Gangstel:
Perhaps Mr. Johnson’s VRDN instead (https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ckts-11v-to-20v-1-5a-with-de-noiser.355883/)?
Regards.
Perhaps Mr. Johnson’s VRDN instead (https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ckts-11v-to-20v-1-5a-with-de-noiser.355883/)?
Regards.
Unfortunately the parentheses and the question mark accidentally got included as part of the Forum link in #2,223 , but that turned it into an illegal URL which doesn't work. Here is a (working link) to the VRDN dual voltage regulator project.
Sorry to resurrect old thread. I'm planning to build a F6 with the diyAudio Power Supply v3. For the CL-60, and the 3300 pF Safety Capacitor, is there a specific insulator that is suggested for the leads?Where was the CL60 with the yellow heat shrink connected?
^ A piece of wire insulation or shrink tubing works wonderfully, IMO.
Or... a completely unsolicited suggestion... to a question you never asked... Is there something else to use other than a terminal block and the parts?
Yes, yes, there is.
Get some of these... They're awesome.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/144585...55907&click_sum=7012adf1&ref=shop_home_recs_2
Or... a completely unsolicited suggestion... to a question you never asked... Is there something else to use other than a terminal block and the parts?
Yes, yes, there is.
Get some of these... They're awesome.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/144585...55907&click_sum=7012adf1&ref=shop_home_recs_2
Here is what I usually do. The thermistors can get warm, so you want insulation that won't melt. I use insulation stripped from romex or silicone.Sorry to resurrect old thread. I'm planning to build a F6 with the diyAudio Power Supply v3. For the CL-60, and the 3300 pF Safety Capacitor, is there a specific insulator that is suggested for the leads?
I had a working Pass DIY F4 until I recently pulled a boneheaded move and reattached leads to my PS from one of the bridge rectifiers to the PS PCB backasswards--I forgot that the connections were not mirrored. One channel was connected correctly, the other, not so much. Had a brief pop/spark and all is not well. After reconnecting the wires, I now measure about 10 volts on both channels (18V transformer), no amplifier boards connected. Any idea if I damaged the rectifiers or the power transformer or something else? I see 0.6V forward voltage on the rectifiers, measured out of circuit.
I find it odd that damaging one channel would cause both channels to put out less than half the expected voltage. I'm tempted to just buy another PCB and other components, but I'll wait and see if I can do something less foolish.
I find it odd that damaging one channel would cause both channels to put out less than half the expected voltage. I'm tempted to just buy another PCB and other components, but I'll wait and see if I can do something less foolish.
Question about the power supply. I bought a mains transformer with a single primary winding. My question is about the thermistor, do I just need 1 now ? Do I even need the thermistor, I assume it still serves to limit the inrush current ? Does it matter which side of the primary circuit I put it on ?
do I just need 1 now
yes, you need it
Allow me to add the cake under the icing… (the bla):
The thermistor goes between the Power inlet and the transformer, usually it is placed after switch / fuses and primaries.
„yes you need it“ does not explicitly mean the thermistor, but any suitable method of inrush limiter, the ICL just being by far the simplest effective one, with the downside that there’s always something in the circuit…
The thermistor goes between the Power inlet and the transformer, usually it is placed after switch / fuses and primaries.
„yes you need it“ does not explicitly mean the thermistor, but any suitable method of inrush limiter, the ICL just being by far the simplest effective one, with the downside that there’s always something in the circuit…
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