A DIY Beginner's Journey

I began my DIY adventure about 1 year ago and thought it might be helpful to put together some suggestions for tools and other chachka to assist others getting started on their journey. It is worth mentioning that I have managed to spend $20 +/- on many items, wire, LEDs, screws, standoffs, crimp spades and the list goes on, so if you want to get into this you should anticipate additional expenses and time to get the stuff. I ordered some bevel head screws yesterday from Amazon, and they are waiting for me at home, Amazon Rocks!

Something that occurred to me last night, a very worthwhile purchase, perhaps a necessity, a Fire Extinguisher!!!!!

Just posted this further in, but it is worth repeating, It is a wise person who knows when to take a break! Along with this spending a minute or two to double check and then check it again can save hours of frustration!

The first thing is to have an organized work space and extra storage for various tools and supplies. Storage for supplies turned out to be a big one for me as I accumulated a lot in a relatively short time. If you are going to get serious about DIY there are many things that will make your projects look better and likely perform better. I generally find that it is better to pay a bit more to acquire quality tools that will function as expected and last. Having a notebook for projects can prove invaluable, having a place to notate, refer, and document can be a real time saver, and if for some reason you have to put your project on hold 😱 it's much easier to pick up from where you left off.

Tools:
1. A quality soldering station, my first one was a ToautoDS90 from Amazon, notice that the wand is held to the body by a plastic nut. Plastic nut, high heat 🤔, yes it comes apart frequently. I ended up replacing it with a Hakko FX888-D, much better!!

2. This is a good place to mention solder and Flux. Initially I started off with various Silver solders, Audioquest, Wonder Solder but switched over to Kester 24-6337-8800 50 . I have no way of telling if there are sonic advantages to Silver solder, but the Kester melts at a lower temp, flows nicely and is much easier when you need to de-solder. Speaking of which I like Vampire Tools Solder Sucker. While I started soldering without Flux I found that a judicious amount of Flux is quite helpful, both for soldering and de-soldering, this, MG 8341-10ML Flux Paste, 10 milliliters Pneumatic Dispenser, works very nicely, small amounts go a long way. To help clean the board I am using Chemtronics ES1696 Flux Remover 12 oz.. Another thing worth mentioning is temperature used for soldering, I would invite anyone w/ more experience to chime in, but I typically solder at 700F, although there are some applications that require more, ie. soldering speaker wire to binding posts, according to @ItsAllInMyHead, IIRC, 800F for this would be better. That being said, I was taught by the folks at Mark Levinson decades ago that the mechanical contact is most critical and solder basically seals the joint.

3. After additional reading/research it seems clear that crimping is preferable to solder, though if done correctly sealing the joint with solder can be beneficial. As in most things because a method is recommended and potentially superior it requires the correct tool to create good quality crimps. As mentioned in the Section, "Chachka AKA Stuff" there are various types of crimp connectors, insulated, non-insulated etc., and each type requires a different "jaw". Haisstronica 6PCS Crimping Tool Set, appears to be very nice, got 1 due tomorrow 😉. Regarding "sealing" a connection with solder, it is a :nownow: to tin wire prior to crimping as this not only mitigates the advantages of "fusing" your connector and wire, it can cause the premature failure, and no one likes that! Soldering to seal the joint does require some expertise as you don't want to wick solder into the wire.

4. When soldering it is often helpful to have a third set of hands, and this is where "Helping Hands" come in handy. There are many to choose from, but I prefer relatively cheap ones of this type, for much of the work I prefer Magnetic Adjustable Circuit Board Hold.

5. THIS is potentially less known but incredibly useful, Lead Bender, these will help get consistent, properly spaced bends in the legs of resistors etc., which not only adds to the aesthetics but likely the overall performance.

Lead Benders.jpg


6. A "Shear Cutter" Diagonal snipper, Xcelite 170M, is what I have had for decades.

71TCVWqvtCL._SL1500_.jpg

7. Obviously an assortment of screwdrivers and various bits, iFixit, is an outstanding driver set w/ a very nice aluminium 😉, handle and a nice assortment of bits.
Mr Fixit Drivers.jpg


8. Preciva Ferrule Crimp Kit, something that I was unaware of until @ItsAllInMyHead, thanks, suggested it! This is inexpensive, good quality and makes connecting wires to euro blocks more secure. What more could you ask for? It was recently pointed out to me that the ferrules come in 2 different shapes, thanks @vanofmonks, square and hexagonal. Apparently the square ones are designed for the euro blocks on my Aleph Jzm, but the hexagonal when tightened down flattens out and works beautifully.
Preciva Crimping Tool.jpg


More to come.

Something that I should have mentioned earlier, keeping your solder tip clean, a moist sponge is handy, will yield better conductivity and make your tips last longer.

9. A magnifying/lamp is very handy, but to inspect work it's hard to beat a pic from your phone.

10. A heat gun, Seekone Mini Heat Gun is reasonably priced, works well and takes up minimal space. Shrink tubing of various sizes not only enhances the look but can prevent accidental shorts. You will have a few options for shrink tube, 2:1, 3:1, w/ adhesive and without. My favorite for most use is non-adhesive 3:1, it's a bit harder to find but is nice if the price is reasonable, otherwise 2:1 works fine.

11. Clearly multi-meters are a must, and it is definitely worth while having 2, 4 is even better. When biasing your amp you will find it much easier to use 2 meters/channel to adjust both bias and DC offset without having to go back and forth. I recommend either getting a meter that includes plunger mini-hooks and banana ends or purchasing something like Micsoa Multi-meter Test Lead Kit.

12. A variac or DBT, Dim Bulb Tester, is definitely a good idea if you build any kits and especially so as the $$$ and power go up. I have been resisting getting a variac and have some older incandescent bulbs, new ones are available as "Appliance" bulbs. There are some posts re. DBTs including 1 that I just built, including diagrams.

13. Wire strippers are a necessity, I use Klein 1009, a quality tool that will last a lifetime. Take note that it is etched with "Stranded" and "Solid" which are different notches for the same gauge of solid or stranded wire. For finer gauge I have an old Greenlee that strips as fine as 26 gauge, the current version, 1917SS, is a bit pricey but looks nice.

Many of the projects include pretty much everything that 1 needs to complete a build, but having chachka on hand can make a build easier and more professional looking. Some have already been mentioned in Tools, so I'll skip them with the exception of a second mention of the Ferrule Crimp Kit, I just like that word, Ferrule hehehe!

Chachka AKA Stuff:

1. An assortment of both insulated and "sleeved" spade connectors, see Tnisesm, is worth having. It has appropriately sized female spades for just about any situation that you will run into. As a generalization I like to use Spades/Ferrules in power supply sections of my build, I mentioned earlier that I had been taught that mechanical connection first and use solder to seal the joint, perhaps someone w/ more experience might chime in on this?
Something like Mentbery 160 piece male/female spades, is a nice kit.

2. Having an assortment of metric fasteners can come in handy. My collection of metric screws, bolts, washers, nuts etc. has grown a bit, and while they come in little organizers I just ordered some "Crafts" organizers in an attempt to consolidate.

3. It is highly likely that there will be times when you will need additional wiring, based on suggestions by other forum members as well as reviews on Amazon, :radar:, I purchased 16 and 18 gauge silicone insulated wire from BNTECHGO, also, Xinwang 22 Gauge Silicone Wire..

4. Having a Dymo Label Printer can come in handy, especially coupled w/ Heat Shrink Tube Labels.

After using Haisstronica crimper for a while, I am very happy with the quality and results. Love products that meet or exceed expectations, hence my 😍for this site!

Technics SE-9021 DC on speaker output

Hello everyone,
First post here, hopefully someone can help me out diagnosing this SE-9021. The problem I'm having is an intermittent thump and crackling from the right channel. The problem sometimes goes away for a few hours but always comes back. All caps have been replaced prior and after being unable to bias the DC offset correctly, I started meausuring DC voltages across the board. All seem to be well except for the base of TR118, after each DC spike on the speaker terminals, here the voltage drops to +- 0.5V and lower. I'm also getting spikes on testpoint 104 and 106, which seems logical giving the circumstances. The problem seems to happen most in low cut mode instead of DC (not even sure what this means). My best guess would be a bad coupling cap or a transistor going bad but because all the cap's have been replaced, probably the second? I'm pretty new to hifi repair so any tips and tricks are welcome!
Thanks for the help!
Jesse.

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Graaf GM20 mods - help!

Evening all - I'm afraid I'm a newbie...

I have a pair of Graafs GM20's (schematic via link) but the constant tweeking of bias and offset is driving me mad!

https://cid-a332bc3aefc89f6b.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/GM20 schematic.pdf

Is there a way of adding an auto bias circuit?

Also, can anyone suggest any tweeks / improvements? I've scoured the net but nothing forthcoming.

Ahh, can I reduce the gain / adapt the present circuit to suit a higher input voltage without using a pot and thus destroying the dynamics? I'm using a Weiss Medea DAC with +27dBu via XLR's....

Thanks guys 🙂

Easy way to get audio from Windows into a separate Ubuntu PC running CamillaDSP

For years I have been using Foobar2000 on Windows 10/11 into Cantabile. This host several VSTs, to work as a 4 way crossover / DSP.
The audio then goes over USB into my 8 channel DAC, followed by nice hypex modules to drive my DIY speakers and 2 subs.
I love Foobar2000 and use Windows for my work, so I would like to have this stay my primary PC, and the way to play audio.

But I would like to offload this audo processing to a separate laptop running CamillaDSP on Ununtu or Debian. To try, for fun, to tincker.
No problem, I figured.

But then I got stuck: how do I get the audio from the windows PC into the CamillaDSP laptop?
The laptop does not have a digital audio input. Does anyone know of a software solution? Eg to run the audio over ethernet somehow.

Of course there is Dante. The AudioOverIP stuff seems much too complicated and expensive for my use case.
I also came across SonoBus, which is available for windows and Linux. It is open source, which I like, but is looks more geared towards multi-user cases and don't know if it will connect to CamillaDSP (I'm a complete Linux-noob).

But there must be a simple (and cheaper!) solution I'm overlooking?
Your ideas would be appreciated!

Btw: does Ubuntu natively support a USB XMOS UAC2 DAC? Or does it need drivers?

Virtual machine to play Tidal and audio files, Windows OS or ... ?

I am installing my home cloud and media server.
The system is based on an Intel i5-12400 CPU with 32GB of ram, and is running Proxmox as supervisor.
My goal is to install a virtual machine to which to passthrogh an entire USB channel for the SMSL M400 DAC, and play audio from TIDAL or from a music player.
Since TIDAL is moving all MQA to FLAC, I may don't need the Windows tidal app/player anymore.
In fact, I want to play hi-res FLAC files and DSD files as bitperfect as possible, and TIDAL gapless. What are your suggestion for the operating system and software to install?

Bose Companion 3 Series II hiss

Hello everyone,

Need some advice on a Bose companion 3. This weekend I've sort of finished a repair of a Bose companion 3 Series II (2.1 speaker) system. The set is from a friend of ours and hadn't been used for a while. It sat in the attic doing nothing but collecting moisture (and fungi 😏). So the thing was in a terrible state with lots of noise when switching on (if it even wanted to). So took it apart and started replacing all SMD electrolytic caps because some of them looked leaky. Found out that lots of them were actually leaking and / or in a bad shape anyway. Especially the 10uF ones were bad and needed to be replaced.

So after going through all of that it is now working again. But the amount of static / hiss this thing produces is beyond what I find acceptable. However, it might just be poor design. Since I've never had a BOSE on my bench, is it normal that this thing is so noisy? I wouldn't mind digging in a bit deeper but now feels like I'm chasing red herrings.

So far I did find the full service manuals, bulletins and schematics (although being the wrong revision of the board). It has a peculiar power supply and a tiny voltage regulator for all op-amps and bias voltages. My guess is that noise in the power supply would easily get into the amp and out the speakers (the hiss is present in all channels).

Transitional Miller Compensation (TMC) vs. Two Pole Compensation (TPC)

Once again, wanted to find these posts and threads by a title search rather than digging for them.
EDIT: This thread was intended to make it easier to find posts on the subject but I'm having to fix the links again.
This time I'm providing the post # so that if the links break again one can search by post #.
I searched on Megajocke's posts and found that his analysis is now on page 61, half of the last link to page 122,
so perhaps posts per page have doubled.

TMC is a derivative/improvement on Cherry's Miller inclusive compensation (or Miller output inclusive) that was first described and tested by Peter Baxandall and refined and promoted by Edmund Stuart on here. Baxandall did not publish his work, rather his wife, after his death, forwarded his notes on Douglas Self's book to him and they included the yet unnamed concept of TMC. Self has posted the TMC part of those notes here: EDIT site no longer works so I have attached the pages below to this post.
And they are published in full in Linear Audio's "Baxandall and Self on Audio Power". The book is a collection of previously published papers by Baxandall and Self with his notes to Self at the end. Cherry's Miller inclusive compensation was used in very early OP amps of the 1970s and it is reported to work less well in power amps where the output stage significantly slows down in saturation. Post by Edmund Stuart on Cherry's work, POST #854 for future reference: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...er-amplifier-book.171159/page-43#post-2390542

TMC acts as Miller inclusive at audio frequencies but transitions to normal Miller compensation at HF where stability is important providing the best of both worlds.

Much of the detailed analysis and even the naming/promotion of TMC by Edmund Stuart happened on this forum and I wanted to use this thread to collect some of the better links.

Controversy started over TMC when some (michaelkiwanuka) claimed that TMC and TPC were essentially the same thing. I at first did not believe this, BUT some of our best people here jcx, megajocke and others backed up the claim. Megajocke's analysis here has convinced me with regard to small signal analysis but I believe that there are potential differences when the output stage saturates and the parameters change. Here is Megajocke's excellent analysis, POST #1220 for future reference: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...er-amplifier-book.171159/page-61#post-2414320

Several argued that TMC was first order compensation as is normal Miller Comp but Megajocke pointed out that that was with regard to the global loop and that if one probes inside the local TMC loop there are other stability issues to consider. jcx argues that it is mostly not a first order system: EDIT POST #1100: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...er-amplifier-book.171159/page-55#post-2406839

Another good post by megajocke with a response from Bob: POST #1239: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...er-amplifier-book.171159/page-62#post-2415553

One of megajocke's simulations: POST #1163: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...er-amplifier-book.171159/page-59#post-2411182
AND POST #1252: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...er-amplifier-book.171159/page-63#post-2415855

Simulation from Bob showing that it is possible to choose compensation values in TPC to get the same distortion performance as TMC, he uses a simple Blameless topology for the example: POST #1184 WITH .asc FILES: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...er-amplifier-book.171159/page-60#post-2413197

POST #1027: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...er-amplifier-book.171159/page-52#post-2402170

Post by Bob of his MOSFET amp with the EC removed and TMC added, he mentions the excellent distortion results. On closer inspection this is actually a MIC/TMC hybrid, very interesting, also note the driven cascode: LINK FIXED, NOTE THAT IT IS POST #1602:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...er-amplifier-book.171159/page-81#post-2537043

Post by Bob with simulation of Bridged-T TMC POST #1339 for future reference:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...er-amplifier-book.171159/page-67#post-2421505

Wish I had time to read the entire thread and carefully link all of the best posts and simulations but there is just not enough time in the day - this is a start.

I'm inclined to use TMC, perhaps with gentle lead compensation in a new design but it is important to observe the changes in stability when the output saturates and with capacitive loads. I'd want to see if TPC is better stability wise when tuned for similar distortion. I was firmly in the TMC camp but megajocke's and jcx's posts have made it clear that they are similar but my opinion is perhaps not from a large signal perspective.

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Jungson JA-88D crackling and static fixed!

No requests or debates, just wanted to share a success:

Over the last year, my Jungson integrated started creating some crackle and noise from the left channel.

Checking the output, measured a dc offset of >200mV, and fluctuating about 50% higher sometimes. It did settle a bit after warning up, but never completely went away.

Found this site with some info on mods and schematics:

JungSonJA88D-09

And located the trim pots top zero the positive and negative offset.

Now the amp is dead quiet! I think one of the protection circuits may have been fighting the output to try and reduce the offset.

Hopefully this may help someone in the future.

DIY vs Pro stock?

For extracting main and sub channels from stereo signal. Is it better to DIY long term stable results or live with the compromise of fewer options by buying a commercial unit from a pro brand?

Let's leave DSP out of this. There are times when one wants hands on knob per function and quick visual reference

What are the important bits? Online searches mostly show analog audio processors from the car scene. There is one generic design that seems to be offered under many brands. The link below shows one. This has variable knobs for frequency but slopes are missing as well as the very important subsonic with a variable knob. This exact design appears at different prices between the brands too. Like AU $100 for Boss and $200 for more well regarded brand

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1855986...2256156830&itmmeta=01J4X32P6Z0Z7HVMBBT1KC6DQ2

While this one from pro brand PRV has no slopes and uses limited selection of frequencies with the step slider. It has the important subsonic filter but still with the stepped slider

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1337731...9049227912&itmmeta=01J4VNT95QA9T91DVTXR2A47MR

And this pro mobile unit from DS18 has to be used on the subs and another on the mains and still doesnt have slopes selection

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1859863...0058991206&itmmeta=01J4X32P5ZMEK8FZCD8AT6DXC3

The generic design is only missing the subsonic filter and slopes. Can something like this be DIY'ed and exceed durability and signal performance? Is there a proven DIY design that can be built in a solid and mini console format with dedictated knobs per function and superior sound?

Fortè 1A problem - whistle

Hi,
I am an happy Fortè 1A owner from Italy 🇮🇹.

A little bit of my personal history: my dad owns a Threshold T50 for 30 years and I aways loved that kind sound, that warmness and that soundstage. I listened that amp since I was born with a pair of Strateg Cyan, an old school handcrafted bookshelf speakers with a 16cm Seas P17 woofer and a 25mm focal t121 tweeter, all in Mogano, assembled by interlocking so without using adhesives and without any sound-absorbing material inside and produced by a local brand - STRATEG by Lorenzo Corsi - that was active until some years ago - https://www.tnt-audio.com/tours/strateg.html). So after discovered that Nelson Pass was behind not only the Threshold but also the Fortè Audio, some year ago I found a used Fortè 1A that, if I understood well, is a project similar to the Threshold T50.

From that moment I’m in love with that amp and even if I try different speakers it’s always pure magic (now I use the Forte 1A with a pair of Martin Logan Motion 20i and I’m really really happy, that folded motion tweeter with this amp ... 😍).

But a month ago appeared a problem: a channel, the left one, started to emit a sound like a whistle, someday not so high, someday higher.

I tried to disconnect the input but the whistle remains.

I also tried to buy a filtered power socket but the whistle is always there.

At the end I tried to open the top cover to blow a little air but nothing changed.

I read here a post of some years ago that talks about the bias and to try to adjust it slowly but I’m a noob.

Someone have any idea about this problem? Who knows a trusted repair service here in Rome or in Italy?

If someone can give me some advice I can give it to a local repair that I know. My concern is about the possibility of changing some components that could modify the amazing sound of this amp.

Thanks in advance.

UNFIXABLE power supply!!?

Hi, i'm a hobbyst that remained stranded after my lab bench power supply died.


Here is what happened in details:

Power supply specifications:
220 - 240VAC input, 30V 10A MAX output.

Current and voltage can both be regulated from 0 to MAX. One day, i was using the power supply when it suddendly stopped working and its fuse was blown. (Fast 3.15A 250V).

So... Let's replace it and see if it works again. Plugged it in... Fuse blew again. So i opened the power supply to access the board, and found out that BOTH MOSFETs in the half bridge and the double diode were COMPLETELY shorted. Every pin to every pin.

So... Let's replace them, it will surely work again... And i replaced them with EVEN BETTER components (thats what i have for now). The mosfets were 500V 9A with 1+ ohm RDS(on).

I substituted them with 400V 24A 0.24 ohm RDS(on) mosfets. The double diode was 200v 20A and i substituted it with a whopping 60A 200V double diode (of course it is a shottky one).

This will also make the power supply slightly more efficent and heating will be reduced. New components and fuse set up.

Plugged it in, and it turned on! But... That was short lived. I tested it under load at 12V with a 12V 60W incandescent Light bulb. It worked. But after i rose the voltage a but more it broke again and the fuse blew.

Opened it up... EVERYTHING SHORTED AGAIN. Even the 60A double diode... Completely shorted. Frustrated, i changed the components again (same components as before) and then tested the power supply differently. I bypassed the fuse and i connected the power supply to a pure sine wave inverter with a soft start function and a series 100W incandescent light bulb to prevent catastrophic failure. The power supply turned on and i set the current to maximum and the voltage to 12V.

Then i started to short the output multiple times. Nothing bad happened. The voltage what set to 12V though. Then i set the voltage to 15V and after shorting / loading the output few times, it broke again and the light bulb went full brightness. This time thanks to the light bulb the two MOSFETs were saved, but one half of the double diode still shorted.

When the power supply was functional, i could short the output even with the voltage set to 30V and the current to maximum without any problems.

In 7 years NEVER a single problem. It always worked. So the question here is... WHERE LIES THE PROBLEM?

Does the main transformer have shorted turns? Some defective control IC? I tested all the rest of semiconductors in the board and they are not shorted / open circuit.

I would really appreciate it if you could help me resolve this problem. Without the power supply i cant do anything...

Here is a photo of the board in case you need it. I also measured the inductor and it seems fine (92uH).

The blue transformer is the main one, the green one is the gate driving transformer and the red one is used in a small secondary power supply to power the control electronics and display.

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F5 diyAudio Amp

-SOLD-

Thinning out the number of amps I have. I built each of the amps for sale for personal use and am selling for below cost of construction.

Basic details: Deluxe 4U chassis. Antek AN-6218 transformer, Toshiba JFETS. Takman metal film resistors, Mills power resistors, Vishay TX2575 signal path resistors, Mundorf PS capacitors, Cardas and Kimber wiring, EAR Isolation feet. Functions perfectly. Will be carefully packaged for shipping.

$600 incls. shipping within Continental US. Payment via Paypal.

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Kicker query

Locally a feller has an 18" old-school Kicker subwoofer. I've never seen one and this was apparently a spur of the moment purchase by him years ago.
I've been offered a listen but it's a long drive and before I'm tempted to make "A reasonable offer" I wonder if anybody here has ever come across one.
Only detail he has given me is that the recommended box size is 4.5 cubic feet

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1bit DSD bitstream mix possible? Yes!

I just made program to demonstrate mixing two 1bit dsd64 bitstreams without any conversion to multibit or anything else, this is fully lossy free format, this makes mix in pure 1bit dsd. The only frequency is changed to x2 because we have two bitstreams so mix file will become dsd128 but this will not change purity of your dsd64 tracks since two bitstreams on dsd128 will have two dsd64 bit flows, so two tracks is unchanged. I'm a bit hardcoded things here and you will need to rename your two DsDiff files to dothat.dff and traore.dff, it must be in DSD64 in DFF format. Double click .exe and after 10-20 secconds tracks will become mixed out in new file caled mix.dff and thats your mixed 1bit dsd128 track. Let me know your opinion.

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Speed tests on my Maxon DC motor

Hi all. I bought a RE max motor from maxon last year and have now got it running on a test rig I put together. The motor will be going in my LP 12 in due course and the rig is being used to develop the drive circuit, control parameters and to check all is well with the motor. In the rig the motor runs super slow with a drive ratio around 10x. There is no noise or vibration evident from the motor, which is good. The drive circuit is on a breadboard arduino controlled driving a voltage dac which provides 0 to 4 volts with a resolution around 20 bit so there is amble resolution to control the motor. Previous experience I have is that closed loop feedback is needed and negative terminal resistance, to both keep the speed accurate and to deal with stylus drag. Testing on this motor confirms the same. I have tested open and closed loop with and without negative resistance. The graphs show the effect on speed stability for these configurations. Note the drift in open loop is just over 1000 revs starting it off on point, so could degrade further thereafter.

The best accuracy is around plus / minus 0.01% at 33rpm. How does this compare to other motor types?

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TEAC amp intermittent sound loss - what is wrong?

Dear all
My old(ish) TEAC A-H500i looses sound intermittently in both channels (at the same time).
First I was thinking speaker relays, but that I guess would be channel specific - or?
Then I saw this little fella, seemingly with a leak (or is it just glue?) According to the schematic it is on the “sub power supply pcb”.
I am not an expert and does not know what it does - anyone can help? Could this be it?
It is the one in the pictures - and link to service manual below.
If not it - what typically causes intermittent sound loss in both channels simultaneously? It is not a matter of speaker volume.
Thank you all 🙌🏻
https://audiocircuit.dk/downloads/teac/Teac-AH500-int-sm.pdf

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Rectifier Diode Replacement

Been a while since I've been here, just looking for a bit of verification on my current problem. I have an Auna Concept 620 which has been acting up lately, a lot of noise on the channels at times, audio just not coming out at random, other times audio being extremely quiet even with the sub volume at maximum, that kind of thing. I'm fairly certain the problem is with the 1N5404 rectifiers and considering they are on the edge am wondering if I should replace them with some 1N5408s to handle things better or if anyone could suggest something else? My only focus is with building something that is extremely robust - specs mean nothing to me if I won't have an audible difference.

Years ago I did some major recapping work on the sub where the primary capacitors blew out (I wasn't surprised to see this when I saw how severely under spec they were) so those got replaced with 2x 25v 125c RS brand capacitors and all other caps were replaced with Rubycon and Nippon Chemi-Con 105c so I know all of those caps are good but to be sure I did also inspect them, no leaking or bulging I can see. Any extra input is appreciated, I've attached a few images of the patient.

EDIT: On another note why is it the text size is appearing like it is set to extra large on the forum and it won't change when I select other sizes?

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For Sale Tamura A-4714

Selling 1x pair of Tamura A-4714 line out transformers, in excellent condition

Prim: 5K 60ma
Sec: 600 (300 split) / 6 ohm

Interesting transformer that can be used as a line output transformer or as a regular output transformer to drive a speaker or both!

SOLD

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For Sale Altec 806a drivers - pair

parting with this pair of Altec 806a 16 ohm drivers. They sound great and are solid all around. Pulled from 9844 monitors. Diaphragms are replacements from Midwest Speaker. DCR measures 11.1 for one, 11.0 for the other.

SOLD

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FreeCAD tips and hacks for cab design

Things that we find in the program that can save some head scratching, Please allow me to start with these three for sheet material:

1. Start your drawing away from the axis central dot and, for even more flexibility at a future stage of development, away from the axis lines as well. Use the distance constraint set to 0mm to bring it to the axis once the panel is drawn. This allows placing a fillet on the corner that will be on the axis centre as well as future movement of the panel

2. Make the first base panel larger than needed. You can always bring the excess in without FreeCAD getting its panties in a twist. But adding on later to increase the area will create new lines in the model, and this will set a limit for fillets in that area, plus too many other reasons to recount here

3. Let's say the material is 16mm or 32mm, and you are trying to set a 16 or 32mm radius on the edge. FreeCAD will throw a hussy fit. You can do 15.99 to get close, or 31.99mm. 15.9 or 31.75 is better as you can find that router bit at a good price of Ali or eBay

4. Drawing in sheet material is best left to a tested design. For prototyping, it is more efficient to create a base body and carve cavities into that. These will represent air volumes, ports and such. The drawing is done in a reverse outline, where you draw the profile of the cavities on a side panel. Then carve that out, and you will be left with a sold set of walls sans the sides. These are added on after finishing the interior work. It is very possible to do the whole inverse outline as one sketch only, which again is perfect for prototyping as all the objects are continued within one sketch and changes on the fly do not cause FreeCAD any upset. Once the model is complete. Panels sizes can be just pulled off with some simple calcs and redrawn into a new file as a mature panel design. This is quicker than having to delete a lot of objects to go back to make a simple change. Prototyping a 3D model in this manner leaves the most options open for changes further on
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Extreme 1543 DAC

So I was searching for some transformers and I stumbled across an Extreme 1543 DAC Kit from diyhifi.net. It looks like I purchased it in 2008 and also bought the upgrade to 8X 1543. I found the PCB populated and I don't think I ever finished the assembly. I can post some pics of it tomorrow. Here's the schematic of the PCB

Is there a way I can feed this an I2S signal?

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Workbench sub

Guys, help me choose a good workbench sub. One that can be used to test out different ideas and things. Interested in operating range down to low 30s and one that doesn't require a huge box and fits on my CNC

A high performance 8" would be perfect. Something that is well sorted and fairly well known. Also, something that suits BR and TL cabs

I have been looking at this one as a candidate for a bench sub. Any other promising 8s?
https://www.wagneronline.com.au/sb-...dio-speakers-pa/sb23mfcl45-4-64590/976215/pd/
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Looking for a pair of waveguides: QSC PL-000446GP or B-52 PHRN-1014 or PRV Audio WG35-25-B

I'm looking for a pair of waveguides of the following types:

QSC PL-000446GP (horn of QSC HPR152 loudspeakers)
PRV Audio WG35-25-B
B52 PHRN-1014

These waveguides are the ones that were used in Econowave Deluxe from Zilch. The PRV and B52 clones were available in the past at Parts Express, but not anymore and the original QSC not anymore available as spare parts by QSC.

Preferably from the Europa Union (I'm located in France). Please make offer including shipment to EU.
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Re-center spiders in Ohm F: using DC voltage

In an effort to stiffen the spiders to a new, correct position on my Ohm F's, I'm thinking of applying DC voltage to each driver to move the spider into position and then apply ingerdients to re-stiffen them. This may be for a few days.

I see 1.8V, 0.31A is required to do this.

Is it fine to leave DC voltage to the voice coil for an extended period?

NEC AUA-8300E any good?

I was able to get from Canada a NEC AUA-8300E integrated amp and Nec 8300 tuner.
Both pieces were never sold in the USA. The tuner and the amp are located with my tech for a recap, I know the tuner is a good performer, but I dont know anything about the Nec 8300 amp. So I am on the fence about spending any money on it.
What do you guys make of the integrated amp ? Any good ?
Can someone review the schematic and see what is inside ?



NEC AUA-8300E Stereo Integrated Amplifier Manual | HiFi Engine

some pics from the web

417711-35b6c4da-nec_aua8300e_amplifier__aut8300_tuner.jpg



An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Can't figure out how to read this impedance graph

Silver Flute W17RC38-04
I have never seen an impendence graph like this.
How do I read this? I am trying to trace it to see if its a viable choice for a build I am considering. Basically a budget 2 way build I could give away to friends.
How does the "V" translate to ohms?​

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HiVi RT2C-A for sale

Too many speakers already (not as many as Cal 🙂). I do not plan to use these right now, so instead of sitting on shelf collecting dust, someone can use them. The are lightly used, in great shape, just some residual glue on edge or back. Make offer, pay shipping in us (~$19).

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Greetings from atherton

Hi all am mick from atherton nr manchester uk
Am 57 currently having time off work
I live wi mi gf deb and her 2 sprogs
Av geet a Frenchy biggest av evr seen called buster
Av been into audio stuff for last few year
Been stalking these forums for a while gathering info here and there so thought better join av geet 27 technics separates a few pioneer and a few sony just restored a sony str 11l
Currently trying sort a str 7025 out
And lookin for a service manual
Looking forward to joining in the discussion
Thanks for reading
Mick

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Analog xo, LP only, stereo in > 3 outputs or more?

If known, please suggest any DIY or plug'n play. For a 4-subwoofer distributed array. Already familiar with the Ashly digital.

Analog subwoofer active xo, requires only low-pass

Inputs:
Prefer balanced XLR, not a deal breaker
2-input (stereo), sum to mono

Each output:
3 outputs minimum, prefer 4
Prefer XLR balanced, not a deal breaker
Continuous phase 0-180 mandatory
Selectable pole, require only 70 Hz minimum up to at least 140 Hz (prefer 200 Hz)
Parametric EQ nice, not mandatory
Prefer selectable 12/24 dB, maybe 12 dB OK

Looking at building an easy to build Distortion Analyser adaptor for my Oscilloscopes.

Hi everyone,
I'm planning on building a Distortion Analyser adaptor for my two Oscilloscopes, using a design from an article I found online, the circuit of the Distortion Analyser looks relatively easy to build, and uses fairly common NPN bipolar junction transistors, should be a fun and useful test gear build project, I'll post a pic of the schematic later on.

Are these genuine Audison?

HI
I saw these Audison's mid-bass drivers couple of days ago for a very reasonable price but I couldn't find anything online about them.
I wondered if these are genuine Audisons or if they are fakes
If anyone has came across these and knows anything about them, I appreciate the help.
Thanks

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Acrosound TO-310 Schematic Bypass Cap Values?

OK just to clarify, I want to build this amp using some vintage Acrosound TO-310 transformers I picked up and want to use their vintage published schematic. I'm not asking for a review of the overall design or suggestions on changing to another "better" topography. And while I feel I have a good understand of single ended amps, I'm just starting to understand and work with push pull stuff. These bypass cap values don't make sense to me.

So again, I'm simply trying to understand their suggested bypass caps. They have a 1K resistor being bypassed with a 250uf cap which is good to 6.4hz, I get that one. But then on the output tubes, they have a 250R being bypassed by a 100uf, which is only down to 64hz. I am clearly missing something here, as that doesn't make any sense to me.

This design was used by many people and tested well with this iron, so I don't think there is a problem with the design, just my understanding of it. TIA

6V6-acrosound.png


acro-310-test.png
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Thoughts about egg carton type surfaces

I know that egg cartons themselves don't do much: but I was unpacking some IKEA furniture this week and I'm wondering if these or something like these could be used as a diffuser panel by gluing several of these to a sheet of stiff cardboard using PVA glue and if they would work to any degree?
I'm not sure that SWMBO would actually allow me to screw such panels to the ceiling.
Could they qualify as "Art" if I got the grandkids to paint them in bright colours and hung them on the walls?
PVA and sample pots of paint are relatively cheap
Usable or just a dumb thought and I need to chuck them in the compost?

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Simple battery current probe

Have you ever wanted to measure the current consumption of a battery powered device, but found that you need two hands to hold wires against the battery, and your other two hands to hold wires against the battery contacts, leaving you with not ernough hands free to operate the device itself? Here's a way to reduce the required number of hands.

The probe itself is made from FR-4 double-sided copper clad board, nominally 0.2mm thick (actually 0.25mm including the copper layers). At that thickness it's easily cut with scissors, and very flexible. This stuff is cheap, but not widely available. I found some on Ali Express.

After cutting it into a long shape narrow enough to fit against a battery contact, I carefully sanded the edges to make sure no copper bridged the two sides. I soldered a wire to each side of the board, making sure not to bridge the two sides with solder, and attached a 4mm banana socket to the other end of the wires, for connection to a multimeter or oscilloscope. Here's what the completed probe looks like:

DSC_0851.jpg

And a closeup of the tip, where you can just about see the individual layers of glass and copper:

DSC_0853.jpg

It's so thin that it can be slipped between a battery and a contact, diverting the current through the wires instead. Here it is inserted into the back of a DE-5000:

DSC_0858.jpg

DSC_0856.jpg

And finally a shot of using it with a multimeter to measure the actual current consumption of the DE-5000:

DSC_0859.jpg

If you're curious, the DE-5000 uses 20mA when measuring a capacitor (as shown in the photo), 16mA when idle, and a mere 2µA when off.

  • Poll Poll
What is your headphone out jack size preference

What is your headphone out jack preference 1/4" or 1/8" or 2.5mm

  • 1/4" (6.35mm)

    Votes: 27 87.1%
  • 1/8" (3.5mm)

    Votes: 4 12.9%
  • 2.5mm

    Votes: 0 0.0%

I've always defaulted to making the output jack on my headphone amp builds 1/4" and suddenly wondered whether there is a genuine reason to use up so much real estate when a 3.5mm would do the same job.

So as a headphone user, what size output jack do you prefer, and why?

Updated Pass A40 Design

I've been having a look at Nelson Pass's A40 Class A design, that originally appeared in Audio magazine in the late 70's. I have done an update of the design that eliminates the tantalum capacitors and the need for the unobtainium Llambda power Darlingtons originally used in the design. This comes at the expense of discrete Darlingtons, but the ability to choose zippy updated bipolar driver and output devices, as well as being able to optimize the driver termination resistors may make up for the added complexity. All the parts should be available from the usual suspects. I'll post a prelim schematic when things quiet down for me a bit (3-5 other projects in the works). Of course I'm posting with the full realization that this is not strictly a Pass design any more, as so many aspects of the design have been changed.
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Eurotrip/parts search

Hello friends, I am starting a trip through some cities in Europe and I wanted to know if any of you know about electronics sales businesses for our DIY hobby, such as selling capacitors and resistors, even valves, etc. The cities that I am going to visit are Valencia, Madrid, Dublin, London and Edinburgh, any information is appreciated. In my country some spare parts/valves are quite difficult to find, and if they are available, sometimes it is at exaggerated prices. That's why I wanted to take this travel opportunity to take some things home. thank you very much friends

I have two Audioline 15W powered studio monitors, one needs servicing, need schematics for them.

Hi everyone,
I have a pair of Audioline 15W powered studio monitors, one of them needs servicing to fix intermittent distortion, I was wondering where I could find schematics for them online? they have internally mounted solid-state amplifiers in them, I'll see if I can post the model number later on today.

G.E. BA-5A audio delay line LTspice and other info

I happened to see the General Electric BA-5A limiting amplifier and that it uses an analog delay line to get the control voltage ahead of the signal, so nothing above a set level can get through. Reading the material on the web and in a book here, I started playing with LTspice to come up with the delay line using the same capacitance and induxtance, and tweak it for flat frequency response and also determine the time delay at various frequencies. It's by no means a complete treatment but there are three transformerless models and two with transformers. The transformers are not well-modeled, but I hope it will be of interest. Note that the book mentioned has just about the full theory section from the manual for the instrument as well as a great schematic. references are included in the document attached.

Because I prefer tube and other analog gear, and note that just about all compressors and limitiers have a finite attack time that can allow some excessive peaks through, this one is very interesting. I'm probably wrong about a lot of this stuff and just trying to understand it.

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Maybe a better way to cascade Linkwitz-Riley filters...

Been pondering IIR crossovers some more...always dangerous for me, being the die hard linear-phase xover dude I am...lol

Many are no doubt familiar with Linkwitz's cascading strategy found at https://www.linkwitzlab.com/frontiers_5.htm#V
First from that link, it's shown how a parallel 4-channel topology has its issues, and that cascacading is a definite improvement.

1723226901113.png




Then next, the bold text in the snip below describes adding an all-pass to the SW (sub) channel based on the W channels low-pass frequency,
improves response further.


1723224195493.png



I think there is a better way, and not much harder to implement, ......particularly if you have an open-architecture processor than lets you place filters in series as needed.

Cascading high passes is retained....but the recommended SW all-pass gets dropped,
in exchange for putting all the low-passes used in higher channels, in series after a channel's principal low pass..

So for example, using the W channel which has a principal low pass at 200Hz. It gains a second low-pass in series at 2000Hz (The M channel principal low-pass).



1723225076607.png



With the above flow put into a processor, here's the measured T+M+W+SW summation.

1723225853697.png


So zero ripple.
With no level adjustments, delays, or all-pass, on any channels.

Maybe there's holes in this.....i dunno..
again, i'm NOT an IIR man 😛

I figure the ripple free results can most likely be achieved through the use of more all-pass filters in series on the channels, akin to the low pass strategy I used.
But I'm like why bother with that?
When the low-pass strategy is so straightforward and simple....

Folks who do know IIR... please correct any/all of this if I'm barking up a tree (again LOL) ...thx, mark

Lase LF18-3600

Is anyone using these drivers? I have 4 loaded into 176l 30hz tuned reflex cabs.
The measured response is poor with a huge peak at 65hz and low output below 45hz but I believe the dsp in the plate amps I am using is the issue, once I get a proper amp I’ll measure them again.

Product Specifications:
  • Nominal Diameter: 18"
  • Power Handling (RMS): 1800 Watts
  • Power Handling (max): 3000 Watts
  • Impedance: 8 ohms
  • Frequency Response: 30Hz to 1,000 KHz
  • Sensitivity: 97.5 dB 2.83V/1m
  • Xmax : 13.5mm
  • Voice Coil Diameter: 4.5"
Thiele&Small Parameter:
  • FS: 41 HZ
  • Re: 5.5 ohm
  • Qms: 9.7
  • Qes: 0.41
  • Qts: 0.37
  • Mms: 247.4G
  • BL: 29.3T-M
  • Sd: 1216 cm2
  • Vas: 124.4 L
  • Weight : 42.2 Lbs(19.14Kgms)
  • Shipping Dimensions : 20.5" x 20.5" x 17.5"(533.4mm x 533.4mm x 457.2mm)

Soldering Iron Bit Problem

Just looking to see if anyone has had similar problems to me and if there are any experts that can offer advice. I’m using .5 mm Weller solder and a Weller WE1010 iron with a 1mm needle point bit.

The problem is my bit keeps losing its wetting and it oxidises and then will not solder properly. I’ve tried it at 350C temp and then 395C but it is still problematic. Any ideas? Thanks

IMG_0026.jpeg

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ADAM A7 Service Manual (including schematics) needed

Hi,

Have a fault with one of my Adam A7 monitors. Upon a visual inspection of the PCBs I have discovered a burnout component which I would like to verify. It's a small flat orange circular component which I think maybe a capacitor.

I would also like to get to the bottom of what has caused the component to "fry".

The PCB I am referring to is the right hand one mounted vertically as pictured (with white connector).

Any advice or tips people?

Thanks

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Alpine 7269 schematic

Hello I was wondering if anyone has a schematic for a Alpine 7269 cassette deck . This is a deck that I've been using in my 83 jeep CJ for years and it finally packed it in . I would just replace it with a newer deck but that would require cutting the dash and I want to keep the stock retro look and function. Turns out these early made in Japan Alpines are starting to become more valuable so figured I would see If I can salvage this one . thanks for any assistance Roger

Greetings

Greetings 🙂.

I'm new to building speakers and associated electronics. Just last Friday I fired up an Econowave I researched and built (inner damping and outer finish still to do) with assistance during wood sawing, routing and drilling from a friend. I am now in the process of putting together an amplifier.

Where to place high-pass filters?

Hi. This is probably a dumb question, but I'm cobbling together a pair of presence speakers using existing drivers and parts I have lying around.
I want them to operate only from 500Hz up, and I want to cross from the midrange to the tweeter at 2kHz.
I have a pair of existing existing 500Hz and 2kHz high-pass filters already built up from a different project few years ago, so should I take the 2kHz filter feed to the tweeters directly from the amp's full-range output, or daisy-chain it off the 500Hz filter?
Thanks.

New ldovr.com power modules (LT3045/LT3094/TPS7A4700/TPS7A3301)

Dear DIYers

Recently we have released a new revision of our regulators, please take a look

1. New Revision of Dual LT3045 PCB, 0-15V, 1A.
Now it is a bit smaller(24mm x 40mm), Heatsink friendly and can be paralleled for lower noise and higher current output.

3045-1AG-1200c.jpg3045G_heatsink.jpgparalleling_multipleLT3045-1200.jpg

2. Single LT3045 regulator board with fixed output 0-15V. 0.5A - same footprint (24mm x 40mm)

3045-0A5-1200c.jpg
3. Single LT3045 regulator board with configurable output 0-15V. 0.5A - 24mm x 40mm, the output voltage can be configured by DIP switch

3045-0A5M-1200c.jpg


for more details please visit www.ldovr.com

Best regards
and
Happy New Year

Hello from Slovakia

Hello everyone,

I am a technical university student studying software engineering. I do not have any proper education in physics or electronics, except for few courses, but I am more than willing to learn and take notes. Last year I have picked up electronics as a hobby, mostly digital circuits, but my interest in analog circuits is growing and is currently what I drain majority of my free time into. I am a proponent of open source and open hardware so I am looking forward to sharing my finalized projects with you on this site. Thank you for your time and I hope that I will fit into this community.

Greetings from Slovakia, enjoy your summer.
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