Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Just confirming that I'm about to solder in the correct parts to the correct places:
My kit came with 4 pieces of LM336 Z25. The schematic shows U101, U102, U201, and U202 are all LM336 Z25.
However, the parts list txt file shows LM385 for U101, U201 and shows LM336 for U102, U202.
Am I good to go with soldering in 4 pieces of LM336 for U1-U4?
My kit came with 4 pieces of LM336 Z25. The schematic shows U101, U102, U201, and U202 are all LM336 Z25.
However, the parts list txt file shows LM385 for U101, U201 and shows LM336 for U102, U202.
Am I good to go with soldering in 4 pieces of LM336 for U1-U4?
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
first set pots in CCS portion of JFet buffers to max, confirm with ohmmeter across parallel 39R resistors
then power up, set rails to 12Vdc +/-
then buffer Iq to 20mV across 1R
then output DC offset with pots in signal part of JFet buffers
then you're good with trimpots
edit: NTCs you put there (NTC 101/201) - are they labeled as surge limiters. or you're having plain low current ones?
proper ones for position are of ~6mm Dia, really declared as surge limiting devices
besides - heatsinks orientation is your choice, nothing wrong with them tucked inside
then power up, set rails to 12Vdc +/-
then buffer Iq to 20mV across 1R
then output DC offset with pots in signal part of JFet buffers
then you're good with trimpots
edit: NTCs you put there (NTC 101/201) - are they labeled as surge limiters. or you're having plain low current ones?
proper ones for position are of ~6mm Dia, really declared as surge limiting devices
besides - heatsinks orientation is your choice, nothing wrong with them tucked inside
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Thanks for the trim pot protocol. For the sinks, I rotated them just to add some space between them and the adjacent caps. Without rotating, they were practically resting on the caps.
The NTC devices that I used are 22R 1/2w devices. I figured they were just to provide some isolation between grounds to prevent ground loops.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...VrDDudlaSiw==&countryCode=US¤cyCode=USD
Did you intend something more like a CL-60? If these are the wrong ones, I can replace them.
The NTC devices that I used are 22R 1/2w devices. I figured they were just to provide some isolation between grounds to prevent ground loops.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...VrDDudlaSiw==&countryCode=US¤cyCode=USD
Did you intend something more like a CL-60? If these are the wrong ones, I can replace them.
in general, when speaking of current surge limiters (power NTCs), all you wanna know is said with their resistance and their Diameter - when you compare several, looking at current data and physical dimension ...... that's it
what you need there is- again - approx 6mm Dia, anything between 10 and 20R, and yeah - GND lifters, they are
but still, even if any catastrophe of leaking primary to secondary side is highly improbable, if you have it there, you must ensure that declared current capability of part itself is greater than mains fuse current capability
so, as you mounted small ones, which are having role of small sense or regulating variable resistors - you need to change them to proper, current surge limiting type
CL60 is too big - you can squeeze it somehow in space but no way to put them in pads - their holes are simply too small for fat CL60 pins
edit: "6mm Dia" is more like 8mm Dia
see here, few examples:
https://eu.mouser.com/c/circuit-pro...s/?diameter=8 mm&resistance=10 Ohms&instock=y
what you need there is- again - approx 6mm Dia, anything between 10 and 20R, and yeah - GND lifters, they are
but still, even if any catastrophe of leaking primary to secondary side is highly improbable, if you have it there, you must ensure that declared current capability of part itself is greater than mains fuse current capability
so, as you mounted small ones, which are having role of small sense or regulating variable resistors - you need to change them to proper, current surge limiting type
CL60 is too big - you can squeeze it somehow in space but no way to put them in pads - their holes are simply too small for fat CL60 pins
edit: "6mm Dia" is more like 8mm Dia
see here, few examples:
https://eu.mouser.com/c/circuit-pro...s/?diameter=8 mm&resistance=10 Ohms&instock=y
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Thanks for the link. I'll look in my parts box and see if I have anything larger. If not, I'll order some new ones and replace those tiny ones.
I presume a 400mm deep chassis is better to put some distance between traffos and the board? Those little 10VA donuts are pretty cute, never used anything so small before. Each one measures about 2.25" wide by 1" tall. Don't know if it will be better to lay them side by size, or stack them with a brass screw through the middle.
I presume a 400mm deep chassis is better to put some distance between traffos and the board? Those little 10VA donuts are pretty cute, never used anything so small before. Each one measures about 2.25" wide by 1" tall. Don't know if it will be better to lay them side by size, or stack them with a brass screw through the middle.
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Voltage tests on each channel went well. Got rails dialed in easily - they are nice and stable with no "lag time" between adjusting and making readings. jFet bias was also nice and easy to set at 20mV and seems just as stable as rail voltage. Dial it in, hit the target, and it's done. Then I got offset adjusted down to +or- 0.05mV. Adjusting offset seems very sensitive and seems to want to move around just a little. Overall targets achieved. Haven't powered up the relay section yet.
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Pass Labs
- Iron Pumpkin(s) and other smaller vegetable animals, Tips 'n' Tricks thread