese DIY Duo chips Infineon 12070
Player: Chinese DIY player board
Amplifier Power supply: DC 12V, 13A
Player power supply: DC 5V 2A
(All power supply I install in different chamber from speaker)
Audio signal wire use: Shield wire with both shield end attached to ground.
Corssover design: DIY

After I painstakingly assembling all the components and hundreds of wiring soldering. I plugged into the power socket, thankfully, there is no explosion and all functions normally.

But there just one thing that bothers me is this speaker keep having ziiiiii, hummmm, Siiiiiii, Giiiii sounding, I can easily hear it when the amplifier volume turns to 50%, when in 100%, it is more noticeable.

I am not sure what it causing the problem. The player, Amp, wiring, shielding or what other?

Should I use BBQ aluminum foil to cover my amplifier and player so to reduce the EMI? Or should I use aluminum foil to wrap the audio signal cables and separate them from tie them together with the power cables?

What should I do to illiminate EMI? I still dont want my project gone into the junk bin.

Any suggestion or advise are welcome.

Thanks.

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Do cylindrical plate, round anode tubes sound better?

Thomas Mayer has just released 3 new tubes, One, Two and Three with cylindrical plates. He makes a case for these sounding better.

I've read this opinion before, e.g. from directdriver -

"I find round plate small signal triodes offer the most pleasing sound, e.g. Tungsol 6SN7 with round plates. So I try to use 6J5 or 27, 37, 56, 76, 6P5 whenever possible at a much cheaper price. I always go for cylindrical over flat plate so two 6J5s instead of one 6SN7."

I also use 27, 37, 56, 76 as small signal tubes so no argument there. But I can think of many superb tubes like 10Y with flat anodes.

So what's the truth in this?

Italian R2R ladder DAC, no CPID/DSP

Has anyone tried this r2r dac from an Italian guy?

It uses only discrete logic - (74hc74 and 74hc595) so no cpld or dsp) and stops the clock after the data is transferred. It came with TL082 opamps which will be replaced with LME49720 or OPA2134.

The price is low enough for me to buy one but haven't tried it yet as I haven't finished assembling my LiPO4 power supply.

I2s source is from a standard DIR9001 spdif interface.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325231264279

I will shortly be doing a comparison of my dual TDA1541 dac, my quad balanced AD1862 and the above and also a Cambridge Audio Azur 651c Cd player (TDA1305 continuous calibration dac) and a Cambridge Dacmagic 1 (two WM7840 in balanced configuration).

Will my ancient ears be able to hear any difference!

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Band-pass filter comparison

I read the paper of Robert M. Bullock, III and it presented two different types of band-pass filters. In the paper, it calls the transformation and the cascaded band-pass filters.

I admit that I did not fully understanding them. Consequently, I'd like to ask for advice about what the differences are between them, as well as the pros and cons.

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1970s power amp PA volume problem

Hi, Im looking for assistance to problem-solve a 1972 80 watt PA power amp made by Jansen in New Zealand (we have 240 volts mains power)

Im running it with a matching 2x12 cabinet to play bass guitar through

The amp makes a lot of loud scratching and popping noise when powering up for about 30 seconds, and also when powering down

When it calms down after powering up it runs ok, but I get an intermittent low volume drop after a few minutes of playing. Occasionally the volume increases again after a strong signal but it is intermittent and unpredictable

Checked the internal amp for any obvious problems and found a burnt resistor. Replaced it, but the problem remains

The PA amp has obviously not been used for a long length of time

I wonder if the two power transistors (RCA 40636) and large caps ((3000 mfd) in the power section need replacing. How can I test these or trace the volume drop issue?

Any advice welcome : )

RIP, Charles Rulau (Holzarbeiter)

Charles and I first came into contact last year while I was working on a VRDN group buy. He was honest, funny, sometimes gruff and the kind of person who rarely minced words. I learned early on of his fight with cancer, which finally took his life on June 30th of this year. As our conversations grew past the basics of the initial discussion, we were in contact nearly every day: I have 52 pages of conversation to remember him by. We shared stories of family and hopes of projects we could finish and kicked each other around when things didn't go as fast as we wanted. When I would wander off trying to figure out a way to do something and came up with a crazy solution, he'd tell me, "No! That's now how you do it" and then describe to me a perfectionist machinist's way of accomplishing the task. Of course, I'd fire back, "I DON'T HAVE A MILL HERE, MISTER" and we'd both get a laugh.

I will miss Charles very much. There is a hole in my daily life now which will have to be filled with the gigs and gigs (and gigs) of Bach music he mailed me on thumb drives. It can't replace his friendship, his ability to cram ridiculous amounts of electronics into a small chassis, or his wry sarcasm. It will, however, remind me of him and his love of baroque music.

In tribute, here is a Harpsichord piece on period instruments which Charles believed was the only way Bach's music should be presented.

Rest in peace, my friend.

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TL431 extended

To go beyond the max voltage rating, one can stack two ( or more TL431 ) .
For instance, to acheive 48 volt one could use two devices serie connected to get twice 24 volt with a chain of four resistors 1,25K, 22.75K, 1,25 K, 22.75K.
Do you see any draw back to this.
This will have all the caracteristics of a single TL431 with two resistors 2,5K, 45.5K

This could also be used to spread the power to several devices.
This, I think is compatible with denoisering as Elvee does with a LM317 and shown successfull with a LT431.

For stereo imaging, do only L-R differences matter ?

Some argue that for accurate stereo imaging, basically only the differences between the left and right speakers matters and not the absolute flatness of the SPL function.

I think this hypothesis is testable. This test distinguishes three situations:
A) Both channels play without disturbance
B) Both channels are disturbed identically
C) The channels are disturbed differently

In these three situations, the sound (music) is evaluated for stereo separation. This can be blind tested.
If situations A and B have approximately the same separation and C clearly less, than the hypothesis is true.
If situation A is clearly better than both B and C the hypothesis is not true.
It is also possible that the results are not conclusive.

The distortions can perhaps consist of a some dips in the SPL (perhaps 2 to 5 dips, -6 dB, Q=2 between 500 Hz and 5 kHz).
If the distortion have to be identical, the dips must be the same left and right and put on the same frequencies. If the channels are disturbed differently, the dips remain the same but are put on different frequencies.

Necessary for the tests are a good speaker system and a dsp between sound source and power amplifier. The dsp should be set up in a way that it is easy to switch between the three situations.

Hafler preamp upgrades

I have this very rare preamp, is a Rockford Fosgate RF200 or also it was sold as Hafler JF200.
Is a op amp preamp
2 5532
4 TL072
6 LM833
IC LM393

The preamp got a good review, is there any room for improvements ?
I am open to suggestions

Are those red candy type of capacitors, film polypropylene ?

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For Sale Sanken 2SA1859A and 2SC4883A NOS

I bought these several years back when I had some restoration to do and bought all that BDENT had in stock. Gotta clear some of this stuff out. Don't get beat up by buying knock-offs and fakes from who knows where. I have 47 of each. Many MFGR's used these like Sansui, Marantz etc.... I know many of you like to keep the original components. I'll be listing more hard to find parts soon.

PayPal FF preferred.

$4.00 each with free shipping on orders of 10 or more. Same day shipping if purchased before my mailman comes (about noon). US Shipping only



Sanken.jpg

Advice on online speaker cable connectors

I need to be able to disconnect 3 speaker cables that run from 2 Neutrik Speakon panel connectors.
This is necessary when I remove the rear enclosures of my SH50 synergy horns.

I will remove them to halve the cabinet weight when I need to move them around.

Currently the cables are soldered to the Neutrik spade terminals and ditto to the drivers. Long enough to slow the rear enclosure to be lifted and dropped m into place.

I'm using 1 X 2 way neutrik plug and 1 X 1 way.

What simple robust, good quality, inexpensive inline connectors could be recommended for this?

I've looked at Neutrik and clone offerings, they are all a bit bulky and might need taping or other to stop them rattling around?

Something positive clicking together and perhaps silver plated like Neutriks.

I would need 6.

Other ideas welcome.

BYD17D Replacement options.

I'm currently trying to repair a primare integrated.
I need 8x BYD17D or substitutes for the power supply section.
These are Controlled avalanche rectifiers.
200v 1.5amp in SOD87 package.
Att is the pdf for said device.
I can only find places that list them as obsolete with no recommended alternatives.

Help, Ta 🙂

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Cascading two low-pass filters

Has anyone ever seen this kind of loudspeaker's crossovers in this picture?

calc_cr_12db.gif


It looks like there are two second-order low-pass filters cascading. I'm not sure if it is aimed for creating the half-way system or not, i.e., 2.5 or 3.5-way speaker system.

If it is meant for the half-way system, then, are there any formula for calculating those L1, C1, L2, C2 parameters? Assume WF#1 and WF#2 are identical.

Problem with dual supply amplifier (triple emitter follower)

Hi, i stumbled on a schematic for a class A amplifier with very low output distortuion (0.008% at MAX power).

I picked this schematic from a book, but is seems like there is something WRONG in it!!!!

I built this circuit two times, and two times it had the SAME problem:

When i power the negative rail, the output of the amplifier is just DC voltage. If i power the positive rail, it does not care at all (nothing happens). If i power both, still always DC voltage on the output.

WHY is that!!!?

It's not even built in a prototype board but on a dual layer PCB that i very carefully designed on PC, then i ordered it online.

Two attempts, two failures.

Can you understand if this schematic is actually wrong?

Thank you.

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Please welcome, me

Hi diy'ers

I've been a lurker for a long time and found many solutions on your forum. I've never been a user though.

I have been a user on audiosciencereview for many years where I've learnt a lot about audio measurements. I think maybe, through learning this, I've come to realize how flawed the concept often is carried out in the actual reviews and following viewpoints on the site.

There is no room for proper discussion about this. You can either do exactly what the owner and his enforcers tell you to do with no questions asked or you can get the hard treatment with no respect to what you might else have accomplished on the forum, how many you've helped etc. I've seen this happen to many prominent users over the years.
They pride themselves for being scientifical. It's mostly superficial knowledge and echo chambering of the largest voices opinions circling around. In my mind this is not much better than the audiophiles discussing cable risers.
I come with a mixed engineering background; both electrical and mechanical b.sc. with thirty years of experience. I hope to contribute to the topics I find interesting here.

/Brad
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Choosing a top for 3 way

Hi there everyone. Its been a while since I took on any audio projects and have a few piled up I want to chip away at.

One burning question is regarding my 3 way setup. I run a Driverack 260 and active setup and am planning to make a large 3 way speaker and my selected mid is JBL 2251J which is a 10" driver and a JBL 2245 for bass. Kind of thinking in vein of the 4345.

For HF I have a few different drivers and guides on hand and was wondering if anyone had any guidance... Not sure what will work or if any will work well due to the mid size, as I think most of the CD waveguides are meant to mate to a 12".

The drivers I have on hand are a pair of JBL/Selenium D220ti OMF bolt on and a pair of Celestion CDX1-1745 which were originally for another project but may use if applicable and suited.

My waveguides are the B52 QSC clone, DDS CFD1-90 Pro, and also a threaded set of Dayton 6512 that I was considering maybe a JBL 2408H2 (others are NLA).

Curious if anyone had any guidance in selecting a HF unit for a project like this. Thanks in advance.

Hello World!

I'm out of Indiana, mechanical engineer by day. I lucked into some vintage audio equipment about 10 years ago and have been hooked on HiFi ever since. I dabbled in building a little with EPS foam exciter speakers and an equalizer. The results were good, but now I'm looking to build weird and/or 3D printed speakers with high wife approval factor.

Acoustically small horn vs flared vent

Hi all,
I am designing a subwoofer for 20-80hz region to complete a sound system I’ve bought, I’ve got a great interest for horns but think my space requirements are too small for a folded or tapped horn, but I really want that aggressive look of folded horns/scoops/bph
my plan is to design a 6th order band pass enclosure with rectangular ports flaring i guess in a conical ish way- straight lines expanding to a larger mouth

I’m really struggling to find how to model this/ find forum posts or literature on how this affects port tuning, everything I’ve seen is for exponentially flared circular ports which only affects the air velocity, I’m not sure how the length and different volume of air will affect the tuning of the port. The only thing I can think of is plugging a bunch of differently flared boxes into akabak and see what happens but this will take days if not weeks as I’m not very proficient in akabak yet.

I’ve read the explanation on free speaker plans about bandpass enclosures under 1.67m in horn length but need some more help understanding before I can design

So: how does flaring a rectangular port change the tuning? With the different volume how does that affect the tuning? Does the vent have to be the same length, or does it have to be the same volume of air?

Thanks in advance, it’s a silly question I know☹️
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Hello there!

Hello from the Pacific Northwest! I'm getting back into audio after a two-decade hiatus. I am planning a 2-channel setup for semi-serious music listening, and I've also put together a home theater system whose foundational principles were to sound decent and be super inexpensive while meeting current AV standards. Looking forward to meet folks around here and hopefully exchange good info / ideas!

GZCA 12K-SPL DC offset

Really long story....in short

Amp came in with blown up capacitors in the class D output filtering, the ones 1uf 400v between the output terminals and ground. 10ohm 5W resistor was in bad condition too.
Replaced those.
Amp now has DC offset of approximately 20v which can NOT be fixed by the trim pot, it can fix only 1-2-3volts of difference not more. It plays, no protect, class D switching is present, but as You can imagine having 20v DC on a speaker = not good.

Seems like one of the amplifiers, in RED (it is full bridge class D) works with 20v-21v LESS than the other one in BLUE. These are the only differences I found between both amps driver IC's, pictures are attached. What I understand....when having a 150v rail, there should be aprox. 75v at each output terminal....now I do have 85v at the one and 65v at the other....not good. Connecting a load does not change the DC offset. How to fix this disbalance ?
One of the amps in this full bridge, the one in RED, with less voltage present, the low side outputs are warming up. 1 minutes of idle = 60-70degrees, high side stays normal/cool.
So i've put my effort in this RED "amp" where the heating up is happening, I do use the other one BLUE "amp" as a reference as it's not heating up.
What i've replaced so far - IRS20957s, both buffers (the 6 pin drivers), all of the 15v zeners, all of the MUR120 diodes, all the resistors near the driver/buffer, IC, zeners, all of output transistors. Parts are from reputable source. So even after changing all of this, there is NO single difference. It is exactly behaving the way it was before doing any work at it.

Any ideas ?
I will attached some of my draft measures.

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Supercap/Goldcap - Replacement in my receiver after 14 years of daily use

Hello

After 14 years I decided to replace the supercap for my Denon AVR-1910.
It's a 1F, 5.5V Elko.
I just want to let you know what my measurements showed:

The capacitor now is loosing about 1V per day.
So, after 5.5 days it will be near to 0V if not charged.
The memory for the settings probably is lost earlier - I don't know it's critical voltage.

I hope this gives you a clue as to the ageing of these supercaps.

Best regards

Help choosing Purifi midrange

Hello everyone.

I want to replace my midrange speaker. Now I have an audiotechnology 18H52 17 06 cut at 300 and 3000 hz with a slope of 48db. The cut is digital with Dephonica software.

My candidates are the Purifi, but I don't know which model to choose.
PTT4.0M08-NFC-01
PTT4.0M08-NAC-03
PTT5.25X08-NFA-01
PTT6.5M08-NAA-08
PTT6.5M08-NFA-01

The upper cut must be a minimum of 2500 since I have a Raal 70-10. The woofer is a TAD1603 and can be cut higher than 300hz if necessary.

The impedance must be 8 Ohm.

The aspect that I value most is the detail.

I'm open to other speakers in that price range.

Thank you so much.
Greetings

intro - bitten by the hifi bug a long time ago

Hi fellow audio addicts,

I simply like good music of many different genre - preferably played on a (very) good system.
I've been bitten by the audio bug when exposed to better systems in a high-end show a long time ago - and it's been itching ever since.

I think there are levels of involvement in home / personal audio:
  • There are people who do not hear the difference between systems or they just do not care. From finance perspective, they are certainly the luckiest.
  • Then there are those who can hear the difference but still do not care much. Even luckier, I guess.
  • And finally those who can hear the difference and are vexed by anything inferior to the best that they have heard (which is of course, subjective, But that is fine, hearing - intricately refined as it is - is still subjective).

To my demise, I was mesmerised on the first hifi show of my life and - pleased by the revelation - immediately concluded that I have to have a B&W CDM-1 or build something from Vifa drivers. Lack of time led me to the B&W CDM-1.

I saved up for it, ordered it, took it home intoxicated by the fact of possession. Adrenaline rushing, I hooked it up with - I think - an UHER receiver, a Technics CD and some shoelaces made of copper ... aaaaand ... was of course taken aback by the lack of musicality or detail. "Not in the same league" is an expression but the experience wasn't even on the same planet. So starting off with an emotional rollercoaster, my journey begun and fortunately hasn't ended till today.

Since then, I've been walking the El Camino of hifi enthusiasts, going step-by-step, stocking up a few of everything. Never (ok, rarely) regretted any of it, I've always learnt something, getting closer and closer to the goal that can never be reached.
I've achieved an acceptable compromise years ago (with an actively driven biamped electrostatic speaker and able amplification (partly DIY), good cabling and sources. It did cost money of course - may be considerable - but it has never wrecked the family budget. I'm quite keen on getting a good price-performance ratio.

I'm more into DIY experimenting nowadays, currently after good desktop speakers that I can listen to while in home office. A small Fountek FR135EX project is on the way, but more to come, if circumstances allow.

All the best to the community; may your journey be enjoyable!

Recommendation for Forte 4 Review / Repair - Western NC Area

Hi Everyone -

My brother's Forte 4 lost the left channel after a power surge. I didn't have much for diagnostics while travelling, so I did what any responsible little brother would do... I gave it a VERY brief once over ... found a dud negative rail fuse... didn't see anything else suspect ... replaced the fuse ... and powered it up. The left channel came back up / warmed up.

I didn't have proper tools nor schematics while I was on vacation to do an in-depth review of the amp. I saw that it warmed up, and that the offset was <20mV. I sent him on his way. So, when he got it home, he hooked it up. The volume was lower on that channel, and then the replacement fuse blew after a few minutes.

So, someone with the proper tools and the schematics / service manual will need to give it a look. I had John Soderberg go through it many years ago and do all the updates etc. I can definitely send it back out to John if necessary.

However, I sent it to John before I ever became active in DIY. I'd have my brother send it to me, but I don't have schematics or a service manual. Also, if any of the parts need replacement, I may not have easy access to replacements.

Plus, it's is pride and joy (as it should be). So, I'd prefer to have someone that knows these amps go through it.

tl;dr - Does anyone know someone they'd vouch for in the Western NC area (near Asheville) or within a few hours drive that could repair the amp? If not, I'll have him send it off to John.

Note - My brother found https://ncstereoman.com/info/category/home/page/3/

Heck if any of you are willing to give it a looksee, I'd be more than grateful.

Thanks in advance.

Huge 2 x 18" Under Floor Subwoofer, or am I going nuts?

Hello!

I would love to hear your opinions on a project that I have in mind, which, however, may not make any sense at all... and feel free to tell me if that is the case 🙂

I am remodeling my sub-terrain wood workshop, and there is a hole in the floor from a previous heater installation, here is a close-up of that hole with its dimensions (ca. 1.5 x 2 meters, 0.5 meters deep):

shot-2024-07-11_23-14-51.jpg


It's all cement, just like the workshop floor itself. But since it is uneven, the plan is to cover the entire cement floor with a wood plank floor (leveled, sitting on shimmed beams).

But when I thought about something useful to do with this hole, the best idea I had was (at least so I think), to put a subwoofer in there.

I have two 18" McCauley 6174, which are left over from another project. For these I am planning to build a large subwoofer box (according to their T/S parameters).

Now my questions are:

  • Does it make any sense at all?
  • Would two much sound get lost, with the speakers under a wooden floor? Maybe cut slots into the wooden floor?
  • Should I worry much about dust, and maybe build the box in a way that the speakers are not directly exposed, maybe a bandpass design?

- If all else fails... any better ideas for this hole? Here is a drawing of what the finished workshop shall look like, the whole is under the long workbench, where the dimensions are still drawn:

shot-2024-07-11_23-20-01.jpg


Thanks for any input!

High Pass Filter (HPF) what is better, big Resistor or big Capacitor?

Hi

Does anybody know what is better to choose for a High Pass Filter (Mic Preamp):

Big Capacitor value, small Resistor value?
or Small Capacitor value, big Resistoe value?
Or use as special Resistor value und adjust the Capacitor for the needed Frequency?

I don't have the Tools to check it by myself at home. Otherwise I would try and measure by myself ;-).

Best regards
Lukas

For Sale Technics SP-10 MK2 MKII NEW Torlon Thrust Pad and Si3Ni4 Ball Package Price

SOLD.

This is a package deal for a brand-new silicon nitride bearing ball and Woodsong Audio Torlon thrust pad for your Technics SP-10 MK I or MK II turntable.

I ordered several thrust pads from WA (the only supplier at this time, I believe), and several new balls to supply a few friends and myself for the turntables we are all servicing/rebuilding. I have one remaining set and am making it available to you at a discount. WA sells the thrust pads for $50 and the balls cost about $5-6 each.

Your price is SOLD including shipping in a padded envelope and PP fee (only within the continental US due to the hassle of Customs forms and higher shipping costs).

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Help me to find the right 10” woofer for my 3way active

Hello all , long time in the forum but never wrote or post something.
First of all forgive my bad English , maybe that can be the reason I haven’t interact up until now but it seems I’m in a “dead end” and I need a little help, even some guidance .

So I’m all Sansui enthusiasts and I’m running a 3way active set up with AU-X11 amplifiers and a CD-10 active crossover. All equipment is fully restored and are running smoothly.

My drivers are :
Tweeter : Scanspeak 28mm Dome D2905/97000
Midrange : Morel soft Dome EM 1308
Woofer( subwoofer as described in their website ) : Visaton 8” TIW 200 XS in 30Lt cabinet .

I want to “up” my game at the low end, god forbids I have no complain from the Visaton driver but I think I need a 10” woofer …..
The Visaton in the 30Lt cabinet is tight, full and precise even at the lower volume level , I’m looking for a driver that can perform a bit better and match the quality of the other drivers .

I can not go bigger than 50lt but my budget can be high , not because I’m a rich guy but building speakers is not hobby and most likely those speakers will follow me for the coming 10 years .

Any suggestions will be much appreciated and thank you in advance for that .
Again… sorry for my bad and poor English.
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Title: Converting David Clark Headset Analog Output to USB

Hello everyone,

I have a David Clark (H9940) headset with the following pin configuration:
https://www.davidclarkcompany.com/files/partslists/pdf/PL19539P-95.pdf

  • RT ear
  • Ground
  • LT ear
  • Sens
  • Mic Hi
  • Mic Low
  • Shield
I want to convert the analog output of this headset to a USB connection. From my research, I understand that I need an ADC board like the Behringer U-Control UCA222 to accomplish this.

My plan is to wire the pins from the headset to RCA plugs that can connect to the UCA222. However, I'm looking for some guidance on the specifics:

  1. How should I wire the RT ear, LT ear, and ground to the RCA plugs?
  2. How do I handle the microphone signals (Mic Hi, Mic Low, and Shield) in this setup?
  3. Are there any additional components or considerations I should be aware of to ensure proper functionality?
Additionally, I know that the headset requires external voltage and impedance control for the microphone to function correctly. Could someone provide details on:

  1. The required voltage levels for the microphone input.
  2. How to implement impedance control in this configuration.
Any advice, wiring diagrams, or tips from those who have done a similar conversion would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance for your help!

Cathodyne tube line pre (cont'd)

Thanks to Schmitz77 for sparking my interest on the subject,

I am still fascinated by unusual tube circuit (read Shindo) I started collecting various tube configuration of EF86, EF80 circuit.

The first circuit comes from this thread posted by Schmitz77 :
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/cathodyne-tube-line-pre.355172/

I went a little further and made a ltspice sketch and sim

1720431115936.png


FYI this is only the line stage, I'll concentrate on the phono stage later.


The most valuable info came from Stereophile, as Mr Dudley wrote :

- "The C3m is also capable of very high gain, but Ken Shindo puts it to a different sort of use: In the Vosne-Romanee, the Siemens tube functions as a resistance-coupled phase inverter, the output of which appears across the anode and the cathode."

- "The now-balanced signals for the left and right channels are directed to that pair of vintage output transformers, with DC blocking along the way by those large, lovely, and similarly ancient Sprague oil caps."

- "We brought up the volume just to the point of clipping and noted an output of approximately 5.5V RMS (which translates to just under 8V peak, possibly explaining the output level spec provided for the V-R on the Shindo site)"


From a theoretical standpoint, the split phase phase inverter comes from this reference (chap 10, page 217)
1720431560183.png



Anyways, I'm thinking building this project in the future and I wanted to know if anyone can give me some pointers on what to look for next,

I did a simulation on the frequency response, and I don't think it looks right,

Have fun fellow DIYers!

Oli

(I can link the EF80 and C3m Ltspice data I used for my schematic)

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How expensive can an Econowave be?

This topic came up on another thread about the best 1” horn drivers. https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/best-1-compression-drivers-compact-1-horns-2024.410465/

Then marco_gea posted “The answer is still the same... the "best" is still probably: https://www.proaudiodesign.com/products/tad-td-2002

So at $3,000 a pop I was wondering how expensive can an ECONOwave be? Aside from custom shop work or one time productions, what are we looking at for cost is no object two way horn tweeter loudspeaker?

Clients changed their minds…now what?

IMG_2151.jpeg
So originally, they were going to keep the tower speakers shown to the left and right,……..but now they would like to eliminate them and integrate the mains into the enclosure. This is a modular built and the 70” screen is on an electronic lift that lowers into the cab when not used. For reference, the enclosure is 75” across and 34” tall. I REALLY don’t want to go back to square one with this and I’ve convinced them to add two thin line sources to the sides of the screen that will attach to the lift………but that creates a new set of challenges as I’ve only got 5.5 inches to work with on either side and 4” of depth!!!

I‘d like to scratch my own itch and do something OB/dipole…….there‘s nearly 8 ft of space behind there with a stairwell…….an OB would really make for an incredible soundstage…….but I’d need the OB to play down 60hz or so to blend with the subs. How am I gonna do that OB limited to 5 inch woofers?
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Pass DIY Front Panels

Dear All,

Can I make a petition to make available the following front panels from the DIYAudio store or modushop not only as part of a kit ? I made several projects with the 4U chassis and those will really give a wonderful look and give the right cretid to the designer.

https://modushop.biz/site/index.php...ct&search=passdiy&syclid=cqf3er4om04s73fng5o0

Regards,

D.

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Mark Audio Alpair 10.3 Bookshelf Reflex Monitor

Hello dear DIY Forum members!

As a new member, I would like to introduce myself. My name is Gerd and I live on the southern, outer green belt of Cologne, near the Rhine.

How I found the DIY Audio Forum – through reports/articles about Mark Audio speakers.

What have I planned? And that would almost answer the question of where a decision-making aid would not be bad:

I intend to build a reflex shelf speaker with a Mark Audio Alpair 10. 3 with the sonic orientation of a monitor speaker which displays clean 48 - 50 Hz.

Thanks for the tips!

Kind regards Gerd

For Sale UK Monacor DT99 pair

For sale pair of DT-99. Came in a pair of DIY speakers I bought off eBay and seem to be pretty much as new. Both measure same DCR.
Look like new . Not boxed but I will find a suitable box for them. Probably a tweeter box from SB or similar
£25 plus postage
Thanks

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For Sale UK SB23NACS45-8 pair

New in box never used. I seem to have been sat on these for a couple years but they might as well go. I have a few RS225s which are my chosen 8" now.

Postage on application, will be at cost. Come in original boxes and packaging.

Sell the pair for the price of 1 new.
£115 plus delivery .
Thanks

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For Sale SB Acoustics SB15NRXC30-8 pair

A pair of these for sale. Barely used. I went with MCA15 instead as needed purely mid range. One has OE box but for some reason I've misplaced the other. Has the original plastic guard to cover the cones. If I find the box obviously shall come in that.
I managed to nick the surround of one of them. Don't ask how. It is barely visible and if used as a midrange it wouldn't even open up . I put a small amount of PVA to heal it and it is nigh on invisible. Took me ages to find it to photograph. I'm confident it is of zero concern.
£60 plus postage

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For Sale SEAS 22TAF/G pair UK

Pair of tweeters for sale. Bought off a gentleman on here along with some Seas MCA15RCY.
Didn't use them in the end. They have been used and soldered previous to my ownership
Both measure 4.8r
£45 plus post.
Thanks

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NAD 2200 overheating transistor

This 2200 has been quite problematic. I have done my usual upgrades (www.quirkaudio.com), and in this case I have been chasing a set of problems on the left channel.
The current state is that all electro caps have been replaced all the transistors from Q201to Q333, and Q327, Q325 and Q331 have been replaced as have a number of diodes, including D309/D311 and D301/D303, so now the unit comes out of protection, however Q305 gets very hot meaning their is excessive current draw.

Q305 is now a KSC3503D, which I have used mnay times here.

On measuring R307 there is 0.7v across this resistor, whereas on the right channel on R310 it is 0v, and across R303 there is 0.29v, whereas on R304 it is 0v. On R377 there is 0v the same as R378, so my assumption is that the problem is not on the output side. All the main outputs test fine, Q311 had a low Hfe and was replaced with a new 1302.

When I measure across R331 I have 1.5v, whereas on R332 it is 0v. The two reference points at D309 and D311 should be +1.77v and -1.77v respectively, whereas they are 2.2v and -1.5v. The base of Q211 is 8.7v and all the other voltages on the circuit are correct.

I have attached the circuit and any thoughts are appreciated- this has me quite puzzled.


Peter

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Active 4-way with reaction cancelling woofers

In recent threads:

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...crossover-frequency-in-the-near-field.401809/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...er-w-pd-21-drivers.402264/page-5#post-7433034


there is some discussion of the benefits of side-firing woofers. So I thought I would describe a recently completed build of mine which employs this method of woofer mounting. I have borrowed ideas from past commercial loudspeakers such as the AR9, NHT 3.3, various vintage Allison Acoustics models.

These are the features of my build that are unusual from a typical commercial enclosure:

1. Separate isolated sub-woofer enclosure, with reaction cancelling drivers.

2. 2” edge round-overs for diffraction effects control.

3. Low sub-woofer position for enhanced room boundary bass re-inforcement.

4. Tri-laminate layer (mdf/mdf/hardboard) 1.25” panels for increased rigidity.

The drivers chosen are:
sub-woofer 8" SB23MFCL45-8 (x2 in parallel), mid-woofer 5” SB15CRC30-8, upper-mid 4” SB12MNRX2-4, tweeter SB26STAC-C000-4.
I have a great respect for SB Acoustics drivers. They have great build quality, good performance and are affordable. My previous builds have used ScanSpeak drivers, but ScanSpeak prices have increased beyond my comfort zone for DIY, and I find the SB range comparable in performance. The SB drivers are affordable and offer a wide range of cone materials in the same driver format so that they can be compared to decide on a preference.
The 4” SB12MNRX2-4 upper-mid is the only dedicated mid-range driver in the standard SB range, with shortened voice coil and linear travel compared to their 4” mid-woofers and is suitable for a 4-way, where it can be high-passed crossed over well above the bass frequencies.
The 5” SB15CRC30-8 mid-woofer was chosen after comparing listening tests with the Norex and aluminium cone versions. The cone material is a Rohacell/carbon fibre laminate.

The upper enclosure is a compact sealed 3-way, decoupled from a sealed sub-woofer enclosure by 50mm diameter Sorbothane hemispheres. The chosen dimensions keep the tweeter-floor height at 1m, which is right for my listening position.

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Learning by breaking things!

Hello, long-time lurker first time poster. I found this awesome forum while searching for pieces to fix a couple busted amps I picked up at a local garage sale. Well, they are busted now anyway! I'm using one as a plant stand and another as a platform to learn about solid state amps. I am enjoying the hobby so far. Currently stumped on something which I'll post about over in the solid-state forum. I'd like to get it working, since I already have a plant stand.

Best regards
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